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Jerrys 49

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Everything posted by Jerrys 49

  1. Ok. So my '49 roadmaster has been fine and real fun to drive. I now have an excessive transmission leak though. Sucks! It happened when I accidentally shifted into low gear at around 30MPH. Once I got home I noticed the massive amount of bleeding coming from the transmission. It seems to be leaking from the front (I know.. bad news) of the tranny and you can see the fluid spewing out from the bellhousing cover. I removed the cover and the inspection plate, checked my drain plugs on the torque converter and they seem nice and snug. Red tranny fluid noticeable on the flywheel.. The fluid is nice and red. Tonight, while messing around I decided to fire her up for a while. Bad leak still.. but I did notice another location leaking tranny fluid as well.. I saw it in the engine compartment towards the firewall where the block butts up against the tranny right above the starter. Seems to be pumping out from the seam between the block and tranny right next to an angle shaped plate!! I attached a photo of this area... Also, if anyone knows of an ol timer or one who could help me out around the Inland Empire area / Southern California it would be MUCH appreciated (shops e.t.c...). Jerrys 49
  2. Joe.. I just connected a jumper wire from the FLD terminal on the regulator to a good ground. Started her up, and whenever I pressed on the gas, the ammeter goes all the way to the charge side (I must say, I have never seen her light up so well on the dash lights! hehe). I disconnected the jumper wire, started her back up, and when I press the gas, the ammeter BARELY jumps to the charge side. Oh yeah, and with the jumper wire on, I checked my battery and it was only 6.21. I checked the battery again without the jumper wire on and same reading. Oh and Larry.. I just replaced my belt and it is nice and snug. Jerry 1949 Roadmaster
  3. Hello all.. quick question. My '49 Roadmaster only seems to show a (SLIGHT SLIGHT) charge while in "Park". While driving tonight, it seemed to do fine for about 40 minutes (It pretty much stayed in the 0 or neutral position). After that, it went completely to the "discharge" position and wouldn't "pop" back up until I brought it home and Parked it in the garage... then, while in "Park", I had to rev it up and bingo! Ammeter went from "discharge" to "neutral". I know about polarizing the voltage regulator. I just completely cleaned up ALL of my wire connections- they look new now. Generator was brought in early this year, and the guy said it tested out fine. Any ideas??? Oh, and BTW... MERRY CHRISTMAS Buick Lovers!!! Jerry 1949 Buick Roadmaster - with open portholes!!!
  4. Old Tank.. the ampmeter shows 6.2 on the battery with the car off. Mark.. I haven't tried to hook up the meter with the lights on. Good idea. So here's what happened today... I tried to fire her up and..... click click click... The only sound heard is the starter trying to turn the engine over. The sound is actually probably just the sound of the Bendix. I hooked up the ampmeter and it only shows 5.8 now as opposed to last night's and prior days' 6.2 (with engine off). So.. the question is..... perhaps I am not getting a proper re-charge from my generator with lights on?? I always noticed that when idling at first fire up, the ammeter shows charging, but when I take her out it is always in discharge. AND, if I take her out at night (like most men like to do) the lights on the dash and headlights/tail lights get dim after about 15 min. of driving her. The generator guy said the generator is good.. my voltage regulator is new. I am actually thinking about pursuing an Optima 6 volt and buying a cover that looks original from a local guy just to keep her show. BUT.. if I can not figure out the problem then what's the point right? I wanna just get her new and in working order like she was in 1949. Jerrys 49 1949 Roadmaster 4 Door
  5. Back again! My '49 Roadmaster has been treating me real nice these last few months.. however, last night I took her out, and noticed first off that my dash lights and headlights got really dim after a few miles of driving. Now I think this is odd, since I have replaced my voltage regulator (yes I've polarized it before starting the car after installation), had my generator checked out (guy said it is fine), put a new fan belt on (and it's not too loose), and... I have even been able to leave my car sitting for weeks without removing the battery cables and when checking the battery with a multimeter the numbers read 6.2 while not running. SO..... I had to return her home since my headlights (and every light) were getting to dim to drive around safely. Well... while idling in the garage (with headlights on), I pressed on the accelerator to give her some gas and- SPUTTER SPUTTER SPUTTER. I noticed that when I turned the headlights off and pressed on the accelerator the engine sounded fine and was strong. I switched back and forth with lights on and lights off just to make sure that this was happening and it is. You guys think my battery is weak even though it shows proper voltage (Yes, I do have the proper gauge cables as well)... Is my new voltage regulator bad?? Is my generator bad?? ANY help or comments are very much appreciated. Thanks. Jerrys 49 1949 Buick Roadmaster 4 Door in sunny SO CAL!
