
Dave39MD
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Posts posted by Dave39MD
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Bob's has the 1931 Buick Fisher Body book and it does detail door adjustment using shims. For a door low at the lock plate you place shims 1/8 to 1/4 thick between the body and the frame at bolt number 2. Number two is the one under or near the hinge post as Spinneyhill mentioned.
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Yes, that is the same idea.
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Interesting but the pump I am looking at doesn't seem to have anyway to have a lantern ring between the packing. The grease fitting is between two pressed in bushings and about 1 inch from the bottom of the packing. This pump may have been rebuilt at sometime. I could not find lantern rings in the catalog, any idea what Buick called them?
Thanks
Dave
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Congratulations, very nice!
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Dave, I have not found it yet for the Buick but there is a lot of info on adjusting the door gap on Chevrolets of the period by using shims under the body bolts. I would check to be sure all body bolts are there and tight to start with. I will look to see it I can find the info this morning.
Dave
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Spinneyhill,
It is not like that in the spare pump I took apart. Going from the impeller there is a bronze bushing the shaft runs through. Then an open chamber where the grease fitting is, then on to the bushing where the packing is at. As someone suggested, it does stop when you pump water pump grease in but it looks like it will require some constant attention (like many other things). The plug idea is good and I may do that.
Thanks
Dave
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The original fitting was missing the cap and I replaced it with one in my Alemite cabinet. I thought it had the ball but I will check. I have no idea on the pump but do have a spare I will take apart to see what is going on. I suspect it is the same as your Dodge. It seems like the fitting is in water and about two inches behind the packing where the shaft leaves the pump.
thanks
Dave
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Mark and Bob, thanks for the replies. The fuel line runs behind the engine to the fuel pump on the drivers side. There is a heat shield between the fuel pump and the engine block. My car is a late 31 and has that air cleaner, I don't see a provision for a heat shield near it unless it is built in to the late air cleaner. I will insulate the fuel lines and try to block off the heat riser tube. The old heat riser I removed was blocked off and the problem I am describing was much worse.
It was a little cooler today and I ran it pretty hard and no backfiring at all, it was a real pleasant ride.
Thanks again for the help
Dave
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Spinneyhill, It is an Alemite type zerk fitting with threads on the outside for a cap.
bmg1959, thanks for the info.
Dave
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I have noticed engine coolant coming out of the grease fitting on the water pump. It has a screw on cap but that does not stop it. When I hit it with a few pumps of water pump grease it stops leaking for a couple of trips in the car.
Is this normal? If not what would you suggest as the cure?
Thanks
Dave
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It's back. When the outside temp is above 80 it starts backing firing through the carb after operating temp approaches 180. One thing I noticed is a smell of gas before it starts and I pulled over and noticed gas coming out of the vent on the float bowl. Seems strange with what I am taking as a lean back fire that is cured with more choke. Could it be fuel is boiling out of the bowl? Any ideas or suggestions are welcome.
Thanks
Dave
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O'Reilly's has some that looks just like the Indian Head, same small brown bottle, but it has a lions head on the container. I bought some and it seems to be the same.
Dave
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Good advice from the folks here on this site and another site worth checking out is the Vintage Chevrolet forum - http://vccachat.org/ .
Another interesting site is the GM Heritage site which has vehicle information by year you can download - https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits.html
Have fun!
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It sounds to me like he is saying his car feels like a 4 wheel drive on dry pavement. When turning a 4wd on dry pavement the differentials will sometimes grab and pop lose causing a very jerky motion until you get it 2wd.
I think he is saying this is happening when he starts out normally without turning.
Dave
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Not sure if this helps but an old Hygrade catalog shows 30-32 Studebaker - models 55, six cylinder; 61, 62 Dictator, 70, as part number SS 593 which is 72 3/4 ". 30-32 models 80, 90, 91, President, part number SS539 at 78 3/4 ". No mention of a model 54.
Dave
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Where is it located?
thanks
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My father had a service station in the late twenties, early thirties. Somehow one of his guys ruined a customers Model A top which they fixed with a nearby sign. Your top doesn't say 4 for a dollar does it?
Dave
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Sure.
The more I look at the shift lever and brake handle they very well may be chrome. The window cranks and door pulls are nickel and don't look the same.
Dave
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Yes it is a very original car with about 44,000 well maintained miles.
Thanks
Dave
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Dave, The distance is 2 3/8 or so and the entire handle and release is plated. I presume nickel but am not sure. I know the 31 Chevrolet used nickel in the interior and chrome on the outside.
The handle is very well made and there is an offset at the floor board which I tried to capture in the following photos. Let me know what else you need.
Dave
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Midman,
Thanks for the reply. I did soak them in gear oil but still no go. I contacted Bob and he said he had to go with the thicker felt as that was all that was available. With the tight compression of the seal holder my guess is there is nowhere for the extra felt (both in ID and thickness) to go. I put the old seal back in and when I try again will reduce the thickness to 1/2 and see how it goes.
Thanks
Dave
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1931 Buick 8-66S door adjustments- please help if you can
in Technical
Posted
You have it going in the right direction. I am not sure on the hand brake and shift lever, maybe some of the Buick experts will add their input. Mine do look like chrome but the rest of the interior plated metal looks like nickel.
Dave