Jump to content

rocken

Members
  • Posts

    24
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by rocken

  1. Thanks guys! I told the owner that it will be at least two months before I can work him in, realistically longer than that. Rhode Island Wiring does not list anything for an 88, so looks like YNZ unless someone has another recommendation.
  2. Thanks! I'll check into that. I also am looking at YNZ .
  3. One of the next projects coming to the shop is a stock 1951 Olds 88. It has the original wiring, and it is falling apart. Does anyone have a recommendation as to where to purchase a replacement. Want the original looking fabric insulation. Thanks!! Ken
  4. No part number on the original. Got replacement from Fusick, tried to install today. Seem to be a little bit too big. Will try again tomorrow.
  5. We have a bearing supply store in town, but a pretty good bet they would not have any like these. They are not like a later model seal. If you go to Fusick, and look them up, there is a good picture of one. Got them out today, but they put up a good fight! Pretty sure they were the originals as the sealing part was more like felt.
  6. Guess I should add that the alternator is mounted on the drivers side. I will get some pictures tomorrow.
  7. Working on a 54 Olds 88 with stock engine with the exception of three two intake. Owner has converted to a alternator, but is not happy with the way it fits, alignment, adjustability. He had a custom bracket made for the intake, but the bracket that was made to adjust the alternator isn't really working well. What I am wondering is,has anyone come up with a good solution for mounting an alternator on the stock engine. I've searched the web for brackets, but haven't found anything that would work. Thanks!
  8. Thanks, kind of what I thought, but better to ask first. Will have to order the seals, parts store doesn't list them. Thanks !
  9. Working on a 54 Olds 88, and the rear axle seal is leaking. Wondering if there is anything special about pulling the axle and replacing the seal. Thanks!
  10. Thank you for the reply. I agree that there is something suspicion about the switch. Do you have someone you would recommend for repair? I have not been in contact with any Skylark group. Would you have a recommendation there? I did a quick search on the internet, but didn't find one that seemed to specialize in the older Skylark. Also did a search of the part number, but nothing there. Thanks again for your help! Ken
  11. Sorry for the confusion, there are no motors under the seat, only two hydraulic hydraulic cylinders. They work as you described. Sorry I can't provide a picture. The owner took the car home yesterday to beat the snow. I think the switch is the problem, I am a little hesitant to take it apart but since it doesn't work anyway, I may as well. I have been looking for a switch, but the only ones I find are the ones that would plug in to a plug that would match the wiring diagram. Thank you for all your help! I will probably take the switch apart and see if there is anything I can repair, and continue to search for a replacement. I am also trying to find the correct carpet. Will continue next spring when the owner returns from Florida. Thanks again! Ken
  12. Here is a pic. of the front of the switch. The cylinders under the seat will click. If I am testing the switch the way I think it should work, it is not working. I put 12V on the feed ( center pole ) and moved the knob one way, and have power, the other way, nothing. move to the up position and have power, move to the down position, have power also. I'm not convinced this is even the correct switch for the car. The solder on the bottom looks like someone was trying to make it work for this seat. The owner said the seat has never worked since he has owned the car. It was not plugged in when it came to me. He has owned the car about 6 years. Was supposed to have had a complete restoration when he bought it.
  13. Thanks John, just double checked, and they are all tight. The plug will fit either way, and one way only the motor will work for forward/ back, and the other way only the cylinders will click.
  14. Here are some more pics. Maybe they will help. I have no idea what the soldering is about!
  15. There are two. I can adjust the seat up and down and forward and back by using jumper wires in the plug contacts, but not with the switch. I am thinking that either the switch is wrong or the plug. There are only four wires, a pink, orange, orange with black tracer in the plug, and a separate single orange. The wiring diagram shows five,and colors don't completely match. I'll get some more pictures tomorrow. Thanks!
  16. Found a diagram on Hometown Buicks web site, but the plug in the car does not match the one on the web. I can get a picture of it tomorrow. There are 3 wires on a plug, and one separate wire that is for the up / down.
  17. I am working on a 54 Skylark convertible for a friend, and the power seat does not work when using the switch. I can remove the switch plug, use some jumpers and make the seat work. I sent the switch to Hydro-E-Lectric under the impression that they could repair it. They called after receiving the switch and said that they do not repair them, but checked it , and that it was good. I received it today, and plugged it in, and it still does not operate the seat. Does anyone have a wiring diagram of the plug? Maybe someone at one time put the wires in the plug in the wrong spot. Also, someone has done some soldering on the back side, and maybe added some copper (see pic.) or is the copper supposed to be there? Any help with this would be greatly appreciated!
  18. Thanks to all !! Shop manual is on the way. I will get the leak stopped first and then use whatever fluid the owner wants. I'm guessing at least a gallon do do the job? Thanks again!
  19. Thanks for the replies! What is the best way to remove the brake fluid? I really don't want to remove every line. Can alcohol be put in the reservoir and pumped through the system? Will any traces of brake fluid mix with the ATF? Thanks again!
  20. I am working on a 54 Skylark convertible, and have one top cylinder leaking. Whoever did the restoration used hard line with some curly cues to allow for movement, and it appears that one of the flares did not seal. I would think that there should be flexible lines off the cylinders instead of hard line all the way to the distribution block. If anyone has pictures, I would love to see how it should be done. Also the power seat does not operate. I can hear a thump, but no movement. Anyone have experience with the seat cylinders? Are there reproductions available, or suggestions as where to have them repaired? I do not have a shop manual, but if that system is covered in it, I will get one. Any and all help will be greatly appreciated!! Also, the system is currently filled with brake fluid, any suggestions on keeping that, or converting to hydraulic fluid or transmission fluid? What is the best way to flush the system if converting? Thanks again!
  21. Tedd, After more research, I found a small thin ground embedded in the rubber. Same thing, no contact, so I soldered it. Hope it holds, cause it looks like the bumper would have to come off to remove the guards to get at the license plate housings. Either that or someone with real small hands! Thanks!! Ken
  22. Glenn, Thanks for the info! I thought that was the way it should be connected, but since it wasn't connected anywhere, ya never know. As for the lights, yes they are in the guards, but are incased in rubber! If I touch a ground to the socket, they will light. The rubber looks like something that could have been factory, but not being grounded makes no sense! Thanks again! Ken
  23. I am working on a 54 Olds 88 with power brakes(treadle vac) there is a valve located in the vacuum line going to the vacuum reservoir that has an electrical connection on it, does anyone know where it should be connected at the other end? Should it be hot with the key on? or only when the brake lights are on? Also the license plate lights do not work. After investigating, the bulb sockets are mounted in a rubber gasket, looks original, how are they supposed to be grounded? Any help is appreciated!!
×
×
  • Create New...