fordrodsteven
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Posts posted by fordrodsteven
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I have sold my 1988 Reatta but I still have some parts.
Original tape player with bezel ( don't know if it works) - $20
Used headlight switch from a salvage yard car - $40
Used wiper switch from a salvage yard car - $40
A good original Intermediate parking brake cable - $30
A good (lower) transmission cooling line - $20
A service manual and parts book. - $100
will sell all for $200 but you pay packing / shipping
I also have a tan steering column if someone want parts from it because I think shipping the whole column could be costly.
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23 hours ago, gr8scott said:
Let me know what you're asking for the radio module.
Sorry, I've already sold the radio module. I still have these other items and will sell them very reasonably, but you pay packing / shipping;
Original tape player with bezel ( don't know if it works) - $20
Used headlight switch from a salvage yard car - $40
Used wiper switch from a salvage yard car - $40
A good original Intermediate parking brake cable - $30
A good (lower) transmission cooling line - $20
A service manual and parts book. - $100
will sell all for $200 but you pay packing / shipping
I also have a tan steering column if someone want parts from it because I think shipping the whole column could be costly.
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3 hours ago, joe_padavano said:
It will likely go to auction and be bought by a salvage yard for scrap.
Well that stinks!
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You can check with Thunderbird clubs. I know a couple people who had one for sale, here in the northeast, within the last few months.
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SO... I sold my 1988 Reatta to CarMax because I could not find any buyers and I did not want to put a perfectly good car into a salvage yard. I would rather have sold it to someone for parts if they chose not to use it as a daily driver. CarMax, of course, gave me a mere pittance for the running, registered, roadworthy car. My question is... Does anyone know what CarMax does with these vehicles that they get for practically nothing?
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Sold my car and I no longer have it. I do have some spare parts left and a set of manuals if someone wants to buy.
I have: original tape player with bezel (I don't know if it works), ECM (good), Radio module (good) (from under the console), used headlight switch and a wiper switch (removed from a car at a salvage yard and never tested), A good original intermediate brake cable, a good transmission (lower) cooling line.
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11 hours ago, Ronnie said:
My reasons for starting this topic wasn't intended to help me make a decision to shut down ROJ or not. I wanted to try to get a handle on whether or not the time I put into ROJ was helping anyone. I have no other way to know that because ROJ is rarely mentioned here anymore. I reference ROJ here when I'm trying to help someone with a problem but that's about it. There are some expenses to maintain a website that has to be paid each year but I'm not going to ask anyone to help me pay it. The Reatta Store use to help pay the expenses but for whatever reason people stopped using it. I will continue to pay the expenses and maintain ROJ for now. I was just wondering if the time and money was being put to good use.
Ron, You know I've used the ROJ and I even submitted a couple repair procedures. You say that for some reason people stopped buying through the Retta store. The reason I stopped was because the Reatta store no longer had a link to Amazon to help defray your costs. When I tried to purchase there last time it didn't work. So I just went about buying through Amazon directly. Heck, if you have the link set up again I would continue to buy through the Reatta store even though I may no longer have my Reatta.
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27 minutes ago, DAVES89 said:
Sorry Steve I can't buy them all. I do have a neighbor kid who wants one and this would certainly fit the bill price wise. What is wrong with the A/C?
The AC compressor leaks right at the center shaft behind the clutch. Needs a new compressor. I also have spare parts and a set of manuals in the trunk if the car goes to someone on this site. You could empty the trunk and make a little addition to your parts bin.
I know I wrote that I could drive / deliver the car 500 miles or more from here. I have recently developed a health issue that might impede me trying to get all the way to Wisconsin at this time.
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So, It appears that no one wants to purchase this car that is easily a great value at $1,000 for a dependable car. Is anyone willing to make an offer of some sort?
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The whirring or buzzing sound is most likely the brake motor running. The accumulator is just a hydraulic reservoir that gets pressurized when the brake motor / pump runs. Which brake light is on. The red brake light or the yellow ABS light? it does make a difference. For example if the yellow light is on it just means the ABS is not working right but you will still have normal braking. If the red light is on it is a "DANGER" warning and the car should not be driven until it is fixed.
