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Bud Tierney

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Everything posted by Bud Tierney

  1. I'm suffering a little whiplash here...per a 36 catalog Erskine 1927 #50=Cont 8F; 1928-29 #51, 52 to eng #9F 142790=Cont 9F; 1929 #52 after 9F 142790=Cont 9F; 1930 #53=Stude 1930 31/4... Both Erskine section and Cont'l section shows 8F 25/8; 9F 23/4... A 1930 McCord gasket catalog shows Stude Motor 6 , pass 18-28 Big Six models EG,EK.EP; 1927 President, Commander, EW, Bus, Commander GB, Bus BA with a 37/8 x5... That 1930 catalog agrees Erskine to 1930 has the 25/8, 23/4 and 31/4;and shows no Stude 31/4 The 36 catalog doesn't list a Stude 31/4 until "30-31 #53, 54" and 32-33 #55, 56", which sound like "Erskine" models folded into Stude, and 34-36 Dictator 6 and a batch of A models... Now, these old parts catalogs are never complete, and contain many errors/omissions; with that in mind, if the above is correct Erskine pistons should be 25/8, 23/4 or 31/4...
  2. Considerable numbers of 1900s up Automobile Trade Directories and Journals, Commercial Car journals and Power Wagon (trucks), Motor Age, Motor World etc etc are on Googlebooks in toto---all ads included, small articles or squibs about interesting innovations that died, almost always practically crystal clear, endlessly fascinating just to sit an browse thru..
  3. How times've changed...I was well into my 20s before I bought my first new tires, and I wasn't alone by any means (New Mexico, 1950s)..we were all pretty expert at spreading and flexing, looking for X rock breaks, any kind of damage, and if we found a 6 ply so much the better (before Nylon, a monumental improvement for our roads)... Recapping was a major industry, which had it's scammers who loved to plaster thin rubber over blowout breaks...we used to ask people who bought them to send us a postcard to let us know how they lasted, so we could evaluate suppliers (couldn't always get local recaps per demand)......
  4. If you've not gotten patterns, or done so already, post your question on oldihc.org...the sites had its problems---occasionally being inaccessible---but good helpful people there... I've seen comments that some of these were built by Willys, and that the HD213 engine listed for it was IHs copy of a Willys engine, but I don't know any of that for a fact, personally, or whether the Willys0 club has info on them...
  5. Odd this thread came up now, so I'll treat it as serendipity and appeal for advice/suggestions... Mainesteam on smokstak is looking for a Wisc D4 (6cyl 53/4x61/2=1013 cid) or the smaller D1 and D2=844, D3=927, from the late 20s/early30s period; one of the places gasoline engines this size were used were in gasoline locomotives and larger gasoline engined railcar coaches etc... For those railfans reading this, I know of narcoa.org, but are there any other railroad sites that have such old eqpmt forums that'd be a good place to post an inquiry---not necessarily just period railcars but also heavier RR const/repair etc eqpmt in geberal?? Any comments/suggestions appreciated.
  6. I'll go with Todd C above...while the old car hobby isn't necessarily a rich mans sport, it's no service to newly interested parties to minimize the all too real costs involved in a major project...and while it's also true some heartfelt desires can't be looked at from a price standpoint, life does tend to intervene... For those who have 20-30K surplus funds, without any concerns for long term family income, without depriving the wife of some of the things she enjoys or the kids looming college educations, I'm very happy for you; you're very fortunate...but you really should take into consideration not everyone's that fortunate... IMHO, letting a new enthusiast get bogged down a project beyond their means, that turns into a family albatross, will not help the hobby...better something not quite so distinctive that can be finished, operated, driven, enjoyed, than a financial sinkhole in the garage that family members remember, unkindly, as "Dad's Obsession"... None of this is meant harshly; it's just the way life and its responsibiities are for the majority of old car hobbyists.....
  7. (Sigh)---insufficient data; can you be more precise?? "Cranked twice"--normal speed? slow/sluggish? "Switch has power"--ign switch? any power to anything else: heater/def motor, lights in or out?? Battery age?? Truck been run daily or sat for 6 months?? Stuff like that...
  8. If your belt is loose enough to be floppy, and you fear you may not be getting correct fan speed (and snugging to normal lets it run off) there're various kinds of Belt Dressing that make the belt and pulleys "stickier'......
