misterc9

I bought a 60 Impala in 1968. The expired NY inspection sticker was at the top center of the windshield. When I got it inspected the new sticker was installed in the left lower corner of the windshield. Stickers issued in 1968 said 1969 on them. My father bought a new 53 Plymouth. He didn't have to have it inspected until 1958 when it was five model years old, then every year after that. This changed around 1970 or 1971 when all cars including brand new ones had to be inspected every year.

I remember them being in the passenger side lower corner in the fifties. In the middle sixties or so the sticker was moved to the upper center of the windshield above the mirror. In 67 or 68 it moved to the left lower corner where it still is today. I don't remember the sticker ever being on the vent window.

What kind of car is this?

Are you trying to get the distributor back into the magic spot where the car will start? Or is it running and you are trying to get it tuned up and timed just right? Did you mark the distributor base to the engine before you removed it ? Did you note the rotor position ? Was the engine turned over with the distributor out ? Tell us more and we can answer all your questions.

The drain plug probably won't stay tight over time. A soft copper washer, maybe from a plumbing or hydraulic supply house might do it.

You would need to use an import-export broker to convert the Mexican paperwork for sale in the USA. I don't know what type of title you would end up with. That's a four door sedan not a hardtop.

In NY any auto store or garage that sells oil has to accept old oil for recycling whether you bought it there or not. They will accept up to five gallons at a time at no charge.Some places will accept more. They have to have a sign outside saying so. The same goes for batteries in NY.

58 Pontiac

GMs of this era suffered from bad connections at the harness plug where the fuel sender plugs into the car's harness. This often caused intermittent fuel pump action or no start at all. Most new fuel pump sender assemblies include a new harness plug repair kit to splice in and fix this problem.

Maybe you are hearing the air ride pump running. The fuel pump should not run more than a few seconds without the engine turning over and giving an ignition spark. The fuel pressure gauge is a must for this type of no start. A noid light to test power to the injectors would be another must.

The car is in Park as they're driving.

Lowes has a good selection of Craftsman tools and honors the lifetime guarantee. I have already exchanged a few tools there. Easy and quick.

That price is for a set of four. The spare tire and wheel is $537 more.

Is the pump mounted lower than the tank? They work best that way because it will be self priming and will only have to push fuel and not have to pull.

Those lines should be double flare tubing. Easy to make if you have a double flare kit.

Chevy V8s in that era did not use gaskets between the head and exhaust manifold. Aftermarket gaskets were available but not usually necessary. When assembling they put grease on the mating surfaces. Heat from running sealed it up good. I can't swear your particular car was made that way though.

We went there more than once, Gaslight Village , the rides and the auto museum. We once saw Howard Hughes' air tight sealed germ proof car in 1980 or 81. I have pictures but don't know where they are right now.

The 60 Buick starter was activated by flooring the gas pedal with the key on. There was a switch on the carburetor connected to the throttle that activated the starter. The switch also prevented the starter from engaging when the engine was running.1960 was the last year for this. Packard used a similar setup.

Yes it can be done. If the battery is flat dead and you hook up the charger backward ,negative lead to positive post and positive lead to negative post. The battery will charge with reverse polarity. I have seen this done by accident.

I had an early 58 Pacer with vacuum wipers and a new booster pump. The wipers slowed to almost nothing on every hill. I believe vacuum wipers were standard on Ranger and Pacer and electric was optional at extra cost.

That second key scam would really make me mad. The whole thing is maddening. Those devices that can shut a car down remotely have been around for a long time.

I have a 1995 Champion catalog. It says Pontiac 1932-1954 all models RJ12C gap .025 . It says RJ19LM is colder, then RJ17LM is colder yet, then RJ6C is coldest. Any of these numbers without the R would be good too. Without the C will also work. Also J11C. Don't get ones with a Y in the number. Maybe this will help

You might want to take the double switch out of the circuit. Then see what happens. If things start working then the double switch is bad.

That looks like brake dust from metallic pads. A good alloy wheel cleaner might take care of that. Maybe more than one application using a small plastic brush. Don't get any on the plastic center. As stated above alloy wheels were an option on those cars.

Some people have more money than brains but at least he has that " trusted" shop to rely on.