vicpanza
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Posts posted by vicpanza
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Looking for a Trico vacuum motor for my 1937 truck. The original Trico number is either 368 or 369 (I need the drivers side and it's one of these numbers, not sure). The numbers are stamped on the back edge of the motor on the oval plate. Usually pop up when cleaned with some steel wool.
Attached are few pictures of what this one looks like. Flicken does not have these nor can he restore them any more. I am game for anything in any condition. Would be great if it included the mounting hardware as well.
I have some old motors that are correct for Power Wagon and other Dodge trucks (later models). Happy to trade or provide those if you need them.
Appreciate any help.
Thx
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Looking for a Trico vacuum motor for my 1937 truck. The original Trico number is either 368 or 369 (I need the drivers side and it's one of these numbers, not sure). The numbers are stamped on the back edge of the motor on the oval plate. Usually pop up when cleaned with some steel wool.
Attached are few pictures shared by Alan of what this one looks like. Flicken does not have these nor can he restore them any more. I am game for anything in any condition. Would be great if it included the mounting hardware as well.
I have some old motors that are correct for Power Wagon and other Dodge trucks (later models). Happy to trade or provide those if you need them.
Appreciate any help.
Thx
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Found one on eBay that looks to be a good replacement:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181700697048?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I have ordered and received this plate. I like it except for the fact that "DODGE TRUCKS" is centered 1/4" too far left. The photo on ebay shows it centered. I'm going to see if I can get a better one. Will keep you posted. John
OK. I was thinking or your original. If the extra hole is on in the number areas, maybe you could lay some silver solder into it, and we could have it screened. I have not dropped them off yet, and probably will not get to it for a few weeks.
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Like I said, I'm getting really good at taking this stuff apart
Well, got some help today and dropped the drive shaft and transmission. Wasn't the easiest thing I've dome lately. Was able to get the spring back on and installed the loops on the ends with the open end facing the direction of rotation, so that if the throwout bearing bracket sticks and rotates, it will pull along the length of the spring, and not slip it off the attachment points. Also bent the ends closed a bit. Drove it around in the driveway and all seems to be working OK now.
Put this one to rest, and make a note about the next time we assemble these parts!
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Vic, I will look at my plate to see if it is flat. If it is I will send it to you. Thanks. John
Any luck on getting this plate out. As soon as I receive it, will get them to the screener
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Vic, I will look at my plate to see if it is flat. If it is I will send it to you. Thanks. John
Thanks. I am planning on having them silk screened. I have another, so cost will be split up a bit. Please make sure it's the same design as I have pictured above.
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Just disassembled and restored the regulators for my '37 MC pickup truck. Believe they are different then what the coupe uses, but if if's of any help, here are a few pictures of the parts. The cast gears on my regulators were stripped and I was able to get some made in naval brass (hard). Dave at Country Traveler has my extra stock. Happy to walk you through this if your issues rests with the gears.
The gear mechanism is contained in a round housing that is easily removed by grinding off three areas where is was swedged on after being pressed through the plate. Once this was reassembled, we just tack welded the cup back into place. I also took my mechanisms and had them yellow zinc plated, because I am a bit out of my mind doing an extreme restoration:). A good coat of paint after blasting would do.
Good luck
Vic
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Like I said, I'm getting really good at taking this stuff apart
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Note the back of the bell housing has an access hole to get at the clutch bolts, but it's too high to get at the sleeve that holds the throw-out bearing. That's the issue.
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Thanks for all the feedback. This model uses a transmission (bell housing) that doesn't provide any access to the spring. Have been thinking about this, but when the dust settles, will probably have to drop the drive shaft and transmission. Hell, for a novice, I'm getting good at this!
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Vicpanza, so you are repainting your original plate? Not reproducing new ones? Cool idea.
After seeing the nicer one's available on eBay, I am considering using one of these (the one from Poland looks to be the best value). But, as I have the artwork done, I may have a high resolution water decal made and put it on my original plate once it's cleaned and polished. If it looks OK, may clear coat it and use. If it doesn't hold up, I can always replace it.
While the silk screening process would be a better option, unless I get a handful to do, it would be a bit pricy.
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Wanted to ask if anyone has had this problem, and may have any suggestions as to a fix. Just got my 1937 MC running as part of a frame off restoration. Was pulling it out of the garage to burn off the oil in the driveway, and seems that the new clutch grabbed for a few seconds. I heard a "clank" after which the clutch pedal was rather soft.
The pedal spring is OK. Took the lower cover off the clutch and can see that the return spring on the throwout bearing sleeve came off. It's dangling from the mounting bolt, and getting it back on the sleeve looks to be impossible without taking the drive shaft and transmission out. The sleeve also rotated, and once I turned it back into position, the fork prongs lined up where they are to engage it. But, when I ran it again, it rotated.