  9. That Ford comment reminded me of an odd booklet (PB, 8x10, 100 pgs) I'd forgotten--"The Penzing Automotive Book Of Knowledge, Eighth Ed, Walter O Penzing, Penzing Pub's NY--Containing Substitutions on Pass & Truck Parts", which seems primarily what Ford parts, especially A/AA parts, fit other cars, but has some other interchange info as well...no pub date, but latest model listed is 1941 Under makes/clutch lists only G-P, not Graham, and has no "64" listing...(lists B-W Damper Plate, Rigid Plate, and Cover Ass'bly, terms I'm not familiar with)... Under Clutch Plate Numerical List And Interchange says Graham-Paige 33-35 that takes CD426 can take 11 other numbers... Then has two lists of what vehicles can take a couple of Ford Truck plates... Under Clutch Cover Ass'bls says "..complete clutch cover ass'blys used in Ford A #BL1523, AA #BL1524 (adjustment change necessary) may be used in: .list includes Graham-Paige 31-33 "64" . That's followed by "...above cars (whole list) use BL2122, 2123, 2483, 2495, 3343. Clutch adjustments mat be changed on cover assemblies with a clutch fixture which parts jobbers usually have, or other methods may be used"...I assume those are all B-W numbers... Under Clutch Release Bearings (Bearing Jobbers-Nice) it says "#N833 used in Ford A, B, 46, 4Cyl, V8, 18, V8-40, 8 Cyl, can use B7580...B7580, also in (list includes Graham 1933 "64") can use 79144---
  10. The Museum's signs on the Climber don't match what I have--which doesn't mean the Museum is wrong, from what I know of the errors/omissions/confusions/misprints ad nauseum in my catalogs... Per my catalogs the 4cyl used in the 4cyl cars and their 11/2 ton truck should be the 7000, generally listed as 31/2x5, altho in at least one catalog as 31/4x5...I have no 1100 engine on my list; the museum may've confused it with the "11000" engine... The 6cyl car engine should be the 11000, and it's generally listed as 31/4x5, altho in one catalog as 31/2x5, AND I see the 31/2x5 in Todd's brochure above, all of which leads me to wonder if both of these were issued in both bores... These "thousand-number" engines were also sometimes referred to as "7000 series" and "11000 series" engines, which could infer engine differences with the "series"...all questions to be researched......I wonder if the "1100" engine has a tag... Climber car and truck, and Pan American were both on my makes list...
  11. As Rusty mentioned, there'll be a ton of stuff online... Theoldmotor piece refers to "over 60 makes"; I've got either just under 90 or just over 90 on my list; and I'm sure it's far from complete. If your makes list is available online I can check mine against yours... Same with engine models--I've only got 16 on my list, including the JU, apparently issued in 41/4 and 47/8 bores... If you dig around in old publications where makes and the engines used are given as H-S, that could mean either Hall-Scott or yours... My information was compiled 95% from old replacement engine parts catalog (rings, valves, bearings etc) that listed makes and engines used, and are not the most reliable sources... With sympathy, Bud
  12. Don't overlook simple things...at night, shine a light thru the radiato to see if accumulated debris might be reducing airflow.
  13. In an earlier thread re' finding Hollywood tie rod ends someone said the Graham Club had a Graham interchange CD; have you checked that??
  14. If, when shifted, the engine dies like the key's been turned off, that could be the problem---all these ATs have a switch or something that prevents starting in gear. I know of one case where that lockout switch---I think on a Toyota?--malfunctioned in exactly that way: cranked up fine, idled, revved, smooth as silk until shifted into gear=immediately died as ignition cut off.
  15. Very, very little matches the quiet delights of finding out what's around the curve ahead or over the next rise---almost always new, lovely, fascinating, always difficult to know time's run out, time to go back, even if you can find a loop so you don't have to retrace. Luckily, wife also similarly affected. It's been indescribable!!
  16. If 29Chry's understanding of your post is correct (spins but doesn't throw into flywheel) and assuming engine is free, not locked up, while on bench when your moved gear back into contact position did it move freely/easily??? Looks clean in photo but if any stickiness/resistance could be sticking on inner crud etc.. If throwing into flywheeland spinning should make some scraping noise even if teeth broken off---but do inspect flywheel teeth, as mentioned above; starter gear looks like appreciable wear, flywheel probably has similar, you may want to remove/replace or turn around original if replacement needed but NLA...If no inspection place, with starter off take plugs out, should be able to rotate by belt, checking teeth thru starter hole.. If throws in but won't turn, pop the band and check brush contacts; problem would be elec failure somewhere---starter getting enough power to throw in but not enough to turn engine over.
  17. I can never seem to remember these things while typing... On shaft drive water pump/gen etc engines that're "stuck', don't overlook the obvious... We bought (50 yrs ago) a 29 Graham that'd sat so long the tires'd rotted and wheels sank into ground (San B'dno, Cal)--stuck tight--poured in kero till ran out exhaust, let sit couple days--stuck--couple weeks--stuck. Then noticed very small bit of movement--turned out,-it was the rusted shaft driven water pump that was stuck; engine was fine.
  18. Can't comment on value Condition could be anything from simply taken out of service as replaced by more modern engine or half the rods wrapped around the crankshaft Sayers & Scoville AKA S&S built funeral vehicles--Oops: cars and trucks, too (learn something new every day!)... The 7R was a quite popular engine, listed in probably 30 makes (cars and trucks) in a list from only two or three old engine parts catalogs, used circa 1919-25, altho .apparently often superceded by the 8R (often listed, under the make, as "78-8R".). Familiar, well known names are Auburn, Case, Elcar, Jordan, Lexington, Moon, Scripps-Booth, Velie...but without production numbers cannot tell how many actually installed; also complicated by fact that old parts catalogs do not always agree on engine/s installed. If you consider pulling plug to try to rotate by hand be gentle; you don't want to twist off distributor drive or things like that..... OOPS---typo---that should've said listed as "7R-8R".. Sheesh--Senior moments---should've suggested also posting on Cont'l Engine forum here and other old car/trk forums, maybe get some replies from interested parties, get an idea if worth picking up or just passing info on....
