rjengelhart

Lots of great responses...some of them should do the trick. Believe one of the last post was the condenser. I had a bad one a few years back, and I'm having a problem w the condenser on my MG...notoriously a problem w after market stuff. Easy to chek the coil when hot, condensor nedds a multimeter. Good luck. Btw, beautiful job on the fuel delivery and manifold systems.

Hi. I have the same issue w my '41 Super. Spring is broken/now lost. Any luck finding any? vr Bob

Hi. Anybody know the proper color for a '41 dash? Previous owner hand painted the dash brown, so would like to repaint. Thanks.

Hi everybody. Looking for a little spark plug advice. Will be replacing my spark plugs soon, and wonder if anybody uses anything besides the AC 46 per the owners' manual. Thanks. Bob Engelhart '41 Super Coupe

Hi. Don't have clatter, but valves are very quiet, and on downhill, lots of light back firing. I'm wondering if my valves may be too tight. Thanks. Bob

Hi everybody. need some simple advice fo my '41 Super, dual carbs. Car running well, compression ~95lbs, dwell at ~31*, valves quiet. Shop manual..timing at 2*BTDC...haven't done that yet, but have adjusted by ear/tach. Wondering what impact octane rating makes. Owners' manual recommends 70 octane. As I eae off the accelerator ...on a hill or otherwise...there's a great deal of popping/light backfiring at the exhaust. I've had many opinions from buds, thoug not Buick guys...timing too far advanced, timing retarded, too rich mixture, bad valves, points not adjusted...you get the idea. Any insight or suggestions? Thanks in advance, maybe see you in Portland. vr Bo '41 Super Coupe

Hi. Have a '41 Super Coupe. Had electrical gremlins w mine for a long time. new battery, new regulator, had generator & starter checked, cleaned, rebushed. Rewired individual wires for starting and charging system as well as coil...used mostly 8g & 10g wire. Seems to have taken care of the gremlins; have had trouble free starting/driving for six months/800m. Planning to drive to Portland from NorCal in July. Good luck. vr Bob

To everybody who offered advice and encouragement for my electrical gremlins...thank you. It turns out that I accidentally parted a wire from its connector at the solenoid while I was loosening the distributor hold down bolts; didn't know it since it was protected w heat shrink tubing. With the help of a friend and lots of short bridging wires, we were able to troubleshoot and isolate the problem. A new connector, some heat shrink tubing, and my '41 is back on the road. Learned a great deal about the car...how challenging to work under the dash, etc.. Again, thanks to all. Maybe see some of you at the Nationals in Portland. vr Bob '41 Super Sport Coupe

To everybody who offered advice and encouragement for my electrical gremlins...thank you. It turns out that I accidentally parted a wire from its connector at the solenoid while I was loosening the distributor hold down bolts; didn't know it since it was protected w heat shrink tubing. With the help of a friend and lots of short bridging wires, we were able to troubleshoot and isolate the problem. A new connector, some heat shrink tubing, and my '41 is back on the road. Again, thanks to all. Maybe see some of you at the Nationals in Portland. vr Bob '41 Super Sport Coupe

To all who have responded with helpful hints, Thank you. I'll be off the grid for a week...to be continued then. I sure hope to figure this out and get my Buick on the road again. For those heading the Nationals in Portland...maybe we'll meet there. I'll be back on lin in about 10 days. vr Bob '41 Buick Super Sport Coupe

Dave, Just finished doing a whole lot of checking w my multi-meter. Had ~6V Batt neg to pos; same w ground to solenoid. had continuity to horn relay center; continuity but no voltage. Might that mean the horn relay is bad? Pulled the coil apart (cable guard) checked it. Had continuity from the back to distributor ground. Checked many others...continuity but no voltage. Pulled the ignition key switch apart; didn't see any evidence of arcing; added some graphite powder. I need to do some more multi-meter work, record the results and go from there. When I sit and ponder this issue, it should be fairly simple. Gen & starter checked out OK (two months ago), new voltage regulator (two months ago) & new horn relay (6 months ago). I've replaced all the starting circuit wires w good 8 & 10 g wires, new connectors, heat shrink tubing. I'm wondering if the horn relay was bad (or went bad???) or if the regulator isn't correct for the car. Thanks for your advice...and I'll appreciate any more. vr Bob

