avgwarhawk
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Posts posted by avgwarhawk
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American Racing Wheels. 1980s-90s wheel design. They gotta go!
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5 hours ago, Bloo said:
Mechanical regulators regulate by bouncing or vibrating the points. The bouncing can be slower than normal due to excessive resistance in the wiring, sometimes leading to more noticeable flickering in the lights. If it is not objectionable, I wouldn't worry about it too much. Maybe clean all the connections. Keep an eye out for a degraded crimp getting hot. I would also do the things @EmTee mentioned.
No flickering of lights. Cleaning all connections can never be a bad thing.
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2 hours ago, NailheadBob said:
Once you have check above suggestions and if still have issue,
Another item when checking is the nuts holding the wire harness connections on back side of amp gauge if maybe vibration has worked them a little loose?
Bob
I'll take a look. Always best to check the entire system. I can say it's not let me down in the 13 years I have owned this Buick.
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Will do. May be a bit until I get to it. I'll keep you posted.
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Did a search of the forums without much luck. Going to check my manual and also what all here may know/experienced. My amp gauge in my 54 Buick will from time to time bounce up and down. Not wildly. But for several miles it will bounce up and down. Other times it steady in the middle. The system is charging the battery and testing shows a good charge. What are the possible causes of a bouncing amp gauge needle? As a side note, the battery is known good.
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I tried a NOS value. It lasted about 5 minutes. The rubber is not quite what it was when assembled years ago. Hopefully yours is good. It's not a bad job. I spend more time with a wet/dry vacuum getting the gallons of antifreeze out of the carpet. 🤦
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Me and the missus went to Cars and Coffee St. Michaels MD Car Museum.
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Right now I'm getting zero miles to the gallon. Too busy to get them out on the road. Trying to change that tomorrow.
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18 hours ago, WQ59B said:
On my '59 Invicta- someone had eliminated the heater control valve and fasioned an elbow so it was always open (coolant flow). Managed to find another one- there seem to be 100s of slightly different ones, mostly the portion that interfaces with the controls. A '60 Pontiac one I have on hand is noticably different there.
Just got off the phone with Jim Tucker @ heatercontrolvalve.com
I had been trying to reach him by phone for a number of weeks, today he stated he would not be able to do any rebuilds soon or in the near future, that he wasn't well. I believe he is around 80 yrs of age. He advised to watch eBay for replacement seals.
I've seen the one NAPA replacement seal, but there is another one that seals the water flow off... have not yet learned to what degree they interchange (Ranco <> Harrison).
Any further info on Harrison control valve parts/rebuilds would be appreciated; going to tackle this job myself.
They most certainly dumped the valve because they are the weakest link in the system. I had rebuilt at Fusick. Sadly it blew out in under a year. They rebuilt it again under warranty. If this one goes I will install a core without a control valve.
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Another factor to consider. An engine is running poorly. The owners first thought is replacing the plugs and some other ignition items. Engine runs the same. Engine then diagnosed as bad cylinder or similar. New plugs pulled. Use them later. Ain't bothering replacing with the old. Car left where it sits.
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McGuires Plastic Polish.
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The ability to take pictures to reference later is invaluable.
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5 hours ago, John_S_in_Penna said:
The XS version, with its wrap-around rear window,
is scarce and distinctive. It's a good find for a
Toronado fan. I think the regular version is more
gracefully styled, but this XS should find a willing
owner if he lowers his price a bit.
Maybe a $12,000 car?
I would say $15k. It's overall nice. Very different design.
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This is a first for me. I have never seen this version. Very different and distinctive.
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I believe so. 6 volt.
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9 hours ago, ABear said:
Crane companies and pretty much any other company that does overhead lifting also uses more care when securing said straps. Not to mention Crane companies and pretty much any other company to stay in business require the use of PPE plus proper safety protocols that just plain does not happen in a home shop.
It isn't the strap that is the problem, it comes down to how the load is not really secured. As it is, the front strap is not far from popping out and away from the FRONT of the block.
When you go to install said block into a vehicle, you tend to have to tip the back of the block down. That shifts the center of gravity, the front becomes lighter, that action reduces the weight on the front strap. Once you reduce the weight on the front strap, there is less gripping force and the block can slip at the top. Sure the bottom of the block at the front has some iron that may keep block from falling completely out.. But is that really a good idea? You are using nothing but gravity and friction and that works fine in static modes, but gravity (COG) and friction change once you start moving the block around to position it in a car.
Not to mention, you are using the straps as a sling, block depending on how it is made can be heavier on one side, making it a bit less stable.
I would hate to be the one that gave advice to less knowledgeable folks which results in loss of fingers and toes..
Make a couple of lift plates for attaching mechanically to the block or head and be safe.
And yes, I HAVE worked in a industrial manufacturing company for over 20 yrs with a lot of metal much heavier than that engine block. Slinging things wasn't typically used, every thing that was lifted had to use proper attachment points and methods. If no attachment point, then call in the safety team and engineering team to check and double check the setup.
This engine lifted with straps does not require gaffers. It's not 20 tons. OSHA is not required. The straps replaced chains. The engine can still be tilted and maneuvered into place. Sorry, simply not with you on this one.
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15 hours ago, ABear said:
A+ for creativity
However F- for safety.
That could get real ugly in a hurry if for any reason the engine shifted inside the straps.
You have something like 10,000 bolts on that engine you could choose from to lift with that would increase the safety factor greatly..
I would have tried to find a few bolt locations to securely bolt a chain to..
F for safety? Crane companies use similar straps everyday!
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$12-15k. By appointment only. Operators are standing by.
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Nice car. Passenger side mirror needs work.
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Patina is overrated. But not as much as barn dust. That's the gold standard.
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29 minutes ago, Tom99 said:
I have met with Mr. Petty. He is one super guy.
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13 hours ago, old-tank said:
There is never an end to these projects.
True. It's part of this particular hobby.
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I love happy endings.
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Is there input shaft seal missing? If your manual is like mine there is a circular cork seal they fits over the input shaft and seals the area between the shaft and throw out bearing support. Just a guess on yours. Mine leaked out of the front when the seal gave up.
See the black in color seal around the shaft? Does your have a place for it?
72 Centurion Convertible
in Buick - Post War
Posted
Nice job!