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Everything posted by slacker1965

  1. my cl ad: https://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/6337536120.html pls email questions thanks kevin
  2. my CL ad https://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/6337536120.html pls email w questions thanks kevin
  3. basically throwing away a titled, complete but rusty '63 in lincolnton, nc keeping chassis & 401....no time for back & forth....if you need something come & get it.text 980.253.9154 car will be gone in 2 weeks
  4. basically throwing away a titled, complete but rusty '63 in lincolnton, nc keeping chassis & 401....no time for back & forth....if you need something come & get it.text 980.253.9154 car will be gone in 2 weeks
  5. my NHRA teammates say "HP is the speed at which you hit the wall.... Torque is how much of it you knock down." same as mentioned above. a easy way to find out how close the old posted #'s are, vs today, is to take your car to a chassis dyno, or talk someone into it. you don't hafta run the thing to death. a great tuning tool. there are pretty close estimates of drivetrain parasitic loss out there .only real way to know is to dyno the engine, then put it in the car & go for it. On NASCAR/ARCA restrictor plate cars(daytona, talladega), a TON of chassis dyno time is spent minimizing parasitic drivetrain loss. they call it coastdown, measured when you spin the car up to 200, shut it off in neutral then look at the #'s while it unwinds. I had fun participating, tons of work for low pay, but fun never the less. of course dyno #'s can be cheated up or down to suit. I have heard that 70's LS6 Chevelles & Mopar Hemi's were grossly underrated to keep insurance peeps happy. the weird thing about high compression race engines,is that they can have both, lotsa torque digging out of corners, high speed HP sailing into them. of course they are set on kill & don't last very long. I'm thinkin they made around 850hp @ 9000 & had 600 ft lbs tq around 3000. PM me if you wanna see photos of how huge the ports are in a SB2.2 head that was used on a 358...I got a pair in storage just waiting to bu put in a big inch small block . not real PC here. hope this helps, it took me a while to wrap my head around it too peace ks FWIW, I have done quite a bit of research on your delima, one that many have. It Boils down to the size of your project budget & goals. modern FI is great. you could add a basis system to your nail, for like 2-3k in new parts/wiring, more if you hire out the install. ouch. small up grades like a good balance job & electronic ignition help in reliability and usefulness on a stock motor. modern motor combo's make more mileage & power, while going amazing distances(think 2-300k) they should. 50 years of r&d & better materials & machining. A carbed nailhead, that isn't worn out & properly tuned will provide years of trouble free service if they are taken care of. as long as you blueprint everything to factory, or better than factory specs that is. I think my bro, Atomickneedrop, spent 5k ish on his '64 drivetrain? he did the R&R himself. ask him. a 5.3 LS swap can be done for similar #'s if you are very lucky in the donor dept & a good wiring expert & gm service technician. if you are hiring the job out, 10-15k is the bottom end for a 100% quality turnkey job here in Charlotte .lots more than just dropping a motor in & wiring it up. It could be put back stock, it's just metal after all, but then you'd have 7500-10k more in that if you hire it out. it IS your car to do what you want with. I have been trying to get a free/cheap easy EFI for years now, can't get any of the Greeks associates(my part time NHRA employer) to step up.Hot Rod's Roadkill kids did. I had hoped that the price would get down to reasonable, say a grand. THEN we'd have something. still gotta do more than just bolt it on & go despite what they advertise sorry for the long tirade, this forum has been a big help to me & I like to take the time to share what I know
