franc944

So I knew the car needed new strut-rod bushings, subframe bushings and bolts as well as transmission cooler lines. My transmission guy suggestions I replace the Whole sub frame from the parts car due to a little rust. What do you guys think? Should I buy a used sub frame and keep my parts car a roller? Anyone in CT want to sell me a sub-frame?

I am sorry. I could not find the A/C lines sold new anywhere. I did not realize they were unique to the Reatta I figured like the compressor and evaporator they were the same used on the Riviera and Trofeo etc.

It's coming along Ac now blows cold Changing the hood, supports, latch n cable. Tranny parts are in

On the last Reatta vert I restored I used the same heavy cut, medium, and fine compound and rotary buffer as used on all the body panels. I like Smartwax and Mcguires compounds but any brand should work just as well. All those kits are are compounds. If you already have compounds and a buffer for paint do t waste your money. It came out like new. I did not buy any special kits.

Yes Thank you John This weekend I am not available I am camping with the scouts. I would like to meet up next time.

I got the $180 Pioneer master rebuild kit from Rock auto and it looks like it came with the axel seals so will do. In my quest to be thorough I am changing the ac condenser and accumulator n orifice n o rings. I would like to get new ac lines but my search tells me you can't find them. Doesn't anyone have a solution? Is original old ones or custom made new the only way to go?

There does not appear to be any oil leaks and it has been my experience to leave alone things like a rear main seal that are not broken because disturbing things may make problems worse in the long run but while I have the transmission out should I replace the rear main seal and oil pan gasket? It is a 100,000 mile car but like I said it isn't leaking yet but I know from experience these parts are cheap and if I put in the rebuilt trans and I get an oil leak later from the rear main or oil pan that it is much more work in the long run. What else should I change while the trans is out?

I am in. I am just south of Hartford. Rocky Hill Pm me or reply with a link to your club or let me know how to join please. Thanks

The cooling system is in perfect condition. I flushed and replaced coolant and thermostat anyway but there was no rust. Water pump looks to have already been replaced. It did need a new radiator cap. Exhaust looks great and looks like it was also replaced though I will be doing the O2 sensor for good measure. I installed the suggested aftermarket power steering cooler because the original was rusted through and the bracket was broken. I have a parts car I can get an original power steering cooler off of that is original. Who votes for used original power steering cooler and who votes for shiny new aftermarket cooler?

I just got some bad news from my transmission builder. Broken parts have to come from GM. It could take two weeks to get them. That will give me time to do the front struts and treat the rust on the bottom on the car and swap the hood and latch over

Greeting all. I thought I would start a new post on the restoration progress of my 1990 Select 60 I bought this car on Ebay from Tom Benvie in Massachusetts. This was originally a Chicago car that spend time in LA California before coming to Massachusetts and now Connecticut. I am starting with getting the car running. So I have replaced every fuel line, brake line, and steering component due to leaks as well as rear struts. Though the brake lines were rotted, there is remarkably little rust under the car and I will treat those spots with POR 15 and a chassis black. I sent the transmission from a running parts car out to be rebuilt and once I have that back we should have a running car and can then begin the bodywork and interior restoration. This will be a rolling restoration.

Thank you for the help and advice. I will futz with it. So do I have the distinction of having the worst condition Select 60 on this forum?

So this weekend I finally got to begin work on my Select 60 resoration. I bought this car in December on ebay from Tom Benvie in Mass. 1st step was I washed the whole thing in Simple Green and pressure washed the body and degreased the engine bay. My plan is to get it running perfect and then bring it to the body shop for paint work and I will do the interior last. The trunk will not open! I tried the fob, key and glove compartment button. Nothing. Based on the key not working I suspect the lock linkage is disconnected / broken. It is a convertible so I do not know how to get into the trunk through the car. I have a parts coupe so I don't care what I break because I can replace it but I don't know where to begin to get this thing opened. Typically I would drill the lock but on this car the latch is on the trunk so that won't work. Any suggestions?

I found a site that sells the ez top with glass heated rear window for 550. My local upholstery shop guy says 450 for the install. $50 an hour times 9 hours book rate. I know you guys are going to say it's on the low-end. But Is that I too good to be too true price? Also I'm reading a lot about an optional fifth covered bow. There is no extra cost for this what is it and do I need it?

Should i I start a new thread with my restoration? has anyone ever ordered a Acme top from rock auto? the price is right

I picked it up today. I will do the 60 right

Guilty the select 60 tranny swap will be my winter project. i will buy a rebuilt one rather than use the parts car one. i plan to do it on my back with air tools. it is not my first rodeo. I recall they come out easier than they go in.

There are companies like Katzkin Roadwire and Acc that will make a gm white leather upholstery kit for the Rivi for about $650 - including the back seat. The reatta is essentially the same seats sans the rear bench is it not? I did one for my 88 t-top mustang. Just hog rings and it looks factory. I had a local pro re make the driver seat leather on my 85 Vette which was hard to match because it was 80's bronze gold. Came out perfect and that cost $400 total to have done professionally. What else do you guys think is a budget blower?

What at makes you guys think the TB select 60 needs a rotisserie restoration to be worth anything? About 3 years ago I bought a plain Jane 1990 white /red convertible 65,000 mile car here in Connecticut for $1,500 I put about $500 into it to address electrical problems. Cluster bcm alternator. I even got the ac working. I wet sanded buffed and re-dyed the leather and sold it for $7,000 on eBay. I think the tb select 60 needs a top and tranny rebuild and a good going through and should be worth $10,000 parts are dirt cheap and it came with a parts car. Even if it needs paint and a long block if it's running and looking good isn't it worth $6k minimum? the car fax was clean i wouldn't buy it to make money but what am I missing guys? the last reatta vert I did was the easiest I ever worked on. Is it the rust that concerns you? I regretted selling that car because it grew on me. thanks in advance for the advice.

I did the driver side last night. Went in like butter no wrestleing parts in like I thought just raised and lowered control arms with floor jack until holes lined up. Removing sway bar first with air impact gun helped tramendously. Passenger side a different story as I noticed inner CV joint on axel I just replaced in May was slinging grease every where so I called Napa and ordered a warranty replacement. So now I cant finish the job until next week. Old lower control arm bushings on 85,000 mile California car did not look as bad as I thought once I had them off. The bad ride quality and out of control after hitting bumps must have all been from shot struts. What is the torque spec on strut top mount bolts? I tried 45 lbs and thought bolts were going to snap so I just went by feel.

I got the old struts out and they were in bad shape, seals gone all the oil was long gone. I was going to just do lower control arms. I am glad I spend the extra $100 on a pair of KYB and mounts.

Doh! I did not mark the cam bolts on the strut! So I need to eyeball the alignment until I get to the shop. So far struts removed and I decided to bring to my buddy's shop to have him compress the springs and swap to new struts. Reassembly next Monday night.

Try seafoam. Could be carbon.