Jump to content

501 Club

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 501 Club

  1. Welcome! I am also relatively new and like you, have found the fine folks on this forum to be a fantastic resource. You may also want to join TC America as they produce a quarterly newsletter that also is of great value and fun to read.
  2. Found this on CL. Looks like new. https://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/5149030217.html
  3. You should be able to find a fuel door lever from an A, G or J body of similar year at a salvage yard. Mine came off an Acclaim, but again a Lebaron coupe/Conv or Daytona should also fit.
  4. Your description is easier to read than mine. I would love for you to edit or amend it with your experience for others to follow. Let us know how yours turn out.
  5. Thanks for the tip. I ordered the spare tire trunk strut from www.LIFTSUPPORTSDEPOT.COM and received it within 5 days at a great price. Installed and works perfectly.
  6. Hello all. I bought my 96 Rivi SC in the fall, and in a cold storm on New Years Eve, I started it to drive home and the heater fan would not work. All fuses are fine. At first, it would either not work at all or work perfectly. Then, I found out that by taking the plastic piece off from under the glove box off and tapping the fan motor, it would turn on and work perfectly while the car was on. Then after turning it off, it would not work again. Now, it has gotten to the point that if I turn the fan motor all the way up I have to hit it with a hard plastic water bottle, kick it, etc. After I make it start, it barely works and makes a buzzing sound. Any ideas? I am pretty sure it is the fan motor, but is there a way to take it apart and clear it out, or should I replace it? Any help is appreciated!
  7. Okay so I have a couple of questions. 1. Is there a way to determine a balance shaft engine from a non-balance shaft without any teardown? 2. In looking at the 8v setup, the dipstick tube is routed straighter upright than the 16V due to the 16V intake manifold. The factory routed the tube to the right of the manifold in 16V's whereas in the photos I have seen of 8V, the tube is routed basically straight up. I have found some standard 8V turbo engines in other models at the bone yards, but don't think it would be a valid comparison. Any comments? This is still a mystery as all the previous maintenance reciepts show the normal amount of oil installed. But if that is the case, how did they know it was full because the oil did not show up on the dipstick? Uug, it really should not be this complicated, but I just don't have any evidence to support a conculsion at this point. Thanks for all the comments thus far. I will get to the bottom of this at some point.
  8. Hello, The other day I went to the scrapyard to pick up a couple different things for my Riviera. I picked up a dashboard because my old one was cracked, and I also picked up a light for the passenger side interior door handle, which was out. I replaced the dash and light, then when I turned on the car and the automatic headlights(previously not working) were fixed, but all of the dash lights (cluster, temperature controls, passenger temp controls, etc.) were all out. The mileage display and gear range lights located on the dash are dimming as usual when the headlights turn on. I have checked the fuses under the rear seat, but other than that I do not know what else to check. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!
  9. I could use both seat bottoms as mine are in presentable shape but the stiching is tearing out on one and the leather is getting stiff. Is it possible to remove the leather covers off the frames and ship that way? Have any photos? Price? Maybe I can convince my better half this could be my present.
  10. That would be correct. The 8v and 3.0 only came with an automatic. The car on Ebay appears to be a conversion as the boot for the shifter is rubber. The 16v boots were made out of leather.
  11. Thanks for the great info 89TC-16V! This forum has been an excellent source of info for me. I have posted a pic of the top of the dipstick. Sure looks like original OEM. Have any idea as to how long the dipstick should be? I am thinking I can just go to the bone yard and pick one up out of any 2.2 or 2.5 with the same pan. Is this correct? It won't be calibrated to my engine but I can do that myself.
  12. Mystery solved (kind of). Fairly certain it has a different oil pan than what it should have. I found the Ebay photos of the 16V that was for sale not too long ago and it appears the pan on my car is very different than what is on that Ebay engine. The bottom of the pan on the Ebay motor is almost flush with the bell housing of the transmission. My pan drops considerably more than the bell housing. It also appears to be a different shape. I posted to get other opinions. Now I need to make sure I have a VIN matching block instead of a different oil pan. Anyone know where the VIN is on the block? I found the VIN on the head which matches, but don't know where to look for the block. I am also concerned that the oil pick-up tube is not even close to the bottom of this pan as it should be. Guess I should wait until the dipstick reads 1 qt low and measure the oil when I change it to see just how low it really is.
  13. Thanks for the responses thus far. I am posting a couple of photos to help resolve this issue. One is the dipstick measured from the very top of the scroll/handle to the end of the stick which is 22 1/8 inches (photo). The measurement from the bottom of the shoulder of the rubber stopper to the end of the stick is 20.5 inches. I also posted a picture of the oil pan from the front drivers side )looking back (sorry as it's not a great photo). Potentially a different oil pan, but if so from what other engine could it be? There are no signs of overfilling, oil leakage, foaming, bubbles, extreme oil pressure fluctuations etc. There is no register of any oil on the stick until over 6 quarts has been added. Any other ideas?
