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About markrush

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  • Birthday 02/21/1954

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  1. My 6 cyl. '48 was the same. I had to pump and pump the accelerator and use carb cleaner to start it if it sat for any length of time. Then after starting it one day, I saw a lot of gas leaking out of the fuel pump. I shut it off immediately. I replaced the fuel pump and it started fine after that. I think the gasket was slowly leaking for a long time and the gas was leaking out of the supply line. There is a place that restores the original fuel pumps, which are no longer available, so do not throw yours out. If you are in a hurry, you can get the glass bowl type from Andy Berbaum. It adapts
  2. [sorry if this is a bit elementary for this forum; this is what I wrote up for local postings.] This is a 1948 Chrysler Windsor 4-door Sedan with rear suicide doors. The body is a C-38. Chrysler produced this model unchanged from 1946 to early 1949. In mid-1949 they went to the “derby” style that was common in the early ‘50’s. This was the actual “Chrysler” line, the luxury cars of the Chrysler Corporation’s various divisions. It was a well above the entry-level Plymouth and the Dodge and even the DeSoto lines. Within this Chrysler division the Windsor was the top seller, accounting for most o
  3. I finally got around to replacing the fuel pump. I went ahead and installed the glass-bowl model I got from from Andy Bernbaum. It went in easily. All I had to do to allow for the mounting of the heat shield was remove one screw in the new unit; the threaded rod from the heat shield had the same threads so there was no issue at all with the pump itself. The only issue I did have was the flexible fuel line that attaches to the fuel pump inlet. I bought one from AB but it was too long. I tried to flex it in an arc shape but it split all the way through to the core. I suspect it had been on the s
  4. By the way, the Shop Manual does seem to picture a glass bowl fuel pump on p. 130, but the parts manual seems to show something else on p. 233 (where it references 14-73-2 which leads to the part number I gave above on p. 252). Page 238 also looks like what I have.
  5. The fuel pump on my 1948 Chrysler Windsor sedan was leaking gas, so I ordered a new one from Andy Bernbaum. They sent me a glass-bowl model. When I took off my heat shield, I noticed mine was not a glass bowl model and the threaded rod from the heat shield had no place to attach to the glass bowl model as it did on mine. My fuel pump would have had an original part number of 683 056 (parts book p. 252). Is this suppopsed to be a replacement equivalent? If not, do you know of a source for the right pump if they do not have it? Is this is just an error by Andy Bernbaum? I have seen some referenc
  6. I wanted to print out those posts on fluid drive in order to create my own resource, because I think I read through them several years ago. I wanted to file them as a personal resource. but I could not find anything with the advanced search. Very frustrating.
  7. Did these skins you used come with the bowl-shape already formed? I can't imaging trying to bend a flat piece to a convex surface without some serious wrinkles showing.
  8. I have3 related questions about the chrome on my 1948 Chrysler sedan: 1) Is all the trim on my car chrome, or is any of it stainless steel? 2) What do you recommend as far as polishing compounds for chrome and/or stainless go? 3) How does one go about replacing glass, and replacing , or restoring the chrome trim around the four wing windows (the trim that is attached to the glass itself)? Can this be detached and rechromed when new glass is installed? How? By heat gun?
  9. Does anyone have any knowledge about the hubcap "skins" that are offered on eBay for $60.00 9for the 11"; they offer the 10" for $50). They say you uncrimp the old skin along the rim and replace it with the new skin. I'd be interested in any experience you might have with them as to quality, installation, etc.
  10. There is a set of reproduction cowl mirrors on eBay right now. The listing is titled: "46-48 Chrysler. 1 new pair of Reproduction Cowl Mirrors" They are currently at $350.00 with 3 days left in the auction. Description says they were never installed, perhaps for the reason Joe gives. I'm guessing they were from Jay Fischer. I called a year or two ago and was told they were not likely to be available again. Even $350 is not in my budget, but be aware that price will likely go way up seconds before the auction ends, because bidders for rare parts do not want to tip their hat early and get into a
  11. I feel like an idiot, but I WAS driving it wrong. When Rusty described the high-low range I almost wrote right back that he must have described them backwards, but I hesitated because he seems to know everything about these cars. I read that at work and immediately looked up the manual on the Imperial Club site, then checked my owner's manual when I got home. I have been driving it wrong for three years (fortunately, very few miles due to down time for needed repairs)! I was told wrong by the guy I bought it from and as many times as I have seen descriptions of the operation I just skimmed rig
  12. My son and I checked the transmission fluid and it was fine. We experimented with the idle speed as well. We were guestimating the RPMs, but higher RPMs just made the transmission grind and did nothing for the upshifting problem. We did the solinoid/governor check according to the 1949 Chrysler service book on trouble-shooting the hydraulic transmission and the youtube video of the same name. We think the solenoid is fine and the governor is fine, but are still having problems. The wiring is less than a year old and we can't find an electrical problem. We are wondering if it is a hydraulic or
  13. I'm headed out of town for a few days, but I will check those things out just as soon as I get back. Thank you. The last time I changed the transmission oil I bought some 10W from an ad in WPC News. Is it OK to buy 10W if I can find it at the auto parts store or would that have detergents or other additives that I should avoid?
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