john ullrich

Here you go (kind of dark in garage) Ben, now get going on the Rambler....

Sorry, forgot Chris at the crankshaft shop for welding material to the crank journals and polishing the journals back to original specs.

Another Brush is back running and on the road..... This is the basket case, scored jug, motor missing piston, no timer, magneto blown, melted broken oiler,....just fired up engine. Thanks to club members and friends, Bill Westervelt for your technical wisdom, Bill Erskine for your talent and machining and repair of the oiler and the new Brush radiator shell, Mike Grunewald for your idea of fitting the Model B John Deere aluminum piston and rings and your cranking ability, DKB machining for re- creating the new piston and valves and guides, KW coil of Rockford for rebuilding the Bosch U1 Magneto, and Bobs engine shop for boring and balancing the flywheel. The driveway is covered in ice and snow here in Northern Illinois, and currently 10 degrees out, but never the less another Brush is on the road again (well at least the driveway).

Congratulations on your "HOT ROD" finish. Brush would have been proud to see the conversion. John Ullrich 1909 BC 1910 D

Wasn't the Brush pump motor that got shown from Hawaii in the news letter a two cylinder? Can't remember. John Ullrich

I have attached the photos of the connector link for the DU1 magneto. The inserts are at a 90 degree position which allows the "ears" from the shaft connector and the engine connector to interlock.

Thanks Layden B , I totally get Henrys approach to the coil, battery, timer system. On the T you switch over to mag and run off the same timer. I also am unaware of being able to operate the Bosch Mag thru a battery-coil ignition and then switch over to mag as on a T thru the same timer. That was the question to the forum....does any one have a mag system and a battery coil system on their car and if so are there two separate timers which is the only way that I believe it could work. It would require two plugs and two separate timers one each for each system...coil or mag. Scott it sounds as if your car was equipped that way. Hence the two plug set up and the switch with a battery and mag designation..My switch has a two position battery key and is a brush switch. But my car only has the mag and no timer. So....the question remains does any one know if it is possible to use the point system in the Bosch mag to run in addition a coil battery system for start? Scott the connection in the front of your Mag is for the ground wire that goes to the switch on the floor board which will turn off the engine. You wire from there to the switch and then to a ground on the engine [i use the cover bolt for the rod inspection plate]. Your also right about the connector for your mag, it interlocks in the piece you have and connects to the piece on the shaft. Interestingly, the woodruff key in the shaft is not used for the connector. It was designed to be used for a chain drive application as the same Mag is used on early motor cycle engines. Mag still in shop will post picture of the connector when I get it. Thanks guys, John

Scott, that has to be the answer...two spark plugs, the one over the intake would be for the start from the battery-coil ignition and then a switch to the mag side and the plug over the exhaust valve is for mag. My car has only one plug the exhaust does not have a hole for the plug. Does your DU1 also have a set of points in the front with an advance and retard ? Then separate a timer for the ignition with or without advance and retard? I would think that advance and retard would then only be on the mag side after you start you switch to mag side and then advance spark or retard accordingly. The coupler is an easy deal. I will send some photos as soon as I get it out of the shop. The shaft on the mag is coned and one portion of the coupler bolts onto the mag cone end. the coupler is a three piece set up...one fits the shaft...one in the center and one which is pinned with a drift pin on the output from the cam gear... they are round with interlocking "ears". John

The Bosch DU1 mag on the Model D was found to have a bad coil, currently having a new coil rewound from the core, and will be ready to start. My question is do any of you have a mag set up with a traditional timer coil battery ignition? My coil box has a two key position switch and it is an original box and switch, so I am thinking it can be done, just not sure how. I got the car in a basket, so no history there. The mag was a rare option as it was $40.00. There is only one spark plug not two. Thanks for any input...John Ullrich

what is the price of the Mag switch John Ullrich

Truly a great gentleman and a wonderful conversationalist. He had spent much time with me in the discussion of my two Brush projects. My heart goes out to his family. He will be sorely missed. John

Location ..Price? John Ullrich

What series and or model transmission is being considered?

Original Model 4 Repair Manual 1919-1923 in great condition...$45.oo John Ullrich 815 403 3803

In HCAA forum there is a Brush for sale in AZ for $11,000. I have no affiliation, just thought I would let others know. John Ullrich

btt

Original repair manual for the Overland Model 4....1919-1923 No rips or tears. Complete, just a few greasy thumb prints on a few pages. $45.00 includes shipping. John Ullrich 815 403 3803

BRUSH F26...PM me and perhaps I could talk with you on the phone, John

Brush f 26....What year and model Brush do you have? The transmission adjustments are best done with the car on stands and running. You should be able to shift into low by the actuation of the shift lever thru the guide in the casting on the shift mount. Think of your pedal as a clutch and a brake. There should be a pedal adjustment that allows the feathering of the low to high and as you release the pedal it should fall into high. As you depress the pedal when the car is in high gear and running it should take the transmission out of gear as the brakes are applied simultaneously. The notches on the side of the pedal should lock into a plate on the floor board along side the slot for the pedal to move and be pressed into the lock down position. ( I

Looking for a dash drip oiler, I have the tank. Any out there? John Ullrich 815 403 3803

Looking for the Dash Mounted engine oiler, @ 6 inch in length with a glass sight tube. I have the tank. Anybody out there? John Ullrich 815 403 3803

Looking for an engine oiler for my 1910 Model D Brush. Anybody out there? John Ullrich 815 403 3803

The hubs could have been out of adjustment after you put the car together, assuming you took it apart for paint etc. The chassis adjustment rods will square the chassis. Check the rods at the hubs as well after you are sure the chassis is square. These hub adjusting rods are done individually after you have gotten the chains on....there is a lock nut which will allow the hub to be moved back or forward as necessary to even out the chain tension. This will have to be done again after using the car a while, especially if you are using new chain because of stretch. Too loose is better than to tight. I use a lube for garage doors made by wd40 apply and wipe off excess with a rag after application so its not all over the car. After you've done all this Jack the car up and place on stands all the way around and run in gear so you can observe the chains. If you see that they appear to be "flying up" at the top of the hub tighten them just a little more. When you get this accomplished you will find the car will shift more easily as well.

I have A MODEL BC and a MODEL D. I AM USING REPLACEMENT CHAINS #60 AGRICULTURE. I LEAVE SLACK OF @ ONE INCH IN THE CHAINS, JUST ENOUGH TO PUT IN THE CONNECTOR LINK AND HAVE A LITTLE "PUSH" LEFT. BE SURE YOUR CHASSIS IS SQUARE BY THE ADJUSTING OF THE RODS, THIS PREVENTS THE THROWING OF ONE OR THE OTHER CHAIN IF IT IS OUT OF SQUARE. (DO THIS BEFORE INSTALLING THE CHAINS)

:DThe piece is the top portion that mounts and supports the coil spring in the the car, they bolt thru the wood frame with a carriage bolt to a lower assembly holding the coil spring. They are present on my 09 Model BC and on my 10 Model D. It is part number 728D of it is right and 729D if it is left. Hope this helps Ben, How's the Rambler project going? John Ullrich 815 403 3803