lincolnmatthews

When I go to re-assemble my engine again!! I'm thinking about not using them. I wouldn't probably drive much in the cold, besides these car run hot anyway. My thermostats are probably 50 yrs old if not the originals (I've had car over 30 yrs). When I had one out & squeezed it some coolant leaked out from the coils. I don't know but wouldn't think there should be coolant in the coils? Anyway replacements aren't cheap may just leave them out for now

I hear you edinmass it's over a year out of there warranty period. I guess there not obligated to cover anything. There not going to cover my time for pulling the engine or my fuel for a 10 hr drive etc etc. The best I can hope for is to reinstall a new plug, & hopefully a new gasket set. I would have had to change the break-in oil & filter shortly anyway. I don't think I should get into hissing match with now or they could tell me to "get bent". Yes I think they should cut me a check for $500 but of course they won't. One last thing they said they sleeved to cylinders, but I didn't see any evidence of it. I would have thought I could see it. When I get it out I will check it out closer. When I get down to the rebuilder I will have them show me. I don't want to confront them now. If they said they did & charged me & didn't do it then I will be "hissed off". Then I think they should reimburse me something. The saga continues!!

I can't believe the life of my engine relies on a "Mickey Mouse" 1 1/8" plug! Looks like they installed it with a 1/2" dia bolt w/nut. It looked like it didn't go in straight untill it was seated. This would distort the plug a bit & I believe contributed to it coming out. It's a difficult area to work in, I worry about the other plugs coming out sometime. I think they need to be staked more than 2 spots, they need to stake the hell out of them the best they can do to access.

Oh forgot, thanks JWalker for the offer I already have a spare crank.

I did find a welch plug in the pan this morning. I could see some red loctite but only staked in 2 spots. They did offer to send a new plug & the bolt & nut that they used to install, but I'm not real interested in doing it myself. Would have to remove a main brg cap for access a chance of messing it up. My other choice is pulling it & taking it back to them & have it all checked. It's about a 10 hour round trip though, (they won't pick it up I asked). Quite a bit of added expense, they should at least replace all the gaskets. They won't of course cover any other expenses. Should I try & fix myself or pull the engine what would you guys do? I'm sure most of you would take it back to the rebuilder? Thanks.

Thank you all good advise! Called the rebuilder this morning, we had a very amicable conversation. Had his ok to drain the oil & check for contaminates & pull the oil pan & intake to check things out. He said they did pull the welch plugs & clean the crank. He believed they tap & plug them, also they used a std M19 Melling oil pump with a bolt on screen, so not a high volume pump like I had asked for. So probably not a broken shaft. Anyway will start pulling the stuff today! Yippee! Can't wait to pull the pan, I will keep you guys informed what I find (if anything) may just have pull it out. He sounds like they will probably stand behind there work if needed. Thanks you guys!

Actually I did start it tonight, had oil pressure about 20 on the gage but did drop off very low at an idle. So I guess my pump is still working, but couldn't get it to idle very well. Doesn't seem quite right to me, I will still check with the builder but I don't think there's much he can say or do. Almost hate to keep running it in case something puked.

I am calling him tomorrow before I do anything. I was using a 30wt break in oil that he supplied, I was running at fairly high speed right off startup as his instructions stated to make sure the oil circulated. He was just fine with going with the high volume pump. I was going to start it one more time today just to see what my psi would be, but I guess I will bag this. If the oil pump shaft puked would the filter catch some crap? I should be able to change the pump out in the car, correct? Maybe I should go back to a std pump?

Been working steady for 3 months installing the engine & painting the engine compartment looks awesome. Started the engine yesterday & had 50lbs oil pressure, then about 10 minutes I heard a bang clang (thought something fell off & hit the floor, it didn't) started to loose oil pressure (the manual gage was bleeding down towards 0). I don't know what it was, figured something happened to the oil pump (they installed a Mallory high volume pump). This requires a modification for mounting maybe they screwed this up? I don't know if they removed the clean out plugs on the crank, I know they didn't tap & plug these (I believe H&H does this?). Anyway pretty bummed out, the wife's PO! I'm going to call the rebuilder in Portland tomorrow (of course no warranty). Guess I should have sent it to H&H instead! I think I can pull the pan in the car (a 42 LC) & the intake to have a look. Would appreciate any thoughts on this how I could loose almost all the pressure (still had about 1 mark on the gage but basically nothing) Yes I did pre-lube the engine before startup, can't imagine pulling it again & starting over. I'm now not in a position to spend another 10k, (recently retired on a fixed income) so maybe I may not ever get it fixed, pretty depressed as I've had the car for 30 years & was looking forward to finally have a good running V12! Thanks for any ideas.

It had a blank of a time replacing them several years back. I just installed a new (rebuilt) engine & have a new radiator being built so I get to do it all over again. I've been thinking about this, I think I will install the radiator slip on the hoses with the rebuilt water pumps & then install the water pumps to the engine (hopefully not messing up the gaskets) & then draw the pumps into position with the bolts. Then tighten the clamps. It might work anything is better than trying to install the hoses with everything in place!

I had mine totally redone about 2 yrs ago in Portland for about $7500. They assembled it also. Now just getting it put in, so much else to do. New radiator, wiring etc etc. My engine was also running but they did have to stitch a crack so I guess it wasn't to bad?? Hope start it by year's end.

