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About 29Plymouth

  • Birthday 05/27/1959

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  1. At the Wichita, Kan., swap meet in early Feb'y, I ran into Jeff Simon from Alva, Okla., who with the purchase of a 1940 Plymouth coupe got an entire trailer load of spare parts, mostly sheet metal. Following the Chickasha, Okla., swap meet in mid-March, I bought a spare engine, a pair of 1940 coupe trunk plywood partitions, a battery cover and two late-1930s MoPar factory heaters from Jeff. Jeff was very reasonable and easy to work with. Because he has a wonderful collection of remaining 1940 Plymouth parts that should go to restorers, I want to post this notice. Here is a short list: pair of coupe trunk-lid braces; a fuel pump heat shield; a clutch pan; floorboard; several radiator sheet-metal pieces; 2 nose-pieces/radiator shells; 2 lower hood halves; 2 complete hoods); 2 crankcase ventilator tubes; front fender inner splash pans with louvers, 2 or maybe 4 of them; 4 rear fenders; 4 front fenders; 2 horn-blower rings; a cowl vent w/linkages; rear bumper-to-body splash pans; a steering wheel; 2 gas tanks; 2 gas-filler necks; pr. of running boards; 2 exhaust manis; 11 brake drums; 4 gauge clusters (weathered, as they always seem to be); 2 windshield garnish moldings; 2 rear-window garnish moldings; 4 radiators; 3 radiator supports (the heavy metal frame around the radiator); many hubcaps; 2 MoPar Deluxe heaters; 4 driveshafts w/U-joints; 2 cooling fans; transmission; sway bar; 3 starters and 3 generators (tho I don't know if they have correct A-L numbers); and several boxes of small parts, incl. clutch-release forks, RB braces and the like. Reach Jeff at jcsimon84@live.com or 580-748-1684. He has many photos he can send.
  2. This softbound factory parts listing, No. D-12674, is 342pp long. It is broken up into 22 alphabetical groupings: 1. Accessories, 2. Axle-Front, 3. Axle-Rear, 4. Brake-Hand, 4. Brakes-Service, 6. Clutch, 7. Cooling, 8. Electrical, 9. Engine ... and so forth. Each group contains labeled illustrations and a listing of the factory part number assigned to each part. The body section contains 8 full-page photos of the exterior, trunk and interior of a 1949 Plymouth sedan with callouts for every part shown. Even today it is vital to have these old-time factory part numbers handy so you can order the correct part for your 1949 Plymouth. The pages measure 8 1/2 x 11 inches. The book is factory-punched to fit in a binder, if you desire, and it contains two detailed indexes: alphabetical and by part number. I have duplicates in my collection of Plymouth literature, which is the only reason I'm letting this one go. Condition: The orange covers are clean and bright with some slight bruising to the upper and lower right-hand corners of the front cover, as the photo shows. The spine is sun-faded. The glued binding is tight. Price: $37.50 + $5.95 shipping to continental United States. If you live elsewhere, please contact me for a shipping quote.
  3. I picked up a pair of rear bumperettes at the Wichita, Kan., swap meet over the weekend, suspecting that they fit 1928 Plymouth models with rear-mounted spare tires. (One bumperette fits on each side of the spare.) I have a 1929 Model U and not a 1928 Model Q so I'm just guessing from the various photos I have. Can anyone confirm that these bumper corners fit the 1928 Plymouth? More information: "W1177" is stamped on one of the two brackets attached to each bumperette. The overall length is 18 inches. The horizontal bars are 1.5" wide. Thanks!
  4. Because I was wearing my "MoPar Wanted" sign at the Wichita, Kan., swap meet on Friday, Feb. 6, a man handed me the attached flyer about the car he is selling. The engine that was in this Polara is still living and breathing but is now in a Dodge pickup. If you want this 1965 Dodge with its original engine, then, there's a chance you could deal for it. The headlight garnish moldings are apparently with the car. As to the missing front bumper, I don't know. The "new brakes" refers to new wheel cylinders at a pair of wheels, if I understood correctly. Anyway, it looks like a decent car for the price. Happy hunting!
  5. I met someone Friday, Feb. 6, at the Wichita, Kan., swap meet who approached me because of my "Plymouth wanted" sign. I gladly pass along the following information to anyone who is needing these 1933 Plymouth parts (sorry, I didn't think to ask the car's model no.!) : 1) An engine, currently disassembled; 2) a transmission; and 3) a rear axle. Contact info: Kenneth W. Provence, Spring Hill, Kan. Home phone 913-856-5642 and cell phone 913-208-3728. The rear axle is for sale on the Kansas City Craigslist list (see it for the photo) for $475. When it doesn't sell at that price, however, Kenneth may be willing to listen to reason. Happy hunting.