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On 7/5/2019 at 11:29 AM, Barney Eaton said:
Chuck is probably talking about the same area I have seen..........the most common place is on the passenger side and while I have never had a dash apart, I think it is a mounting point that has stressed. Probably a mounting
stud on the underside that has some sort of fastner ....... time, heat, and vibration seems to cause it to crack. The good news, Chuck was able to have his repaired.
Yesterday while I was detailing my car I noticed a crack, in that spot on the passenger side, that I have never seen before.
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Mine were also pretty rusted in. I was able to get one out. I drilled out the other and went to the local hardware store to purchase hex head bolts with the same thread and a small hex. I also ran a metric tap through the threaded holes first when I was putting it back together.
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This Reatta is in pretty decent shape. Running, driving, registered , insured and inspected. Reasons for selling; I have a project car that requires all my attention and funding. I have driven this car less than 500 miles in the last few years and it should be driven more. It's a good dependable car but needs a new air compressor for the A/C (car has been converted to R134A Freon). I will consider driving the car some distance (500 miles from Boston, MA - maybe more) to a serious buyer for delivery.
1988 Reatta coupe for sale
Mileage:_189,000__
Considered Correct? (Y/N) Yes
Location:__North Andover, MA_____
VIN:__1G4EC11C8JB903364____________
Title: Clear_X_ Salvage____ Other___
Any Accident History? (Y/N) No
Asking Price: was 1,200 - now $1,000
Willing to take trade (Y/N) No
Exterior Color: Red
Interior Color: Tan
Paint Original? (Y/N) No
Paint Condition? (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Fair
Belt & Bumper Molding Color: Body Color (red)
Body Dents: (Y/N) No
If Y where__________________
Body Rust: (Y/N) Yes
If Y where___At inner rocker panels and above left rear wheel
Windshield Chipped or Cracked? (Y/N) No
If Y to what extent?
Vent Glass Intact? (Y/N) Yes
If N please describe which one is damaged and how damaged.
Rubber surround molding for windshield condition? (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Good
(Coupe only) Rubber surround molding for rear window condition? (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Fair
Out Side Mirrors Intact? (Y/N) Yes
Headlight Motors Function Correctly? (Y/N) Yes – rebuilt 2014
Tail Light Lens: (Clear/Cloudy/Cracked) Cloudy
Interior Original? (Y/N) Yes except headliner (see below)
16 Way Seats? (Y/N) No
Seat Condition? (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Good
Drivers interior door panel condition? (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) fair –small crack in arm rest and missing grab strap end covers
Passengers interior door panel condition? (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Good Missing grab strap end covers
Center console top armrest condition? (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Good – small crack in armrest pad
Door weather stripping condition? (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Good
Headliner Condition? (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) good - replaced 2014 with different material and lighter color
Carpet Condition? (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) good
Original Floor Mats: (Y/N) Yes – They are missing the Reatta emblem
Floor Mat Condition: (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Fair
Condition of Steering Wheel Leather: (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Fair
Sun Roof? (Y/N) No
Functional Keyless Entry? (Y/N) N/A
Problems with Electronic Dash items? (Y/N) Yes
If Y describe problems: Night time dash illumination not functioning
Power Windows Work Correctly? (Y/N) Yes
Power Seats Work Correctly? (Y/N) Yes
Power Door Locks Work Correctly? (Y/N) Yes
Power Antenna Work Correctly? (Y/N) Yes
Original Sound System? (Y/N) Yes – Replaced spring of 2016 due to old system crackled.
Factory CD Player? (90-91 only) (Y/N) N/A
Sound System Fully Functional? (Y/N) Yes but only connected to two small tweeters at the top of the doors.
If N what are the problems (i.e. tape player, CD, speakers, noise): Don’t know if cassette tape player works
Aftermarket Sound System Equipment? (Y/N) Yes – installed 2018 (also four new speakers)
If Y describe: AM/FM/CD , bluetooth, USB (Ipod/MP3 compatible), remote control
A/C Functional? (Y/N) No
If N describe problem: Needs a new compressor. It leaks at the main shaft of the compressor.
