1967 - 1997 Riviera

I would be interested in seeing that scary mess you found in the bottom of the oil pan. I hope you took a picture of it for all of us to learn from.

Ultimately, it is your final decision. But If it were up to me, I would go ahead and install the upgraded connecting rods with the insert bearings, especially since you are doing an overhaul anyway. I would do this for any engine that will have a final compression ratio of 6.0 to 1, or higher, that will be driven harder than an "easy-as-it-goes", sometime cruiser. The upgraded rods should have new bolts and also be magnafluxed for any incipient cracks. Perhaps Terrill Machine already does this.

What final compression ratio will your modified engine be running? Or at least, what compression ratio are you aiming for?

The best time to change your oil AND filter is after an extended trip of many miles driven at one time. As the oil gets hot and is circulated throughout the engine, it starts to do its job and picks up all the microscopic abrasive particles, contaminants, sludge, varnish, etc., and sends it to the filter for capture. What isn't captured is held in suspension by the oil ready for you to drain out as soon as you arrive home and park the car in your garage. Draining right away while hot helps remove the maximum amount of bad stuff from your engine. If you drain the oil when the car has been sitting and the engine is cold, the contaminants have a chance to settle out on the bottom of the oil pan and contribute to accumulating sludge. This is the procedure that I've always followed. When the intake manifold gaskets were replaced on my 1997 Riviera, at over 150,000 miles, the wide-eyed technician called me out to the work area to show me the lifter valley of my engine because he had never seen a 3800 V-6 that was so clean, even after having replaced the intake gaskets on many of those engines. Of course using Mobil 1 synthetic since day one may have helped too!

Looks great! Is the inside as good as the outside, not just appearance but the mechanicals?

Before you decide to add the Marvel Mystery Oiler inverse oiler to your engine, it may be worth your time to read the numerous posts about MMO on the website Bobistheoilguy.com, where the product has been discussed ad infinitum by some very knowledgeable people. Not saying the the use of MMO today is either bad or good, as I've used it myself. But there is a wide range of opinions about it from excellent to not recommended. So many varying opinions that you will have to make your own decision whether to "yes" or "no."

I was directed to you by the other members of the Riviera Forum as the "go to" person whio knows about antenna repairs. Looks like I will need a number of parts to fix my power antenna on a 1999 Riviera, but I don't have their part numbers. The mast was slightly bent when I bought the car used, but it still worked fine for a couple of years until just recently. The motor functions as it should, but the three section mast no longer fully retracts or fully extends. I need the mast with the flat button on top. Don't know if I will also need the serrated plastic nut, within the black collar that is flush with the top of the fender, because I suspected that this would probably break when I attempted to unscrew it. I thought this was what secures the mast in place, but was told otherwise. The original three section mast is bent. In addition, it would not extend completely or retract competely when the power was on or off. Too much static with the radio on. In order to prevent anyone from grabbing a hold of the mast and breaking it off completely, I turned off the radio and pushed it down as far as it would go by hand. I can purchase a complete replacement power antenna unit, from mast to motor and mounting bracket, from a Buick dealer, but it does not match the original mast with a flat button on top. Do you have the necessary parts or offer reconditioned antennas for a 1999, or are the auto recycling yards my best alternative?

To get this can of worms corrected, I have a hunch it is going to cost you more than $4,000.00. Perhaps much more. I think you need to seriously consider how much you're willing to spend to put this 1998 right. Some of the electronic parts you need may no longer be available.

Have you tried driving your car at night during a rainstorm or snow storm? Knowing how one needs to drive under these conditions using lower intensity headlamps to prevent a visibility "white out", I would be interested in knowing how your extra bright LEDs affect driving in adverse weather conditions.

The way it was explained in the 1971 Buick color catalog, there was a sensor on both the rear axle and one of the front wheels that fed information into an early, onboard "black box" computer that continually compared the rotational speed of the front wheels vs. the rear wheels. If the computer detected that rear axle rotational speed starting to exceed the front wheel speed, which would mean rear wheel slippage, it would modulate or reduce the throttle application to lower the engine speed until the difference was reduced to zero. Thereby, rear wheel slip was reduced and the car regained traction on the slippery surface. I don't remember if the system was available on any other model besides the Riviera.