Dave, Thanks for the follow up. Nuthin's too basic for me. Hadn't checked the turn signals, but did after your note. Dead. I follow the logic w the multi-meter...just didn't know that it should be checked. Thanks, I'll check the horn relay in the AM. Also heard from Grant Magrath in NZ, suggesting that the ammeter may be fried. That's tough to check under the dash, but I'll check the schematice to see where else I can check it...somewhere under the hood. Thanks all. More to follow I'm sure. vr Bob '41 Super Sport Coupe

Hi and thanks for the response. Yep, checked all the connections...they're tight. Had recently replaced all the wires for the starting system, new connectors, cleaned fitting attachments. had the starter and generator checked, cleaned, etc. Installed a new horn relay and voltage regulator. I'm wondering if there's a 'hidden' fuse or some other connection not on the schematics. Also wondering if the new voltage regulator is the right on for the car or improperly calibrated. I'll continue searching and pondering; maybe somebody else has some insight. I'll let you know how it turns out. vr Bob '41 Super Sport Coupe

Need help. Drove the Buick the other day...no problems. Pulled into garage, thought I'd use my Tach/Dwell meter to check dwell, RPMs, various other simple non-invasive tests per the meter's owners' manual. Tried to move the car...no electricity. Gauges didn't register, no horn, no lights. Charged the battery...it was OK. Checked the schematics, found two fuses that seem to part of the starting system...both OK. Interestingly, jumping the starter solenoid w key on...car started. I'm stuck and need advice/help. Thanks. vr Bob '41 super Sport Coupe

Hi Danny, Too high pressure could blow your seals. Maybe test your gauge?

Hi. No obsession, simply an effort to bring the pressure to spec...as noted in the owners' manual...45lbs.

Mike, Thanks so much for the reply. Hope you're keeping the car dry w the CO floods we're hearing about. Looks like you may have had some of the same challenges w oil pressure as I have had. Had ~5lbs; dropped the pan, did a clean out (a great deal of sludge in pan and pick up in the newly purchased car at the time.) Hardly any improvement and hadn't thought of the valve/spring until querying the forum. Dropped the pan again, stretched the spring (a much smaller spring than this new one,) but did get ~30lbs pressure. Still wanted to improve to ~45 lbs (specs) so planned a stronger spring, then a friend linked me w Autopartsway.com and they had a spring...but much larger than I thought. I'll plan to do the work some time soon, and let you know the results. Btw, I'm using Valvoline VR 1 20/50 racing oil for the ZDDP. Thanks again. vr Bob

Hi. '41 Coupe 56S. vr Bob

Hi. '41 56S. vr Bob

Hi everybody. Anybody have the dimensions for the oil pressure relief valve spring? Just bought on, measures ~3 7/16" /* 1/2". Seems awfully long. Appreciate any insight. Thanks. vr Bob E

Earl, Hi and thanks for the note. My Super Coupe has~17,000 miles (first time around as far as I know) and sounds OK...no knocks or other ominous sounds. I'm using Valvoline VR 1 20/50 oil...high zinc content as well as lower viscosity. I dropped the pan and cleaned the pickup screen as well as sludge on the bottom of the pan. Very disappointed...very little improvement in the pressure. Got some advice from the forum...helped my confidence...and ordered an oil pump rebuild kit. Dropped the pan again, 'rebuilt' the pump and noticed that this probably had been done before...the gasket on the bottom of the pump was missing. Also stretched the bypass spring. These actions resulted in ~ 30 lbs pressure...far better than the 5 I had. I plan to drop the pan one more time and replace the spring rather than stretch the old tired one. Good luck and lemme know your progress. Thanks. vr Bob San Leandro, CA

Hi, Bob E here again. I've ordered an oil pump rebuild kit and plan to do that, but was wondering about the oil pressure relief valve. have had some replies suggedting that i check that as the next step. Where is it? Btw, this is a '41 Super, 248ci. Thanks.

Danny, Hi and thanks for the advice. Believe somebody has moved this thread to the proper discussion forum. Where's the spring? I didn't take any photos when I had the pan off...shame on me. Bolts were tight, cleaned the pan & disassembled the pump pickup screen. Pressure seems to have improved a bit...to about 15lbs at idle, remains about there when driving. I'm reluctant to drive it much...don't want to blow the engine. My next step will be to rebuild the pump...hopefully it's a simple unbolt, replace gear and gaskets, rebolt and success. Again, thanks...I appreciate the advice. vr Bob E

Ben, Thanks for the advice. Concerning the plastigauge, I'm a little reluctant to tackle that (skill limitations), so looking for a mechanic reference from my local club. I've been told the bearings can be replaced form the bottom of the engine wo tearing the entire engine apart. What do you think? Thanks again.