39Cdan

Thank you Mr. Tinindian. I ordered and received a replacement via ebay. My hunch is after I pull up the floor mat the secret recipe for this replacement will be fully revealed. We've all been here - I once pulled out a dashboard ash tray just because, and had to subsequently reattach the tray knob :) R, Kevin

Hello All, Looked but haven't found the instructions for replacing the light foot switch. While under the car, the switch appears to be hidden by the frame. That leaves pulling up the floor mat which doesn't at all sound appealing. Anyone been there done that? Thank you, Kevin

Good Morning! This time I refused to be outsmarted by an 80 year old car part (although having typed that I've really set myself up) Yes Sir, the middle on-position of the light switch causes current to come back to the light switch and pass from one terminal to another, per the attached (Low beam 7 to 6, Hi beam 5 to 4). The dimmer switch I completely cut away from the harness wiring and ohm'd all combinations of switch settings and terminals - open circuit in every config. - replacement switch on order. So, who can school me on replacing the dimmer switch? Thank you, Kevin

Thank you Mr. 39BuickEight. While I'm "there" it does make sense to replace both switches. The pull switch middle position, I have to wiggle a bit before the tail lights come on. I haven't yet replaced either the light or dimmer switches. Having enjoyed observing your hard-earned restoration, is the dimmer switch replaced from under the car or inside? Thx! Kevin

Thank you Mr. Painter. Pretty sure I have the original switch. Tried all the combinations of light and dimmer switch positions - never got a voltage at the bulb inputs in 'city'. Cut all three wires to the dimmer switch. Makes sense to me that zero ohms should be found somewhere between those wires. Nope, dimmer switch wires are all open to each other. Time to order a replacement dimmer switch. Thank you again for your reply. R, Kevin

Hello again from Norfolk VA. Time to sort out the wiring from the light switch and the dimmer switch to all the bulbs at the front of the car. I have a shop manual with which to validate connections. But I find the shop manual lacking in describing which light switch terminals are supposed to be energized at the three light switch positions. Has someone out there created or ran across a chart of some kind that matches switch positions with energized switch terminals? Thank you, Kevin

Hello from Nawfick. Well, discovered a trick to this although I'm sure there are others. Yes, completely back out and remove the lower adjustment screw (not essential but helpful). Two clip-shaped hold-downs remain at 3 and 9. Push down the reflector at either side just below the clip end. On the pushed-down side, insert the end of a flat-blade screwdriver between the reflector edge and the reflector cup, beside the clip. Twist the screwdriver ever so slightly until the reflector edge clears the clip, and lift out. Watch carefully for other pieces inside the reflector cup that want to escape and head for a dark corner on you workshop floor. R, Kevin

Got it. Strategic cautious force with a flat blade screwdriver. Thx Mr McBuick.

Thank you Mr. McBuick! Same here, pegs/retainers at 3 & 9. Haven't been able to push down the reflector and remove a horse shoe clip. The pegs at 3 and 9 won't move outward or otherwise to release the reflector. There's a trick haven't found yet. Thx, Kevin

Thank you Gents! Very similar. Here's my bucket. I see the tabs you've mentioned. Juuuuuuust want to make sure I apply correct force magnitude/place/direction. Still looking for "Popping out 39 Special bucket reflector for dummies". R, Kevin

Hello again from Norfolk. Get the lights working - next item on my to-do list. I have removed the headlamp bucket and outer marker light assy. I would like to check the inside of the bucket but haven't found the trick to popping out the dish in the front of the bucket. Any advice would be very much appreciated. Thank you, Kevin

Thank you Gentlemen! True statement - repaired with duct tape :) Tried constructing a separator with various material, paper and gasket cork. Stared at it for a bit, with a glass of red. Inserted a layer of duct tape where I believe the separator should fit. I must admit, in this "configuration" the horns are not wired to a hair trigger. Thank you again. Best to all, Kevin

Hello My Friends. Many years ago the previous owner of my '39 Special (an Uncle with a fantastic sense of humor) cut the horn button wire at the steering column contact point. I have wondered why for 12-ish years, yesterday I found the answer. After rewiring the horn circuit and poised to make this last connection - to the column contact - the horns blared with pride. I disassembled the button assembly and must conclude inadequate separation between contacts. Ref Figure 12-51 in the '38 Shop Manual. So, I would be pleased to gain from another's experience in this subject. Thank you, Kevin

Hello Friends. I'm shopping for Carter WDO vacuum switch parts. Know of anyone with a spare plunger and guide block? Thank you!

