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About fordy

  • Birthday 02/06/1961

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  1. I have one to spare but is it worth getting it all the way from Australia? Regards Steve
  2. Hi Steve The ring gear is a replaceable unit - heat it up with a torch to expand it and it almost falls off. Heat it up (not to much needed) to put on the new one - they turn up occasionally online or at swaps. What I did with mine was reverse the old one and it seems to work fine (I have a new one but no reason to change it yet - If I need to work on the clutch or gearbox then that will be the time). I believe the starter bendix is the same as Model A Ford but don't hold me to it. Cheers Steve Ford South Australia
  3. I believe we are looking at 1922 or earlier Series R - all depends on how tall and wide it is as it changed over the run. Post 22 cars had a notch at the base for the crank handle
  4. The English Fords had the throw away sealed type that you cant get any more. My solution was to cut one open and fit a modern spin on unit into it so it still maintains an original look , Oil filter modification has how I went about it. Cheers Steve
  5. Thanks I have sent them an email requesting that I get added to the list. Trying to do it via their website it wants to slug me a hundred bucks postage to Australia. Obviously first class and sipping champagne all the way. A slow boat will get it to me just the same!
  6. Put me down for one but do they have an email / mail order so I can do it from here in Australia? Duncan who does the Aust / NZ register may know of some more interested parties?
  7. I Dont know about common but Hupmobile switched from Jacox to Ross steering sometime late23 /early 24. Cheers Steve
  8. I can't verify the accuracy of this but I was once told that 32 Ford windshield frames are almost identical to the K model Hupp. It may be an avenue worth following up as they are available as repro items. Cheers Steve
  9. I tend to agree that powder coating is not a good option - particularly on a chassis. It looks all sweet and pretty but as Bj has indicated, break the skin and before you know it there is all sorts of rot eating things away. I had a Triumph chassis grit blasted and powder coated and about 2 years later had to pull the front clip for a crash repair, what I found was scarry. A small blister in the coating when chipped away revealed some major rust issues. Opinion was that a stone chip allowed moisture in and it went downhill from there. 2 pak all the way now! Cheers Steve
  10. Thanks Howard I took the broken parts to Henstock Engineering who specialises in replicating missing and proken parts. They did a fantastic job of making new ones of the correct grade material and proper hardness. Not cheap for a simple little job but when you factor in labour costs and how fiddly it would have been, plus the running about sourcing the material etc it was a fair price. One thing that came to light from the exercise is that the faces of the half nuts they attach to are not square on like you would assume but instead slightly tapered to alow the rollers to "kick start" when the steering is first turned off from straight ahead position. I would guess this reduces the stresses involved. Cheers Steve
  11. I had a local sheet metal shop form up a new one for my Hupp using the rusted out original as a guide, the filler neck and gas gauge were removed from the old one and soft soldered back on the new. We then used a polyurethane type gast tank sealant. Never given me troubles. Surely its the same with the Dodge unit - easier to replicate than repair?
  12. I have 2 x '23 and 1 x '24 series R tourers, 2 are restored and regularly used and one of the 1923's is a scrapheap challenge of trying to resurect junk left over that a sane person would have crushed. If your friend subscribes to the Hupmobile Register he would be familiar with the '24 as its restoration was documented in it over the last 4 or 5 years. I agree that the few types available "off the shelf" seldom suit the job at hand in regard to the tab sizing and how they suit the application. Laser cuting just isn't that expensive if you draw it all out yourself and you find the right guy. Sure its overkill having so many done but then they are always available if a buddy needs some too. I hand cut some a while back and they took ages. Sure I dont pay for my labour but if it costs me a couple of hundred bucks for a thousand to be lasered out and it frees my time up for more interesting jobs then I see it as worth it.
  13. Just drew some up for the Hupp 3/4ID & 1 1/4ID. Other sizes to add later. Lots of room left on a full 1200 x 2400 sheet of 1mm!, how many do I need!! Send me a PM with the dimensions you need, rough sketch even, size of internal tab (if any) and size & number of external tabs etc. I will add a dozen or so to the job to suit what you need. How soon do you need them? Cheers Steve
  14. I have the same issue working on my Hupmobiles. Lock Tab washers on everything! Just recently I have had some parts laser cut and was impressed with the detail so I am probably going to draw up the ones I need in Auto Cad and have a full sheet of tab washers cut. I am going to end up with a dozen lifetimes worth but at least I will have them.
  15. I am looking at getting some kick plates that go on the running boards laser cut out of stainless steel to put onto my latest scrapheap challenge restoration job. Anyone else after some as the more I have done the cheaper they are? Cheers Steve
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