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Posts posted by MarrsCars

  1. Thanks to all, in the end I decided to forgo any chance of problems for any future buyers and simple had a new VIN inspection done to correct the title to reflect the Serial Number as stamped. Was no problem to have done. I did find out that the dealer I bought the car from about 8-years ago put three different VIN numbers on the various paperwork and did his own VIN inspection. They entered plenty of notes on the correction so everything is good now. 


    i will say that the DMV still suggested I leave it alone as it was acceptable in Oregon and oddly California, but that just doesn't carry weight in most other states. The ways we do things out here in the Wild Wild West doesn't always translate in the more "by the books" states. 

  2. On 9/16/2019 at 10:06 AM, Vila said:

    If your state accepts it as is then what's the issue?



    An out of state buyer who was very interested and even paid for an inspection walked away because the VIN on the title didn't match the Chassis number that is used as a serial number/VIN on vintage Mercedes cars. I want to avoid that if another out-of-state buyer is interested. I've been told both that it will be no problem, and also that it would be a huge problem, if a buyer in another state tried to register it there and the VIN on the title doesn't actually appear on the car anywhere. 

    To reiterate, the VIN on the title is made up from the model number and the last half of the serial number that's stamped on the core support plate. 

  3. 15 hours ago, ejboyd5 said:

    There is so much idle speculation in some of these responses that providing sound counsel is difficult. Prior to our current VIN system many cars were registered/titled with many different combinations of numbers including engine number(very popular), body number, construed combinations (such as offered by the OP) or even the full chassis number.  To be considerate of your heirs, or even of yourself if you think you might sell the car during your lifetime, it would behoove you to contact your state's DMV (or equivalent) and inquire about what is necessary to correct an identification number.  This will usually require a personal inspection by a DMV inspector or member of the state police, but if your documents are in order a new registration/title sporting the proper numbers will be quickly issued. Since you, not your wife, girlfriend, or children, know more about your car's history than anyone else, I urge you confront this task immediately.  If you don't, at the time of sale either the lawyer's fees will be huge to correct the title or the proceeds will be greatly reduced due to the numeric inconsistency. 


    This is closer to my thinking. Maybe the "VIN" is technically correct as listed but I want any future transactions to be trouble free. Thank you. 

  4. I have an odd situation, I own a '62 Mercedes-Benz coupe and while a potential buyer was looking it over noticed that the VIN number on the title is not the full serial number, but rather the first half of the model number and the last half of the serial number (Chassis number specifically as stamped on the metal data tag). It essentially looks like this "220se56789" when the serial number might read as "123456789." (Not the actual numbers, just an example.) Naturally, I assumed this was an input error at the DMV when I bought it several years ago so we pulled the car and I waited a week to hear from the Oregon DMV. The gentleman who helped me, also a vintage car owner, said that he sees this all the time and it's common, expected, and even said it's correct. He said pre-VIN cars often use the model number and the serial number for the title designation. He knew a lot about my car generally and even the locations of the tags, so he knows old cars to a degree at least. He said he sees this on all types of vintage cars, and further said do not change the title, it's correct as it is, and good luck with my sale. It just doesn't seem right tho? 


    Oddly he told me that the car has always had this as it's title number when the original owner in California had it, and when they sold it to the dealer here in Oregon that I bought it from, there was a VIN inspection done by the DMV as noted on his record. I have never heard of a Title VIN for a vintage car being listed with half model number and half serial number. Can anyone shed some light here? Also, how could this pass through the DMV, dealer, owner, and a VIN inspection if it is in fact incorrect? Can this guy be right? Thanks much, I just want this to get sorted before we offer it again so there's no delays for the eventual buyer or problems when he tries to register it.



  5. I'm a bit late to the conversation as always but this car is a legit 23-mile example (it was 22 but made some rounds of the local Forest Grove Concours d'Elegance) and the current owners are good friends of mine who also own Burback Motors, which is an indie shop specializing in Mercedes-Benz and they have done work on my '62 coupe. This was a family car that was inherited. It is really something to see, as said above the hubcaps have never been fitted and it even has a printed info card that's folded over one of the sun visors that even many Beetle experts have never seen before so it really is THE one to use for comparisons for a restoration. 

    Is $1-million too high? Some would say yes, I say no... just try to find another one. 

  6. 10 hours ago, harris speedster said:

    I have been working on the history of the AAA and SCCA organizations.


    By chance, whether it be as trade or whatever, do you have any 1950's items from the above.

