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Bud Tierney

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Everything posted by Bud Tierney

  1. jjd52: Many thxx for gracious reply...my personal interest is completely academic, my fickle curiosity piqued by someone on one of these old engine forums trying to ID an L-head/flathead 4cyl engine in a 1917 truck... The only question I would have would be is if H-S engines left the factory with any kind of ID for repairmen and such, usually one of three types: (a) a "tag", usually a 3x4 inch or so metal piece affixed to the block, stating maker, engine model, bore/stroke and serial #; ( some info, often engine model and serial #, stamped somewhere on engine, often on a polished "boss"; © so
  2. If you have a Lycoming engine, please see my Lycoming Oil Pump question, posted yesterday in the General discussions forum. Many thxx!!
  3. One of the Lyc late 20s-early 30s truck engines, the CT 4cyl, used in some IH trucks and others, came with a potmetal or similar construction oil pump that tends to crack and expand in it's mounting, so that it's been known, in attempts to remove, to come out in pieces... (A) If you have any of THE OTHER 4cyl "C" ENGINE LINE---C, CE, CF, CH,CU, C4--series, and maybe more---OR ( If you have ANY period Lyc engine, and you've had your engine apart enough to see the oil pump, would you advise if it looked like potmetal or similar, or had visible cracks or deterioration?? IT WOULD APPEAR this disin
  4. Saw your bump---assume it means your starter search not going smoothly (yes, bad joke!)... Don't recall seeing your inquiry on other old car/truck/engine sites I follow... Have you been able to positively ID which Cont'l engine you have??...if not, what cast/embossed/stamped numbers/letters can you find on your engine??? Have you tried any of the professional obsolete Ign/starter/gen dealers??...if not, try (1) jason@aerrebuild.com (Advanced Elec Rebuilders) (2) click on "sponsors" at the top of the page on smokstak; I believe there's at least one ign outfit--if no help may have suggestions t
  5. Many thxx for replies---yes, I noted the 4-litre on one of the websites in some cursory Googling... It was just academic curiosity on my part; I hadn't been in these before, and I find I have contradictory info in what info I do have, as well as not having a complete 8 and/or 8 b/s list... Per what I have, the 27/8x43/4s would appear to be the closest, but while my info indicates some of these 27/8s innards may be different, the blocks may well be the same...
  6. I'm not familiar with Cont'l 8s---do we know which one was used, or are all the Cont'l 8 blocks interchangeable??
  7. It's my impression the side-drafts were primarily a Brit-Euro thing...perhaps you'd get an ID on one of the UK-Continent sites??
  8. Haven't found anything further on the 4-6cyl question, so will assume just period catalog typos/misinformation---many of these catalog printers cribbed from each other, perpetuating errors... The brief H-Sp history I found said their engines were in 60 or so makes; I'm up to around 90, and I'm sure that's far from complete...
  9. Try mribbich here (his email will come up on search)---sent him a catalog awhile back to help ID a batch of fabric UJoints he'd acquired...
  10. Many thxx for replies!! GD: any H-S ID on those?? All of my stuff is by company designation... On My H-S list i have I, JU (1917), 2700, 6600, 7000,11000 (1930), M326, 30, 90, 91(1936) for 4's (dates being the date of the catalog they first show up in)... E, SA (1917) 7000, 11000 (1930)40, 41, 90, 91 (1936) for 6's...I don't pretend that list to be complete, it's just what show up in my old catalogs...7000, 11000, 90 and 91 appear on both lists as they're all listed in at least two catalogs as "4-6" in the cyl column... My 1930 McCord gasket catalog also has a listing for a 6cyl 4x6 OHV (from
  11. Looking thru some of my old parts catalogs for some Hershell-Spillman listings, I noticed a great deal of confusion in the 7000 and 11000 engine listings... They seemed to go back and forth as to whether either was a 4 or a 6, and whether the bore was 31/4 or 31/2... An occasional misprint is common, but there were a whole bunch of these... Then in the engines section of a 1924 piston catalog I find: 7000---4, 6, 8 cyl---31/4 bore 11000---4, 6 cyl---31/2 bore...as if these engines were issued in 4 and 6cyl versions (leave alone the V8)... Both a 30 McCord and a 38 Vic gasket catalog show 7000-
  12. Yes, as Clincher said, Chilton Flat Rate/repair manual shows car serial # "nameplate on footboard", "name plate on toeboard" for the 28's shown. Another adds "under carpet".