  6. Matt. Great advice.. often times forgotten. I did polarize by means of touching the "batt" and "arm" terminals on the voltage regulator together with a long screwdriver. Btw.. I left the ol Buick connected to my battery overnight as a test to see if she would fire up when i got home, or if the battery would be drained like it had a few months back. Good news.. she fired right up! I am still wondering though if my ammeter should be pushing a little more to the charging side when i step on the accelerator.. right now its just raising slightly pass neutral to the charging side... apparently my old regulator was constantly dipping to the charging side whenever the gas was pressed. May have been broke, but gave me a sense of security that my battery was being charged. When i put my headlights on, the ammeter is dipping closer to the discharge side and not raising towards the charging side even when i press the accelerator. But, she fires right up!
  7. Willie! No problem I appreciate your wisdom regardless.. I did not jump the solenoid so not to fret! I did however swap out my voltage regulator (for shits and giggles).. the one i had on was the one it came with. The one i put on is a new one i bought, but Im not sure if it works since the new one dies not go into the "charge" mode on my meter.. the old one is always in "charge" mode as long as I press the accelerator. So..... I took her out for an hour ride, brought her back hone and turned her off. I waited for 15 min. Or so and jumped back into the drivers seat. BOOM! she starts right up like a charm!! I have been testing her out intermittently now for the last hour and she's starting up every time.. Ok.. so now I'm wondering though if this new voltage reg is defective as far as charging goes... the whole hour while I was cruising the ammeter never went to the charge side.. and if I put the headlights on the meter was constantly in the discharge side. Would a bad voltage regulator cause my hot start problem?? The old one was very hot to the touch when i turned her off. Jerry Btw.. I absolutely love belonging to this message board. You guys are VERY helpful and I appreciate it.. I'm only 34 so these ol cars are a whole new world for me.. thank you.
  8. I do have the appropiate stromburg Carb for my year and make of Buick, so that switch should def be the right switch. Jerry
  9. Yes that looks like my Carb switch. I know i have old wires, but still I don't believe the wires are the culprit for my problem at hand.. I am going to replace the wires though. I don't think the engine while hot is not starting due to old wires.. something is getting hot and malfunctioning I think. I started her up yesterday, let the engine get hot, and she fired right up like a charm multiple times. So I took her out and cruised around the highway for about 40 minutes. When i went back home I turned her off and once again the car would not start. No click... nothing. Not a sound. Under the hood gets extremely hot btw.. voltage regulator practically burns the hand when i touch it.normal temp? Curious.. inside the cab gets real hot too, although I think that may be because I'm missing the hoses that are for the vent/heat functions therefore allowing hot air from the engine to enter the hose areas into the cab. My starter Guy said the solenoid and starter worked fine under his heat tests.. he also said the generator was in real good condition. The only thing that I could think that would malfunction due to heat would be my solenoid though.. weird. Jerry
  10. Here are a few pics of the starter.. hope they upload. Jerry
  11. Thanks.. I will go out and try this test on the starter... But, I believe both terminals are the same size. If I am correct, then I will try the test on the terminal on the same side as the strap? Jerry
  12. Dave.. yes pretty much all of my wires are brittle with the exception of the ones under the dash. All the engine wires are crusty. I realize I must buy a new wiring harness, but I wish to buy one made in the original fashion (cloth and braided with bullet terminals already crimped on). YNZ's has one, but will cost me $1000. If the problem is the carb switch ( i know my wires are old), how would one adjust that? I took it apart last night and I can not see any adjustment area on it. Just a spring which connects the switch to the carb mount.. Jerry
  13. Willie.. I jumped 6 volt to the terminal facing the front of the vehicle that has the copper strap connecting it to the starter (not the terminals with wires). This terminal was the one that DOES NOT have the positive battery cable connected to it. Was I supposed to jump 6volt to the small terminal on the back with the wire? If so, those are not different in size. Jerry
  14. Ok.. so I've been tinkering with the ol Buick again. It wouldn't start still after about 3 hrs. So I grabbed the two wires going to the Carb switch and started moving them around. I noticed (through the frayed and old cloth wiring) that while moving them around I would get a spark. So I held them together while sparking (minimal spark) and boom! She starts right up. Essentially I think I've jumped the Carb switch (with the key in the ON position). So, is my goblin of a problem a defective Carb switch or old wires?? Jerry
