Warehousebroker

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About Warehousebroker

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  • Birthday 10/27/1954
  1. Looks very nice, nice color which will be accented nicely as the "ice" goes back on! MAACO deserves some credit for getting going with it and giving you a fair deal to boot. Beats the hell out of sanding, sanding, sanding.... priming, priming, priming, etc. yourself! Looks Good! Brian Need the shades to protect my eyes from the SHINE!!!
  2. Hey Chris: I have been watching the progress with your car and it is truly a site to behold, this car you have salvaged from the crusher. I had experience with MAACO and they did get it right in the end. I was reluctant along the way too. However, I feel it is in your best interest to continue along this path a little longer. I think you should continue to make them think you are yanking it soon if they don't get it done, but ultimately let them paint and finish it. The other route involves a bunch of your time and likely more $$$ I know exactly how you feel though because of all you have in this car it becomes a part of you and that is precisely why I feel you should let them get it done, you deserve to have the car back, painted. It is going to be awesome and you are going to be so happy you will forget all about this drama. Peace, brother!
  3. As for the lottery why not get together a pool of old car guys and buy lottery tickets? Many past winners have been office pools! Just a thought
  4. Chris' brother here; you guys talking about Avanti brakes! So many folks got fed up with those brakes a "cottage" industry called Turner Brakes sprung up selling adapter kits to install Mustang or Vette brakes on Studebakers. I know it is sacreligious to mention those brand "X" cars in the same sentence! Even after one achieves brake bleed shag gra la they continue to frustrate errrrgh!
  5. Do any of the gaskets shown in the picture match exactly the one that came off the motor? If the answer is no, then the pictured head gaskets likely are the remains of an old engine rebuild gasket set which contained the correct ones which were installed and the leftovers tossed in the car... just sayin! The pictured gaskets do not appear to be similar to the one removed. I have more than one set of those pictured as they too are the remains of old gasket sets. For correct compression ratio the thinest gasket is the correct one, its flimsy metal. Does the one that you removed show much age? Could it be cleaned and re-used? These are rhetorical questions not intended to suggest anything?:confused: If you can get Nimesh on the phone, that is who I called with the same question.
  6. Chris are you sure they shipped the correct head gasket? I think it should be thin metal. Check with Nimesh if you can't get info from anybody else but i have always used thin metal.
  7. If memory serves me that push rod on the brake booster which goes into the Master Cylinder has a critical adjustment. To long and the brakes drag, to short and you have no brakes and I am not sure the Shop Manual is much help. There is another book out titled "What the Avanti Workshop Manual Doesn't Tell You" and I believe I found it in there. FYI
  8. No indeed I am quite happy to share in your excitement as you wrestle your way thru this most recent endeavor of yours. If you are happy with your engine I am happy! It is no small expense to redo those heads so why not use the car while your resources recover from this onslaught! Youve done an excellent job so far and your gaining on it now. Onward and upward with the little mauve color rose of Texas.
  9. Nice work Chris, you are going to have one fine running engine when you finish. I chose a similar path, I decided to redo the engine and drive train and get the car running real smooth so I could enjoy driving it, I can always do the cosmetic stuff. When you redo the head get some new valve guides pressed in along with the valve seals, and clean them valves up real nice. If you can depress the valve springs with just the pressure of your hand, the springs are shot so check that out too. You don't want the engine rpm falling off just when you are busting a move on some 'vette or camaro, do you???!!!! LOOKING GOOD!
  10. Chris looking at your pictures I was reminded about something I will pass on to you to be recalled at the appropriate time. The lower radiator hose connection at the engine block is a ***** to get to after everything is installed. I put that hose on and tighten the clamp strategically exposing the adjustment screw on the hose clamp for future access with a screwdriver or nut driver before I get too far along in the re-install process.
  11. Chris, very nice work you are doing you are going to love love love your new ride, just hang in there you are doing great! Food for thought, how many miles are showing on the odometer? How many miles do you think are on this car/engine? If you decide to yank the head/s to get at the snapped off bolts would you rebuild the head/s? New valves/springs/seals those seals can be problematic. You are planning on a new water pump so yanking the water manifold is just eight bolts. You want to do something with the pulleys, Just sayin... also I have a blast cabinet if you want to gather up some stuff and clean it up you are welcome to use it or you can even leave it here and myself or Matt will clean it up for you its up to you.
  12. Yeah I agree with the others about yanking the engine, wait on that one. Sometimes you need to walk away and distract yourself (do something else) and come back to it. I would not be adverse to yanking that head though, you already have the intake manifold off, and the exhaust so its what 12 head bolts, a new head gasket. Also, you will have better access to that motor mount not to mention having that head on a bench will assure success on those rung off bolts. After that you put it all back together and drive the car this spring and summer and then if later you want to crate it off to Nimesh it will be winter again and you can work on the tranny and rear end if you want. Oh, by the way Macco is having a special; their second best paint job for half price ($279 I think I saw) If it helps I have a welder that plugs into regular current if you want to try the washer and nut thing! Matt is not bad at welding too, I am still practicing! Something to ponder... anyway don't let it worry you... give it time and think about options and above all else FEEL BETTER! The Fourth Son!
  13. Chris, is there any way you can heat those up before you try and extract? Are you going to use an "easy out" or comparable tool to remove the bolts? You should use a punch to center your drill bit as much as possible. I have had some problems not doing that in similar situations. I would try and heat the top and side of the area where the stud is implanted then attempt the extraction. Heat is your best friend in these situations, at least in my opinion. If you can use an easy out and get the stud out without harming the threads you will save some steps. Just sayin.... Brian
  14. Chris, Dad and I replaced more than one set of motor mounts with, believe it or not, a bumper jack! However we found the preferred method by far was to take the old block and tackle engine hoist we rigged up between a couple of trees in Davidsonville and grab the engine by the water manifold and yank it up and slip those mounts out and in, in a jiffy. So, I was simply offering to let you use the engine hoist to lift the front of the engine enough to replace those mounts. However, you certainly can do it the way you plan. Just sayin....
  15. Chris, I may have my old riser unit which i turned into a spacer if you want it. My research indicated it was installed to enhance motor warm up forcing the intake manifold to heat up quickly which in turn caused the choke to open. I installed an electric choke so i made a spacer out of mine and with the R3 manifold I don't need it. Also, I have an engine hoist you may use to install those engine mounts if you'd like, let me know.