  6. time to thin the herd so to speak...... 1965 Base Riv. Complete New Mexico Car that sat in NC for a time before the motor was pulled & I got a hold of it. As it sits now(in storage) it runs & drives, has all sheet metal hanging on it, int is otherwise disassembled. was orig white/blue int manual windows etc. base model w a/c. crappy blue respray at some point someone sanded on it. car sat up in the south for long enough to ruin most of the interior & rust some places in the back glass & trunk floor.int floors are great! roof & 1/4's have surface rust. whole car will need to be stripped of paint before re-spraying. brakes are new, upgraded to dual m/c., all hoses etc. 401 runs great, someone has had the heads off, I put a timing chain, oil pump,water & fuel pump on it since I had it out. carb has been rebuilt.Trans probably needs to have a kit put in it, it moves the car but has sat for who knows how long? I ran out of xtra shop space & time, put in a temp start switch & o/p gauge & set the car aside 2 years ago. I parted a deluxe green car so have the ft doors with elec regulators both ft clips & door skins lotsa spares etc etc. not a fly & ride car, but a good start if you want a big project. If the sheet metal work doesn't interest you, I can take care of it with a deposit & payment for time & materials. Va title. it is what it is price $2500..... 1963 rust bucket.. did the brakes,(but it needs a booster methinks)so I wouldn't have to push the car around by myself. matching # 401 runs & moves, the dynaflow probably needs some work. been sittin outside with a cover on it for 1 1/2 years. car is 99% complete but too rusty to fix unless you are very ambitious. SC title $1000.... motor & brakes are worth that, which is what I will keep if no one is interested in the next few weeks or so. I will sell the rest for scrap value. both cars are located in tropical Charlotte, NC. I can deliver most anywhere, figure 5 MPG plus food etc for my gas eating ford highboy. I'll get some pix when I have time please don't waste either of our time tire kicking etc, thought I'd start with like minded folks before putting the '63 on CL or parting it out. please email direct to slacker1965@juno.com. I will only have sporadic email access after wed for the next 2 weeks peace Kevin Slack
  7. saw this ad on pro-touring dot com http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/117618-1965-Buick-Riviera-Project-for-sale peace ks
  8. don't know your budget, but there is a 4dr '54 in charlotte that supposedly runs..... Corey transmissions has rebuilt dynaflows from many years in stock. PM me or email if you need help contacting these people. very interested in your LS stuff
  9. stock 54 special wheel bolted up fine to the front of my rustbucket 63.... the 63 5 spoke wheel doesn't work so good on the 54 though..... hope this helps.....
  10. I used a cheapo offshore universal ebay unit on my 65 driver that I converted to a dual m/c setup. no firewall changes, but I did have to add to the rod that goes between the booster & m/c...no big deal if you have access to a welder. my oe rod had a adjustable tip to get the airgap right...no reman units were avail at the parts houses at the time& I didn't want to step up to Dewey's rebuild(budget issues) good luck k
  11. I have used a HF spot blaster on a bunch of stuff....mask off the rest of the car.....a air hose & shop vac will get most of it.....air supply aside, can be a real time saver. for me the biggest deal on sand/media blasting is the supply of air. it is sometimes inconvenient for me to take a project down to the shop, my little 5hp 120v home compressor runs out of air quick. adding a xtra tank will help, but most home grade units just can't keep up. I use galvalite(sp?) to treat areas that you can't reach. it is galvi based but otherwise similar to POR15 in use. chemically bonds & encapsulates rust. it can be brushed, rolled, thinned & sprayed & topcoated if you want....lotsa options in rust encapsulation out there...as soon as POR15 sees air it starts to cure. some people just drill a small hole in the lid & por out what they need then seal the hole....supposed to keep the whole can from curing..... all metal is great for filling pinholes before you POR15 it. good luck k
  12. Ed, I too have used Duplicolor's product with excellent results..... for a spray bomb. My stepdad uses their products on all his motor rebuilds. It is a bit lighter than OE but really close. I can take a pic of the color with a original paint breather if you want.....
