aussiecowboy

Very hard to find, the threads are all a bit thin after 80+ years. You can grind the thread off and cut a new thread one size smaller.

I've just bought a 1923 Flint and would be interested to hear from other owners.

The rear mounts on the 29 provide all the strength and rigidity, the engine block is solid bolted to the chassis on both sides with no rubber or cushioning, if the engine rotates at all then you have bigger problems! There is only one bolt on the front of the engine and as you suggest, it's more a locator than anything.

It is worth noting that the emblems were the same in 1926 and 1927 but 1928 was different. The earlier ones are considerable larger than the 28 emblems.

I've pulled a few out of parts car engines but never one good enough to use, I've been searching for a NOS one also, not for anywhere near as long as you but for a number of years, no luck at all.

I was hoping you'd see this one mate. That's an idea, I might machine up an adapter piece to use a modern thermostat.

I had this problem in my 37 for a long time. It eventually came down to cranking speed, I rebuilt the starter, added a second earth and thicker power cable and it improved dramatically.

Does anyone know a source for thermostats for 29/30 engines? I've been unsuccessful in my search.

I have them on my 37 and love them.

Thanks for the reply Vila. I have also posted at vcca as you suggested Don. Cheers.

Anyone? I just want to narrow it down to a year if possible.

This Chev, or what's left of it, is on a friends farm. I'm trying to work out exactly what year it is, any suggestions?

I will take it Chuck, will send you a private message.

Get in line trini.

USPS flat rate box is about as cheap as anything.

Will you post international?

Not yet sadly, several of my other cars have had more pressing mechanical issues, it should be soon though.

They use a single coach bolt and a 2 piece lock nut, much the same as modern Drake lock nuts. I'll see if any of my photos capture it but I am not hopeful, they are very will hidden. I imagine Tinindian will be along shortly, I'd be surprised if he didn't have a picture.

Do the fan belt up extremely tight and remove spark plugs, the fan should then turn the engine no problem, do that with one hand and put a thumb over the plug hole with the other. Remember to loosen the belt before starting.

It's too late for before and after pictures of this one, the job is already done and the engine assembled. The seat cutters are amazing, a flawless 3 angle seat in a few minutes per valve. The valve resurfacing tool is good, but I think a stone grinder would give a slightly better finish. All the valves and seats took only the quickest bit of lapping to verify contact area, overall I'm extremely happy with the quality and finish.

This car isn't by chance a recent purchase in Australia is it?

It means the engines cylinders have been machined out to a slightly larger diameter than original, over sized pistons and rings are then installed. The result is that the capacity of the engine is slightly increased, in your case to 360 cubes. This is done when rebuilding a worn engine.

Well my local Neway agent was extremely helpful, he put together a kit for me that gave me everything I needed and nothing I didn't. I also bought the easy turn handle and the Gizmatic valve refacing tool. I can't wait to get them and put them to use.

Not an issue, none of my cars have them.

The Australian agent for Neway is looking into making up a kit to best suit my needs. I firmly believe in buying quality and only buying once, so I'm feeling good about this. Thanks for all the advice.