  19. JTM: "Lights appear to be bright" doesn't answer lights question-- No change=no current draw some dimming=current stopped/blocked somewhere in starting system major dimming/lights out=battery failure (enough to power lights, not enough for starter, or MAJOR elec/mech block==release key immediately or something'll burn out that'll probably be expen$ive... Hot wiring direct to starter sounds like good idea, subject to any possible Buick idiosyncrasies that might prohibit.. NOTE: My sense from your posts is that neither you nor your friend're experienced in these systems, or most of these "shade-tree mechanic" basic checks would've been done; if so, try to find someone who is to guide you, as it's easy to burn out elec parts...
  20. JTM: My apologies--your post came on while I was typing...if car has to be moved quickly/immediately, simply tow it to some near place, fiddle with it at leisure. Check MoTor for towing inst if automatic. OOPS--is that the buck-toothed Buick?? Not an easy rig to tow---Pus by hand, with friends, to close friend/neighbor?? Otherwise need for more data applies. With sympathy, Bud
  21. (Sigh) Insufficient data---do try to be a bit more communicative. Any sound whatsoever when starter engaged (don't know Buick--ign key start?) After dark, turn lights on, hit starter--lights dim?? go out?? no change?? After two-three attempts to engage starter, any warmth in visible connections, in relay/solenoid whatever on top of starter, starter case itself over field coils, starter end plate? Any hot electrical odor? Car has been starting lately--how regularly?? every day? once week? once month? Daily driver?? Started, run around once a month to keep seals alive?? Month ago, just put in new battery--you mean put in new battery, then sat unstarted/unused for month, now wont't engage starter? Have you pulled plugs, tried to rotate by hand, to see in starter bendix locked in flywheel?? The more detailed info re' past performance, recent history, what you've tried, the easier to suggest possible fixes...
  22. While I'm sure you've by now done some checking around and found the above comments to be much closer to reality, you might take a little time to get a better idea of how much of the running gear is there----engine, trans, diff, any gauges in interior of cab, anything missing from engine (carb, ignition system, starter if any, gen etc) things like that---and post it on oldihc for comments. You may well find that it's worth more in pieces (other owners looking for parts made of unobtainium) than as a restoration project. One old catalog lists the 21-26 "S": Speed Trucks using the same engine parts (altho there seems to've been a bearing modification very early on) which MIGHT mean other mechanical parts etc COULD be of interest to such owners/hopeful restorers. It's possible you might have a Lycoming "K" engine (IH used some Wauks and Lycomings in the early years, and I believe even a Hall-Scott); if so, that engine was used in various other old trucks of the period. I have no idea if the engine's now considered rare, but the oldihc people will be helpful. Good luck.
  23. CHASE382 You're right in that flatheads in your CID rang do seem to be limited to Herc; if your V12s seem out of reach, and you're not wedded to flatheads, there are several larger OHV 6s in your range, with Wauks 779 and 817 already in fire truck dual ign installations. Drawback might be th3y don't wind up very tight---145GKB-779 and 145GZB-817 max Permissible RPM 2400; altho I assume T-heads'll be slower--don't have anything on weight, but WEHS could advise. There's also a Herc HXE=935, but all the HX's are HEAVY--4050lbsfor "open type power unit" with "base type oil pan" (industrial engines with cast iron oil pan doubling as base of engine) and appears to include an inst panel and gauges, but no sheet metal hood/housing... Truck type sheet metal pan would save a bunch, but the 4050 is WITHOUT 80lbs electricals and 460lbs clutch...you could drop to one of the RXs---RXLD=558 for 1650lbs plus plus per a 1957? brochure.... Jerry Biro at herculesparts.com would be the person to talk to re' Hercs; he's highly--highly--regarded in the industry; he'd be honest with you and you can rely on his advice. With sympathy, Bud ALSFARMS: Which Wisc do you have?? I don't have many CIDs, and I'm too lazy to run formulas, but looks like should be a D4, M or P???
  24. WHICH 28 Chry 6??? Looks like 3 basic models; gens might be different. A lot of endplates, among similar model gens, were interchangeable; if nothing turns up you might consider a sketch with some dimensions. Have this on the Chry forum here. too??
  25. I had that Pan American ad, or one greatly similar, in my collection for years (mostly sold/traded; checked the leftovers downstairs, folder empty) except the car was in a lovely deep green; it was one of my old favorites. Can't recall if background the same or color of wheels (yellow or cream, whatever it was set the green off beautifully)... The older magazines slower-speed printing process allowed much deeper, richer colors than modern printing; still thumb thru a few of the color ads to admire the effects.
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