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franc944

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Posts posted by franc944

  1. On 6/17/2019 at 6:12 PM, padgett said:

    Trying to remember if there is a way through the license plate lights but why not just apply a jump box to the glove box switch ?

     

    ps, 'verts do not have a passthrough but can usually pop the tonneau with a jump box but glove box switch is easier.

    Picture update of body shop prep for paint 

    87071924-3286-415F-9000-6B0CEDD9A8FA.jpeg

    • Like 1
  2. 4 minutes ago, Ronnie said:

     

    There is a manual release on the latch in the trunk. It is the orange lever you see in the photo.  You should be able to get at it through the pass through door behind the seats.

     

    trunk_latch-2.JPG.98a41ca34d6dce1f35f333edaa2f0e80.JPG

    Have you got a pic handy of where the abs module I need is in the coupe trunk?

  3. 13 minutes ago, franc944 said:

    Small update.  

     

    The bumpers come off this week to see what if anything needs to be replaced to make the bumpers line up correctly.  

     

    I’d  like to replace the moldings.  Does anyone have new old stock or refurbished?

     

    Does anyone one have any tips on getting the parts car trunk open with no engine trans fuse box or battery in it?  I need the abs module from the trunk for another project.  

    51E5443A-7B96-4C4F-B59F-E688674DEE17.jpeg

    4BC04DC4-70F5-4BC4-AA07-2586BCD21D4F.jpeg

    Ok no one freak out over the body filler. The metal was properly repaired and there is just a thin amount on there as is appropriate.  No rust being covered.  

  4. Small update.  

     

    The bumpers come off this week to see what if anything needs to be replaced to make the bumpers line up correctly.  

     

    I’d  like to replace the moldings.  Does anyone have new old stock or refurbished?

     

    Does anyone one have any tips on getting the parts car trunk open with no engine trans fuse box or battery in it?  I need the abs module from the trunk for another project.  

    51E5443A-7B96-4C4F-B59F-E688674DEE17.jpeg

    4BC04DC4-70F5-4BC4-AA07-2586BCD21D4F.jpeg

  5. 23 minutes ago, Ronnie said:

    Looks like a nice car.  By setting the price in the ad at $15,000 he probably scared off potential bidders by making them think they would have to bid more than it's worth to meet the reserve.

     I  may be fascinated and perplexed because I might need to sell a Reatta convertible one day. 

     

    I thought by now everyone knows people ask $12,000 to $15,000 for those cars and then take $6,000 , $7,000 or less 

    • Like 1
  6. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F264113735692

     

    Does anyone know this black Vert in CT?

     

    Does anyone know why there was no bidders beside myself and one other?

     

    Has Reatta supply exceeded demand recently?

     

     I must admit I was one of the two bidders. 

     

    If I didn’t already own two 1990 Reatta convertibles I would go pick this one up.  

     

    I’m not saying it should have sold for $10,000 but it should have been bid up over $2,000!

     

    Am I that biased because I like these cars?

  7. 2 minutes ago, Barney Eaton said:

    I repair/rebuild antenna.........I prefer to do yours,  that way you get back what you had.   This is more important to people with original cars.

    I will sell you a rebuilt antenna outright,  but if you are going to send me your bad one for credit....I might as well repair it....,  I can turn it around in a couple of days.

    The repair charge is $60,  they are completely disassembled, cleaned,  inspected, mast straightened, a steel cable that is plastic coated replaces the original plastic cord that is probably broken.

    they are lubed, assembled and tested.......return shipping is $15

    If I have one available (for Reatta, or whatever vehicle) the outright sale price is $150 plus $15 shipping.

     

     

    I sent you a PM Barney.  

     

    Give me info on where to ship my antenna to be rebuilt please.  

  8. 4 hours ago, Barney Eaton said:

    Glad you are posting the stories and progress of your two cars.

    For the benefit of other newer Reatta owners,   sometimes the color of the car gets misrepresented.......

    One of the most often confused color is grey.......from the beginning in 1988 grey was available....in '88 and '89 it was called Pewter grey and the paint code was 87.

