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About kevinscar

  • Birthday 02/20/1962

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  1. Thanks for the replies. He thinks the pump is about 3 years old. It looks like a rebuild. He's unsure so that will be something to look into. We noticed that rubber gas line from the fender to the fuel pump and it looks soft. That should be rather easy to replace and we may just want to start with that. I have a few more days here and then I head back home. Will be picking the car up this fall to begin serious work on it. I'd like to pull that fuel pump here, but I'm just not quite sure what I'm going to be getting into and if it's bad, this location will have no parts for sure. Thanks for the information guys.
  2. Hi all, more questions We took my Father's stock 57 Tbird out for a spin and it ran great for a little while. After a bit, under load, it stalled. We looked in the glass bowl and it has some black rubber deposits in it. We clean the bowl and it seems to run fine for a little while, but then after a bit, it stalls again. We look in the bowl and once again, there is black rubber in it. We put the car in neutral and idled, the action in the bowl does not pick up this debris, but it seems that once we go into gear, the action in the bowl is far different and that black rubber seems to be getting kicked up. Is it possible that this is getting caught at the inlet to the carb and this is what stalls us out under load? The car starts great after it stalls... like nothing happened. When I take this car home in the fall, I plan on re-building the entire fuel distribution system including dipping or replacing the tank, replacing all lines. I'll also rebuild the carb. Just not familar with this kind of failure. Thanks!
  3. Okay, we got it started. I kind of figured it was a priming problem. We filled the float bowls manually and started it up. In a few minutes, we could see fuel flowing through the sight glass inline to the carb. So, this solved the problem. I guess I shouldn't be surprised given it hardly ever gets driven. Have a lot more to learn!
  4. One other question on this. I took a look on line at the fuel pump. It seems pretty straight forward. Since it hasn't been driven in a year, is there a way to prime this pump? I plan to next pull the fuel supply line off and just make sure there's fuel to the pump.
  5. I'm thinking of just pulling all the lines off this pump, one at a time and see if I can figure out which one is delivering fuel from the tank. That should flow (I imagine) unless it's an uphill run to the pump. What are these other lines on the fuel pump for?
  6. so theres 2 lines on the top of the fuel pump and two on the bottom we pulled off the line that leads to the bowl and cranked it over and no fuel flowed
  7. BTW, thank you! That helps alot!
  8. its stock and the last time it was started was approx a year ago, the fuel pump has been replaced recently but ill try to trace the system
  9. also if you know any way to test it that would be great.
  10. We are looking at my Father's classic 57 Thunderbird. He wanted to start it up for us, but it just won't start. The battery and starter turn over fine. We put some fuel in the carb and it does start, but dies as soon as the fuel is burned up. Makes us think it's a fuel delivery problem, however none of us have ever troubleshot something like this before. I have to assume it's a mechanical pump, or is it a vacuum? Some ideas/references would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  11. I sincerely appreciate all the information you are providing. This is such a good explanation (I've referred my son to these writeups too). Since I was last on, I've not been able to get to do anything with the hot rod. Between weather and work, I've got a full plate. However, my son is taking it to Prom this weekend. Like I said eariler, I no longer worry about it not starting, I just am concerned about the hard slow cranks when hot. It appears to me that you have, several times, pointed out that hard slow cranks is not such a big deal as long as you have fuel in the carb and an effective spark. I was going to play with the timing a little bit once we got it out, but potentially I should just focus on the fuel delivery (and possible evaporation). I don't know that I will get to it this weekend, but I am itching to dig in again. Once again, I really appreciate all the time you take to carefully explain things. It's been extremely helpful. I will certainly provide an update when I next dig in.
  12. Explains why you wanted me to check the float bowl. Maybe can get to that once the rain stops. It's a lot easier to see outside. If the float bowl is out of fuel, is that because the fuel pump turns off but the engine is still consuming fuel at shut down? My son has a built jeep and he actually has a separate switch for his fuel pump on an LQ4 engine. Of course, that's a fuel injected engine. So, my next steps are to play again with the battery cable length and go through the list you suggested. Would a dual battery setup help if cable length is an issue or is it just the current carrying capacity of the cable itself? I have an optima battery with 1000 cranking amps in back. Thanks!
  13. Jon, I considered that, but even when I had the battery pulled and mounted next to the engine on shorter 2 ga battery cable, I still hard cranked. You know, I have to admit, when I was doing that, I was uncovering so many other issues. I haven't tried it now that it starts every time now. I could maybe try it again, it's a pretty simple test. The unfortunate thing is that the engine compartment has little/no space for mounting a battery.
  14. Been thinking about going through the list NTX provided... doing a bit of reasearch. Correct me if I'm wrong... but here's what I am thinking. While we may have an issue with the spark efficiency (and I will verify this), spark efficiency would not cause a slow crank would it? If the spark efficiency was improved from let's say 60% to 100%, I would bet the crank would still be slow, but the engine would start quicker as opposed to requiring 8 cycles in many cases. Thanks in advance!
  15. Thank you! Will go thru the list as you recommend. Still starting every time but sometimes turns over hard and slow for at most 8 cycles. Never more than 8. After 8, the crank is always strong and the car starts right up.
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