    Thanks in advance,


    Hi, please send me a PM with your email address and we can discuss specifics. We likely don’t have AAA but very possibly have some SCCA as we do look for and buy those items often, but they tend to find homes quickly. I can also keep an eye out if you can tell me more what you’re seeking. 

  7. On 1/21/2018 at 4:24 AM, victorialynn2 said:

    Hey guys, I’m in McMinnville, Oregon, which is about an hour southwest of Portland. I’d be happy to help someone start a NW group. I could get a list of members and help put out the word to see if we can drum up enough members. I am sure we can! This is something I’ve been hoping would happen!  


    Let’s get a few of us in the NW that could work together and make this happen. Who is in?

    We could start perhaps by encouraging members to meet at Cars & Coffee down in Wilsonville each Saturday, or perhaps the Vintage Racing Festival at PIR, or Forest Grove Concours? I'm just thinking maybe if there is a standing event that would hold interest to AACA folks it would be a good way to meet & greet and get the ball rolling. I'm open to your ideas tho my time is limited to organize, I am interested to attend and perhaps even host as we have a property in the countryside outside of Portland near Oregon City with lots of space for parking cars on the lawn.


    15 hours ago, Marty Roth said:


    I understand that HCCA also has a well supported presence, and would hope that, as is currently being developed, that AACA, HCCA, CCCA, VMCCA, as well as Marque Clubs will expand their ways of not only working together, but will seek out ways to host National Events.


    Please keep me in the mix as time and events evolve!

    There are numerous amazing drives that could take place out here, and I definitely have seen motorcades of Pierce Arrows and Cadillacs sporting CCCA medallions, so there IS hope!

    As stated above, depending upon the scheduling, I could even host a gathering, or be a stopping point or catch up point, at our home outside of Portland in Oregon City. 


    3 hours ago, Mark Shaw said:


    I joined and attended several meetings with the "Rose City AACA", but found that most members only wanted to participate in judged shows and very few one day drives with their "old cars".  Most of the members have post war cars capable of freeway speeds, so my older slower cars were not a good fit.  I am not a show car guy.  I like to drive my cars and only show as "display only" when a car show is held in conjunction with a tour or other activity.  There are not enough members in the local club to host a tour or other significant event without joint participation from other car clubs.  We explored the possibility of hosting a joint tour with the much larger HCCA, but we couldn't agree on joint participation without a judged car show.  Therefore I did not renew my membership for this year. 


    I have a 1962 car but I very much enjoy being around the cars of the 20's and 30's just to learn more about them, I'm also not a "car show guy" and prefer non-judged gatherings (like the Vintage Racing Festival), so there are plenty of us around who just want to drive, hang out, chat, and eat together. 

    • Like 1
  8. On 1/20/2018 at 1:52 PM, John_S_in_Penna said:

    The list of regions in the national magazine

    shows not a single AACA region in Oregon.

    There are none in Idaho, either.

    There is one in the state of Washington:

    the Fort Vancouver-Rose City Region,

    whose president is in Washougal, Washington.


    I don't know how close you are to them, Bill,

    but at least it may be a start.

    This is the group I was referring to in my post, Vancouver (WA) is right across the river from Portland and we are the "Rose City" which is a long time nickname. Oddly I haven't even thought of them since I tried to meet up those years ago so it seems there is no real activity or presence, not even at our Historic Racing Festival which has a massive car show attached. 


    11 hours ago, C Carl said:

    HI Bill , and thank you for bringing this up. I am sometimes in Seattle , and sometimes Ellensburg. I wonder if we have a sufficient membership base , and population density to sustain ongoing club activities ? If the Vancouver - Portland region has very little activity , along with Trevor , I wonder what the explanation is. It certainly could be a critical mass problem , with a chicken and egg quandary.

    Man oh man Carl that is a sweet-looking machine, never get tired of the pics or stories! 

  9. On 1/21/2018 at 12:43 AM, Dave Mellor NJ said:

    The wrench in the second pic looks like VLCHeck, a common wrench. Many GM cars had them in the '30s.


    You nailed it on that one! Thanks!


    On 1/20/2018 at 6:35 PM, keiser31 said:

    Yes, the Merit tools I saw were those, but I think the one in question may be from the automobile. I believe they were built from 1920 to 1922.


    I do see a difference in the font between the brand "Merit" which is a bit more flowery and the sans serif font on my wrench so this could be a possibility. I think this is the only one that says Merit, and based on what Dave found above it seems this is a pieced-together set. 

