Mark Wetherbee

I believe the round one was part of a radio speaker, I’ve also seen television lamps in the ship form as well as the door stops above which I have two that hold my back doors open on nice days... They were decorative house items with no dealership connections whatsoever.

I had the same issue with one rear wheel of my Pierce, after the other three wheels were re-lined and installed I finally set up two propane torches on blocks pointing at the hub and within 5 minutes it came loose louder than an 8 gauge shell... even with the nut holding it from flying it was violent for lack of a better description! I did have more hub showing but it is still worth trying. I did keep a close eye on the torches and had an extinguisher at hand just in case.... edit: Before anyone asks, I flipped the castle nut upside down because I have actually seen them get distorted along with the shaft threads before, this gives more support to stop any distortion and keeps the hub from poking through the wall when she lets loose.

When I first saw this I figured it was the same one that’s been kicking around eBay for a year plus... I now see that they are two different cars with very similar paint combinations (neither of which I find appealing, but that’s just me). At least this one is priced more reasonably than the other!

Buick did not have the oval radiator cap. That is why I think Overland. Here’s a link to a picture of an 11, the radiator is flat-top but the hood isn’t louvred...

It looks like a cut-down 1913 Overland to me, so that picture might be a bit later than 13. Looks like a fun ride!

Great looking car and the family connection is even better! I have received a few more requests for the yolks, my apologies but I have only a few more and will likely need them for my own car whenever I get around to the wipers... it seems like they are extremely fragile if anyone is interested in reproduction of these!

Thank you for the pictures and information, at some time I’ll have to see which style I have in my car but I have multiples of everything else in my picture except those phenolic yokes. I would assume everything else was far more durable but the Trico dealers were meant to replace everything as a part of service whether it was needed or not.

I still have a couple for myself and glad I could help. So, what is the car that you are doing?

The toolbox in the door was common on mid 20’s Studebaker, but the door doesn’t look like the cars I am familiar with. Looks like a 23 light 6 Studebaker matches these, I just google searched images...

By “blown” was he thinking supercharger? It would be my guess anyhow...

Here’s a picture of the type of small parts that I have, the yoke I found is 0.73 wide and 0.55 inside but if yours is broken this might be the right one. I don’t have as many of the phenolic parts as the metal ones which definitely speaks to the fragility of them... If you PM your address I’ll send you one and hopefully it is the same...

Ahh, got it now... if you have a picture of the one you need please post it here with something to scale it to, and I will dig out the bits I have and see if I have any.

Being sold with, or through a tractor company might explain it not having any of the numerous adapters?? Not sure if it would still have contained the full set. It’s an interesting accessory to display with something, but I also think Roy’s assessment of value is not too far off. If it were a very useful accessory, in better condition, or had all the adaptors mentioned there might be more value. I find that accessory items that add bling or functionality are what sell and the rest gets carted from flea to shining flea...

Way down on the bottom left is a part number which may contain a date code, but late 30’s seems to be a good estimate. I see that Dusty mentioned the same thing above... I should have read before posting!

Keep your eye on eBay, I’ve seen several complete ones going for $150 or less and others asking twice that but not selling. Mine came without the instructions but another person was kind enough to get me a picture of the section I needed... although if you’re mechanically inclined those instructions are not really needed to figure it out.

Here’s a picture of the page from my tool catalog, there’s also a version made by Allen...

It was a valve tool that someone modified into a duck-bill clamp. It still has the u for the spring retainer but should not have anything but two fingers on the other side. Those fingers usually have a screw so that they can be adjusted to clamp snug to the lifter.

One step back today... well yesterday really today I just drive. My radiator is in need of a bath and I found a repair shop a few hours away that specializes in car, truck, and tractor radiator service in a predominantly tobacco farming area... on top of that they have been there since 1927 and the owner knew what a honeycomb radiator was! Once you start looking for a radiator shop you find out quickly that it’s a dying breed, and sadly one that Matt Hinson mentioned recently is no longer able to do the work because his radiator guy was killed in a motorcycle accident. All the other shops I called it was like talking to the teenager at AutoZone...

Getting the distributor set up on a machine is best as it will also make sure that the mechanical advance is working properly, but it sounds like you have a distributor to begin with. This is the tool I use to set my points to fire on the 45 degrees increments. It was a factory suggested shop tool for my Pierce and you can see the exact break in continuity with each light bulb going off. I found this one on eBay for just about $100 and have seen several others since. The manual page above gives you how to time the distributor to the engine as well as anything I can find, but this is for timing of the two sets of points to each other...

Where is your magnet?? Really, it saves you so much gas... People ignore science whenever it doesn’t suit their personal opinions. The one I heard about as a kid was adding borax...

Body has similarities to Nash and Chrysler products, but the hubcap and roof visor is throwing me off. I don’t think Marmon because of the smallish cowl lights...

Having less stuff in each picture would help immensely... if you spread it out and ask about a few things in different threads there’s a much better chance that someone can help.

And I believe that you are correct that the first car is a 1916 Premier...

Funny, but that is the only picture I took under the hood recently and it was for someone on FB who was being referred to John for a filter. Ross pistons with modern rings, Cislak’s valves and guides, new rod bearings and the mains were at .002 so they stayed. I didn’t get into the clutch or transmission, that’s a future project along with the needle bearings for the springs and rear end. At some point soon I hope to answer your oil pressure question! Here’s one from a few weeks ago

Well, it’s called “unrestored grunge” If only the machine shop could have magnafluxed without cleaning the head, you might not have thought I’d been inside...