Dave39MD
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Posts posted by Dave39MD
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It may not be the same but on a 31 it works off the brake cross shaft and can be found on the left sill when you remove the floor board.
Dave
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Thanks for sharing, very nice pictures!
Dave
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I think 61polara has posted good advice above. Is the executor of the estate available to make those requests?
Dave
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Found the root cause of the leak, the last guy damaged the gasket putting it together. I re-read the advice since I am getting ready to put it back together.
The advice on using Olson's gaskets was excellent. They are very knowledgeable and seem to really want to help their customers.
Dave
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Don,
More condition details , pictures, price, and location will help your cause. Nice looking car!
Dave
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California Car Covers would be a good place to call with your questions. I have used many of their covers and have been satisfied. I think, based on your questions, vermontboy has the answer.
Dave
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Nothing like those on my 31 Cabriolet.
Dave
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How wide is your rumble seat bottom? Any pictures as to the condition?
Thanks
Dave
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Where are you Louie? I have a 31 head near Atlanta, GA
Dave
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I used a core plug (freeze plug) to block off the tube to the heat riser,. The tubes I replaced inside the riser were replaced with McMaster-Carr stainless tubing. It was slightly too large but the machine shop was not concerned and did a great job in making the swap. No cracks so far, the old heat riser with the factory tubes was cracked extensively so I am not sure on the stainless being a problem. There were several discussions on this topic on this forum that were helpful.
Dave
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Bob, I did plug the heat riser tube when I replaced the riser and tubes inside. It made a real difference in the way it runs in this hot weather. It is such a wonderful car to drive I may be running it too much!
Hugh, I like the brass nut idea I am not sure on the stainless studs. One stud (the one with a flat washer) has been replaced since it looks like 7/16. The others are 3/8.
It is important to me to have it run good and be dependable but it is an unrestored original 45,000 mile car so I hate to put a lot of shiny new parts on the engine.
Thanks again
Dave
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Thanks for the advice and good suggestions. I will gather parts, start soaking with PB Blaster, and give it a go.
thanks again
Dave
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No the flat one is on number 8 and the leak looks like the front side of 6.
Dave
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Mark, Thanks for the reply. Yes it looks like all of the curved washers are there, maybe one looks flat but it could be me.
Dave
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I may have misunderstood but I would not do any adjusting until all bolts are in place and snug since adding the bolt may change things. On my 31 Chevrolet I was able to loosen the bolt and use a large pry bar to get just enough clearance for the shim. Might be to crude for a Buick!
Dave
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There are some specifications for your car here on the GM Heritage site.
Dave
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I think it was one of the many visits to Henry Ford/Greenfield Village when we watched the old car races. My dad bought me the Clymer Model T book from the museum store and that was it.
Dave
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I have been driving my 31 a good bit and have managed to develop an exhaust leak. It appears to be coming from one exhaust port gasket- no cracks that I can see. As fragile as these manifolds are I thought I better get some advise here before doing something stupid. Two thoughts come to mind; 1) can I try tightening the nuts holding on the manifold without getting into trouble? If that doesn't work. can the manifolds be loosened and pulled away enough to replace the gasket without removing the exhaust pipe and heat riser?
Any other recommendations are welcome, thanks
Dave
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My dad had a service station on Long Island, NY and much time and energy was spent racing cars in the late 20's and 30's. The other picture is him coming home after stealing my car which he would do any time I slept late.
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The train looks like a work train for the crew that kept the track and other railroad property in shape. Just my guess.
Dave
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Looks like a nice coupe. The 90% original may be high with a replaced drive train and repaint but it wont matter if the price is right. At 25 you are competing with a lot of interesting cars.
Dave
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My 31 is also leaking at the ball. I put in 140 thinking the previous owner used a lighter weight and there was not much difference. It has slowed down now that the level has dropped. It is about two inches down from the filler opening. Any ideas on how low you can safely run the transmission ?
Thanks
Dave
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I am sure you know, but in case you don't, the original carb was a Carter RJH-08. I think a 125s but most have replaced with the 30-31 150s.
Dave
1929 Chevy truck brake Light?
in Technical
Posted
I checked my car and the switch is actually mounted on the vertical part of the frame under the sill, not on the sill. It attaches with two 1/4 inch bolts. Same spot near the left rear corner of the floorboard opening so the operation of the brake cross shaft moves the switch. So much for going by memory!
Dave