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pgadler

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About pgadler

  • Birthday 09/03/1965

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  1. Well, I have learned something, again :-). "Upgraded"? How? I have the custom interior with Beaumonde cloth. Is that what You mean with upgraded? The few armrest (read one) I have seen on eBay looks like mine.
  2. Sry, not correct item for a 65' and probably not either 63-64. On a 65' the buttons are oriented 2x2 and not in line.
  3. My set of window switches on the driver side is bust. The housing has snapped. I have found many switches (set of 4, front and rear power windows) for GM cars, but the lugs for the screws holding the switch housing in place, is set offset, and my switch has the lugs centered. Does anyone know of a source? Best, Patrik/Sweden
  4. This solves two problems/differences between original Carter AFB and an Edelbrock. 1 The Edelbrock linkage is further right than the Carter, not as wide as the Carter. 2 The Edelbrock linkage plate is further back than the Carter. As You see on the pictures a previous owner has tried to weld part of the Carter linkage on to the Edelbrock, but not successfully. This could be removed now. The original bracket is in it's original place. Two holes have been drilled in the bracket, letting two new bolt/nuts secure a simple new angled bracket as shown. A kingpin(?) secures the switch to the new bracket. By this, the switch goes on the right side of the original bracket instead of left side, but this is needed since it needs to attach to the Edelbrock more narrow linkage plate. Works well. The idle switch is not shown, but seems to work in it's original position and I think that part of the linkage is original, not Edelbrock. I did not know Edelbrock had a kickdown switch fitting, but that does not make the switch pitch work, does it? Best, Patrik/Sweden
  5. I have almost the same setup, Edelbrock 1405/600 cfm but manual choke on a 65'. I made a simple bracket to combine with the original fixture. Idle switch and throttle switch works with this. I have skipped the dash pot and I don't miss it. But it's to dark to take picture now, I will try to remember to do it tomorrow. /Patrik, Sweden
  6. Couldn't a stand-still vibration be caused by a disintegrated trans mount? Or is the engine dampened and fixed completely by the engine mounts? I mean that it would not be a prop axle initiated vibration... I found this must interesting since I have same problem. Though I don't think it should be any engine internal, it moves like a bat out of hell
  7. I have the same problem and will try this solution, after tip from my neighbour, where it solved the same issue with his Ford Fairline -66.
  8. Typical company car at the airport en route to customer an early Monday morning. Now waiting for my return flight with a pair of Rayban's and a package of Marlboros in the glove box. Good day at work....
  9. Hm, I recently bought a switch off eBay not knowing there is a difference btw 65 and 66/67. The switch I bought looks like this one (linked to in post closest above) and if it is to a 66/67, it still "fits" physically to my 1965... What is the difference in function (apart from part no)? /Patrik, Sweden
  10. Hm, no, not the switch Lars asked for? If I remember correct, "stator and detent switch"....
  11. Then local garage is out. If you feel gas burner not to be an option due to closeness to something flamable, I think a powerful electric hot air gun could give enough heat. Heat is good to get stuck things unstuck.
  12. I suggest heat. A small burner (gas) from your local hardwarestore. It smells though. Or take the control arm to a garage and ask them to press it out with their hydraulic press.
  13. Hi all, Problem solved. Today many small pieces ended up in an finished puzzle. The pieced were: - Stiff rear, as descibed here. - Former owner a TV-program, who in their show described that the car, when they bought, had raised suspension. - The TV-show changed front springs to bring the height down to original. Nothing more. - When I bought the car, the height in the rear was OK, but stiff. - The exhaust was home made. - The only rust repairs I found was a 2-inch square in the frame curve over the rear axle (!). Well, what the prevoius owner did, was to fix new top mounts for the shocks in the rear. As said earlier, they were Monroe Max-Air when I bought the car. They pumped these up to raise the rear. The TV-show only let out the air to reduce height. When I changed to originial spec shocks, they, as the Max-Airs, were so compressed that they bottomed out. The home made top mount had took all beating, the springs none. They were now bent. When fixing the shocks to their original mounts, I had to cut away the home made exhaust, because it passed over the rear axle just were the shock should be. So, now I have a nice ride, suspension wise. Only have to build new rear ends to the exhaust. Here is a pic: http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7203/6886171488_224323d784_z.jpg
  14. Hi all, I have now ordered rear control arm bushings. If the rear control arms move reluctantly, this may be the solution. I checked movement, as said, by raising the car with stands on the frame and lowering the rear axle on the jack. This was OK, but could of course be to slow/dampened movement. While preparing, reading the service manual, I noticed the section saying, that before installing new bushings in the rear lower control arms front end (!), check for burrs in the frame bracket, and if so, remove them. Why would there be burrs in the bracket? If there are burrs on my car, once I get the new bushings and remove the control arms, this could perhaps be a reason to limited movement upwards for the control arm. But still, how could burrs occur?
  15. True, not easy to find in Sweden. But eBay is my friend and I bought one yesterday evening. Thank You all. Patrik
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