  10. I picked up this old canvas and leather tool roll yesterday at a sale and was curious if anyone knows what car it might have gone with?


    The first two pics show close ups of a wrench marked “Merit” and a well-worn logo on what looks like a tappet wrench, but I can’t make it out, and others have part numbers.


    Any and all info appreciated! 











  11. When I first joined the club maybe 6-years ago I reached out to a local chapter that was listed and supposed to be the Portland region, but never got any sort of reply from them. I believe someone at HQ even did so on my bahalf but again with no response. They appeared to really only hold occasional meeting at one member’s home and no real events so I didn’t follow up.


    In order to find and commune with other car enthusiasts I tend to hang out with various local car clubs instead, specifically Lotus, Mercedes, British car clubs, and to some degree the Ferrari guys, and also events like Cars and Coffee so I still get a solid car guy experience up here in the PNW. I can’t offer any explanation why the local chapters are so dead, as you know there’s a massive “old car” hobby up here with out no-rust environment so it never made sense to me either. 

  12. We are seeking any vintage automobile memorabilia ranging from old shop coats & coveralls, car club Jackets, patches, plates, and rings, dealership displays or signs, and even old club or lodge rings, biker rings, etc. Prefer 1920's-60's. Condition doesn't always matter as some of our buyers like these things greasy or uncleaned. We are *not* seeking car parts or paper goods like brochures or catalogs, thank you. 

    Feel free to reach out with other items that may be of interest.

    Please send a PM and description and/or pics of what you have and your location. Thanks much!


    Here are examples of what we buy and collect:



    Screen Shot 2017-12-31 at 11.04.29 AM.png

    Screen Shot 2017-12-31 at 11.04.09 AM.png

    Screen Shot 2017-12-31 at 11.03.04 AM.png




    Screen Shot 2017-12-31 at 11.03.25 AM.png

  13. How beautiful and elegant! I was noticing this over the summer on I believe a Pierce Arrow and thought it was supplied that way, kinda like how Lexus made green/blue-hued lenses to stand apart about a decade ago.


    I wonder if this will become a desirable trait, much like how sun-faded Rolex and IWC watch dials are more sought-after by a subset of collectors over their pristine counterparts. 

  14. On 10/24/2017 at 3:26 PM, PFitz said:


    Just be careful with high concentrations  of ozone around anyone with respiratory problems.


    Very true Paul! One would ideally use these when you plan to be away from the area being treated for a few hours, then wait a short time before entering the room or driving a car that is full of ozone. Let it all settle out of the air. If you buy or rent one of these be sure to understand the instructions for use and safety notices for the device. 

  15. 56 minutes ago, 60FlatTop said:


    In any conversation, if the marque, Jaguar, comes up I never have a good thing to say about them. I have had 6. They catch fire, carburetors leak, a V12 tune up costs $2,000, they leave you stranded. Nope, they aren't worth much. Here's my number. Let me know if you hear of one coming up for sale.


    Always plan ahead.




    I believe you just coincidentally, yet perfectly, summed up my own Jaguar ownership experience. We wrote nearly the same thing, I just used a few hundred more words. http://oppositelock.kinja.com/the-worst-car-i-ever-owned-was-a-jaguar-xj6-472662007

  16. 3 hours ago, W_Higgins said:

    Get an ozone generator:




    After trying everything else on a car with a rodent problem that wouldn't go away, ozone solved it.  You could try every trick in the book, think you had it beat, and then the first time it was parked out in the sun it was like nothing at all was done.  I got one of these, sealed it up good, and let it soak a couple of days.  Problem solved.  Works wonders for all kinds of other things too, like musty books.  




    This exactly. I learned the trick from a crime scene cleaner fellow who we were filming for a documentary about his business. If they can remove the smell of a corpse they will get mildew out. I have personally used ozone generators for years and years on various smells in houses, basements, sheds, cars, etc. They are miracle machines for odor, even grease and smoke suspended in air to clear out a room quickly. 

  17. Crazy cool stuff! We happen across lots of early and odd auto accessories as part of our antiques business, but most get sold on to new owners and so I don’t mind the ethereal aspect of being a temporary curator.

    @Terry Bond Jason Torchinsky over at Jalopnik posted an entire article about the lighted hand signal you’ve got. I may need to let him know about the info you guys provided on this thread. 