Who is the expert, or "go to" person, on this forum for antenna repairs? Looks like I will need a number of parts to fix my power antenna on a 1999 Riviera, but I don't have their part numbers. The mast was slightly bent when I bought the car used, but it still worked fine for a couple of years until just recently. The motor functions as it should, but the three section mast no longer fully retracts or fully extends. I need the mast with the flat button on top. Don't know if I will also need the serrated plastic nut, within the black collar that is flush with the top of the fender, because I suspected that this would probably break when I attempted to unscrew it. I thought this was what secures the mast in place, but was told otherwise. The original three section mast is bent. In addition, it would not extend completely or retract competely when the power was on or off. Too much static with the radio on. In order to prevent anyone from grabbing a hold of the mast and breaking it off completely, I turned off the radio and pushed it down as far as it would go by hand. You can purchase a complete replacement power antenna unit from a Buick dealer, but it does not match the original mast with a flat button on top. Do any visitors to this board have the necessary parts or offer reconditioned antennas for a 1999, or are the auto recycling yards my best alternative?

Two beautiful examples of the 1971 Riviera! I always liked them as much as the first generation. Do either of these original 1971 cars still have the MaxTrax traction control option, and does it still work after all this time?

That is a real draw dropping blue color. Do you know what it was called?

I own a 1997 Riviera and faced your same situation about three and one-half years ago when I had to replace the passenger side, lower control arm - the whole thing just because the rubber bushings were worn. I think I had the very last one available anywhere installed because it took quite a search of dealer inventories to find it. I've read that when GM went through bankruptcy in 2008 or so, they disposed of a lot of parts inventory because it was probably just considered unnecessary and dead overhead. You might also search for the component among part sources for the Oldsmobile Aurora and some Cadillacs because they used the same chassis underpinnings as the Riviera. Also, I think there may be some aftermarket source for the bushings only. Good luck!

Was a factory-installed radio available with an FM band in 1964?

Thank you for sharing your knowledge 5,000 times.

"Do you think we could do it again ?" Even some of the most basic components required for a large scale, wartime, industrial ramp-up are partially out of our hands. All the 52100 steel used for the balls and rollers of rolling element bearings - no matter who makes the complete bearing - is made by the Japanese in their electric steel furnaces. They have that market all to the themselves, and the concentration of supply would leave us at risk if it was cut-off.

Since you live in the nothern part of the country, I would advise to install the 195 degree, unless you also have some other cooling component issues that need to be addressed or corrected. Also, this is assuming you are using a high enough octane gas to avoid preignition or knocking.

"Chances are the owner didn't pull up the floor mat after the carpet got wet" And by now it stinks of mold and mildew!

"So did the test suggest the length of time the bolt/bolts should be SOAKED?" No, it did not. I know that, in some cases, Kroil works relatively quickly, depending upon the severity of the rust cementation. Only experience with using the ATF-Acetone mixture will tell.

I vagely recall that this was posted somewhere om these boards a while ago. I don't know who to attribute it to, but you may find it useful: "Machinist's Workshop" published information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested these products for "break out "torque" on rusted nuts and bolts. A subjective test was made of popular penetrating oils, with the unit of merit being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" bolt. Average torque load to loosen nut: No Oil used ........................516 foot pounds WD-40 ..................... ........238 foot pounds PB Blaster .........................214 foot pounds Liquid Wrench ......................127 foot pounds Kano Kroil .........................106 foot pounds ATF/Acetone mix...................... 53 foot pounds The ATF/Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that Liquid Wrench is almost as good as Kroil for 20% of the price. ATF/Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50/50 mix. ATF = Any type of Automatic Transmission Fluid This version of the story was in one of the Military Vehicle Club newsletters. </SPAN>"

If you drill down and into the technical data on their website, I think you will find that Mobil 1 10W-30 has zinc/phosphate concentration of 3,000 ppm.

WOW! At $797.50, these are like sterling silver! There's a business opportunity here for an enterprising collector or restorer of 1965 models.

Reading this post brought a small smile to my face because, in 200,000+ miles of driving my 1997 with the Series II 3800 supercharged engine, the tachometer never went above about 3,200 - 3,300 rpm, and the car still accelerated like a scalded cat. Plus, with the 5th speed overdrive transmission, I couldn't even tell you how mine runs above 4,000 rpm. Are you doing some WOT accelerations or high speed testing?

A great car. May be the lone survivor. Please ask your friend to post more pictures of it.