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Everything posted by vicpanza

  1. In addition to the above info, please keep in mind that this is very old technology. Even though my steering components are mostly new and tight, this system has some play in it. I bought a steering wheel puller off eBay yeras ago that did the trick. Have now used it for several projects. If you need one, I could lend it to you. Just pay postage costs in both directions. Or, check with your local auto parts stores as they may have one to lend you. I have used some bolt loosner on mine and a few turns on the pulled and it poped right off. That's after several weeks of manually puling, etc.:) LMK
  2. My body guy custom mixed my paint. I don't have a formula. Do you have any grey left to use for color match? If not, I may be able to get you a sample. LMK
  3. This is actually fairly easy to rebuild, provided the gears are not worn out. You'll want to install a new seal and some shims where the top attaches. The only error I made was not to use enough silicon sealer when I put the body back together, and it leaked. (I had to mand make that gasket...the one that goes between the two sections of the body) Had to take it out of the truck and fix. So, once done, fill it with steering fluid and stand it up to see if it leaks. Lot easier to fix if you don't have to take it out again. Let me know if you have any questions. My truck is a '37 MC and I am sure the gear boxes are the same.
  4. On my '37, I had the outer gasket that Alan shows and the tape that went around the glass and sealed it to the window frame channel. I didn't have any other gaskets on my front window.
  5. Good luck with your truck, and let me know if you have any questions along the way
  6. Not sure if this is much help, but here are a few pictures I took for another fellow. The blocks fit in the front corners for the cab between the lower flange and cab floor. The bolts fit through cut-outs in the block, not holes. Do you have a set of these blocks?
  7. I found a donor truck that someone was chopping and took all the sheet metal, except for the bed. Sold the cab and other parts, but used those fenders, rear and front. This was the first full restoration I did and got kind of carried away. Used to restore antique toy trains, but it was much simpler given their size. It was an obsession, but seeking help for that. Have a 1961 Nash Metro and Triumph TR3 in line for next projects. But, getting smarter about those, and doing more work myself, and finding better sources for parts. Thanks for your note.
  8. Yes, there are the original running boards, and believe there was not welting between the ends of the running boards and fenders (front or back). But, my truck was in such bad condition that much of this stuff was gone. The fronts of my rear fendesr had been chopped off. Attached a few pics of what I startered with
  9. When I was assembling, I also had that concern. Using a few clamps, I was able to pull the fender and running board into position. The splash pan on one side of my truck fit perfectly, the other was straight and there was a large gap between it and the fender. I was able to work it into shape/position and get some bolts in it. Once tighten down, it all lined up and came together. Hope this helps.
  10. Thanks for the comments regarding the transmission. Need some more time on this and optimistic I can get her to shift down. I did disassemble and clean this installing new seals and gaskets. My running boards were original. A solid steel base that had a rubber coating vulcanized to the surface, just as you described. There was an old guy in TN by the name of Huntly Acuff who did these using original style dies, but believe he passed away. The only other company I am aware of in the US who does them is RAM Restorations in VA (Charlie Little). The interior door cards and other covers are repos from QuietRide in Stockton, CA. The panels are very close to the originals in surface texture with leatherette like finish, and lines pressed in certain areas as the originals. Given my obsession with my project, I ended up making paper templates of the door cards and front kick panels and they cut them to size for me. We then drilled the mounting holes on site and painted with our grey paint. The folks ate Quiet Ride were really great about working with me on this basis. (the original door cards they sent didn't fit to my liking and they insisted I just keep them and they made me custom cards to my templets). I did the same thing with my floor mat. Bought stock material from Restoration Specialties in Winder, PA, and made a template for that as well. Got a nice fit.
  11. Thanks. I was surprised that I could drive it almost everywhere in 3rd gear (here is Pittsburgh area with lots of hills) as it has incredible torque. Don't know why I was under the impression that it was synchroed into second gear?? Guess there is no power steering either:)
  12. Well, after five years and more $$ then I will admit to, the '37 is about done. Still some minor work to do but have been able to drive it and do some adjusting, etc. Runs like a truck and is rather noisy. Have one question for the group. I was able to adjust the clutch pedal to get better shifting without grinding while going up. This is supposed to be synchronized but does not seem to want to down-shift from 3rd to 2nd. Can get it in if going very slow (I also double clutch when shifting). I added some STP to the transmission to add some viscosity to the 85W-140 gear oil. Didn't seem to make too much difference. I believe that just about every nut, bot and screw were removed and all parts reconditioned or replaced. Full engine rebuild with hardened valve seats and balanced. Rebuild the steering gear box and used NOS gauges. Cloth covered wiring harness from RI Wiring. I ended up having a new floor fabricated here in Pittsburgh and then replaced the head panel and tailgate. All new glass and rebuilt the door remotes and window risers (had new gears fabricated as the pot metal ones were shot). Used all SS hardware with lettering ground off and slotted screws. To the best of my knowledge, this is a full stock restoration to original factory specs. Tried to keep it correct. Thanks to so many of you who offered help and advice, especially Jim who has been down to help hang fenders and brainstorm. If in Pittsburgh, stop over for truck rides.
  13. May not have understood your querstion. On my headlights, you remove the lower screw and the lens bushes in at the bottom and you then pull it out. Not sure if that's what you have??
  14. Not sure if this will be much help, but here's a pic of the internal parts once cleaned and tumbled. The flat spring clips go through the springs. I believe I saw this stuff for sale somewhere. Maybe Andy Bernbaum (https://www.oldmoparts.com/). Let me know if I can be of any further help Vic
  15. The other hole, towards the front of the shield, is for clearance for the fuel pump.
  16. John: Sorry this took so long. To be honest, I got distracted, and forgot about it until I was under the truck today. Attached tow pics of each side from front and back, from the bottom. Please don't hesitate to touch base should you have any questions. Vic
  17. Have attached my build card, if it helps triangulate this discussion. My truck was 20th Century Red over black fenders. Most of it makes sense, except the color selection. The gas shocks, etc. 1937 Dodge MC - Panza.pdf
  18. Hi Warren. Just following up to our phone discussion. You get the engine and VIN numbers for the truck. Pictures of engine and interior also helpful. Thx Vic
  19. Seller is motivated, if you have any interest.
  20. I am trying to help a fellow out. He has this 1935 Dodge that is an older restoration. I have seen the truck, and it is fairly nice. Would be a great driver. Definitely not a show quality restoration. As you will see from the pictures, it was a frame on resto and most of the undercarriage was not restored. I would clean up some wiring (horn button) and install a correct mat for the cab. Various small items to address, but definitely a solid driver. The chap is asking $25K or best offer. Not my truck or number. If you have any interest in this, please contact the seller directly and let him know I referred him (I am Vic Panza). His name is Paul and his number is 304-564-3090. He lives in New Cumberland, WV, about an hour west of Pittsburgh. I've added a few pictures, and a link to a DropBox file with more pics: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/nlrvnqz2co6o6ze/AAC_B7rGZLVAdDdL1mg-CT1Fa?dl=0
  21. Hello: I just saw this post and was wondering if you still have this part. It looks just like what was used in my 1933 Dodge pickup truck. Trying to locate a replacement for mine. Appreciate any feedback such as part number, etc. The Dodge part number for what I need is 312886 and the book notes that it is a Delco Remy. But, they don't note the Delco number. Thx Vic
  22. Had these on my post war Dodge trucks (1939-1947)
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