65wildcatconvt

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About 65wildcatconvt

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  • Birthday 12/18/1963

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  1. this is a tough one- not sure if i would change the carb yet, if its squirting in gas it should fire maybe would run poorly i would double check points- are they dirty- correct gap-check with dwell meter if possible, and focus on maybe a weak spark or timing issue- check timing- any way the spark plug wires could have got crossed after it was running and died-
  2. alright hey thanks to everyone-- so much great info from everyone. the roads are solid salt up here still for about one more month and my car is up on blocks, so it is staying there until timing chain and tranny maintenance is done. im not saying i am buying from rock auto . com but do any of you guys have an opinion on what you would buy of the 3 chains offered... they are down to one gear so kind of wondering where to buy a decent set, brand name, etc... i will pick up a set as soon as i get my tax refund and will probably start another thread about doing a timing chain if that would be alright, i have a general idea but dont want to mess it up as i have not done one on this engine before.
  3. now when i first got the car it ran poorly, but after getting it home and getting it running strong, but before doing any metal work i ran into a problem. when acceleratng somewhat hard maybe half throttle or more, the car would have a shudder or almost felt like a wiggle to it. at first i thought - ujoimt or driveshaft carrier issue or what? it just felt weird... so when crawling around under the car i yanked and pulled on driveshaft, ujoints etc etc but everything seemed ok. so i just drove the car easy that first summer... well you guessed it but after fixing 4 rear body mounts, i took the car out in the spring of 2013 and lo and behold 75% of the shudder was gone... now it would only have a mild shudder under almost full throtle starts. so those rear body mounts were pretty much not mounting anything ha ha. the rest of the shudder was eliminated as i moved farther up the car the winter of 2013- 2014. will try and post those pics next.
  4. here is a pic of homeade body mount made from 1/4 inch angle steel and a pcs of plate first welded to it inside from the top. these are the pics i have not found yet so i apologize for the poor photos. basically i ran steel from the inside of the existing body brace after cutting out all weak metal. then followed the path to where the body mount connects to the inner rear fender if that makes any sense. after getting this far, i then realized i can make another pcs of plate to tack over the angle steel from underneath, and with patience and some grinding i can most likely make it look very similair to a body brace. the key thing for me is again, i can do that when free time comes up and car is still drivable. the silver paint is 2 year old rust bullet, but not painted heavily around body brace as i know i will be working on it more... any black paint is rustoleum spray satin black which is just sprayed over the rust bullet as time and money permit.
  5. ok - i took these pics this morning of work and paint done 2 years ago. this is a piece of steel welded over the rebuilt rear body mount. i sprayed some primer on it just to protect it as i want to go back and regrind some of my crappy welds when time permits, which is why i held off painting the entire trunk also. remember my main goal was to keep the car drivable in summer if possible, so may of 2013 after taking out gas tank, rebuilding 4 rear body mounts and painting the rear 1/3 of car, it started to get nice out so i stopped work, put painted gas tank back in and car was drivable over the summer. the gas tank will not have to be pulled again although there is some small cosmetic work to be done to make rear body mounts look better. its hard to see but the steel is butt welded and should blend in decent with a little more elbow grease, which i can do as time permits in warmer weather while car is still usable.
  6. here is a picture of what the car looks like generally underneath before painting but after many cold hours in winter lying on your back with a wire brush , drill with wire wheel and various scrapers and screwdrivers to try and clean off as much loose scale and loose rust as possible. but i always try and remember, "hey my labor is free" what else would i be doing? maybe getting into trouble. this is a pic taken more towards the front of the car this morning so you can hopefully see what it looks like before and after paint. tools used on whole project are wire feed welder, cheap 29 dollar jig saw, cheap 29 dollar electric cut-off tool and common hand tools. as you clean and poke around like a dentist, you can find any weak spots and mark them to cut out if new metal needed. the front half of the car seems to be in somewhat better shape than the rear... this is really solid and pretty clean by up north standards for 50 years old.
  7. thank you guys for the comments and encouragement... i am a little angry at myself today as i took a bunch of pics when i was doing this work 2 years ago now, and for the life of me i cant find one of the camera cards some of the pics are on. i snapped a few this morning to try and show a little work and will continue to look for the card... here is a pic of the duluth mn - superior wisconsin harbor on my morning commute- 20 below this morning that is lake superior off in the distance frozen about 20 miles out also have been busy cutting firewood. i heat house pretty much exclusivly with wood. use around 5 to 7 cords a year. it must be split and put in woodshed by spring to dry over the summer for next winter. house is much warmer and nicer with giant used windows in, more insulation and new vinyl siding.
  8. back to buicks- i decided to start at the back of the car and work my way forward winter of 2012-2013 so i removed the gas tank and started to see what was what- this was the worst rust i had to deal with... PLEASE keep in mind i am not or have ever been a body man, a welder or whatever... i work in a warehouse, same one last 32 years and have done mechanical work but never any body work so my results are far from what many achieve on this forum. but maybe i can give some hope to the guy that is on a super low budget and may not have any skills, that you can still be involved in the hobby. it baffled me how even to fix this without expending much money or getting someone to do it for me at first, but after some thought and lots of time spent on this and other forums i decided to cut out the rotted steel and piece in 1/4 inch angle iron to form the side angles of the body braces and then weld flat steel to the top and bottom. the way i figure it, at least i am stopping the cancer from spreading and improving the structural integrity of the car which i will prove later. keep in mind, whomever painted this car in the distant past just covered up all this rot with a piece of sheetmetal from a toyota hood...
  9. spring of 2012 was also remodeling house... was lucky enough to get 2 large free picture windows from someone down the road for the price of hauling them away... we put the brown metal roof on spring 2011... best thing i ever did, snow slides right off. dont have to shovel it off any more thank goodness.
  10. couple more pics rear 4 trunk body mounts were rotted away...4 about equal hand sized rust holes... rest of trunk was very solid by wisconsin standards ha ha paint code on car was aqua blue poly.. rear trunk lid was cream, same as front clip, so some parts came off another car maybe not sure of history...
  11. alright- these pics are from spring 2012 which is when i purchased the car in iowa. the car was located around 375 miles one way from my home in nw wisconsin, found it via a craigslist ad. i towed the car home with a car hauler trailer and my trusty 77 ford wood truck. the truck has a 300 6 banger in it with a 4 spd. it was a heavy load for the old truck- max speed was about 58 mph the whole way back with the pedal to the metal most of the way...
  12. a few more- notice no grill ornament and missing trim
  13. hey i finally got some pics- this one is from spring 2012 when i first got the car
  14. wow a rust free, running, driving, 60s sweet car like that for a grand.. i gotta get the heck out of wisconsin!!! and i can attest to the drum brakes being sufficent if they are the same big alum finned drum brakes like my 65... as i was driving along a county road last summer going about 65 when of all things a wild turkey flew out in front of me... i stood on the brakes- 100% stock single reservoir (sp?) master cylinder, and all four wheels locked up and we quicklly came to a halt and missed the turkey...the car stopped straight as an arrow... i was impressed with those drum brakes. turkey flew away unscathed, so did car.