  15. I wonder why is it that a hot engine causing this switch to all of a sudden malfunction?? I jumped the Carb switch as well, and all i got was a "click" when I turned the key only to off or on.. Jerry
  16. Dave.. I hooked up my test light to the carb switch. With the key in the OFF position, only one side lights up. With the key in the ON position, BOTH side light up (with out me even pressing the gas pedal to start her up).. Give me insight PLEASE! Jerry
  17. Willie.. I started her up and let her get hot. Turned her off and same situation. SO, I jumped the starter solenoid like you said. The starter motor ran but did not engage the flywheel. Not sure if this is what is supposed to happen. I am going to try and jump the carb switch now.. Jerry 1949 Roadmaster
  18. Haven't had much time if any this week to tinker around on the ol' Buick... This weekend I should be able to attempt to problem solve again, and this time hopefully with GREAT results.. Willie, how exactly would I jump 6v to the above mentioned locations? (ok ok.. everyone laugh now... I can take it.. I have a good sense of humor! Jerry 1949 Roadmaster
  19. I had just taken the starter to the shop.. the guy cleaned it up. Everything was fine on it at the shop... Gauge did show charge while I had it running.. regulator is hooked up correctly... I have new CORRECT gauge cables for the battery.. I got rid of the sparking problem... After I had the car running I turned it off to see if it would start back up. That's the problem now.. When I go to start it up when it's hot, there is nothing. Actually NO sound at all. No motor turning, no starter, nothing. Kind of odd.. Not sure what it could be. Jerry 1949 Roadmaster
  20. Dennis.. I took your advice and soldered it back on, put the solenoid and starter back together and mounted in into the car. Went to start it up and same thing. BIG sparks on the negative battery terminal. SO.. I took opened the solenoid back up, and decided that perhaps the strap was touching the case of the solenoid causing a short. I repositioned it.. and VOILA! My car started up... I let the car idle for a long time being happy that she finally started up. After about 20 minutes of leaving the car running, I turned it off to see if she would start up (since I have been having problems with the car not starting up after being driven)... WELL, here I am again. The car DOES NOT start back up after being hot. NO turning of the motor, NO sound from the starter. NOTHING. I am confused. I can't figure out why the car won't start after getting hot. All I want to do is go cruise somewhere, stop, and be able to turn the car back on after hanging out with friends!! Vapor lock?? Can't be the starter being hot since I touched it and it is cool to the touch. Back to the drawing board! Jerry 1949 Roadmaster
  21. Well guys.. I pulled the starter back out and removed the solenoid. I opened the solenoid up to see if the points were stuck and noticed that inside on the terminal which connects to the positive battery cable, there is a metal strip that has been broken. It is broken at the solder spot.. I'm thinking I may have broken it due to over tightening it when I put on my battery cable... SO... unless regular electric solder can do the trick, I may have to purchase a new solenoid from Bob's. Jerry 1949 Roadmaster
  22. When this happened the car tried to start up and that's when I heard the starter being stuck. I turned the key to off and tried to start her up again and she fired up but the starter was still whizzing. That's when I popped the hood to disconnect the negative battery cable and saw the positive battery cable touching the other terminal on the starter which caused a small flame. Jerry 1949 Roadmaster
  23. Wow. Nice choices guys.. BUT, kind of curious as to why no one picked the '49 models? I guess I'm a bit biased, but I really enjoy the styling of 1949- not just for Buick either! If I did buy another Buick though, I would probably buy something from the early '50s.. hmm. A 1953 Roadie would be nice! Jerry 1949 Roadmaster
  24. I am thinking after examining my wire connections (all over the damn car!) that the points must be stuck on the solenoid. What if I just tap it with a hammer and get it to work?? Would this be a "safe" method to use? Or will I still run the risk of the starter sticking on while driving and cause an engine fire? OR, should I attempt to open the solenoid and clean the points? From what I have seen over the internet, a starter solenoid for a 1949 Roadmaster is hard to come by.. I've seen rebuilt ones on Bob's, but a bit pricy... trying to save up for the ultimate purchase- a complete new wiring harness fashioned in the original manner with cloth braiding. If I finally get some time after work, I am going to try the 'ol tap the solenoid with hammer trick. Jerry 1949 Roadmaster
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