  13. LAYDEN: In case the Dodge people haven't replied-- I've sen a number of such references, but didn't note them as I don't follow the mainline trucks/cars... Mroz mentions a 1927 60HP L-hd 6 designed by Dodge, built by Cont'l, and used in their 2T truck... Std Cat text makes the same mention, except states 1928... Only one of my period catalogs lists them, a 1930 wrist pin catalog: Dodge Car: 1927 Senior 6 Cont'l Spec (Special?) 6cyl 31/4 bore 1928-29 Sen 6, Std 6, Victory 6 Cont'l 6cyl 33/8 bore Dodge Trk: 1927-28 2T Cont'l Spec 6cyl 31/4 bore...the company part number matches
  14. Didn't pick up on this thread when it started for some reason... For all things obsolete Cont'l the generally accepted place to start is Garrad (Gerry/Jerry) Moon at Montes Eqpmt, Chicago, IL,obsolete Cont'l parts dealers...garradmoon@montes@flash.net or montesequipment.com... P A Ross machinery (Dallas, TX) has also been mentioned as helpful with old Cont'ls...parossmachinery.com... You're fortunate in that at least some parts for the 16C are shared with other Cont'l engines (I understand Cont'l gave different designations to basically the same engine when used by different car makers)... A 3
  15. Can't help on your interchange, but can advise that if you're reduced to buying copies of numerical ID pages from gasket catalogs I've found the ones in my 38 Victor abbreviated---index lists one or two engines when gasket (for a 4cyl Buda in my case) actually fit 6 or 7 as listed in the Buda pages...with sympathy, Bud
  16. As mentioned, Jewett was part of Paige-Detroit, later Paige, and when the Paige died in 1927 it was sold to the Graham Bros, who reorganized as Graham-Paige (Std Cat)... There's a graham-paige.com website; if you're lucky, that's the place to start for info, altho it may not cover Jewett as, technically, it was not "Graham built"... Parts availability depends-- Std cat says Paige "...built all its own engines...thru WWI years...Paiges of the Twenties carried Continentals..."... The point here is that if your 1925 has a Paige built engine it may well be harder to find parts for than a Cont'l en
  17. Yes, you're right---at least some of the early sealed beams had a sealed-in bulb; I recall seeing them and wondering if it was some kind of early hybrid light (don't recall make), but can't say if that was true over all sealed beam makers or not. General note: if sealed beams seem dim, check grounds first--for some reason at least the early sealed beams were susceptible to dimming if grounds not good.
  18. OOPS---garradmoon@montes@flash.net, or montesequipment.com
  19. CB: Haven't been in site for awhile; just noticed your starter post... While I'm sure Laydens info is reliable (I'm assuming he has a starter ref independent of engine makers ID)...which cont'l is in your 1922 seems to be a matter of who you ask... (A) Std Cat US Cars shows a 4 and 6 for 1922: the 22-K-4 4cyl and the 22-7-R for the 6. Since my old catalogs list a Lycoming K or KB for the 4, we can probably assume it was the Cont 7R in the 6 (the 7W is listed for various 1918-19 6s)... ( 1930 McCord gasket catalog lists a model 60 6cyl 1919-24 using Cont'l 7R and/or?? 8R---the 7R seems to be 31
  20. My set had a nervous breakdown awhile back, and since has transmitted in GB instead of KB...got inst's here somewhere to reduce size, but never get around to it... Would be redundant anyhow, as the club will have the reliable info you need, as well as be the most accurate source...parts catalogs are often weak reeds to lean on... If for some reason club can't help may just post; for small stuff easier than taking pic, trans to cpmptr, trying to transmit, etc (low-tech here!).
  21. King Products K-1140 lists as .810 OD, 5 5/32 Length Under Head (whatever that means) and "Pin type" (other types are Threaded, Plain, and Spec. (special?))... There're several quite close: same diam and Pin type, only slightly longer...grind 'em off?? You'll have to find out if all "pin type" are the same---while there's no catalog section for king bolt pins (bushings, yes, but no "pins"), that's not proof they're all exactly alike... Incidentally, king bolt spec list is also headed "steering knuckle bolts"... Have you been talking to the Hupp club people on this?? Some other period Hupp king
  22. Just noticed your inquiry.... March 36 King Products (they must've issued these every month !??!) has a note on the tie rod ends: "...tie rod socket and intermediate rod MUST BE INSTALLED TOGETHER..." (their capitals)...TWO SETS are listed for "...1934 417W, 421J..." can send specs, and for king pins, if wanted...the socket fits a whole array of cars, only the intermediate rod makes the sets different... All tie rod sections seem to be headed "Tie Rod Sockets and Intermediate Rods" Your king pins ("king bolts" in the catalog) show for, as mentioned above, 34-35 417W and 517W.... Remember part
  23. On your starter problem---if it's still jumping out of engagement and spinning, pucker up and pull the tin plate off the bottom of the flywheel housing---if there isn't one, or any way to look at the flywheel teeth, you'll have to pull the starter and look in the hole--- What you don't want to see as someone slowly turns the motor over (plugs out) is places with badly worn ring gear teeth... While 6s are better than 4s (4s tend to stop in four places, 6s in six, concentrating starting wear in those places) they do wear enough that the starter gear will slip out of engagement and motor until yo
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