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421-6speed

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Everything posted by 421-6speed

  1. Here are a few pics of the modification I made to the steering column. In order to clear the exhaust manifold I had to flip the shift dog around and extend it 1-1/2". I pulled the shift tube out drilled out the spot welds on the shift dog cut the sift dog off at the Z bend then welded on the 1-1/2" longer arm slipped it back on and plug welded the dog back on. Notice I am using a 401/425 exhaust manifold...I also cut 1-1/2" off the end of the column tube then cut the coupler off the end of the steering shaft to make room for the new Bogeson U-joint. Then I machined a new end piece using a roller bearing to support the steering shaft and shift tube. I also used a rubber dampend Borgeson U-Joint at the rack.
  2. Ben, Come on out. I am know for heaving a knack to putting people to work...
  3. John, Thanks for the complement. I have been around cars my whole life but only as a hobby. I am just a regular do it your self kind of guy that is pretty handy. And I do like tools. I finished up a restoration on a 1961 Bel Air Sport Coupe in August of 2011 and was looking for a new project. I was looking for a 54-57 Olds or Buick when this car crossed my path. I brought it home on January 10, 2012. I decided I wanted to use the 57 olds dash in this car so kept my eyes peeled for a dash and even comunicated with some of the other members here that had 57' Olds parts. I managed to find a couple of parts cars this past Spring and was able to disect the dash out of one and then install it into the Super. I also chose to use the Olds steering column and wheel. I also used a brake peddal assembly out of my 60' buick parts car. The back seat I am using is from a 62' Olds Starfire and then buckets out of a 64' Grand Prix. I also have a split bench seat out of a 55' Cadillac but I have not yet picked it up so I will decide once I have it what front seats I will use. Of course these will all be recovered to match. Here are a few more pics of my progress.
  4. What I have been working on this past week is the bumper ends. I did not like the shields that the factory used so I made my own sealing off the bumper ends from exhaust fumes that rot these out. I cut out the plates inside that attache the mounting brackets and delivered them to the chrome plater to metal finish. When he is finished with his finish sanding I will weld the plates back in and then return them to the plater for final plating. Here are a few pics.
  5. I also built all the brackets for AC compressor, alternator and, power steering pump. I am using a Gen ll power steering pump with a remote reservoir. Once the front inner sheet metal was installed I did not like the way the stock radiator mounted so I made up a template for a new radiator that will mount under the core support from the front. This will allow me to build a fan shroud that will mount on the back side of the core support and I will run a mechanical clutch fan. I also decided to use a hydroboost power brake assembly that came out of the same Chevy Astro Van as the remote reservoir for power steering.
  6. Here are a few more pics. The rods I spoke of in the prior post to establish reference points are shown here.
  7. Here are a few pics showing the process. Before I cut anything I used some Angle steel to support the frame. I also blocked the frame at ride height and then built all my suspension to accomodate. I also made some rods up that measured the length width and cross width of the front of the frame and used a center punch to establish reference points.
  8. I have been reading a few posts here where members are asking how to update their suspension. Every project is different. It all depends on what your trying to accomplish. In my case I was looking for a car that retained a mostly stock looking body with a nice stance and a updated suspension. More of a Street Rod so to speak. Now I know that most of the members here prefer the original restorations and in some cases I would agree. In this build I mixed it up a bit buy using a 87' C4 front suspension a 66' 425 nailhead coupled to a SP400 and a 57-64 Olds/Pontiac 9.3 Posi. After looking at several different front suspension and doing a ton of research I chose the C4 because I thought it had the cleanest look and packed a big bang for the buck. I found a company in CA. Flat Out Engineering that makes a after market crossmember for the C4 components. Most of the crossmembers that Flat Out Engineering make are for pickups but, it just so happens that the crossmember that they make for 36-54 Chevy pickup measured 29-1/2". That just so happens to be the exact same measurements between the frame rails on my 57' Super. To add a plus to the situation the C4 tracking width is the same as the 57' Super 59-1/2". Well this was a no brainer. For the rear suspension I built a triangulated 4-bar. For the driveline I used a 2-piece from a 66' Wildcat. I did have to shorten it in the front and lengthen it in the rear. By using the 2-piece driveline I was able to adjust the pinion angle down giving me ample room for clearance in the driveline tunnel to achieve the ride height I desired. It is getting a bit late so I will continue this later and post some pics of my progress.
