Bud Tierney

Cont'l made numerous engines over the years, and you might get better replies posting the engine ID; there should be a tag on it, often half hidden behind accessories... Cont'l was also very good at public relations, getting technical articles on new engines in the trade journals; Googling the engine ID and year may turn some up on yours, often helpful with unfamiliar engines....

You have other possibilities ---if you haven't already thought of and tried (1) Many Cont'ls were issued in a kind of "series, in which several engines would share a few or quite a few parts...let us know which Cont'l you have, as it's possible there may be "sister" engines with the same drive gear..... (2) If the gear teeth are worn, gears can be built back up or new ones can be machined, altho may be too costly... (3) For NOS or advice on something that'll work try Garrad/Gerry/Jerry/Gerald Moon at Montes Eqpmt, NW of Chicago, longtime obsolete Cont'l dealers ..garradmoon@montes@flash.net or montesequipment.com.. (4) P A Ross Machinery in Dallas, longtime Cont'l engine dealer, has been mentioned as helpful with old obsoletes (5) Haven't gotten to the Cont'l forum here yet; if not already on it, post which engine you have there too...

Ag eqpmt has a continuing problem with manifolds ---apparently because of off-and-on operation and mice loving manifolds for nesting, their urine being very corrosive... If you're seriously considering welding your manifold, you might check some of the Ag sites for shops that do a lot of it, as in JVP's post above...,,,

Std Cat mentions this engine, designed by Scripps=Booth, as an L-head 31/4 x 5, but refers to later Scripps-Booth cars using a Ferro V8... Without wading through Scripps-Booth early history, does anyone here know if this first V8 was used in anything else?? Many thanks for any comments...

Dealing with these old catalogs has generated a lot of sympathy for parts people... That 36 King Prod catalog has a specs section ES1---Diam of socket thread 7/8 (.875) x 18NF; Diam of ball 1"; High/Low diam of taper .750/.649, length of taper 13/16 ).8125) thread size od stud 9/16 (.5625)-18... Sadly, no specs were listed for anything after ES49... I mis-spent a couple years of my youth in replacement parts, and can attest replacement parts companies did provide parts that'd been tweaked to fit several installations (but possibly none exactly as OE) yet close enough to be used safely etc, rather than have to stock endless varieties...

SPINNEYHILL----I'm not doing well on the Reo, either...I have two choices, all agreeing in my 36 and 40 Kings and the 41 NcQuay-Norris (all same format, came part #s)... 31-32 Six, S, 621 6cyl; 821,825,831,835 8cyl their ES1 32-34 Flying cloud S, 38, Royale 75 (all 6s) theirES56 The ES 56 seems to fit others in your column of users, but under a different number (RS26)and I note you headed the list 33-35 (I did not compare specs)... The ES1 shows an array of orphans, incl Auburn and Peerless, late 20s/early 30s, incl a raft of Reos/Reo trks 27-32. These may be hard to find if all snapped up by Auburn and Peerless collectors... All three catalogs note the ES1 sockets and the ET1 intermediate rod MUST BE INSTALLED TOGETHER (NOT required for ES56)... While I don't really think that my catalogs disagree more than they agree, it happens all too often...

We of a certain age find it in archaic assemblies of the printed page, called catalogs (as SP mentioned above) and books...heavy to store and pack around, but wonderful for exercise, and they can't be hacked and diddled by someone having electronic fun...(that's the good part)... Alas, they do have their idiosyncrasies...one being they don't always agree... April 1940 King Products lists 33-36 var models incl LC/LCX 1/2T, their ES35 ends, no "intermediate rod" (which I assume is the tie rod itself??) listed (unusual)... May 1941 McQuay-Norris lists 1936 All LC/LCX series, 1/2T, (by themselves) their ES57, intermediate rod ET6.. THESE TWO CATALOGS USE THE SAME FORMAT, SAME PART NUMBERS, AND'VE ALWAYS AGREED EXACTLY-----until now.... Only my 36 King has numerical indexes;it shows ET6---var Chryslers 30-33, Dodge 35-36 DU, D2, var Dodge Trks 33-35, incl "1/2T" (BUT NOT 36 LC/LCX OR 1/2T), some Graham-Paiges, some IH trks and Plymouth PJ, P1, P2 35-36... ES35 shows long list CCptn models ranging 31-36... ES57---oops; 36 catalog ends at ES56!!! (Immaterial as you have sockets aleady)... I don't follow CCptn so don't know why discrepancy...

