vicpanza

Thanks. Put lots of work and $$ into it

Perfect. Thanks. Have been watching eBay, and it was rather dry!!

Thanks for your consideration. Not sure those would work, as I am doing a full stock restoration. I can get repos from the Dodge supplies, with the correct lenses, just thought I'd ask if anyone out there had some junkers for restoration! Here's a progress shot. Hood going on tomorrow, and bed is almost ready. Have all my headlight parts, and getting ready to build up the tail light. I plan ti insert another socket in the can for a turn signal, so that it's all one unit.

Thanks for any/all help.

I believe it is stamped DATO or some such brand. Mounting post are at 2" on center. Overall diameter is about 3 9/16". Just looking for a pair that are similar. Will modify for the right side if necessary (close up the license plate lens hole). Thanks for your interest with this

Was wondering if anyone has a tail light can or two around for sale. I have pictured below the type of can I am looking for. Have searched around locally for a used part, but no one seems to have anything available. Any condition would do. This can and bezel have the bezel mounting screws located just below the center line (not symmetrical). Could use one or two, and bezels, if you have them. Please drop me a note and like to see pics of what you may have. Appreciate any help you can provide.

Assume these are sold? Also, might you know where I could get replacement lenses for this type of light? Thx

Dave: Thanks for the parts info and all the pictures. Looks like I can get what I would need to do a stock restoration. Still working on getting the title issues resolved and will then see what I can do to get this vehicle Thx

Noticed that the top cover on the dash is missing. Did this have a crank out windshield similar to my 1937? Seems like the cover will be another difficult piece to find??

Thanks for the info. Appreciate your consideration

Really, thanks again for all this info. Lots of great pictures and videos. Two questions: are the wire wheels correct for this year, and what is it about the box that makes you believe it's not correct. I see the headlight issue. Really appreciate everyone's feedback and all the details you've picked out. Seller did have a build card and original engine code is T5-3193. Build date is Feb 5, 1934. So how difficult to find a T5 coded engine. Other then the serial number, this engine would be identical to the truck model? Not the horns on this, assume they are correct?

Thanks for all the info

Thanks. Sorry I'm killing you. Maybe you'd like to come spend a week or two and help me work on it:)

Correction: VIN number is correct for Feb 1934 build. Anyone have a spare 1937 (T5) motor laying around:)

Hi folks: Looking at a 1934 Dodge and was wondering if anyone out there has thoughts on this. VIN number is 8025488 and engine serial number is DR-40I42 (appears to be from a car). Seller does not have any knowledge of engine condition, and I am a little concerned that the freeze plugs are out. How available at T5 motors, which is what this should have?? I've attached some pictures, and will appreciate any feedback as to issues I may be missing. I am fixated on stock restorations, so the motor is already an issue. Or, am I making too much of this?

Thanks for the feedback. I just received this from the seller: VIN - 8025488 Eng. DR-40-I-42 VIN number looks like a 1935, not a 1934. And appears to have a Dodge car motor. I am curious as to perspective on this motor. How critical is it for most of you that these vehicles have their original motors. Am I making too much of this? I have added some pictures of the truck and will appreciate any feedback from the group

Thanks. That's what I suspected.

Thx

Hi folks: I found what the seller believes is a 1934 Dodge pickup in the MN area. In speaking with him, he gave me an engine serial number that made little sense (DR-40I42), and I have not yet received the VIN number. In looking over various resources, appears that if the engine is original, it should have a T5 code. Also, have some general info regarding VIN numbers. Does anyone on the forum have experience with this year, and can you give me some direction on VIN and engine serial numbers. I am obsess with original vehicles, and if I'm going to make this type of commitment and investment (who am I kidding calling it an investment), I just want to make sure I am starting with an original truck. Also, if there is anyone in MN who might be willing to have a look at this for me, it would be a huge help. I am in Pittsburgh, and would really like to get an experienced opinion as to eyes on condition, etc. Thanks Vic Panza

Vary cool and love those seats.

I had a few VIN plates silk screened and was really pleased with the results. Pictures don't do them justice. I cleaned and polished the plates, and my screener used a semi-gloss ink to screen these. May clearcoat mine to protect it, but maybe not? Thought you might like to see the results. He is holding the screen and can do more if anyone out there is interested. Best if we can get several to do at one time.

Dug mine out and it is the drivers side. I misspoke as it is not painted, and will need some glazing to smooth out some pitting. But very usable. Has been blasted and primed, and ready to finish. Why don't you contact me at vicpanza@gmail.com to discuss $$ if interested. I can also send you some pics if helpful.

Hi: If you are looking for the interior door moulding that goes around the window opening, I have one. It actually was painted gray when I had my parts painted. Will need to see what side it's for. As for the regulator tape, I just went through this and ended up buying a Chevy unit to get the tape. Tried to have them made, but easier said then done. There is a guy in the Phila area that is making a repo of this, and he has the tapes available, but they look like they are bluish spring steel. Also, try Dodge Central in MI as they are making regulators for the 1939-47 trucks. Drop me a note regarding the window moulding if this is of any help. Vic