  13. Buddy & Bernie thanks for the replies....I'm glad to hear that you aren't having any problems with modern blends Bernie....I expect the biggest issue is with newly rebuilt motors that are tight(even after break-in). ks
  14. Jeff et al..... my question, for those of you that put some real miles on their nailheads, what oil are you running? from what I read we have some with brad penn, mobil 1 & rotella....others? what did matt martin recommend? I forgot to mention additives like Lucas Oil stabilizer...I have heard great reports with the stuff..... thanks ks
  15. One of the main differences is that synthetic oils break down at a higher temp than fossils....learned that while Nascar racing. after break-in, flat-tappet plain bearing engines do seem to live longer on the synthetics, I ran a ski boat(350 chev) on Mobil-1 for 300 hard hours & it looked like new when I pulled the pan. what I am trying to figure out is that how the older worn engines behave on the stuff.... I DO know that my worn out small block chevy engine & Quickchange rear-end(in a racecar) leaked like crazy on Mobil-1(which I got for free at the time)....never lost oil pressure mind you, I guess the stuff is too slippery for old hard oil seals.....upon changing the engine & rear back to quality fossil oils they quit leaking..... FWIW, I run rotella in the old stuff & break-in rebuilt old stuff with Gibbs(if the customer will spring for it) or with a zinc additive.... I have seen a cam failure in a 351w with today's oil, customer had no further problems after putting in a quality camshaft......I suspect heat treating on cheap cam that his motor came with...... great forum topic that has been beat to death on the HAMB lotsa different experiences..... be interesting how the Nailheads out there are doing peace ks
  16. fellow riv enthusiasts, is it me, or have any of you experienced potential cl vehicle sellers either weirding out on you, or exploding with crazy rants when you inquire about purchasing vehicles and/or parts that they have advertised for sale? Do those of you riv experts on here run into this situation often when dealing with owners of 1st gen riv's & parts? Is it normal for sellers to expect you to drive 4+ hours to view their stuff without seeing detailed pictures of their wares? I have had 2 people in the last 2 days freak out on me when I asked detailed questions about cars/parts cars that they had advertised for sale. I don't know if it is the holidays, or that people are attention starved or what.... this is not my first(or last) time buying used cars/parts, but what a weird week it is shaping up to be. I have been playing with old cars/rivs/race cars all of my life & never had people go off on me like that.... anyways I hope all of you have a great holiday season kevin
  17. it depends on what you are trying to accomplish. correct show quality repairs, nice driver repairs, nice work for a low budget driver? I think you are right that the metal is a bit thicker than 18g, but my junk is so horrible so who knows? I think 18 is too heavy for 1/4's....I'm gonna use 18g on my 65 trunk floor since I have it. 20g on the bottom 1/4 area & rear window fixes. 20/22 is way easier to work with, that's what we used on NATIONWIDE & ARCA bodies. all those seams were overlapped 1/2" or so(stepped with a bead roller so the outside of the panels outside is flush) mig spot welded around 1" apart...easy & fast to do but maybe not so good for the street. there is a great article on metal meet discussing this topic. if you have a showcar,keeper or just want professional quality repair, you need to butt weld in the replacement panels. Tig welding is best but way slow. Most body shops just use Mig There is nothing wrong with a skimcoat of bondo, that what it was created for. a 220v Mig lets you actually run the weld a bit hotter since it burns thru the whole panel(again look it up on metalmeet)you can't just weld it up continously, you have to spot it in & bounce around. you will always have to stretch out the HAZ(heat affected zone) etc. you probably know all of this, I kinda was addressing a comment farther down. feel free to email me in you need more info, I don't get out here alot good luck post pix ks
  18. my brother ran into the same thing.....we used the shafts from the old shocks.....used a cutoff wheel to slice the old end for easy removal.....my guess is that those shocks fit a bunch of GM's & KYB just got it wrong.....
  19. rivnik-a fuseable link is just that, a sacrificial wire that is designed to carry a certain ammount of current, if the circuit gets overloaded it melts, just like a fuse. I think you have to just order a new one..... inline circuit breakers & inline fuse holders are readily available & easy to install.....hope this helps
  20. fatb-you will definitely need to put in a relay to handle the addl current that halogens pull, esp if your highbeams are higher wattage than factory. even with a new switch, it was only designed to handle so much current.....it's a pretty easy deal to wire up, the old headlight wire will be used to tickle the relay, you will add a heavy wire to feed the relay & lights, wire & relay size depending on how big halogen bulb you are running. the relay takes the big current hit when turned on so your 50 yr old light switch doesn't have to...hope this makes sense. any parts house will have them, if they don't know what you are talking about look at one in off-road light kit among others.... on a related note, as mentioned above, if you are into the wiring, adding circuit breakers or fuses to those unfused circuits will help prevent underdash fires....well worth your time & effort. I almost burned my '55 chevy to the ground when the unfused ign sw wire shorted out....
  21. you may have to spread the clamp from the splines a bit once you remove the pinch bolt. you DO need to take the bolt completely out 1st! in case you didn't know, there is a groove in the splines for the bolt to seat in. if the rag joint comes apart, it was rotten & needs to be repaired. NAPA has a repair kit.......hope this helps
  22. david I have the walnut media but have not had time to try it out on my fuse panel & wire ends. paying work comes 1st..... I got the small blaster & media @ harbor freight for under $30....I'd give that a go before spending hundreds on new wiring if yours looks intact....JMHO ks
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