Concur that's way way too much oil depletion for burning in comb chambers or exhaust without having real billows of oil smoke out behind you... Assuming you're not leaking it out (no puddles in the driveway?? look at the underside behind the motor; don't be surprised if you find your oil liberally coating everything).. As recommended above, sounds like a prime candidate for opening up... If you replace rings, at least carefully check the bearings; if they have any slack at all putting in new rings=more downward force on bearings, and if slack they'll get very slack very quickly..., Forgot these are (in)famous for disgorging the first quart of oil...before disemboweling, if no visible substantial leak(s), try running one quart low to see if reduces consumption...

Without reviewing whole thread, the "jump in cold car, bound down highway=no appreciable loss, while jump in car, tootle around doing errands =loss, does sound like something cracked, or not sealed, when all cold/contracted, that expands, sealing itself up, when mass of engine/head hot/expanded (already included in speculations above) ... May well require pulling head to find... personally, I'd be inclined ti try stop leak first, in hope will seal during moderate temp periods (cold enough to leak but warm enough for sealer to bond)...

Does yours have the little stub gearshift coming out of the dash??? Had a 4dr in years past; had two vacuum units running the shifters; had to remember to leave it in neutral in the winter as the little shifter diaphragms'd freeze and the car wouldn't start in gear... Nice solid sedan; sweet runner...haven't thought about it for some time; where do the years go?...

Interesting point---somewhere online is a fascinating piece about possible alternative firing orders, but all I find in my notes is one small note, that late 1920s Buick 6s were 1-4-2-6-3-5, and that Wisconsin water cooled truck/ind'l 6s were the same... Can't comment re' the Buick, but have a little Thonpson "manual" (more like a pamphlet) that verifies the Wisconsins...

I'm inclined to a head gasket leak, unless this has some modern/exotic plumbing I'm not familiar with where coolants getting in... On the stop leak, in my jalopy days we lived on stop leak and block seal, and while I remember people saying it'd stop up the radiator instead of the leak, can't recall ever having such problems---that being said, radiators, main and/or heater, may be quite different designs now...

(Sigh) Offline for a bit, noticing changes in format... One thing I miss is the little few words of last posts in the Orphan Cars forums...I don't have the time (or energy) to open each forum, so scanned those "teasers" for anything interesting I might be able to help with or learn from... Oh, well--in the beginning was the word, and the word was "adapt"......

Posting in another forum reminded me not everyone familiar with fact that many of the old auto/truck/ag trade journals ( Horseless Age, Motor, ATD and ATJ, Commercial Car Journal, The Commercial Vehicle, The Motor Truck ad nauseum) are available in full view on hathitrust, and are searchable for words or combinations of words...nice for searching things like Sterling Motor Co, Detroit... Many later issues of same or later journals are also available on a limited basis that I'm not familiar with...

Interesting...my 36 King Prod catalog lists just as above, except the ET40 is also listed for that 33 Buick 3350 to that frame number, and shows the Huoo fit as 34 models 417W and 421J...