  18. I watched two shows on my Amazon Prime membership last evening and think some of you would enjoy them also. They are both free to watch if you have a Prime membership.



    This one covers the rebuilding of Ettore Bugatti's crashed Royale, and goes into the history of the other cars only slightly, but it is a great watch as they depict the four bodies the car was utfitted with and then choose to resurrect it with an original, altered, Packard body just as Ettore fitted on the first attempt. This one has a couple of "really?" moments such as seeing one worker lay down lines of filler immediately cutting to a shot of the project leader stating "it must be 100% correct, it must be perfect."



    This one shows how the Mercedes-Benz Classic Center (Germany) built up a Streamliner based on the iconic 540k. Very cool, even with a couple of rather expressionless Germans thrown in for comic relief perhaps.


    I found these by looking at the suggested titles so go in and explore a bit and you might find something even better!

  19. On 10/18/2017 at 4:19 PM, alsancle said:


    Also just noticed the odd double whitewalls on the Duesenberg,especially noticeable on the pic I took from the linked article. It looks almost like those old add-on whitewalls, but then with another blackwall added on top of that?!?!


  20. 1 minute ago, alsancle said:

    Ok.  Now there are three guys on the island.  The Skipper,  Gilligan, Mr Owl?   We need to get Mary Ann and Ginger over here.

    But who's who? lol I'm guessing you're The Skipper for piloting us here. I nominate @victorialynn2 as her preferred character! Are you the farm girl or the movie star?

    • Haha 1
  21. 28 minutes ago, Bhigdog said:


    Thanks for that. Turns out one of my local stations sells E0 gas. A bit pricy. But since it's readily available and I really don't use that much for my other than daily drivers it makes sense for me to use it and not temp fate.................Bob



    That's an important observation, the cost is definitely higher. I pay at least $1 more here per gallon but it can be up to $1.75 more if I am not within range of my preferred station.

  22. On 10/10/2017 at 5:34 PM, tom61 said:

    -classics are much more reliable.

    Nowadays, cars are filled with plastic parts that easily brake and have an extremely low lifetime. Back in the day, car were built with top quality materials, and built to last. Cars came with thick impenetrable undercoat directly from the factory. With new cars, 1 winter is all it takes to turn the entire underbelly of a brand new car into a ball of rust.

    That being said, It is a nightmare dealing with rusty screws and rusty parts of new cars. A simple job can turn into a nightmare because of a lousy screw. It seems to me that manufacturers purposefully build parts that brake easily and don't last to oblige the driver to spend loads of money on new parts and services.


    -Classics are safer:

    For those that criticize old cars not having air bags, consider this: classics were made of solid thick metal, and moderns are made virtually entirely of plastic or thin sheet metal. Drive a dodge dart into a little honda and you'll see what happens....the classics drive out of an accident with a scratch on the bumper while the poor modern car is completely destroyed or cut in half. No doubt they rigidity of cars would have had the opposite effect in those days( accident between 2 classics) , but in the event of an accident, I much rather be inside the classic than the modern car.

    Just install good seat belts and your safe as can be.

    Great points but I do not agree at all with these two. Most older cars were built to last up to 100,000 miles if you are lucky without having to tear everything down and rebuild it. That's a huge generalization, but we're speaking generally here. Also, virtually allnew cars are galvanized, or dipped in primer baths, electrostatically primered/painted so every nook and cranny inside and out os covered and protected, while most old cars were simply sheet metal primed and painted with no protection if there's a chip or scratch and some, like old Mercedes, rust from the backside out as they are even less protected on the reverse of body panels.


    Safer? Not by a long shot. Air bags, antilock brakes, modern brake systems, tire contact patch sizes, acceleration, handling in sudden avoidance maneuvers, stability control, all make modern cars safer. Slightly thicker steel has virtually no bearing against crash level forces. I've seen countless photos of classics literally torn in half but this happens to modern cars only when it was a high speed incident usually. In a lower speed crash, the fact that an old car looks untouched while a modern one is smashed up is a visible testament to the effectiveness of energy absorbing crumple zones.


    I love my old Mercedes, even tho is has no air bags, no collapsible steering column, no radar road scanning system, no robot to rub my feet, but I would still never choose to be in any sort of accident in this car over even the most lowly of present-day Toyotas.


    Compare cabin deformation and ingress of engine/dash to the passenger cell in these videos:



    This one even compares similarly sized cars from 1997 and today:



    Not to argue your opinion, but clarity on safety matters, well, matters!

    • Like 3
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