Ron K.

What a treat to see another rolling piece of history in such nice shape. Great job and congratulations, you must be very pleased and proud.

Man, I should have searched to start with but I enjoyed interacting with you. Thanks, that is exactly what I needed. Ron

Thanks again peecher, it had not dawned on me that there could have been an extension and that makes a lot of sense if the spring is correct. If somebody out there has a picture or dimensions of this missing piece of history, I sure would appreciate seeing it. Also, does anybody know if this is indeed the correct pin (master cylinder rod to brake pedal arm)?

Exalted peecher, the accelerator has its spring attached. After studying my photo, which is attached, perhaps I have the pin that attaches the brake pedal arm to the master cylinder in backwards and that spring goes over the end of the pin (it looks like it might have a slot for it). If so it will take quite a bit of force to attach it. Am I on the right track? The master cylinder seep is due to that brass block not being snug against the master cylinder, that is why I though maybe another copper washer would make it tight and put it in the correct alignment to mate up with the rigid brake line that goes to the "T" on the frame. Ron

Is the brake peddle supposed to have a return spring to hold it in the full up position? I noticed that the clutch as a major, industrial strength spring assembly to keep it in the full up position. There is a spring hanging from the floor sheet metal but it may be for something else as I cannot find where it would attach to the brake peddle arm. I installed a new master cylinder and now have a leak between the brass fitting/block (to which the rigid line attaches to the system and the light switch is fastened). I am thinking of putting another copper washer in as a spacer so that it is tight but still at the correct angle for the rigid line to be threaded. Are there other solutions of which I have not considered? Ron

You never cease to amaze me peecher, you know some stuff, thanks. Ron

The ID tag on the generator says that it is a FAB-10000-A, 7 volt, 40 AMPS, FOMOCO, Serial # 47138. It came attached to the 1953 Lincoln V-8 engine and I have to clue to its origin. Ron

Thank you very much Gentlemen, if the Optima is good enough for John, it is good enough for me. Thanks also for the tip on putting it in a fake case that makes it look period correct I did not think about the gauge of the cables or assuring that I have good ground. I sure wish you guys were my neighbors. Can I still use a seven volt generator on a six volt battery or will that cause problems? Ron

My '40 Cabriolet came with an early Lincoln Y block V8 and I am getting close to starting it after over 50 years of storage. It has a Ford 7 volt generator on it and I know that all you will get out of an 8v battery is what you put into it. So, do I gain anything by buying an 8 Volt battery and charging it with a 7v generator? If not, can you Six Volt Purists out there recommend a monster 6 volt battery to crank this beauty?

Thank you very much Tom, exactly what I needed. Kung Fu Tsu was exactly right when he said that a picture is worth a thousand words.

Could somebody please send me a picture of the Fender Skirt lock assy and how it is mounted to the skirt? Thanks. Ron

Thank you Notnow and Tom. I should have realized when I dismantled it that the emergency lever bolt that had a cotter key hole in it but no cotter key was there for a reason. The rears are still very difficult to get on over the shoes but I will get it done. Re-learned about Primary and Secondary shoes, amazing what one forgets over the years. Thanks again guys. Ron

I am sure that you are correct but with it bolted to the rear shoe, I think that I would have to bend the lever to get it sit between the shoe and the backing plate. I will go back out and try again. Thanks. Ron

I disassembled the the rear brake assembly again and carefully reassembled it the way that I think is correct. I still cannot get the the top of the shoes to seat properly on the upper pin and the drum will not go on because the shoes are too high, as if the springs are pulling it up to the top of the backing plate. As Tom recommended, I did adjust the emergency brake cable but it did not seem to help As you can see the bottom adjustment screw is completely closed. Any ideas?

Will the service bulletins give me step by step directions to do a particular job, Tom?

Thank you Tom, I do have them on correctly then and will try working with the cable. The slave cylinders are new and do not have fluid in them yet so there should not be any resistence there.

Could you folks recommend some basic how to manuals for working on and repairing the 1940 Lincoln/Ford. For instance, while rebuilding other vehicles such as the early Ford Mustang, there were numerous manuals to lead you through the process step by step, be it brakes, R & R a transmission or rebuilding a carburetor. I have purchased all of the parts lists and brochures for my Lincoln but none of them have guidance as to how to do the job. I imagine that being a Ford product, Ford manuals could come in really handy because many of our Lincoln systems are Ford common. Somebody over the last 70 years must have put together a comprehensive manual and I would love to have it. Thank you for your help. Ron

I have acquired all new parts and am trying to assemble the rear brakes but I cannot get the shoes to seat properly on the top post and think that the emergency brake cable may be the problem. I tried to partially applying the emergency brake and it helped a little bit but still would not allow the shoes to seat properly in place. I studied all of the depictions that I can find in case I was not reassembling it properly and have done an unsuccessful search on this forum and my "Way of the Zephyr" magazines. I would appreciate any tips you experienced guys may have. Ron

My '40 Cabriolet had an early ('53?) Lincoln Y block inserted in place of the V-12 which I am trying to start after over 60 years in storage.. Do any of you know if this is the correct fuel/vacuum pump for that engine or was this liberated from some other Ford product? Ron

I drained and replaced the oil in my '40 Cabriolet Transmission, boy was it an ugly black. Anyway, I was careful to not over fill it (and have not replaced the oil in the rear end yet) a few weeks later I notice a small puddle of oil on the floor underneath where the drive shaft bolts to the tranny. A friend mentioned that it probably needs the cork seal replaced, does that sound correct? Is this a major project or is it fairly simple? Thanks.

Sorry Guys, this is a '40 Continental

Mr. Whelihan nicely sold me the correct brake line "T" connector that attaches to the frame just outside of the Master Cylinder to replace a non original one that had been installed years ago. The hole in the frame that is large enough for the connector to fit into (held in place by a clip) is a closed (box) part of the frame and I cannot figure out (if this is the correct hole) how to secure it there.

If you followed the earlier thread about my '40 Lincoln you will remember that the body tag had been removed. As recommended, I contacted the Benson Ford Research Center and just received the response, my car has serial number 98364 on the frame and body number 146 was attached to it on Feb 26, 1940. It was shipped to Long Beach on Mar. 6, 1940 and purchased nearby in 1950 by the gentleman from whom I purchased it. Is there a Lincoln registry that I should contact with this information? Thank you guys, especially John Murphy with #154, for all of your help. I am going to need a lot more so please stay tuned. Ron

Mine are the original vacuum driven piston operated cylinders, I think that the later models had a hydraulic system. That is about all that I know, this car is new to me and I still have a lot to learn. Ron

Thank you very much Mr. Johnson, that gives me a great starting point. Quick question, was all of your top hardware still installed like mine is? I assume if so, you raised the top up to gain vertical access for the cylinder to come out.