  9. I have the upper and lower control arms, spindles and hubs available. Ball joints are in excellent condition as car only had 37,000 miles. 200.00 for everything. Any questions please call. Thanks Dan 360-509-8182
  10. I have a front suspension off a 1960 Buick Le Saber for sale. Includes upper and lower control arms, springs, spindles & hubs, power steering box & pump with brackets for nailhead, drag link & pitman arm. This will work perfect on the front of a 57 Buick to solve the expensive ball joint issue. 295.00 for everything. Any questions please call. Thanks Dan 360-509-8182
  11. I believe Hood Spring to Hood & Deck Lid Hinge to Deck Lid.
  12. The new motor oils no longer use ZDDP and this can be a big problem when used in the older flat tappet engines. Valvoline VR1 Racing oil still uses the ZDDP and this is what you are going to need the prospect your rotating assembly and especially your flat tappet cam. Here are a couple of articles discussing the issue. ZDDP motor oil additive Classic Car Motor Oil
  13. Jim, Thank you. My 57' is a Super. I do have some questions but, I do not want to get off subject here with Buick Man's thread so I will start a new thread pertaining to my questions. Thanks Dan
  14. By the way I wanted to say buickjim your car looks fantastic...
  15. We have a place here is Washington that still does the cad plating. They also do the zinc but, the zinc is not correct and does not look right. Although it is much more affordable. Electrofinishing, Inc. 22630 88th Ave. S. Kent, WA 98031-2432 map Phone: 253-850-0540 Fax: 253-852-2909 I have used them on several of my projects. As others have said in the course of this thread the cost prior to 2000 was relatively inexpensive but has since become quite expensive due to the environmental disposal. I recently used them for my last project and the cost to do a 1/3 of a 5-gallon bucket of original fasteners was around 200.00-250.00. If you insist on using correct fasteners then this is not such a bad deal. I always save all the fasteners from my parts cars and include them in the process and that way I have fasteners for future projects. All my stuff is GM so the same fasteners I have found where used by all the GM manufactures. They do have a cleaning fee of I think 50.00. Meaning they will blast the fasteners for you prior to the plating process. I have also been using the 60% black powder coating for the inner fenders core support for sever years and it by far is superior to any enamel paint. It will not chip like paint during the assembly process. There is not filler that can be used for repairs prior to powder coat. Your only option here is to fix any holes ore dents prior to powder coat. As far as the weather seal to frame materials and attaching as others have said CARS Inc. I also measured the stapels that I removed and then went down to the local welding shop and got 3-sticks of SS Tig wire. It just so happened that I had a set of square nose wire tie plires that had the exact same width dimention as the stapels need so, I was able to bend the wire around the end of the pliers and cut the end off to make a perfect staple for the weather seal. Then I used a long sharp tool like a awl but much skinnier. I just layed the weather seal over the area that it was to be attached and punched the hole through the seal and the hole in the inner fender then attached with the staple. I preformed this process on about every 4th staple to lay out the weather strip them came back and filled in the remaining staples. Good Luck with your project and keep us informed to your progress. My current project is a 57 Buick so I will be keeping track of your progress. It is not a original restoration but more of a resto-rod. I have done the purist restorations and like all aspects of the hobby including the hot rods. Dan
  16. I would not worry about it unless you want to change out your front springs. You don't need a spring compressor to change the front springs though. All you need is a floor jack. Jack the front of the car up and put it on jack stands. Remove the wheels. Remove the cotter pin on the upper ball joint and back the castle nut off so there is a 1/8" or slightly larger space between it and the spindle. Now you will see there is a flat spot on the spindle on the back side of the casting where the shaft of the ball joint goes through. Hit the flat spot with a small sledge hammer until the shaft of the ball joint breaks loose. I like a 3-LB. You will know when it breaks as there will be a pop and the space between the spindle and castle nut will be gone. Now remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint and loosen the castle nut. Put the floor jack under the control arm just behind the ball joint and jack up the front of the car until it starts to come of the stand. At this point you will be able to hit the lower spindle and break the seal on the lower ball joint. Now remove the castle nut form the upper ball joint and slowly let the jack down using the weight of the car to keep the spring in control. The spring will slowly expand until and will fall right out. I have done this many time and just did it on a 1960 Buick last week that did not have a engine or front end. I brought this car home last Saturday and stripped the front end Monday. Then installed it on my 57' Tuesday.
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