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Bud Tierney

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Everything posted by Bud Tierney

  1. Ahhh, many thxx!! Presumably production stopped when Hinkley Motors expired. Any idea if any good when new?? Tried Googling, but all I got was lingerie and some performing group... Just idle curiosity on my part; I've never evem driven a Model T, so don't need one. Again, many thxx!!
  2. (Sorry, no link) In 1923 or 24 Hinkley Motor Co, a truck/bus engine producer, announced a plan to refurbish Fords under the HIMICO brand name... The project included an engine rebuild kit (modernising and increasing power) and the replament of the original trans with a conventional clutch and trans package.. Work could be dome locally with purchase of the whole kit, or the original engine etc could be sent to the Hinkley factory, I believe the one in Ecourse, for the work... Is this something known in the plethora of Ford modification projects?? Hinkley Motors died i
  3. Ahhh, another illusion shattered---I'd always assumed Haynes were very popular, but find sparse listings in my old catalogs; odd since an early 00s to 1923/24 run was no small feat in those days of cars that disappeared as quickly as they appeared... My edition of Std Cat doesn't mention a model 50, and only one of my catalogs does, but doesn't specify year. I do find a June 1920 squib saying Elwood was introducing a new line "lenghend to 132" WB, which WB was continued thru 1923 per Std Cat. It's probably safe to assume all the 132s used the same wheels. Any of the interchange manua
  4. Whenever I hear of these cases they a;ways remind me of the Tulip Craze and, what was it , the South Seas bubble?? etc, etc,...
  5. Welcome to the research world, an all too often a necessary endeavor when restoring... Let's start with basics...did Haynes build its own wheels?? (the Club will know and should e able to tell you if any are around and/or used on other cars... If a vendor wheel, it may've been used on other cars of the period or several years Haynes production may;ve had the same wheels, possibly broadening your search... Google should give you several profe$$ional obsolete parts dealers who stock wheels...see?? it's like that: you just become a kind of detective, siting late at night, in the li
  6. Geez, Vince, c'mon....you work at a restoration shop that didn't know the HET Club existed, or didn't want to contact it?? No one was born knowing everything; there's no shame in not being able to figure out something you're not familiar with...we all have to ask questions... I do hope trying to muddle through is not usual shop practice....
  7. Agree with Teerry does sound much more like connection problems into starter than actual internal starter problem...
  8. Reo may've purchased vendor wheels; the Club would know... I note the comment the wheels were a weak spot; I was wondering how they got like that in only five years,,,
  9. Concur should not feel anything from cap or wires... Same shock from wires as from cap, or lesser?? If wire shock from just one wire check connection area for the crack... Suspect tiny crack in cap (assuming its pristine clean in and out) and current travelling wire or wires, which should not happen itself...anything spilled on wires before/during installation that could be conductor??
  10. FWIW, "leads appreciated" implies these're not lying around everywhere...of you have one, it might be helpful to post its ID. If you've none, maybe a helpful soul'll post what.s on theirs...
  11. A 56 Filco truck and bus catalog lists GCO 4801A to D, GCO 4802A to c (which take same points and CE bushing) and GCO4803A to 8A, which take different points but same bushing...both sets of points are either common or Filko has "universal" sets... My 36-49 Motor cars manual lists a raft of GCOs, including 4801B anC, 4802, 4802A to C...don't know if any of those are close enough to have the same parts you need and/or be a drop-in replacement for yours.;..
  12. A couple basic points we learned, mostly the hard way, tears ago, and probably useful no matter where you are..... (1) ask around about local DMV offices; different offices may have reputations for being helpul or difficult... (2) remember THEY have thew power here, not you...being right is immaterial if you allow yourself to upset your DNV clerk. Grind your teeth and remain pleasant (3) as stressed above, do all your homework; the less problems to be solved the better chances you'll have...
  13. 1918 is just out of range of my catalog listings, but possibilities are the N-NA the V4 ot thr V7, all solid heads (no cyl head)... I've never built up a pix file, so I'm assuming that's a headless; can anyone read anything like a model designation on the tag, or advise whether it's headless or not??
