JouniK

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About JouniK

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    Riviera Cruiser
  • Birthday 09/16/1970

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  1. Thanks guys! Jim, I´m just waisting them . I drive such short distances and use the air suspension too much that the alternator is not keeping the battery charged.. J
  2. Hi! I need a more powerfull alternator for my 1963 Riviera. I already have a 1-wire alternator installed, but its not giving enough amps. I was thinking about using some later model alternator, all I need to do is to try and find one with correct case so it fits with out modifications. Wiring is no problem. Any suggestion which one to use? Would this one work? http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALTERNATOR-CS130-CHEVEROLET-OLDMOBILE-BUICK-REMAN-/171072583021?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d4b8756d&vxp=mtr Thanks! J
  3. Thanks! But I think I messed it up myself.. I red here that there should be an O-ring between the master cyl. and the booster. There was none so I put one there... Now I took it of, seems like everything works. J
  4. After further investigating the problem I noticed the brake pedal sometimes stays down. Not everytime but when it does, I can lift it with my foot. When this happens, the brakes are on too.. J
  5. Hmm, now the brakes are binding. I drove 15 miles and noticed that the front wheel was so hot the grease from the bearing was running.. The other wheels were also hot, but not like the one front wheel. So my guess is that all the brakes are binding--> something wrong with the master cylinder maybe. I did not adjust the brakes as they were working fine, all the hose are new. The master cylinder and the booster are from 67 Buick, remanufactured by Cardone. Could it be that master cylinder pushrod is not adjusted properly? I did not touch it, I just took the master cyl. and the booster apart, painted them and put them back torgether. J
  6. The only thing missing from my pump was the fluid So I had to do nothing exept find a fluid container. J
  7. Ok, my conversion is done and working. I used the original juction block: The original lines front, the one going back is now going to the master cylinder. I drilled and tapped the connection for the old master cylinder line, it now has a 1/4 NTP thread and a coupler to accept the original brake light pressure switch. The brakes work great! Jouni
  8. Thanks Jim. But I messed it up already Everything else went ok but I ruined the thread in the brass juction block. So I need to search for a new one. I think I´m going to use t-juction with 3 3/8 threads for the front brakes. I already made a completely new line for the rear brakes so thats ok. Too bad they sell metric fittings here also, M10 x 1,25 is close to 3/8, guess how I know that.. J
  9. AND can I re-use the distributor block from 63? I was thinking about removing the brake pipe coming from the rear and connecting that to the new master cylinder (rear). Then I´ll connect the dist. block to master cylinder (front) and I´ll connect the brake light switch to the open port. Does this sound like it would work? The other fittings are 1/8 (?) but what is the size of the bigger one in the new 67 dual master? Thanks! J
  10. Thanks Ed, I got them both from RockAuto. There was no o-ring between the (assebled)master cylinder and booster, I guess I need one? J
  11. Thanks Ed, but the one from ebay offers kit for drum/drum, disc/drum, disc/disc, so thats not the problem. But as You mentioned, the OE parts are a bit easier to find (cheaper also ..). The problem is that I live here on the other side of the globe, and I haven´t found a company that ships to international addresses.. Here´s the one I need: Buy Cardone Vacuum Power Brake Booster with Master Cylinder - Remanufactured 50-1104 at Advance Auto Parts J
  12. Both the master cylinder and the booster are leaking, so I´m looking for new replacements. Any recommendations? Here´s one option: 1963 64 65 66 Buick Riviera Power Brake Booster Kit | eBay Thanks! J