    In '90 and '91 it was slightly lighter and called Gunmetal Gray Metallic and the paint code was 85.

    Also from the beginning Steriling Silver Metallic (-paint code 13) was available for all 4 years.

    This is were the confusion happens.......some owners that have only seen a few Reatta, and have a grey/silver car may call them grey or silver when in fact they may actually have the other color.

    The big difference is in the number made....every year there were many more Silver cars than Gray ones.   So it would be more common to find a Silver Reatta.

    Here is the ratio of Silver/Gray Reattas for each year 1988= 418/116, 1989 = 549/359, 1990 = 641/448, 1991 = 89/52

    The simple way to verify your color,  and to get the correct color of touch up paint is to look at the Service Parts label in the trunk,  except for very early 1988 cars which had this label on the underside of the deck lid,  all the other Reattas

    had the Service Parts label in the trunk, next to the spare tire ( you must raise the insulation on the right side of the spare to find it)

    I have attached a picture of a typical Service Parts label..........this label gives you the DNA of your car.   It will tell you if it had 16 way seats,  CD player, even the color of the pinstripe.   A complete listing is on Ronnie's "Reattaowners" site.

    Most labels will have 4-5 lines and near the end you will find the color codes ..... the exterior color will end with a "U" then the color.   So Gray would be 87U on a '88-89  or  85U on a 90-91......all year silver cars will be 13U

     

    The sample picture attached I used because it is nice and clear......it happens to be a 1991 white (40U) convertible.......at the very bottom are some other numbers of importance, in this case U8554 is the paint code if you are buying

    paint at a paint store, I think that is the PPG paint code,  the 40U is GM's paint code.

     

    I suggest you take a picture of the label and keep it with your Reatta records.......it makes good reference material if you need to verify something on your car.

    MB900376.JPG

    So what is your professional opinion on the color of my car without me looking it up?

  9. I race lemons and I restore Reattas. 

     

    These two are not the same hobby!

     

    I prefer rear wheel drive and a manual for racing. My 1978 Fiat 131 will have a 1996 Mazda Miata Drivetrain !

     

    My slice of of advice is I believe the Reatta transmission will be the weakest link. 

     

    Don’t forget the new fire suppression system required for 2019 season!

     

    Let me know if you have any questions on rules or reatta quirks.  

    489C546E-1EA0-483E-ADF0-F1608E3DF165.jpeg

    • Like 1
  10. 2 hours ago, Kevin M said:

    You two Long Islanders want to meet up sometime? I’m in westchester by white plains. I saw the grey vert on Craigslist and it looked good. The ss60 restoration is very nice to see. Not too many people seem to be restoring these cars yet. 

    I’m a Connectican 🤘

     

    That Select 60 paint is supposed to be done by Xmas

     

    My upholstery guy is hard at work HAND  stitching the Gray Vert back window!  Also not quite done yet.  

     

    So so essentially I am restoring two reatta verts at the same time

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  11. 4 minutes ago, MRJBUICK said:

    My upholstery guy is coming to stitch the window tomorrow.  

    I’ll post pics of how the back window repair comes out 

    4 minutes ago, MRJBUICK said:

     

     

    Franc944

    Congrats on the new purchase. i looked that car over when it was at our Long Island Chapter show.

    glad to see it end up in a collectors stable. i know it needed some work but i was really impressed with the undercarriage and how tight the car felt when i drove it.

    feel free to PM me 

    Good Luck with it i think you got a real good buy

    check out our website libuickclub.org under events / other club outings from Nov there is a shot of the car

    maybe you could make it down to one of our shows on the island or ill see you sometime up north.

    Marty

     

  12. So I used engine degreaser and power washed the parts car sub frame down

    I wiped thewhole thing down with solvent. I realized I had enough surface rust to use up some POR15 I had on hand.

    I scrubbed it all down with a wire brush and blew it off with air compressor and wiped again.

    2 coats of por15 and the. I will spray it with vht gm satin black engine paint.

    Then to slap on some new parts.

    I still need tranny cooler lines.

    post-123917-0-57088000-1435449539_thumb.

    • Like 1
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