Franklinguy

I have a 10-B. I think it is the same for all the Series 10's. There is a filler plug on the top of the transmission and an oil level plug on the side. The manual says to add oil until the level is up to the bottom of the level plug hole. It takes less than a quart. I have been using 85/140. It is a good idea to drain the oil and put in new every 2 or 3 years.

I found this on a web site.

I need a clutch throwout bearing for my Franklin10-B. The clutch was made by Borg and Beck. According to the Franklin parts book, this is Franklin drawing no. 26707. The throwout bearing that was in the clutch has an outside diameter smaller than the specified part and does not fully engage with the fork. A used part in good condition would be fine. A modern replacement would also be fine if it has the proper dimensions according to the parts drawing.

I think Steve is correct. If it is the wire to the carburetor primer it should have black insulation and the conductor should be 8 AWG (American Wire Gauge), the conductor will be about 3.7 mm diameter. The wire must be large to carry the large current required by the primer. The primer has a 100 ampere fuse. Unless you are operating the car in extreme cold, the primer is not needed and might cause a fire. The primer is connected to the carburetor float chamber and fills with gasoline. There is a heating element inside the primer that boils the gasoline so that gasoline vapor goes in the manifold. There is a gasket between the carburetor and the primer. I had a special gasket made without the hole in the center so that no gasoline goes into the primer. If you look at the dash, there are four switches. The upper left switch is marked primer and is intended to apply electrical, power to the primer. Frank Pennypacker

I have owned a 1923 Series 10-B for about 2 years; it is a wonderful car to drive. Steve's advice to buy a Series 10 Instruction Book is excellent advice. I would add that you should also buy a Series 10 Parts Catalog, also available from LLoyd Davis. I bought both and have used both of them regularly. I highly recommend joining the H. H. Franklin Club, if you have not done so. The Franklin Club website (http://www.franklincar.org) has an archive of technical questions and answers that has been very helpful. There is also an archive of original Franklin parts drawings on the website. The parts catalog will give you the part numbers and you can get pdf files of the drawings on the web site. Questions about Franklins are very welcome. Frank Pennypacker

Scott, Thanks for the information about the M&E clutch being grabby. Paul Fitz pointed out that to convert to an M&E clutch, everything but the flywheel would have to be replaced and it would be hard to get all the parts. I have decided not to go with the M&E clutch. Converting to the flexible disc B&B requires a flywheel modification and a different crankshaft rear oil retainer. I have decided to get Tom Rasmussen to install a new center to fix the worn splines on my old disc. I would also get Paul Fitz to install a new lining. That way I will be able to just put everything back together with the like new disc. I believe it will work just fine. I have thought about the fact that Franklin switched from the rigid disc to a flexible disc and retrofitted a lot of cars. The only thing I can say is that I drove that car for about a year and a half and I did not notice any excessive noise or vibration and none that I could attribute to the solid disc clutch. Frank

Tom, thanks for the clarification. One option is to send Tom my clutch disc to get a new splined center and then send it to Paul Fitz for a new friction lining. It should be as good as new. I think another option is to get an entire Merchant and Evans clutch. My understanding from the Franklin Series 10 parts book is that the M&E clutch works with the same flywheel as the rigid disc Borg and Beck clutch (the flywheel on my car). It also seems from the parts book that Franklin switched to M&E clutches in the late Series 10 cars. Frank

Scott, your advice is appreciated. Here is what I know: The serial number of the car (137053-1) puts it in 1923 10-B. The engine number (E85851) is in the right range for 1923. The disc that was in the car is rigid type. I cannot be sure that the clutch was not changed at some time in the past. The Franklin parts book lists 2 flywheels (see page 716- 26051 is for B&B rigid disc and M&E clutches, 30502 is for the B&B flexible disc clutch. There is a note with 30502, "Flywheel to crankshaft cap screw holes countersunk." The flywheel in my car does not have countersunk holes. On page 717 of the parts book, there is a list of parts needed to convert from the rigid disc to the flexible disc. The list includes the clutch disc, flywheel to crank cap screws, nuts, and crankshaft rear oil retainer. It also says the holes in the flywheel must be countersunk using a special tool. The conversion seems like a big job! Maybe I should be hunting for a M&E complete clutch. The transmission did not make any unusual noise until recently when it became very noisy, due to a bad bearing. Shifting was erratic, but the clutch brake was in pretty bad shape. Tom Rasmussen is currently rebuilding the transmission.

I need a clutch disc for my 10-B Franklin. I need the earlier Borg and Beck disc with the rigid center. The Franklin parts book indicates that the later disc with the flexible center takes a different flywheel. Frank Pennypacker

If you go to the Franklin Club site, go to Tech and then Questions and Answers, there is a description of how to disassemble and reassemble Stabilators dated 6/25/05, instructions by Paul Fitz. Also look at http://www.franklincar.org/FAQ/watson5.htm for articles on Stabilators. The real problem is if you need replacement webbing; I don't know where to get it.

Is there anything news about Stabilator Webbing? Nothing has been posted for several months.

About the oil level: As a previous reply indicated, there is a level indicator next to the oil filler. I have a 1923 Franklin and the level indicator does not work. I suggest that you drain the oil and check that the indicator points to empty. Then add 5 qts (as per Franklin manual for series 10) and verify that it indicates full. Somebody installed a dip stick on my car. I agree with the suggestion to buy a manual for your car from the Franklin club. Also, buy a parts catalog. I have found that they are very valuable to anyone who takes care of a Franklin. I also highly recommend membership in the Franklin club. By the way, if your Franklin was made in 1923, it is series 10-B. I also have a 1923 10-B Franklin and I would be happy to exchange information. Frank Pennypacker frank.pennypacker@gmx.us

Tom, I am another Franklin owner needing Stabilator webbing for my 10B. I suspect that there is a lot of demand for these straps. My car is 90 years old and it is not surprising that the straps are broken. This year at the Trek, I plan to ask around to find out how many other Franklin owners have broken Stabilator straps. Surprisingly, the car rides pretty well with all four Stabilator straps broken, but I want to make it right by fixing the Stabilators.