Thought I would offer up some comments gained over the past two months chasing two perplexing issues. I can't believe it took this much time to figure this out, and got all sorts of help (some good, others not) as to what the issues were. As with so many things, turned out to be some rather simple fixes, but what a challenge in figuring this out. Guess I need to get another 10,000 hours in rebuilding this old stuff. This is all for a 1937 Dodge MC pickup that is undergoing a full frame off restoration. Literally, every nut, bolt and screw removed, and all parts restored. 1. Burn points - once I got it started, kept burning out the points. Found an old condenser had been used in the engine rebuild, and replaced that. Cleaned points, but they kept burning to the point that the truck would stall out and not start. Installed a new coil. After speaking with a retired auto-electric guy in the area, he had me check voltage, and wouldn't you know that the rebuilt generator was putting out over 10V. Adjusted the brush and got the output to 7.5, which is within spec. Voltage at the distributor is about 4V. Seems like a fairly straightforward fix, but you have no idea how long I chased this. Took me some time to figure out that the points were the reason the engine was stopping and not start. 2. Fuel gauge - man, this one was a killer. Had a NOS gauge that was blowing fuses. Sent it to Bob's Speedometer and they told me it was not good. Bought another one from them. When power turned on, gauge spiked to full. Didn't know if it was a bad gauge or other wiring issue. Sent the gauge back (twice) and they confirmed that it was OK. Checked all grounds and they were OK (tank). Finally dropped the tank this past weekend and pulled the sending unit (a repo). Using my meter, confirmed that it was working (range is from 0 to 90 ohms). Pulled the gauge out of the truck, and using some leads, connected the gauge and sending unit as they would be installed (needed to ground the gauge mounting flange). Attached it to the battery and the needle spiked. Happened to move the float, and noticed that the gauge did work, but was reading full with the float in the low position and empty with the float in the high position (backwards). But this was great progress as I could actually see the needle move. Apparently, this is what I was seeing with it installed. With just a few gallons of fuel, the float was in the full down position, and the gauge read full. Switched the wires, but did not change. Spoke to Bob's and they mentioned that the gauges are designed to read 0 to 90 or 90 to 0 ohms. My repo sending unit was configured to read full when the shortest distance is achieved in the rheostat. Bob's suggested I try and switch the position of the float, but after some experimentation, discovered that it only fit in one direction. So, I took the plastic rheostat off the sending unit, rotated it 180 degrees and remounted it using a few small brass screws. Now it works exactly as it should. WHAT A BEAR. PROBABLY HAVE OVER 40 HOURS CHASING THESE ISSUES DOWN, AND HOPE THIS NOTE MAY HELP SOMEONE ELSE OUT THERE. While I had my test system in place for the gauge, I tested the original gauge that was all crusty, and it worked fine. Can't thanks Bruce and Matt at Bob's enough for troubleshooting this with me, and their patience. In retrospect, I would never install another fuel sending unit/gauge without first testing them for operation. Guess we ought to keep in mind that repo parts are not necessarily identical to the originals, and we just need to confirm operation, etc. Attached some pictures to show parts.

Thought I would offer up some comments gained over the past two months chasing two perplexing issues. I can't believe it took this much time to figure this out, and got all sorts of help (some good, others not) as to what the issues were. As with so many things, turned out to be some rather simple fixes, but what a challenge in figuring this out. Guess I need to get another 10,000 hours in rebuilding this old stuff. This is all for a 1937 Dodge MC pickup that is undergoing a full frame off restoration. Literally, every nut, bolt and screw removed, and all parts restored. 1. Burn points - once I got it started, kept burning out the points. Found an old condenser had been used in the engine rebuild, and replaced that. Cleaned points, but they kept burning to the point that the truck would stall out and not start. Installed a new coil. After speaking with a retired auto-electric guy in the area, he had me check voltage, and wouldn't you know that the rebuilt generator was putting out over 10V. Adjusted the brush and got the output to 7.5, which is within spec. Voltage at the distributor is about 4V. Seems like a fairly straightforward fix, but you have no idea how long I chased this. Took me some time to figure out that the points were the reason the engine was stopping and not start. 2. Fuel gauge - man, this one was a killer. Had a NOS gauge that was blowing fuses. Sent it to Bob's Speedometer and they told me it was not good. Bought another one from them. When power turned on, gauge spiked to full. Didn't know if it was a bad gauge or other wiring issue. Sent the gauge back (twice) and they confirmed that it was OK. Checked all grounds and they were OK (tank). Finally dropped the tank this past weekend and pulled the sending unit (a repo). Using my meter, confirmed that it was working (range is from 0 to 90 ohms). Pulled the gauge out of the truck, and using some leads, connected the gauge and sending unit as they would be installed (needed to ground the gauge mounting flange). Attached it to the battery and the needle spiked. Happened to move the float, and noticed that the gauge did work, but was reading full with the float in the low position and empty with the float in the high position (backwards). But this was great progress as I could actually see the needle move. Apparently, this is what I was seeing with it installed. With just a few gallons of fuel, the float was in the full down position, and the gauge read full. Switched the wires, but did not change. Spoke to Bob's and they mentioned that the gauges are designed to read 0 to 90 or 90 to 0 ohms. My repo sending unit was configured to read full when the shortest distance is achieved in the rheostat. Bob's suggested I try and switch the position of the float, but after some experimentation, discovered that it only fit in one direction. So, I took the plastic rheostat off the sending unit, rotated it 180 degrees and remounted it using a few small brass screws. Now it works exactly as it should. WHAT A BEAR. PROBABLY HAVE OVER 40 HOURS CHASING THESE ISSUES DOWN, AND HOPE THIS NOTE MAY HELP SOMEONE ELSE OUT THERE. While I had my test system in place for the gauge, I tested the original gauge that was all crusty, and it worked fine. Can't thanks Bruce and Matt at Bob's enough for troubleshooting this with me, and their patience. In retrospect, I would never install another fuel sending unit/gauge without first testing them for operation. Guess we ought to keep in mind that repo parts are not necessarily identical to the originals, and we just need to confirm operation, etc. Attached some pictures to show parts.