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About markrush

  • Birthday 02/21/1954

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  1. My 6 cyl. '48 was the same. I had to pump and pump the accelerator and use carb cleaner to start it if it sat for any length of time. Then after starting it one day, I saw a lot of gas leaking out of the fuel pump. I shut it off immediately. I replaced the fuel pump and it started fine after that. I think the gasket was slowly leaking for a long time and the gas was leaking out of the supply line. There is a place that restores the original fuel pumps, which are no longer available, so do not throw yours out. If you are in a hurry, you can get the glass bowl type from Andy Berbaum. It adapts with the exchange of one screw in the pump. It will be obvious.
  2. [sorry if this is a bit elementary for this forum; this is what I wrote up for local postings.] This is a 1948 Chrysler Windsor 4-door Sedan with rear suicide doors. The body is a C-38. Chrysler produced this model unchanged from 1946 to early 1949. In mid-1949 they went to the “derby” style that was common in the early ‘50’s. This was the actual “Chrysler” line, the luxury cars of the Chrysler Corporation’s various divisions. It was a well above the entry-level Plymouth and the Dodge and even the DeSoto lines. Within this Chrysler division the Windsor was the top seller, accounting for most of the production in the post-war years. The Windsor was above the Royal in price, but below the strait 8 Saratoga, the New Yorker and certainly the wood body Town and Country. Interestingly, many of the parts on these various early Mopar cars are the same, and some of the Town and Country’s even used the same C-38 body and six-cylinder engine as on this Windsor. This car was out of the reach of most workingmen. This would have been a successful businessman’s or a professional’s car in the day. I believe it is all original except for a repaint that is at least 25 years old. It has been well-maintained, but never restored. It has the original inline six cylinder flathead engine that was standard in all Chrysler cars from the twenties until the hemi came along in the 1950’sThey just kept improving it. It is an extremely reliable engine. They continued to produce them into the ‘70’s for certain industrial applications, so parts are available. This one has 250 cubic inches. It also has the “Fluid Drive” which is a hydraulic coupling between the engine and the transmission. There is no mechanical link between the engine and the drive train! That is one reason these cars drive so smoothly and have lasted so long. The Fluid Drive is bullet proof. The transmission is also unique on these cars. It went by many names on various Chrysler car lines, but in the Chryslers for these years they were called hydraulically operated transmissions (the M-5). They have electrically-operated solenoids that shift the car at the appropriate speed. Once you put it in gear you drove the car like it was an automatic. It is not at all a manual, but not exactly like a modern automatic. It is, however, very easy to operate and they were reliable. Chrysler’s first cars after the war emphasized thrift, reliability, and durability. It took a few years before the car industry realized the post-war trend was toward power and something new every year. I purchased the car in 2011 from its third owner. The car has been in Northern California its whole life. Before I bought it the car’s prior existence was in the wine country around St. Helena. I think the car has been garaged its whole life. It is in very good condition. It is 68 years old, though, so it drives like an old car. It is not a hot rod, and it is not a concourse show car. It was re-sprayed before the early ‘90’s in original black, and it presents well from 20 feet, but has many flaws. The biggest is a section on the roof that obviously cracked soon after application. It is not easy to see because the car sits so high. I don’t think this car shows any evidence of being in a major accident, and the undercarriage has only very slight surface rust. The man who redid the wiring said he didn’t think the engine had ever been out of the car. There is one bubble near the base of the trunk door, but no cancer anywhere. There is some rust on the chrome surrounding the wing windows. You will be hard pressed to find a car of this age with as few rust issues as this one. The biggest issue with the car when I bought it was the old cloth-covered wiring, which was badly frayed, so I bought a complete wiring harness from Y-N-Z ($1,100) and had it professionally installed in 2014. [by countrytraveler at Dodge City, a frequent contributor to this forum]. Every wire is modern, but clad to look like the original cloth-covered wiring. Everything electrical works except the clock and the radio (which powers up, but does not play). It is still a six-volt positive-ground system. The rear axle and differential was removed at the time and rebuilt. The engine was tuned at that time; you can barely hear it at idle. I sandblasted all five rims and had them powder-coated in gloss black before putting on five Coker bias-ply wide-whitewall tires. I recently put in a new fuel pump. The massive amount of chrome is in very good condition for its age. I don’t believe there is a part missing on the entire car. I also have extra parts and hundreds of dollars in literature and manuals. The dash is beautiful, but the soft interior shows its age. There are two areas on the front and rear bench seats with torn upholstery. You can buy headliner, seats, and a carpet kit of high quality for around $1200 (not counting installation) if you were of a mind to replace it. Right now I have Army blankets on the front and rear, and it is very usable; it is a neat old car that gets a lot of attention. A new interior would take it to a whole new level. If this was a Ford or a Chevy, you could not touch a rusted hulk for this money. Because the shifting of these transmissions was slow, they were never hot-rodded or collected. This has just been a well-cared for car. If you are able to tinker on a 68 year old car, this is one that is registered and ready to enjoy while you do so. I am near Angels Camp, California, less than two hours SE of Sacramento. $8,000 OBO. Mark @ (209) 602-2167 Please text or leave a voice mail message and I will get back to you. Say you saw it on AACA, as I am ignoring long-distance requests from Craig's List.
