BearsFan315

set the pedal clearance from the toe board per hte manual and service news 1/4" - 1/2" i use a small 3/8" thick block and tape it to the back of hte toe board and adjust hte pedals using that. installed the clutch return spring, adjusted the clutch pedal, also set the stop on the shaft for the pedals. put the brake linkage back on from the proportioner.

when i put in the accelerator pedal, installed the anti rattle spring and such on the carburetor as well as the accelerator pedal return spring, which connects to one of the manifold studs.

put in the starter pedal followed by the toe board. then installed the lower & upper pedal plates, secured them in place and then put on the new pedal seals i made a while back. fit nicely !

put in the pedals, clutch & brake, will connect them when i install the toeboard.

Put in the carburetor (this is a Carter RJH-08 150S) yeah i know it is not correct, but it the efficient and an upgrade over the 125S also connected the NEW fuel line from the fuel pump to the carburetor

connected up the vacuum line for the wiper switch

saturday afternoon spent a little time on the 1929 put the manifold together and installed it in the car. everything went in loose and then tightened one everything was seated correctly. want to try to ensure there NO leaks, also reason why i had machine shop machine all faces !!

installed generator & bracket, lined up the pulleys and dropped on the belt then set up the tensioner

installed the wire clips and ran the headlight wire across the front before the radiator goes in. the other wire is the signal wire !

now to the other side, plugs will go in later, leaving them out for ease of cranking engine by hand !! went ahead and set the valves cold, and made sure the wicks were installed and set

installed the spark plug wires and the wire bracket

Swapped out the coil want to make sure all ignition items are NEW.

few more items and this side will be complete spark plug wire holder spark plug & coil wires new coil install

next up begins the fun adventure. Distributor !! which was rebuilt by Skip with new point set & condensor. used my compression gauge to ensure i had cylinder 1 at Top Dead Center (TDC) this way i can set in the distributor and ensure it is on 1. used my tool and lined up the oil pump so that the distributor can seat fully. dropped in the thrust washer, and after a little tinkering and adjusting it dropped right in. installed the spark cable bracket to the block, put in the distributor adjustment screw for the spark cable, this limits the range/motion of the distributor when using the spark cable. adjusted and set the point gap to .018", should be rough timed for now secured the distributor in place next up i put the spark cable in place and made sure it worked and moved freely, also put in a few drops of oil in the line to keep it freely moving. now hte electrolock, luckily i have a colored cheat sheet that have been using, and done this a few times, so was not that difficult. always double check the order and that everything is in its place, especially the isolators for the points/contact. then secure it in place. dropped in a new rotor button and distributor cap.

next up was the starter, get it in, lined up and then power from the battery and then the wire to the dash pretty simple install, the Rubber boot was added after several discussions and an incident where the electrolock cable brushed by the starter post and threw sparks everywhere !! this isolated and protects the starter post which is positive (Direct to the Battery) from the electrolock (which is ground)

Installed the passenger side splash pan last night. always a fun task getting it in there just right and all the holes lined up. figured get that in before anything else so that i have more room to work around to get it situated Drivers side will go in later, doing one side at a time

was a pretty successful day, next should be doing all the bolt on items, should start moving a little faster now...

connected the oil pressure gauge line to the oil distribution block this was probably the easiest thing i did today !!

next up was the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carburetor did a rough install of the exhaust manifold with the carburetor attached to know exactly where the line had to go. used the old copper line as a guide to bend the new steel line.

once that was finished, went back and secured it in place with the clips down the passenger side. the main fuel line to fuel pump is complete & secure.

spent the day finishing up the fuel line had to do the 2 bends from the line to the fuel pump, used my old copper line to make the bends and lay out a guide for bending the steel !!

next up was the fuel pump... figured get this in, then i can finish the line from the fuel tank to the pump. this way there is nothing in the way. i marked off where the starter sits so that i can go around it.

put on the oil line clip on the drivers side, holds the oil pressure line from the oil distribution valve to the oil pressure gauge in the dash. this is a repro i made a few years go from an original one. works great

Took some time and made sure everything was lined up, then secured the driveline to the frame, as well as the u-joint housing to the transmission. also bolted up the brake cross shafts to the transmission as well.