Yes Narragansett is out of business, the kids did not want to continue it. Rhode Island only game in town, I waited 8 wks summer before last for harnesses. Just called them this week now it's about 16 wks, there struggling trying to get help like everyone I lucked out Chris @ Boos-Herrell happened to have a left over Rhode Island engine harness I needed. He doesn't have much left in wiring but worth a call. Rhode Island is worth the wait the harnesses are a work of art! Just installed my headlight harness & turn signals etc, beautiful.

Sounds like the pre-war cars had a smaller pan, ( I read somewhere the drain plug location changed which maybe also changed the column). I will probably go with 5qts total, thanks you guys

Hello, I know the specs always call out 5 qts. But is this counting the filter or are you suppose to "add one" for the filter? I know one should be able to tell from the float, but just wondering what is actually correct. Don't want to overfill the engine! Thank

Well after looking in the Boos-Herrel cat I see they sell one pump for the 36-39 yrs & one for the 40-48. The later one has the 6 impellers I would assume. This unit has larger openings between the impellers which I would guess would move more water,??? Maybe someone can chime in if they know!

To answer my own question I've decided to use the bushing that came out, a little sloppy on the pilot but at least no chance of wrecking the input shaft if the brg fails.

Sorry I think I have the casting #'s switched?

Hi all, installing my water pumps & notice one has 6 impellers (casting #8500E) & one has 8 impellers (#8500D). I assume the 6 is a newer unit, is it better? Should I be looking for one of these? Would it be a problem to mix, possible slight diff in temperature on one bank versus the other? Appreciate any help as I am assembling things to install engine in car. Thank you!

Hi all again, just a quick question. Will be putting my rebuilt V12 in my 42 somewhat soon, I had the re-builder install a bearing in the crank for the trany pilot. But now think maybe I should have stayed with a bushing as original, what do you guys recommend? I just don't want to deal with a squeaky brg down the road. I don't know what is commonly used now days, thank you.

Thanks Tom, that's funny about your judging experience and the free beer! My 56 Mark ll was being judged at a LCOC meet and one of the judges marked me down for the wrong bolts (which I was fine with) but when of them didn't like the antifreeze color (it was fresh green Prestone) that ticked me off a bit. The car scored 90 pts not that great but was basically a parts car when I got it and took me 7 yrs to get it to 90 pts! Anyway it would never had been a 98 pts car (to much time and money also). About 25 yrs ago after driving my Mark lll about 8 hrs to get to another WA meet I was about a half our late after they closed the field for arrivals, so they wouldn't let me compete. I guess rules are rules but at the time thought they could let me in, they hadn't even started anything yet. I know it was my own damn fault! So I haven't had a car judged since, to much stress! Oh by the way my car now is my 42 LC Coupe, I may use SS hardware grille areas and Sand them all and paint them a flat black. As I'm not planning on ever showing the car for points. Thanks again, sorry if I offended anyone with my LCOC rants! And thank you for the links for a parts catalog.

Hi you guys just a quick question for you guys. I'm getting ready to install my rebuilt flathead in my car soon, I told the shop to install a bearing which they did. I got the old Ford bronze bushing back, now I'm having 2nd thoughts that maybe I should have kept the bushing in the crank (figured maybe Henry new best). I just don't want to have pull the rearend, trans to replace a noisy bearing. What's the consensus out there? What is more commonly done now days? Thank you!

I think I just answered my question of what to use (just ordered a Jeggs pre-lumber for $200). But still a little unsure where to plumb it, I think my only choice on a V12 like ours would be the line from the block to the filter (where the oil sender is mounted). Maybe you guys have a better idea? Thanks again.

I've had a completely overhauled engine sitting for over 2 years on the shop floor (covered). The builder said to pre-lube it, which I feel I have to because it has Sat so long. I thought about removing the pressure line to the filter and back flowing down to the oil pump, I'm not sure if this will work. I know there's a relief valve down there but figured the oil would flow thru the engine before the relief. I only have a new Jabsco oil change pump, (a rubber impeller style) which I thought I may be able to make it work somehow?? What would the best pump be? I appreciate any help (I don't want to over pressure it, I know this impeller pump will stall out). One note the oil pan is installed so there is not any access points only the feed line to the filter and the return line back to the oil pan???

Thanks John I wish I had a chassis parts catalog. I will check out 3rd gen. I do hate to use bulk bolts for the grille pieces even if I clear coat them do to the rust factor. I thought about grinding the markings off SS bolts and spraying them flat black??

Wow lots of opinions here! I bought my 42 LC Coupe over 30 yrs ago I was in my early 30's and didn't know anything about the HV12 other than I loved the styling! It came with a dual carb setup which I always thought gave very adequate power and thought handled and rode good. The engine was basically worn out when I got it, so now I'm am in the process of installing a totally rebuilt engine (hope it runs as it has been sitting in the shop for over 2 years). I'm anxious to see how much better it performs with a new engine, I don't need to drive at 60 mph all the time! Would I have been happier with a 31 Model K probably but now is out of my price range so I am happy with my 42 with its dark blue body, red leather and the gold plated interior a very classy car for its day and draws a lot of attention. Be thankful and enjoy whatever kind of Lincoln you have! There all wonderful cars. One last note I remember reading in the LZOC magazines how Jake and David (forgot there last names) drove there HV12's everywhere for many years.