rocken
-
Posts
39 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by rocken
-
-
I'm working on a 55 Belvedere conv. and need to replace the rear axle seals. Looking for advice on how to. Not sure if both inner and outer need to be done, but would guess so since gear oil is getting out. They appear to be fairly new seals as the car was restored several years ago but very rarely driven, possibly why they are leaking. Any help will be greatly
appreciated!
Thanks!
-
Hi Lew,
Put the wheel on, and I am able to move the wheel fore and aft, just a little harder than I think it should be. Might be that it has not been used for a long time. The collar travels about 3/4", not the wheel. Thanks for all your help!
Ken
-
Hi Lew,
Not really sure I need to remove the collar. I thought that by turning it that would move the wheel in and out. Guess that just loosens and tightens. When I turn the collar, it will travel about 3/4 of an inch in and out, not sure that is correct. I will reinstall the wheel tomorrow and try moving it in and out. I'm working on the car for a friend, so lots of unfamiliar things!
Thanks!
Ken
-
Working on a 57 T Bird. The steering wheel adjuster collar has a small set screw that I assume is supposed to tighten to something in the column. The screw is frozen, and will not turn despite being soaked with PB Blaster for two days. The collar just turns and goes up and down the column, but the wheel does not move in or out. I tried to drill the screw in hopes of using an easy out or just retaping to a different size, but it must be a hardened screw as the drill bit won't even touch it. What is the correct way to remove the collar so I can take it to my machinist friend and have him remove the screw? Thanks for any insight!
Ken
-
Hi Lew,
No rewiring or firewall cover replacement at this time, not that it couldn't use it!
Thanks again!
Ken
-
Hi Lew, Guess I'm not sure how it is supposed to work. It turns quite a bit in and out or forward and back, probably not explaining correctly. Turns a lot, but I was expecting the wheel to move forward or back. Found out today that you are supposed to push or pull the wheel, guess I'm not smart enough to figure that one out, however the wheel is off now to give me a little more room to get under the dash, so once it is back on, I'll try again.
By the way, I did get the trunk open. Seems whoever installed the latch assembly on the lid dropped a washer and left it and it worked its way in there and prevented things from working as they should. Works good now!
Thanks for all your help!
Ken
-
Working on a 57 T Bird. The steering wheel adjuster collar has a small set screw that I assume is supposed to tighten to something in the column. The screw is frozen, and will not turn despite being soaked with PB Blaster for two days. The collar just turns and goes up and down the column, but the wheel does not move in or out. I tried to drill the screw in hopes of using an easy out or just retaping to a different size, but it must be a hardened screw as the drill bit won't even touch it. What is the correct way to remove the collar so I can take it to my machinist friend and have him remove the screw? Thanks for any insight!
Ken
-
Thanks Lew. It has the soft top, waiting for some help to remove the hard top. Once that is done, I'll attempt to crawl in. Seat will not move either direction, may remove it anyway as I have some work to do under the dash. The seat is bolted from underneath, isn't it?
Thanks! Ken
-
Working on a 57 T Bird. Key for trunk lock just turns round and round. Would I be successful opening the trunk by drilling the cylinder out, or should I remove the hardtop and try getting into the trunk that way? Just wondering the best approach. Thanks for any help!
Ken
-
Thank you for the info. I found a 54 that a friend has that he hopes someday to get running. He let me remove the linkage from it and I'll see if I can have one of my machinist friends make something similar. the only difference that I found is that the rod to the gas pedal bellcrank appears to be too long.. All the other parts are there. Looks like all I need are the 3 rods. I'll get a picture tomorrow.
The intake was off the 324, as was the carb, so no problems there. Yes it is the Hydramatic.
Thanks again!
Ken
Finally got some pictures. Hope you agree that all I need are the 3 rods. Those are being made.
-
Thank you for the info. I found a 54 that a friend has that he hopes someday to get running. He let me remove the linkage from it and I'll see if I can have one of my machinist friends make something similar. the only difference that I found is that the rod to the gas pedal bellcrank appears to be too long.. All the other parts are there. Looks like all I need are the 3 rods. I'll get a picture tomorrow.
The intake was off the 324, as was the carb, so no problems there. Yes it is the Hydramatic.
Thanks again!
Ken
-
I am working on a 1951 Olds Super 88 that has a 1954 324 cu in. engine. It had a 3 x 2 setup on it but the owner wanted to go back to the original 2 barrel manifold which he had along with the carb. However, none of the linkage came with it. I don't know if it is possible to fabricate something that would work or not, but I would like some pictures to see what it is like. Or, if someone has any for sale, that would be great! There must be two rods I'm guessing, one to the carb, and one for the transmission kickdown. Any help is greatly appreciated!!
Thanks, Ken
-
Thanks, but Steele does not list any pads for a Monterey.
-
Working on a 55 Monterey, and need some outside door handle pads. Anyone know of a source? I tried ones for a Montclair, and cut a little off, but I am not happy with the fit. Biggest problem is that when the car was repainted about 30 years ago they masked around them instead or removing the handles, and the Montclair pads do not cover enough.
Appreciate any ideas or a source.
Thanks!
Ken
-
Thanks guys! I told the owner that it will be at least two months before I can work him in, realistically longer than that. Rhode Island Wiring does not list anything for an 88, so looks like YNZ unless someone has another recommendation.
-
Thanks! I'll check into that. I also am looking at YNZ .
-
One of the next projects coming to the shop is a stock 1951 Olds 88. It has the original wiring, and it is falling apart. Does anyone have a recommendation as to where to purchase a replacement. Want the original looking fabric insulation. Thanks!!
Ken
-
No part number on the original. Got replacement from Fusick, tried to install today. Seem to be a little bit too big. Will try again tomorrow.
-
Thanks, just posted there.
-
We have a bearing supply store in town, but a pretty good bet they would not have any like these. They are not like a later model seal. If you go to Fusick, and look them up, there is a good picture of one. Got them out today, but they put up a good fight! Pretty sure they were the originals as the sealing part was more like felt.
-
Guess I should add that the alternator is mounted on the drivers side. I will get some pictures tomorrow.
-
Working on a 54 Olds 88 with stock engine with the exception of three two intake. Owner has converted to a alternator, but is not happy with the way it fits, alignment, adjustability. He had a custom bracket made for the intake, but the bracket that was made to adjust the alternator isn't really working well. What I am wondering is,has anyone come up with a good solution for mounting an alternator on the stock engine. I've searched the web for brackets, but haven't found anything that would work.
Thanks!
-
Thanks, kind of what I thought, but better to ask first. Will have to order the seals, parts store doesn't list them.
Thanks !
-
1
-
-
Working on a 54 Olds 88, and the rear axle seal is leaking. Wondering if there is anything special about pulling the axle and replacing the seal.
Thanks!
1955 Belvedere rear axle seals
in Plymouth
Posted
Thanks, yes, the drums are off. Looks like 5 bolts hold a plate on and a seal behind the plate. Hopefully I will have time this weekend to work on it. I have a 1955 Motors manual but it doesn't have much about seal replacement. Guess I'll find out!
Thanks again!