501 Club

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About 501 Club

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    '90 TC by Maserati
  • Birthday 02/09/1961
  1. Welcome! I am also relatively new and like you, have found the fine folks on this forum to be a fantastic resource. You may also want to join TC America as they produce a quarterly newsletter that also is of great value and fun to read.
  2. Good eye. I missed that. Very interesting.
  3. Found this on CL. Looks like new. https://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/5149030217.html
  4. You should be able to find a fuel door lever from an A, G or J body of similar year at a salvage yard. Mine came off an Acclaim, but again a Lebaron coupe/Conv or Daytona should also fit.
  5. Your description is easier to read than mine. I would love for you to edit or amend it with your experience for others to follow. Let us know how yours turn out.
  6. Thanks for the tip. I ordered the spare tire trunk strut from www.LIFTSUPPORTSDEPOT.COM and received it within 5 days at a great price. Installed and works perfectly.
  7. Hello all. I bought my 96 Rivi SC in the fall, and in a cold storm on New Years Eve, I started it to drive home and the heater fan would not work. All fuses are fine. At first, it would either not work at all or work perfectly. Then, I found out that by taking the plastic piece off from under the glove box off and tapping the fan motor, it would turn on and work perfectly while the car was on. Then after turning it off, it would not work again. Now, it has gotten to the point that if I turn the fan motor all the way up I have to hit it with a hard plastic water bottle, kick it, etc. After I make it start, it barely works and makes a buzzing sound. Any ideas? I am pretty sure it is the fan motor, but is there a way to take it apart and clear it out, or should I replace it? Any help is appreciated!
  8. Okay so I have a couple of questions. 1. Is there a way to determine a balance shaft engine from a non-balance shaft without any teardown? 2. In looking at the 8v setup, the dipstick tube is routed straighter upright than the 16V due to the 16V intake manifold. The factory routed the tube to the right of the manifold in 16V's whereas in the photos I have seen of 8V, the tube is routed basically straight up. I have found some standard 8V turbo engines in other models at the bone yards, but don't think it would be a valid comparison. Any comments? This is still a mystery as all the previous maintenance reciepts show the normal amount of oil installed. But if that is the case, how did they know it was full because the oil did not show up on the dipstick? Uug, it really should not be this complicated, but I just don't have any evidence to support a conculsion at this point. Thanks for all the comments thus far. I will get to the bottom of this at some point.
  9. Hello, The other day I went to the scrapyard to pick up a couple different things for my Riviera. I picked up a dashboard because my old one was cracked, and I also picked up a light for the passenger side interior door handle, which was out. I replaced the dash and light, then when I turned on the car and the automatic headlights(previously not working) were fixed, but all of the dash lights (cluster, temperature controls, passenger temp controls, etc.) were all out. The mileage display and gear range lights located on the dash are dimming as usual when the headlights turn on. I have checked the fuses under the rear seat, but other than that I do not know what else to check. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!
  10. I could use both seat bottoms as mine are in presentable shape but the stiching is tearing out on one and the leather is getting stiff. Is it possible to remove the leather covers off the frames and ship that way? Have any photos? Price? Maybe I can convince my better half this could be my present.
  11. That would be correct. The 8v and 3.0 only came with an automatic. The car on Ebay appears to be a conversion as the boot for the shifter is rubber. The 16v boots were made out of leather.
  12. Thanks for the great info 89TC-16V! This forum has been an excellent source of info for me. I have posted a pic of the top of the dipstick. Sure looks like original OEM. Have any idea as to how long the dipstick should be? I am thinking I can just go to the bone yard and pick one up out of any 2.2 or 2.5 with the same pan. Is this correct? It won't be calibrated to my engine but I can do that myself.
  13. Mystery solved (kind of). Fairly certain it has a different oil pan than what it should have. I found the Ebay photos of the 16V that was for sale not too long ago and it appears the pan on my car is very different than what is on that Ebay engine. The bottom of the pan on the Ebay motor is almost flush with the bell housing of the transmission. My pan drops considerably more than the bell housing. It also appears to be a different shape. I posted to get other opinions. Now I need to make sure I have a VIN matching block instead of a different oil pan. Anyone know where the VIN is on the block? I found the VIN on the head which matches, but don't know where to look for the block. I am also concerned that the oil pick-up tube is not even close to the bottom of this pan as it should be. Guess I should wait until the dipstick reads 1 qt low and measure the oil when I change it to see just how low it really is.
  14. Thanks for the responses thus far. I am posting a couple of photos to help resolve this issue. One is the dipstick measured from the very top of the scroll/handle to the end of the stick which is 22 1/8 inches (photo). The measurement from the bottom of the shoulder of the rubber stopper to the end of the stick is 20.5 inches. I also posted a picture of the oil pan from the front drivers side )looking back (sorry as it's not a great photo). Potentially a different oil pan, but if so from what other engine could it be? There are no signs of overfilling, oil leakage, foaming, bubbles, extreme oil pressure fluctuations etc. There is no register of any oil on the stick until over 6 quarts has been added. Any other ideas?
  15. Hi folks. I have had my TC for about a year now and changed the oil for the third time a couple of days ago. Each oil change required 7.5 quarts of oil with a filter change. The owners manual and shop manual does not have the oil capacity of 7.5 quarts. What is the experience of other 16V owners when changing oil? 4.5 quarts? Anyone have ideas as to why the excess capacity? No complaints, as I welcome the extra oil capacity. Just want to know what others are experiencing. The engine has great oil pressure that fluctuates with engine speed, consumes no significant amout between changes and has what appears to be the original dipstick. I am using Royal Purple 5W-30 and sure am happy with how clean it appears when it's time to change it. Not so happy with the $9/qt price however.