You didn't say whether finding a casting was mandatory (no pump, shattered pump) or whether parts'd be sufficient for a rebuild...yes, I saw "...looking for a pump..." but that doesn't preclude considering a rebuild (cost etc)... The March 36 (the same numbers/format repeated in May 1941 McQuay-Norris catalog) shows the up to #4075 shaft, impeller (blank for front busing) rear bushing, packing nut, packing unit, and "M" parts (woodruff key, impeller pin) were used on total runs of four Cont'ls and partial runs of three others besides yours.... After 4076 the shaft is only listed with Cont'l 11E and 18E.. Probably no help if it's the casting that's needed These catalogs are sometimes hilarious___"...to eng #4075...", followed by "...after # 4076..." techicaly (gtammatically??) leaving out #4076....

My catalogs don't show Peerless water pumps, but, FWIW, under Cont'l 11E it shows a change t engine #4075... To 4075 it lists a number of other Cont'ls and a batch of Reo cars/tks for the shaft, impeller and bushings... After #4075 it lists the same shaft, blank for the impeller and bushings, and lists different packing nut and complete packing unit...... Maybe the Peerless people will know if Peerless used own punp or the Cont'l pump Catalog doesn't show any complete pumps, only parts....

In cleaning the points and the tip of the rotor don't forget the spark plug wire contacts both inside and outside the dist cap... And if you have one of the Lycoming motors, probably K or KB, treat it carefully; Lyc parts, reportedly, are quite difficutl to find...

(1) Bloo---how far afield can you go on weight (lighter pistons, easier on bearings) without considering balance problems?? (2) rcull---if you've looked for NOS/NORS pistons, are you aware your pistons came in models up to 1940 and possibly later (1940 catalog listing)? That catalog shows a piston change in 1937----"oldstyle engines" 1934-36, change 1937 for 37-40 engines...

Hey, y'all---I've finally perfected mu Perpetual Motion machine, now all I need is a little money to develop perpetual bearings to tun it on...

UPDATE---Those Timken axles noted above were (per that incomplete catalog) also used in some 20-25 Paige and the 16-19 #56 8cyl Peerless cars, AND some 19 or so truck makes (looks like 3/4 to 11/2 ton models)... The HET people should have a catalog that covers 1915; you might have a similar situation, and might find some by posting the Timken axle number...

Just out of curiosity looked in an old catalog---it only went back to 1917, but it noted : "1917-24 Super Six (apparently to #526857) use bolts and bushings listed under Timken Axle 1216, 1218, 1250'.. If your 1915 used a Timken, and you prefer OE or NOS, your Timken axle might've been used in other then popular makes as well as Hudson, so you can broaden your search... Again out of curiosity, eyeballing that catalog finds those three listed for 1924 Armleder, 24-27 Chicago, 23-27 Cl,inton and 26-29 Clydesdale 1-11/2 Ton trucks, implying your axle, if Timken, also might've widely used...

Without looking up pix I'd GUESS that one was late 30s, with that squinty little windshield, but I'm gueessing...

Reading thru a thread here that includes tracing the history of a vehicle triggered a faint memory from my brief old-car owning days... We'd acquired a 32 Hupp, and I dimly recall looking thru some very large, heavy and thick books---but I can't recall if we were looking for past registration info or for other Hupp owners at that time...and the name R L Polk & Co comes to mind... Google (Wiki) says Polk began issuing passenger car registration books in 1922, the first volume covering 58 makes and 9 million+ cars---are these any good for tracing the registrations of a particular car???

Goo luck with a Diamond T pickup parts unit; these are considered highly desirable (mouth watering) units by truck collectors... Last time I tried diamondtclassics it seemed moribund, if not deceased, but I believe there's a facebook or such group ongoing that should come up on Google... This should really be in the Commercial vehicles section here, but that section doesn't get a lot of traffic compared to here; you might put a note there to please see this post... If nothing turns up here you might try posting on aths and justoldtrucks; both are heavily into later stuff but some older and many DiamondT guys there... The Antq car/trk forum on smokstak is also a good place for older stuff. justoldtrucks has a list of obsolete/NLA parts suppliers in their Vendors and Restoration Services section that might include a front end outfit. Google will probably bring some up.....