rj27buick

I am helping my niece sell her 1950 Ford Pickup - it’s registered and licensed in NY as a 1950 F2 Ford Pickup - frame, cab and front axle, springs all F2. Rear springs F2 as well - frame was shorten (F2 had 8’ bed) new 6 1/2 bed, boards, bumper, etc. - fiberglass fenders - with shortened frame and fenders the truck looks like an F1 - strong running flathead v8 - 8BA - 3 spd - rear axle from late model ford with disc brakes. Adapter used to accept 8 lug wheels - front axle is original with 8 lug - interior has been restored and is very clean and original in appearance asking 32,000

Misc 34 Dodge drivetrain parts - front end, rear end, steering column, non-running blocks, etc. located in dutchess county N.Y. Front end and rear end were removed and are in good condition. See photos.

Block ids - assume the worse I know nothing about these - just being honest

Rear end

Rims - 5 not 6

Wouldn’t have it any other way - thanks for noticing!

Wheels - there are 6 total - tires are all old but rims are holding air.

Not much to say about motors

I am building a 1934 Dodge 4dr with an upgraded drivetrain. I have the following parts avail for a good price to a good home. These are all original parts: - complete front suspension system - good condition - rearend (not springs just rear) - good condition - drive shaft - good condition - 2 engine blocks - not sure what’s inside! - misc engine parts - some look ok others not sure - 6 rims pickup necessary in Dutchess County NY Thanks

I just purchased a 1934 Dodge 4 Door. It came with one motor (unknown condition inside) one extra block removed and various parts, manifold, carb, starter, flywheel, etc... Also Driveshaft. I will be installing new drivetrain so I will sell these parts very cheap. Located in Dutchess County, NY - you need to pick-up. May have additional parts like rear-end in the next few months.

Still have rear fenders? I have a 27 Buick 2dr sedan see avatar - i have solid fenders but one is dented pretty bad. could try to fix unless yours are solid, straight and available. Thanks

Thanks Anglesey - it isn't the money - it is the love for the car. I know I could build a ford - but I really like the Buick. My daily commute is on a road that I would prefer not to be on wooden spokes! And my hope is to drive this thing for many to see - not restore and leave in the garage! It took me a year to come to this decision with much feedback on both sides. I do appreciate your belief.

First let me say thanks to those that helped me initially get my 27 Buick running last year- I appreciate the help from this forum and please don't be mad that I am going in a different direction. I have however decided (please don't hit me) to put a late model straight six, new axles, brakes, etc. because I want to use this as a daily driver and want the confidence of the upgraded mechanicals. I love this car! So ... I am selling some parts from my 1927 2dr Sedan: 1) Complete motor with transmissions attached - straight six - I have a video to demonstrate it runs well. Thanks to help from this forum I converted to downdraft carb because original carb was not functioning. All else original. 2) Front axle complete with wood wheels, functioning brakes, etc. I am taking axle off as a unit - will not separate into pieces - this would be a direct bolt-on replacement for your car. 3) Rear axle - complete with brakes, tires and brake cables, and drive shaft, etc. I am keeping front and rear leaf springs. I cannot ship - you need to figure out how to pick it up - Location New York State (Dutchess County) Would prefer to sell all together to someone on this forum that is restoring same/similar age car text me @ 845-661-6946 or use the messaging within the forum. Here are some pics:

I believe standard. I didn't know if I could post a "for sale" in PreWar - most discussions on topic of restoration - didn't want to upset the forum. Thanks for the advice. Make offer if interested

I pulled a running motor/transmission out of my 27 Buick 2dr Sedan today. Will be upgrading entire drivetrain. I am considering selling the following: 1) front axle setup with excellent brakes, hubs, wood wheels and tires 2) Complete motor/transmission - 6 cylinder - running and tranny/clucth shifts fine ( I converted the intake to downdraft and have 2 barrel ) 3) Rear Axle/driveshaft/wheels, hubs, brakes, tires $3000 for all - I am keeping all suspension parts. Will consider seling to the right home. If not will keep for next owner to restore to original. I want upgraded drivetrain to create an everyday driver. Location NY State call 845-661-6946 if you are serious and have capability to pickup - I can't ship Thanks

Thanks the oil press gauge is showing pressure and I opened the shuttlecock and oil did come out.

Thanks While it isn't original the downdraft seems to work fine. I just finished installing a very simple setup for the linkage. So now the gas pedal controls the carb. Now that I have that I am going to hide the 6 volt fuel pump inside an old vacuum fuel pump (I have an extra one that the insides are rusted out) so it will appear as though the gas line still feeds through the old canister. Then on to clean out of the gas tank.

Thanks great suggestions. The outside of the tank looks solid but I fear what might be inside. Looks easy enough to remove so I will take your advice. The hardest thing may be to find a sunny day this time of year in ny!!!

Got my 27 running this past weekend. used a temporary gas tank from a lawn mower to make sure I had clean gas to the carb. When I bought the car it had been sitting for at least 7 years ( last registration) but don't know how long gas has been in the tank. Gauge at tank shows 1/4 full? How do I test and/or clean the gas tank to ensure it is ok?

Thanks - the video my daughter took is too large. Need to down sample -

Leif no problem I will take pics with doors open but not sure what measurement you are looking for please describe and I will get you the info.

Got my 27 Buick running yesterday. Did not want to let it run too long as I am not sure if the oil pump is working correctly. The pressure gauge does show movement but not sure if it is accurate. Can someone tell me if there is a simple test to do to make sure the engine is getting the oil it needs? What steps should I take to clean out the old oil pump? Thanks in advance previous advice from this forum lead me to the downdraft solution which works very good.

It runs! Thanks to all of the people above who gave advice. If flipped the manifold, installed a rochester 1 barrel, 6 volt pump and a regulator. Turned on the ignition, hit the starter button on the floor and wamo she purred like a kitten! I really appreciate the help. Now I need to go back and make some of the temporary connections look more real. I took video and will try to up load later.

Ok now I will show my ignorance - just purchased a Rochester 1 barrel carb and a 6 volt fuel pump. Looks like the carb base is close enough that it should work fine on the intake manifold. Now for the dumb question - the carb has two connections fuel line ( that one I understand) but the second at the base next to the idler screw is for vacuum i think? For those of you that have gone down this road what should I do here? Plug it or connect vacuum line originally used to run the fuel pump? Or something else. Sorry this is all new for me so this may be a real dumb question but that is why I joined this forum. Thanks in advance.

OK - decided to try the down draft solution. Removed the updraft shaft, the horizontal heat tube and of course with all of that the "Marvel-ous" carburetor. Flipped the intake manifold as the "pros" suggest - and low and behold I have am ready to purchase a carb and fuel pump! Still need to close-up the two exhaust ports left from this. Many have sugeested single barrel from a stove-bolt six - does anyone have a model number for this rochester carb? Thanks again to all those providing input - the owners manual would never have suggested this!