  14. Hi folks. I have had my TC for about a year now and changed the oil for the third time a couple of days ago. Each oil change required 7.5 quarts of oil with a filter change. The owners manual and shop manual does not have the oil capacity of 7.5 quarts. What is the experience of other 16V owners when changing oil? 4.5 quarts? Anyone have ideas as to why the excess capacity? No complaints, as I welcome the extra oil capacity. Just want to know what others are experiencing. The engine has great oil pressure that fluctuates with engine speed, consumes no significant amout between changes and has what appears to be the original dipstick. I am using Royal Purple 5W-30 and sure am happy with how clean it appears when it's time to change it. Not so happy with the $9/qt price however.
  15. How about a good laugh for everyone this morning? Listed on Ebay. The seller has no clue. 89-93 Hard Top For Chrysler Town/Country - Chrysler Lebaron TC by Maserati | eBay
  16. I agree that some aftermarket wheels may be better looking given the technology of today's materials and design. Even some factory Daytona or LeBaron wheels may look better. I also am a traditionalist and would not change the wheels out unless it is for a ralley event or some other temporary event that would burn up good street tires. After the event, the Fondmetal wheels would go right back on. The Fondmetals are expensive wheels made by a top tier supplier. Just an opinion. BTW I am fan of the Reatta as well. May have bought one given the right circumstances.
  17. Think you are right about the Pirellis. A lot of reviews mention tread life as not good. They are not priced in the cheap tire catagory either. I love Goodrich radial's, but it's more of a muscle car tire. I am liking the Pilots thus far as the defenders seem more of an everyday standard touring tire rather than a high performance tire. I think I will wait for Costco to run the $70 off for 4 tires deal on May 5th. Thanks everyone for the opinions.
  18. So, the TC has Continental ContiProContact tires that are 9 years old with excellent tread. Unfortunately, the tread is separating from the sidewall with very serious gaps between the sidewall and tread (much more that a crack). Amazingly, the tread has not flown off the tire. I would like to replace with a similar Michelin that came on the vehicle with updated tire technology. Michelin just came out with the Defender which is an 80K tread life tire that is replacing the Harmony and Hydroedge. They are expensive and not yet available in 205/60/15's. I am considering other brands such as Pirelli P6 plus. I would appreciate if members could let me know what your TC is wearing these days and how you like the way they sound, ride, handle etc. Looking forward to many responses.
  19. Kaiser Fans, I have pasted a link to a '51 Kaiser 4dr for sale in Kansas City Mo. This is exactly like a '51 that my father had in the '70's and sat in front of the house for a few years. I have no interest in the vehicle, but wanted to post on this forum to see if there is any interest from the forum. I have no ties to the vehicle or business listing and I have no knowledge of this particular vehicle. Just want to save a '51 Kaiser from the boneyard. Asking price is $1495. Have fun. Weird Stuff Antiques / Owl Motors / 901 Tracy Ave Kansas City MO
  20. Thanks for the reply My TC Toy. I should have been a little more descriptive in my restoration process. I used the silicone spray before I attempted to remove the outer glass. I found there was enough of a gap in between the glass that I thought if I could get some silicone spray down there, it may help release it. One note I want to tell others who want to restore their windows is that I used a household silicone caulk to put the outer crystal back on, and it did not hold. I had clean all the new household silicone caulk off and re-glue it with Permatex adhesive silicone. Lesson learned.
  21. This is my first post on AACA, so forgive me if I don't follow protocol. I am also a new member of TC America (#8788) which sent me a great newsletter in December. I purchased a '90 YBB 16V in Oct. of last year. The TC is an original California vehicle, although it has been all over the country and is now in the mid-west. Only 55000 original miles and all original including the delaminating clearcoat. I love to drive it and do so often. One of my first projects slated for the car was to restore the Porthole windows (do we call them porthole or opera?). Since the Dec. TC America newsletter had an article on Pg 4 of how to restore them and my TC really needed restoration, I decided to tackle it. Instead of using a knife to remove the outer window, I used a plastic keychain discount card (like from Home Depot or a grocery store). The card is great for bending while still retaining some rigidity which allowed me to get some "air" between the interior and exterior windows. This took the better part of an hour working slow and moving the original film around to create gaps and allow air underneath. I was then able to slide a putty knife between the windows and slowly work it around and release the exterior window. Then it was just a matter of cleaning that horrible smelling film off and re-installing with Silicone adhesive. The TC emblem on one side has been slightly tarnished, but is still usable. The windows now look like new. I have posted pictures and look forward to post from others. Have fun!
  • Create New...