  3. I finally got around to replacing the fuel pump. I went ahead and installed the glass-bowl model I got from from Andy Bernbaum. It went in easily. All I had to do to allow for the mounting of the heat shield was remove one screw in the new unit; the threaded rod from the heat shield had the same threads so there was no issue at all with the pump itself. The only issue I did have was the flexible fuel line that attaches to the fuel pump inlet. I bought one from AB but it was too long. I tried to flex it in an arc shape but it split all the way through to the core. I suspect it had been on the shelf too long. I was able to just reuse the brass fittings on my old line with a piece of fuel line and hose clamps I got at the local auto parts store. It's just as well, as I decided to monitor the condition of my fuel tank with an inline fuel filter I also added to that line. I'll keep the old fuel pump for a possible rebuild down the road.
  4. By the way, the Shop Manual does seem to picture a glass bowl fuel pump on p. 130, but the parts manual seems to show something else on p. 233 (where it references 14-73-2 which leads to the part number I gave above on p. 252). Page 238 also looks like what I have.
  5. The fuel pump on my 1948 Chrysler Windsor sedan was leaking gas, so I ordered a new one from Andy Bernbaum. They sent me a glass-bowl model. When I took off my heat shield, I noticed mine was not a glass bowl model and the threaded rod from the heat shield had no place to attach to the glass bowl model as it did on mine. My fuel pump would have had an original part number of 683 056 (parts book p. 252). Is this suppopsed to be a replacement equivalent? If not, do you know of a source for the right pump if they do not have it? Is this is just an error by Andy Bernbaum? I have seen some references on this site to rebuild kits from Then and Now Automotive. Is that a better route? Also, I have never R&R the fuel pump. The space is very tight and the visibility poor down there. I do not find anything on R&R in the Service Manual (guess it was considered routine). How hard is this and what is involved on getting the mechanical linkage disconnected and connected.
  6. I wanted to print out those posts on fluid drive in order to create my own resource, because I think I read through them several years ago. I wanted to file them as a personal resource. but I could not find anything with the advanced search. Very frustrating.
  7. Did these skins you used come with the bowl-shape already formed? I can't imaging trying to bend a flat piece to a convex surface without some serious wrinkles showing.
  8. I have3 related questions about the chrome on my 1948 Chrysler sedan: 1) Is all the trim on my car chrome, or is any of it stainless steel? 2) What do you recommend as far as polishing compounds for chrome and/or stainless go? 3) How does one go about replacing glass, and replacing , or restoring the chrome trim around the four wing windows (the trim that is attached to the glass itself)? Can this be detached and rechromed when new glass is installed? How? By heat gun?
  9. Does anyone have any knowledge about the hubcap "skins" that are offered on eBay for $60.00 9for the 11"; they offer the 10" for $50). They say you uncrimp the old skin along the rim and replace it with the new skin. I'd be interested in any experience you might have with them as to quality, installation, etc.
  10. There is a set of reproduction cowl mirrors on eBay right now. The listing is titled: "46-48 Chrysler. 1 new pair of Reproduction Cowl Mirrors" They are currently at $350.00 with 3 days left in the auction. Description says they were never installed, perhaps for the reason Joe gives. I'm guessing they were from Jay Fischer. I called a year or two ago and was told they were not likely to be available again. Even $350 is not in my budget, but be aware that price will likely go way up seconds before the auction ends, because bidders for rare parts do not want to tip their hat early and get into a bidding war. They all hope nobody else saw that item they are salivating to get, but eBay is an auction millions of people are attending, and most things go for market price or higher. If you want it make your highest bid what you would have been willing to pay after someone else gets the item.
  11. I feel like an idiot, but I WAS driving it wrong. When Rusty described the high-low range I almost wrote right back that he must have described them backwards, but I hesitated because he seems to know everything about these cars. I read that at work and immediately looked up the manual on the Imperial Club site, then checked my owner's manual when I got home. I have been driving it wrong for three years (fortunately, very few miles due to down time for needed repairs)! I was told wrong by the guy I bought it from and as many times as I have seen descriptions of the operation I just skimmed right past the relative location of high and low ranges. I've been assuming high was up and low was down like I was told. The car works fine other than the nut behind the wheel. What somewhat puzzles me is why I suddenly had trouble with racing at 35MPH in second when I had previously cruised at 50MPH in the same gear.
  12. My son and I checked the transmission fluid and it was fine. We experimented with the idle speed as well. We were guestimating the RPMs, but higher RPMs just made the transmission grind and did nothing for the upshifting problem. We did the solinoid/governor check according to the 1949 Chrysler service book on trouble-shooting the hydraulic transmission and the youtube video of the same name. We think the solenoid is fine and the governor is fine, but are still having problems. The wiring is less than a year old and we can't find an electrical problem. We are wondering if it is a hydraulic or mechanical problem. My son thinks we should flush the transwmission and refill in case there is some sludge blocking the works. Here is what happens: When in high range the RPMs go way up when I accelerate to 14-15 MPH. I back off the accelerator and we can hear the usual "clunk," and we think it has shifted. It seems like it is in a higher gear at that time as it does accelerate but the engine is screraming by 30-35 MPH. It is like it has shifted into a higher gear but needs another gear that is not there. Does anyone know what this indicates?
  13. I'm headed out of town for a few days, but I will check those things out just as soon as I get back. Thank you. The last time I changed the transmission oil I bought some 10W from an ad in WPC News. Is it OK to buy 10W if I can find it at the auto parts store or would that have detergents or other additives that I should avoid?
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