  14. Oh, please...mo one with any feeling at all for old paper ever "cuts out" an ad...one gingerly removes the staples, especially carefully if they've rusted, then removes the ad page from the two page section...if a glued backing, one breaks the backing between unwanted pages, then into smaller sections until the ad pages wanted can be removed undamaged... And, yes, keeping the whole mag is nice...but old paper is HEAVY, and soon requires reinforcing the floor or reducing living space... While my own collecting days are long behind me. I keep a few leftovers in my desk for memoriesof t
  15. While I've never followed Locomobile, I understand they built engines and transmissions in-house... Assuming you've asked the Club about any references to Loco selling some of the transmissions to other builders, and/or whether yours was copied from a vendors model ( or whether a vendor might've copied from Loco's design) that was close enough to substitute, you might consider posting a pic of what you're looking for and/or or whatever's cast or stamped on the outside... Someone with a pile of old transmissions out back might go out and take a look, just in case.....
  16. Whatever the Average Value for one in this state (not running) it will be considerably increased if it can be resurrected into running condition (engine) or, better, moving itself(a little) or even around the yard... Do contact the oldihs people for advice before putting in any time or money......Good luck!!
  17. Pressure system?? Had a little Ford---overheated slowly---did EVERYTHING but pull the engine apart...complete mystery.. One day, puzzling over it, dropped pretty like-new radiator cap on street---rust fell out---new cap, m,ystery so;ved!!
  18. You almost certainly have a KB (the series ran K-KA-KB-KC-KM=KN, all apparently 31/2x5) and was a quite popular series judging by the list of makes using in a 1930 catalog... I'm assuming you're on some of the IH websites ---oldihc is the only one I'm familiar with---other IH Lyc owners will be a good source of info re parts, or the lack thereof,,,..names listed that have clubs I know of are Elcar and Gardner, altho Crow-Elkhart and Dort are possibles...among the trucks lots of orphans, but there's Fageol that has a website... Lyc parts are reportedly not that easy to find, so be p
  19. As a long shot try binderbooks.com, who supposedly have manuals for everything IH produced... More practically, are there any cast/embossed/stamped numbers or letters on the engine?? D'you have it apart, know the bore/stroke?? Post any ID numbers on starter, gen, carb as they could help ID engine... If engine has any C- numbers/letters do not touch oil pump as it may be a C-series (C--CE-CF-CH-CT) some of which used a potmetal disintegrating oil pump... You might also send pix/info to the Gardner Auto club; Gardners used Lycs and may be able to ID for you; they also ha
  20. So far so good on the mag---the N=NA was very popolar, so should be owners around to let you know what mag's on theirs--- The N/NA was issued in two bores---31/2 and 33/4---but the 33/4 one is apparently the mostly used truck engine; don't know if they came with different mags... Suggest you make a new post---looking for mag for Cont'l N-NA 33/4 bore---should turn up help... OGood luck!!ne of the vintage electrical parts dealers may have books specifying which you need or what will work...
  21. For your mag it might help to ID your Cont'l---looks like if original should be "N", often listed as "N-NA" in catalogs...(NA MIGHT'VE been Unit Power Plant (Eng/clutch/trans together, usually bolted but occasionally with one casting)... .00PS---watch it---looks like there was an 11X 2Ton with a different engine...
  22. Tried to post a reply to your PM, but either system or my set acting up, don't know if it went thru... If not, contact me by email (click on my name on post, email will come up)... That C has a tangled history; just ran across a 1912 piece where Cont'ls listing the C as both the 4s and now two 6s as well My only source that lists Moon 1910-11 etc ( a 1917 ring catalog) doesn't list the C, but a larger D, but old parts catalogs are never complete, and if Cont'l had an emergency order from Moon they probably sent whatever was available that could fit in... Another oddity:
  23. John: Fascinating reply----caps are one of those things that turn into unobtainium I''m ' sure many here, besides myself, would like to hear more about the process and costs.. By full set I assume you mean spares for sale/trade?? I'm not in the market, just curious if another old bugaboo's been cured by progress...
  24. Horizontal opposed engines are not my interest, but've noted their bore usually wider than stroke is long (31/2x3 etc), while verticals are usually the opposite (3x31/2 etc) .. Is this because of some engine physics property?? Many thxx for satisfying my idle curiosity...
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