The spring is a NOS part, and as far as I know is correct for the truck (got it from Len Dawson). In any event, I am going to take the access plug out on the top of the bellhousing to see if I can get at it from this port, but not too optimistic that will work.
Just wanted to ask if anyone has had this experience and has any suggestions. Also, somewhat concerned that if it came off once, it may do so again. Any other source for this spring??
Thanks
Vic
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Found one on eBay that looks to be a good replacement:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181700697048?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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Thanks. You note that the "Serial NO" font is different then what was on my plate. Might it have been different for the KC series? Mine has a small "o" that is placed higher and has a line under it. Also, what he charge for this?
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I wanted to mention that I am restoring the serial number plate for my 1937 Dodge MC. This plate is exactly 2" x 4" and is a reverse image. I have had the artwork made and have attached.
I found a screen printer who will make the screens and manage setup and printing. We think it should be gloss black ink, and if you want it matt, you can clear coat it with a matt lacquer.
Before I go ahead with mine, I wanted to ask if anyone else is interested in having your plate restored with this method. To do so, you'll have to clean and polish your plate, make sure it's flat and send it to me. Once I have them, I'll have them screened and return. Please note that this artwork is specific for this plate, and will not work with other versions.
I think the maximum cost will be about $35 that will cover your part of the artwork development, printing and return shipping. If we get enough plate (more than ten) if would be cheaper.
In any event, I have attached a sample of the artwork and a pic of my plate for comparison. If anyone can confirm that this plate was used on other years or cars, please let me know as we can open up the opportunity.
If you are interested in this, please email me directly at vicpanza@gmail.com.
Thanks,
Vic
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Be interesting to see a few photos of your truck. I have a spare bed that came off a 1937 Dodge, if you have any needs.
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As you may know, this is a one year clock that is specifically made for a 1950 Champion. Very hard to find, and this one has been refurbished. Please email or call with questions. Thanks, Vic, 412-956-2852
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Thanks so much for this lead on the part. Have dropped them a note and hope to speak with them next week. Hopefully this part will fit my regulator??
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Two steps forward and three back. Well, was cleaning the mounting clip on the windshield regulator and decided to soak the mechanism in some Evapo-Rust to clean the gear. After about an hour, I noticed that the tape had come apart. Prior to putting it in the solution, it appeared to be in good condition. Was kind of surprised, and now really have a set back.
Might anyone know if this part is being repoed, or might you have one in your parts box. Balance of mechanism is in good condition. I glass-beaded the mounting clip and then tumble polished it to clean it up. Put a fresh coat of lacquer on it once done.
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A few yeas ago, I sold my 1950 Champion convertible, but hung on to some really hard to find parts, as I intended to get this type of car back one day (and still do). But, I am on the back end of another restoration and decided to offer these parts as I could use the finds for the new vehicle.
So, if anyone has any use for these, please drop me a line. I have them listed on eBay, but prefer to sell direct. Please send me a message through the forum, and we can connect to discuss items and prices.
Parts include:
1. AC-1879 1950 Champion clock; rebuilt and in excellent condition
2. Convertible window frame for 1947-1951 cars; not bad chrome, but I would have it plated and new glass
3. AC-2047 NOS windshield washer kit in original box
I've attached a few pictures, and you can also see this on eBay, user name: ttrponline
Thanks
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Yea..I never believe too much of what I hear about how many are left. Thought the group would be interested in seeing this. Curious as to price...is this within reason for this model? I have a 1937 MC and a modified 1929 sedan that was cut in half to make a truck. Really next modification, but not worth much.
Thanks
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http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/5025565368.html
Found this in the Pittsburgh Craigslist. He is asking $14K but not less then $13K. Thought it was interesting, and seems to be fairly complete given age.
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Hello, stumbled across this ad : a couple of questions if you don't mind, is the transmission case stamped. T-85. W G Div. Does the shift lever go down through the bellhousing? Asking because I' m looking for parts for my 1937 Borg Warner T-85 transmission with overdrive, it's missing the shift lever clutch assy., and bell housing. Let me know if you have these parts or can give me a lead. Thank you. Dave
Thanks for your note, but sold all of this about a year ago
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I believe the other parts were chrome plated. When I took the handle to my plater, he though that the handle had nickle on it, as it would have been more durable then chrome??? When I stripped this handle, the nickle plating extended about 8 to 10 inches down the handle from the top. Have some other pictures of that somewhere around here. Hope this helps.
Trico motor needed for 1937=38 truck
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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Thanks. I did find and original and am now getting it cleaned up. Having a new exterior bezel cut as the original was pretty corroded.