Hello Amigos. After installing an electric fuel pump and bypassing the mechanical fuel pump, the ol' girl is still very reluctant to start. Found a couple paragraphs in the shop manual that talk about adding/subtracting shims inside the carb vacuum switch. I'm thinkin' I don't have any of these shims in mine. Question - anyone recall how many shims they have in their Carter WD-O vacuum switch? Thank you! Kevin

Thanks Dave! I've removed the mechanical fuel pump and fabbed/installed a blank off plate. Yes Sir, while surfing found several fans of using an oil pressure switch. I also found roughly an equal number of guys going with the e pump as a primer/backup as you have, and the other group using it exclusively. My first choice is running the e pump only, with power to it controlled by the ignition switch (extra single purpose switch unnecessary). Hoping one of our club-mates has conquered that config. This eve I confirmed that I fried the starter solenoid. Guys out there have a favorite starter rebuilder? V/R, Kevin

Hello mi Compadres. Well, once again my ego created a problem for another part of my brain to solve. While wiring in an electric fuel pump I believe I have fried the starter solenoid. (I was trying to solve that 'gas leaves the carb bowl after shutting off the car' condition.) Those of you who have successfully installed and wired an electric fuel pump, may I trouble you to pass back a sketch of your connections. Thank you!!!!!! Kevin

Thank you again Gentlemen! Yep, when I pulled the rocker assembly the oil tube was simply poked down into the pedestal hole. Too bad, I like the 'deliberate' look of the elbow. Also, not surprisingly, I rolled out of bed this morning while saying to myself, "duh, another fitting joins the tube to the head". Glad I took lots of pics of the carb before I removed it. R, Kevin

Gentlemen, perfect thank you!!! Follow-up question if I may: How is the elbow at the top of the oil feed tube attached to the pedestal? Thank you, Kevin

Good Morning, Anyone working on a 248 - may I trouble you to measure the height of a rocker shaft pedestal (the distance from the top of the head where the pedestal meets the head, to the underside of the pedestal's longer bolt)? Still trying to solve a mystery. Had my 1939 248 rocker arm assy rebuilt. Set the rebuilt assy on the head. Adjustment bolts were too short, ordered a longer set. Please see attached pic. The oil supply tube is resting on the top of the rocker before the bottom collar nut threads fully seat in the head. Also, when I fully insert the top side of the tube into the top of the front pedestal, the threads do not touch the head. Only theory I've got now is the assy came back with slightly higher pedestals. Very grateful for someone to measure the height of their 248 rocker assy pedestals. Thank you! Kevin

Hi Larry, Removed the rocker assy. The adjustment screws that came back in the assy measure just under 1 3/8 ". When I turn the screws all the way down for the pads to touch the valve stem tops, there isn't enough thread left on the shank to snug the collar nut. Spoke with my machinist today, he'll swap longer screws with me tomorrow. Regards All, Kevin

Hello from Virginia. Recently had my 39 Special rocker arm assembly rebuilt. Looks great but, I believe the re-builder sent it back with cup adjustment screws that are too short - can't make the rockers touch both the valve stem and push rods. Dimensions please - Nominal length of the rocker adjustment screw? Distance from the bottom of a shaft stanchion to the bottom of the rocker shaft? Seems unlikely that the new stanchions are holding the rockers too far from the head but I'd like to verify. Thank you!!! Kevin

Thx Billy. Been following your resto, well done Sir.

Afternoon. Just finished replacing front and back mounts. Find a friend with long skinny arms for help with the front pair. I disconnected the rocker from the left rear block. Pretty sure it would have survived the engine lift but it was easy to disconnect and reconnect. Regards, Kevin

Hello from 39Cdan in Virginia. Finally got around to replacing all four motor mounts. Evidently I'll need to lift the engine front a bit more than an inch to make clearance for swapping the front pair. Question: do I need to or should I disconnect the clutch pedal rocker (?) attached at the left rear of the block? Also, remind me please how do I join the '39 Team Members? Thank you! Kevin