  6. I haven't personally viewed this car but I met owner Bill Carney of Topeka, Kan., at the Chickasha, Okla., pre-World War II swap meet in March. He's quite the Chrysler fan. Like many of us, he has accumulated too many projects over the years and is now trying to lighten the load. Bill describes this car as extremely straight and solid but, after nearly 75 years, it needs a full restoration. He has rebuilt the brakes and cleaned out the gas tank. Consequently, the car runs and stops decently. Good points: This is a genuine, very rare limo with roll-down division glass between the driver's seat and the passenger compartment. According to Bill, the hubcaps and trim rings are factory original and in very good condition. It has dual heaters and the correct interior fold-down door handles. Bad points: The Fluid Drive appears to be slipping; the quarter-window channels have some rust in them; the engine, although the correct Chrysler straight-8, is from 1950 instead of 1940; the right front inner fender panel is missing; and some chrome is peeling off the rechromed rear bumper. Contact Bill before 10 p.m. Central Time at 785-272-9109 (home) or 785-633-4413 (cell.)
  7. The external oil pump on the right side of my '29 Plymouth Model U engine is fed by a copper oil line that passes through the block via a packing nut. The end inside the engine connects to an oil strainer and screen. The trouble is this: the inner end of the copper line is slightly expanded - not flared but stretched just enough that the brass fitting won't come off ... and the line won't snake through the engine block with the fitting installed. I am completely unfamiliar with this set-up. If I file or collapse the stretched end so the brass fitting slips off, I'm assuming I'll have a loose - and therefore leaky - connection later, which I certainly don't want in my main oil line. Is there some way to either remove this line safely now or to later re-expand the inner end so the brass fitting again fits tightly against it? By the way, I must remove the line before placing the engine in a machine that fires tiny stainless-steel shot at the block, which cleans the engine so it looks newly minted. I'm sure the copper couldn't stand this. Even if it could, it would be difficult to clean the line out afterward! The accompanying photo shows the inner end of the oil line I'm trying to remove. To the immediate right of the brass fitting, you can see the end of the copper oil line, which is slightly expanded to keep the brass fitting from sliding off. (The main-bearing stud in the background is distracting because it appears to be connected to the brass fitting but it is not!)
  8. Hi, Rusty. The second hauler I contacted virtually scoffed at the idea that a flat tire would complicate moving the car. He has a winch and a liftgate and therefore wasn't concerned, so long as the brakes aren't frozen and the wheels will turn. Now, I won't worry about the tires, just about hiring a reliable company with a rollback trailer to drive the car down the mountain to a large parking lot where the long-haul trucker will meet him to load the car. Thanks! Cheers, Curt
  9. Hi, David, I'm learning that what you've suggested is absolutely true: the rollback can load the car even with a flat tire or two, no problem. So that cuts out the potentially expensive use of a local restoration shop to fix the tires and store the car temporarily. Thus the rollback can deliver the car to a nearby big parking lot where the semi can load it directly onto an enclosed trailer for delivery. The plan is becoming simpler than the one I originally envisioned, and for that I'm grateful. Cheers, Curt
  10. Hi, Susan. I'm hearing from some of the trucking companies quoting prices for me that the flat or flats aren't as big a deal as the first hauler made it out to be. I guess the more opinions I get, the closer I get to the truth. But the seller has pumped up the tires for me and is waiting to see how many of them hold air. I agree with your that, even it it's not absolutely necessary, it would be nice to pump up the tires just before trying to load the car. Thanks & cheers, Curt
  11. Hi, Jim, I'm about to try Google Earth to see if I can zero in on the mountain driveway in question. Ah, the wonders of technology! But I still might not be able to tell much from a satellite photo. I'm relying on the seller, who says "no" to a semi but "possibly" to a rollback-style truck. There are plenty of people with enclosed trailers willing to quote a price, I've discovered. I'm still sorting through them all. Thank you for taking an interest. Cheers, Curt
  12. On your suggestion, John, I checked out the towing and transport forum and did get some good ideas. I appreciate it! Cheers, Curt
  13. Good idea, Wayne. The second long-haul trucker I talked to said exactly that: the flats aren't a big problem for winching, which is great news because the whole plan of finding a restoration shop that could both fix the flats and store the car for a few days sounded like a time-consuming (and expensive!) proposition. Thanks for your comments! Cheers, Curt
  14. Hi, Avgwarhawk, Thanks for endorsing the rollback idea. I'm leaning pretty strongly that way now. The first trucking co. I contacted insisted that NOBODY would handle a car with flats. Naturally, the second company I contacted said "no problem"! So it pays to shop around. I think, then, I'll knock out the middleman - the San Diego restoration shop I mentioned - in that I can have the longhaul trucker call the towing company when he's close and then the rollback driver can grab the car and deliver it directly to the Walmart parking lot where the transfer will occur. Thanks again & cheers, Curt
  15. Hi, Rick, I bought it about 3d ago on eBay. The car is blue, the apparent result of someone's quickie "restoration" many years ago. I thought $7,000 was a pretty reasonable price for the six wire rims and sidemounts, rumble seat, luggage rack, the whole deal. Of course, I haven't actually seen the car yet. Do you remember what the seller was asking a year ago? I have two other Model Ks, a 4-dr. and a roadster, both unrestored but in pretty nice cond. The 4d is coming into my shop in about a week so I can rebuild the brakes and get it running. I am by no means an expert on the early DeSotos, however, because I don't even know if your CK is a 6- or 8-cylinder car. If you have a photo you could send and it's not too much of a hassle, I'd love to see your car. Are you a National DeSoto Club member? I've owned a 1937 S3 touring sedan since the early 1980s. That's the vintage of DeSoto I'm much better acquainted with! Nice to hear from you & cheers, Curt
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