Claret Red 89

Those moldings look pretty good. Please share the how you did it. Are the original mountings used? Are the new moldings generic, or particular to another vehicle?

The moldings on my car are basically disintegrating. Has any one permanently removed the moldings and repainted? Please post pictures if you have any.

What condition are the seats in....and how much?

Before I repaint my Claret Red 89 I am interested in replacing the torn red seats. If I can get a good price on some seats I can afford a better paint job. If anyone has seats for sale let me know what you have and provide your asking price. I'm in Huntsville Alabama.

Dale......its a Reatta, not a Regatta.

I'm sure it is not as easy as dropping a Viagra in the tranny. What exactly does it mean to have a tranny hardened, where do you get it done, and how expensive is it?

Recently changed the accumulator on my 89 and it fixed the hard pedal, but the ABS light is still on. Ran the ABS System Self Diagnosis in the service manual starting on page 5E1-7 and got Codes "99" and "34". Code 99 is not a listed code so I ran it again and got the same results. Tried the code clearing procedure, ran the test a third time and again got the same codes. Anyone got any ideas or have experienced code 99?

I don't like looking at the real time fuel mileage on the CRT! The car is just too underpowered I think. It takes forever to get up to speed without a little lead foot. I have been told I am a "lead foot", but when I try my best to get the best in town mileage it is normally within 1 mpg of my normal driving habit mileage.

So none of the parts are cost effective to salvage? Are the units being manufactured anymore, or only remanufactured/refurbished. It seems a shame to just let them be crushed unless they are so plentiful that there are enough in the system for a remanufacture/refurbish process.

Mostly whether to pick it or not. I would probably keep it for a spare, but it would be nice to know whether it would be worth it if I did end up selling.

I thought all Select Sixty cars had a hood emblem that said so?

If you are doing this just to replace the photocell make sure the photocell is bad first. I had the same problem and fixed it by following instructions I got from this forum. It involves spraying the slider switch in the headlight switch with I think WD40 or a similar lube. My lights started working properly almost immediately on my 89.

Is this a good price? Is it worth the time and expense of removing one of these from a u-pick junkyard car?

I was thinking of asking this same question. It appears that the mileage estimates are all over the place. The realization that people have different driving habits accounts for alot of the differences, but that shouldn't make a difference of up to 7 mpg for highway driving. I recently had a new ECM installed in my car and my stop and go mileage went from 17-18 to 14-15. I haven't had a chance to check the highway mpg, but I expect it has also dropped. Is a there a "computer relearn", or some other factor(s) associated with a new ECM that affects gas mileage?

1990 Buick Reatta Recalls and Technical Service Bulletins (TSB's) Provided by ALLDATAdiy.com

I am from Huntsville, but didn't get a PM. Everything was about 5-10 miles north of me in the morning, and 25 miles south in the afternoon. Surrounded! I helped with tornado cleanup after the April 2011 tornados in North Alabama. These last tornados took almost the exact path as the April 2011 ones. The area I helped in had just finished their rebuild when they were just hit again.

Maybe a Mary Kay car!

Well, I haven't run the accumulator test yet because of the cold temperatures here. I believe I would get false indications in the cold weather, and in the end all I will have done is "GET COLD". I have had the car for about 5 years/20,000 miles. I have never done anything to the brakes except maintain fluid level and check pad wear. I believe in "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", but now since I have this problem I will check the pads again soon and pay particular attention to the condition of the brake lines and also bleed the system.

With the temperature at approximately 20 degree F last night I started the car, and after allowing the engine to run for about 1 minute I put my foot on the brake and attempted to put it in gear. The shifter button would not depress at all. This was very odd and the only time this has ever happened to me. I thought it may be due to cold weather so I waited for the engine temperature to reach about 140 degrees F at which time the shifter worked just fine. Recently my brakes have been acting up and I was wondering if that could have something to do with the shifter button not depressing since the brake pedal must be depressed in order to shift out of Park. If trying to stop quickly I have an initial hard pedal, but it recovers quickly and stops fine. I am going to run the accumulator tests if it gets above freezing today. Another possibility, although temperature should not affect it, I had the console apart last week to clean up the glass from my windshield being broken, but have started and driven the car at least 10 times since. Anybody else ever have this problem? Any educated guesses on what could cause this?

Good guess, Yes, Safelite and Pilkington. Windshield was $978.95. Labor-$60, disposal fee-$9, mobile fee-$24.99, sales tax-$83.21. Got the following info while price shopping locally: Windshield is shipped from Pilkington warehouse in Columbus, OH to Classic in Birmingham. I understoodthat there were around 10 windshields in Columbus. Anyway is seems that your $975 quote is good.

I just had a new windshield installed for $1157.

Yeah, windshield is in! I did check the operation of the photocell. I have been unable to dim the dash lights or the CRT since I bought the car, but didn't know what was causing it not to work. Went through the troubleshooting available at reattaowners.com and found that the photocell was OK, but the headlight switch needed the "contact cleaner and button exercise" before the dimmers all started to work correctly. Thanks again to all the helpers.

Well, I got the old dashboard out Tuesday and because I didn't have garage space I had to cover the car really well due to all day rain on Wednesday. Just got the new dash in today and everything put back together. Thanks to all for the helpful information provided. I didn't pull the seats, console or the "doghouse", but did have to loosen the doghouse to get the new dashboard in because it was just too tight of a squeeze. Really was not as difficult as I expected. Safelite is coming in the am to install the new windshield.

Glad the windshield is intact! As you know I just had to have mine replaced. $1171 eeek! Looked into used, but the prices for anything decent (which I couldn't really verify from afar) with installation were at least 75% of the cost of new.

Wow, getting alot of good info here that is really appreciated. Big "Thanks" to all who have responded so far. Is it necessary, or just easier, to do this with the windshield removed?