Hammer_31_Dodge

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About Hammer_31_Dodge

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  • Birthday 08/10/1969

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  1. Thanks Matt - I'm sure I don't have to say it but, as a true rookie I'm sure I don't know what my expectations should be and appreciate you giving me some insights from your own experience. In all honesty, I didn't expect it to sell in 6 days but did hope for some feedback or questions. Given your feedback though, I'll be patient as the next owner finds their way to my post or, failing that, consign it with a professional.
  2. Thanks for the feedback Dave, much appreciated. I figured 90% based on just an engine swap. Maybe 80% is a better number?
  3. How about a little friendly feedback folks? Am I asking too much? Is the car just not interesting? Wrong part of the world? Want more info/pictures?
  4. I'm selling my 90% original, 100% complete, 1939 Chev Coupe - the 10% is the engine and exhaust - a 235CI straight 6, mild cam grind, Offe intake, cast/headers, dual carbs and exhaust. It sounds period perfect and drives like a dream! The rest of the car is an unrestored original with a single repaint some years ago that shows some checking and cracking. We currently have too many toys in the toy box so we're making some room. We're located in Northwest Washington state and are happy to help arrange transportation with a reputable car hauler. 1939 Chev 'Master 85' Coupe 67k original miles Unrestored original with 1-repaint and period custom engine/exhaust $25,000/obo Contact: Shawn 425-eight nine 4-six 1 four 3
  5. I'm late to the party but don't see any other replies... so - Picture 1 - these look the same as on my '31 DH6 - they mount inside the door frame and come up next to the seat. Wide part is at the bottom and narrows toward the top. The top piece would mount on the passenger side of the car. Picture 2 - Bottom left item looks like the bottom of the firewall where the steering column passes through the "U" shaped notch left of center. The others I haven't a clue about.
  6. Most of the parts are located in Seattle. The fenders for the 31 Sedan are located in Sumas, WA, near the Canadian border.
  7. I have some parts from a '32 DL 6 coupe, a '31 DH 6 coupe, and a '31 6 series sedan. The parts are located in Seattle. The parts can be viewed here: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B_6B9QKhe2YVc0F0QThVSUIxMWs&usp=sharing 32 DL: Cowl center trim $35 (Sold) 2- Cowl vents $75 2- Door latch mechanisms $75 2- Window Regulators $75 - Pending 1- Side window base $25 - Pending 2- Notched Panels - Pending Complete Hood $750 Spare tire mount $75 - Sold 2- Trunk lid braces $40 4- Shaped wood bracing for rear cab - Pay for shipping and I'll send it to you 2- Windshield lock mounts $75 31 coupe Front bumper $150 Headlight bar $75 31 sedan Front bumper $200 Complete headlight assembly $200 Left front fender $300 Right front fender $250 Left rear fender $100 Right rear fender $150 Spare tire mount $75 - Sold Prices do not including shipping. I'll drop small parts a my local UPS store to be packed and shipped at your expense. Hood/fenders/larger pieces will be dropped at a local LTL shipper that also does packing/crating. My preference is for buyers to deal directly with the shippers for packing and shipping. Send me a PM me if you're interested and we can sort out the details.
  8. I have a mid '60's IND-30 engine and need a manual bell housing for it. Let me know what you have and where you are and lets deal! Thanks, Shawn
  9. I'm not biting guys. Have fun with your troll and good luck with your convictions, I'm sure they will both serve you well. Interested parties should stick to PMs as I won't continue to this thread.
  10. 32bizcoupe - PM sent - The engine could be anything as we aren't the original owners (or even close...) Maybe someone has a book that can decipher the serial number and determine if it's original. 34dodger- I don't think we'll have any tail lights but I'll check and make sure ( I know I had an extra but we may need it for one of the cars). No luggage rack or gauges. steve9 - Thanks, it's hard enough finding parts for these things but having to deal with someone who then tries to pull every penny possible out of them is just frustrating as hell... 1930 and R.White - I understand where you're coming from but if you look a little deeper you'll find that we have a 31 and a 32 and both need a bunch of work. We've been buying parts from all over the country to try to put them back together and simply have some extras. We have a variety of cars, some originals and some rods and are proud of both for what they each are. The fact is, I've seen originals sit in fields, owned by someone who couldn't stand the idea of the car being rodded but happy to watch it rot away to nothing. If the first choice is to preserve the history, then is the second choice to see nothing left of it or to see a rod that at least preserves the heart and soul of what car enthusiasts love about our hobby? Personally, I'd prefer to see something preserved rather than see it rot away in a field...
  11. We've ended up with some extra pieces from a project that is currently underway. There will be more parts as we go along and without a doubt we're going to need some other parts as we get further into the project. Here is a link to a flickr gallery. '32 DL6 Parts - a set on Flickr Here is a list of what we'd like: Pending/ 5 wheels - $250 Pending/ 4 hubcaps - $200 Pending/ Front fenders - $450 Pending/ Steering column and wheel - $50 Pending/ Front and Rear Bumpers - $150 Complete drive train (engine, trans, front and rear suspension) - $500 It looks like the engine isn't what we thought, good thing we're not going to leave it in the car as it wouldn't be Shipping is from western Washington State, US Zip code 98225' I won't be posting these to ebay as I would rather just work with folks in the forum community. Lastly, the we think the DL6 Coupe is a pretty rare care and thus the parts are equally difficult to find. That said, if our numbers seem totally out of line, say so and we'll talk. I won't be monitoring this thread for replies as it's been hijacked by assmonkeys. Please stick to PMs. -Shawn
  12. Thanks John, I think this will help but to clarify, the timing chain didn't get moved so the valve to crank timing should remain intact. Using this I can find TDC for 1 and 6 and then alter the position of the oil pump until the rotor is pointing at #1 spark plug wire position in the cap. Does that sound correct to you? On the additional parts, I got everything with the '31 and the '32 is complete. I also have some extra parts for the '31 but won't know for a while which of them I'm going to keep and which I'll pass on. I won't have fenders as I'll be using them but I may have bumper parts and others. I have an extra set of fenders for a '31 sedan that I'll likely be offering at some point, though not just yet. I'll keep you posted though as I know these are not easy to find.
  13. I'll apologize in advance if this has already been posted and I didn't find it in my searches! I've managed to bugger up the timing on my '31 Dodge 6 (this '31 Dodge DH 6 - http://forums.aaca.org/f119/1931-dodge-2dr-coupe-299678.html ) while working on some oil leaks through my blissful ignorance of the fact that the oil pump drives the distributor. Long story short, I pulled the oil pump to fix a leak and altered the base ignition timing when I replaced it. Now the engine won't start... I'm hoping that someone can share the proper method (or direct me to the existing thread) for setting the base timing. I've noticed that folks like to see photos, here is a link to the gallery of both my '31 and '32. The '31 is a driver and the '32 is a basket case. I'm pretty excited about both and am looking forward to moving forward with them. '31 Gallery - '31 Dodge - a set on Flickr '32 Gallery - '32 Dodge - a set on Flickr Many thanks in advance!
  14. I don't have any photos handy but I may have a couple after next weekend. It's a three-window and was burgundy with black fenders and running boards. It had 5-spoke brushed aluminum wheels (very late '70's style). It was a trunk model without fender mounts. It also had a honeycomb radiator that I just loved. It wasn't lowered or chopped, pretty much straight stock look with wheels & tires. We were really trying to make it a drivable sleeper. I'll post photos as soon as I can find some. Thanks!!