GregTC

Members
  • Content Count

    84
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

13 Good

About GregTC

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 06/03/1959

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Tomah WI

Recent Profile Visitors

341 profile views
  1. I watched the video and I didn't see anything in that looked like it would increase the tension of the fabric on the top. Now I have done a convertible top it was on my wife's 99 mustang, of course I did a lot of research on the subject which included different brand vehicles, and the fabric pretty much fasten to the frame for the top the same way for all the vehicles that I looked researched. Now I don't know what the condition your top is so its up to you if you want to do this. Now the fabric gets the tension basically from how far it is wrapped around the front header on the top. But here is what you can do, put the top up and lock the back of the top down like you normally would, now take the front of the top and put it so it's at about 90 degrees pointing up, now you need to remove the rubber seal the seal should just pull out as long as nobody decided to glue it in and then remove the rubber seal mount and any other screws or parts that look like they would interfere with the top been pulled forward. Now after you have all the things removed you will see that the top is stapled now before you take out the staples take a wax pencil or chalk and go over the front edge were the fabric wraps around the frame, now remove all the staples and then slowly pull the top loose from the header you will all so see that it is glued but it should come loose. Now with the front of the top pointing up at 90 degrees pull the top around the header about a half inch past the old chalk mark and use some alligator clamps to hold it in place now put the top down to the windshield and see how the tension is repeat this till you have the tension you think is good keeping in mind that when the front is locked down it will increase the tension a little more, once you have the tension you want take your wax pencil/chalk and run it across the front were the fabric wraps around the header. Now put the top back in the 90 degree position and remove the alligator clamps pull back the fabric and spray the header and the back side of the fabric with headliner glue following their instructions 3m makes a good product then pull the fabric back around the header to the chalk line you just made and smooth it out, once you have it set re-staple in place (if you don't have a air powered stapler you may want to buy or rent one it makes the job much easier) after you get it all stapled you can reinstall all the parts that you needed to remove once it is all back together lock the top down and leave it locked down for 2 weeks straight this will help re-stretch the top so it locks down nicely. Be very careful when you do this project and take your time to make sure when you pull the fabric you keep it straight as possible, if you think that the fabric might be to fragile don't do it you will be better off with a new top or deal with the sag. I hope this gives you some insight.
  2. I have always believed to use the plug types that the engine was designed with no matter what brand vehicle but that my opinion
  3. Yea it would be a great garage but right now it has to stay as a roller rink the fire doors are just big enough to get the cars in LOL
  4. Hi Reaper1 nope didn't roll the dash I have a 90 deg philips screwdriver it is kind of a slow proses too get the screws out and in, the amp is under the storage box were the factory cd player would be the amp is only 6.5x4x2 so it fit nice
  5. some day I will live were the weather is nice all the time but tonight sever weather here in Wisconsin so need to make room in the garage for the other cars but the toys are safe and sound
  6. No big sub the 4, 6.5 Pyle speakers are what they call mid subs they don't have the real big base like the 10 and 12 inch subs but do put out really nice base they do have cross overs to filter out the highs
  7. TC Stereo upgrade Jensen vx3012 head, sound storm s7eq 7-band graphic equalizer and a Jensen KAC_M3004 600 watt amp
  8. Up date what I found was the problem was the speed sensor even though the speedometer still worked it turned out the sensor wasn't putting out a strong enough signal once I replaced the sensor the odometer work great
  9. Nice I'm working on a up grade myself
  10. If you have a gage to check the fuel pressure start there I have to agree with Hemi the fault may be false been the ecm might not have been getting the right voltage sense the engine was running sporadic and check one more thing I don't know how old your battery is but I had a one go open on me while driving and the car did the same type of symptoms
  11. Help I have installed the new gears in my odometer WITH OUT ANY LUBE I do have 2 speedometer heads and I put new gears in both I tried to make sure that both were clean of any broke gear fragments and any other foreign objects by air blowing them out. Now to the trouble I'm have is they work only for a few miles one of them did work for 200 miles, I did disassemble and checked them out multiple time and still the same problem has any one else had these issues and any suggestion's Thanks GregTC
  12. How bad is the dent would it be more cost effective to have it fixed
  13. I ran across this photo in my phone, I bought this car 4 years ago ( 1989 2.2 sohc) last spring I had to replace the head gasket and been that coolant made it way in to the oil I decided to pull the oil pan to clean the pan and the lower end. if you look at the photo you can see the old oil residue in the pan and that was after soaking it for 24 hours in heated solvent, so keep that oil changed.
  14. Just got new gears for my odometer what type of grease is recommended ? Thanks
  15. ok not that far maybe once winter decides to be done we can meet in Madison some were that's about midway between us