mdmarkin

Lee, That sounds about what I am experiencing. I, too, have an A for comparison. Thank you.

Thank you, Tom. I found the binding was on the the outside of the transmission and it returns easily now. When I depress the pedal I do not have much resistance, unlike more modern cars being quite stiff when the clutch pedal is depressed. Is this to be expected from this car? Also, with the car not running, I do find that I can freely shift the gears from one to another and the car will not roll in any of them. I have not started the car yet to put it in gear as I am cautious about it locking in gear while running and driving through the wall. Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks

I wonder if anyone might have run into an issue with the return of their clutch pedal with a 40 LC. I have been restoring this car for long time and the old retracting spring was discarded early in the project. I did acquire a new retracting spring and after an afternoon tussle I managed to get it installed. When I depress the clutch pedal I can feel good resistance. However, when pushed nearly to the floor, the pedal stays there. I have checked for anything that would might interfere with it and find nothing. The retracting spring is snug but not pressure stressed enough to return. Any thoughts on how to cure this issue? Thanks

Good idea, although I did that, too. Thanks

Hadn't thought about doing that. Thanks.

I have been restoring my 1940 Continental and fired the engine for the first time in ages. Good to hear it run. However, when the engine is at idle there is a loud ticking coming from the fan. We inspected it closely. It is tightly mounted and clearance is great. The ticking subsides to quiet after the engine is accelerated. I took the fan off the engine and restarted the engine. No ticking at all. It appears to be a fan issue even though it appears to be a good piece. Any thoughts on this before I acquire another fan? Thanks for your help.

Great video, Chris. Thank you for sharing it.

That is what I have resorted to doing. It has certainly been a challenge but I will get get there...eventually. Thanks

I have a '40 and after pulling those spark plug wires, I am not sure I want to do that again!

I have the spark plug wires in through the tube where they should be. That in itself was a chore. What I am referring to is the harness wires that run to the generator, coil, and the temperature gauge. That's were I am seem to be out of room.

I have my spark plug wires run through the tubes and properly connected to the distributor caps. Now I have to get that thick set of engine wires through the left spark plug tube and out the proper holes and its tight in there. Any suggestions on this feat would be most appreciated. Thanks

Thanks for all of the advice on this. The radiator is in, fan belt, on, fan re-installed and hoses secured!

Thanks for the reply. I located the bolts that you referred to. Actually, I had messed with them during the process of trying to figure this out, but thought that they were related to the damper and not the fan. I have removed the 3 bolts and then roughly pulled the fan off. Once the bolts were off, it only took me 3 minutes to remove the fan blades. Thank you. Next up is the install. I'll keep you posted.

I wonder if I can get a bit of advice. I have a '40 LC and I have recently re-installed the v-12 engine. Now I am trying to fit the radiator in place and I find that I do not have enough clearance when bringing it in over the top of the engine. The fan blades are in the way. I am not sure if I remove the fan blades, that there will be enough room in there to re-install them after the radiator is installed. To add to my bewilderment, I re-installed the fan blades after repainting them about 6 years ago while the engine was on a stand and I can not remember how I did it....that must have something to do with my hair getting whiter. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

I am looking for a left grille for my 1940 Lincoln Zephyr Continental restoration. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Mike Markin carsmdm@gmail.com 715-829-7733

For sale is a Stromberg EX-32 downdraft 1-barrel carburetor. 1 5/16 venturi, P17103 on body, 2 15/16 center to center on the mounting. Carb was used on a wide variety of applications as a factory and replacement unit. Carb has been refreshed and in a box for several years. Asking $475.

For sale: 1934 -1935 Hupmobile Model J Running Boards – #1 Show quality boards. Authentic running board restoration, vulcanized rubber and stainless steel trim, built to original specs. For more details and photos contact Mike Markin 715-829-7733 email: carsmdm@gmail.com Asking: $4,000.

Leif - thanks I'll check them out. Mark - that sounds great - how do I best reach you? Larry - I picked up nearly complete in Memphis about 3 years ago and am finally finishing it. Your car look great. Mike

I am putting together a puzzle - the final touches on a 23 model 54 (6 cylinder). I am in need of a coil for the car and bulbs for: head lights, side lights, and cowl light. Can some one tell me where I might find a repalcement coil and the proper bulbs? Thanks Mike Markin