Has the A/C been converted from R12 to R134A? (Y/N) Yes Spring of 2016 replaced all components of system including evaporator and steering pressure sensor
Does the suspension require any attention? (Y/N) No – replaced the engine cradle and rear end cradle bushings early 2016
If Y describe what is needed
Tire Brand: Falken
Remaining Tread: 99% - Four new tires in spring of 2016 at 186.600 miles
Are All Tires Matched? (Y/N) Yes
Factory Wheels? (Y/N) Yes
If N describe the non stock wheel
Factory Wheel Center Caps Condition: (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Fair
Missing Caps? (____) number – none missing
Any Brake Components Replaced? (Y/N) Y
If Y describe the part(s) replaced and when? Calipers, pads, hoses and parking brake cables 2015, Accumulator replaced in 2014, Yes it does have the rear brake rattle noise.
Last Time Brake System Was Flushed? Summer 2018
Original Engine? (Y/N) Yes
If N when replaced and how many miles on replacement?
Original Engine Rebuilt? (Y/N) No
If Y when and how many miles ago?
Does Engine require attention? (Y/N) No
If Y what needs to be done.
When was last tune up? Replaced plugs and wires in 2015. Replaced ICM in 2016. replaced EGR valve 2016
Does the engine, cooling system, power steering, or brake system leak any fluids? (Y/N) Yes
If Y describe in detail what is leaking, to what extent. P/S hose has a slow (drip) leak
How often do you change the oil? once a year
Original Transmission? (Y/N) Yes
If N when replaced and how many miles on replacement?
Original Transmission Rebuilt? (Y/N) No, I don’t think so
If Y when and how many miles ago?
Does Transmission require attention? (Y/N) No
If Y what needs to be done?
When was last Transmission Service? 2017 – also replaced motor mounts, transmission mount, lower ball joints, control arm bushings, front strut rod bushings
Any Transmission Leaks? (Y/N) No
If Y to what extent?
Have CV joints been replaced? (Y/N) No – but replaced boots in 2017
If Y when and how many miles ago?
I have most receipts for service for the last 3 years and 1,500 miles)
Does the car have the owners manual portfolio? No
In General, What items need attention? A/C compressor needs to be replaced
My Reatta Drives: (Excellent/Good/Fair/Poor) Good
I do not know how many prior owners there are for this Reatta
I have owned this Reatta for 7 Years and 6 Months.
Replaced complete exhaust system in 2014 at 185,000 miles (Custom exhaust shop)
Replaced leaking Fuel tank filler tube and gas tank straps in 2015
Replaced cruise control servo with new aftermarket unit in 2014
Original jack is missing
Contact my cell phone at 774-218-5078 or email me at sbderocher@comcast.net
Includes: a set of shop manuals, used headlight switch, used wiper switch, original (good) ECM, original tape player (with bezel) and extra radio, an original good intermediate parking brake cable. Also a few other misc. parts.
Other: Aftermarket radio is powered from fuse #17. Two power outlets and USB charge plug are powered from an added fuse box located under the shifter in the console on the driver’s side. The under seat wire splice repair has been completed (2016)
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2 hours ago, DShip said:
I attended my BCA Minuteman Chapter annual car show featuring Buick, Olds, Pontiac, and GMC's at the Anheuser-Busch Brewery in Merrimack, NH 6/9/19. Couldn't have asked for a better day...sunny and 75 degrees all day.
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There were seven of us there with our Reatta's and yes it was a beautiful day.
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I detailed the Reatta today and took it to a Cruise-in. As usual a couple lookers but not really sure what it is. Anyway. I got a flyer for a Buick, Pontiac, Oldsmobile, GM event coming up June 9th at the Budweiser plant in Merrimac, NH. I think I'll be attending that!
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If you know what they look like you could try Mr. G's Enterprises
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44 minutes ago, ptt said:
I am replacing the Accumulator on my 1990 Coupe Teves system today. Its not been driven for a few days so do I still need to pump the brake pedal 25 times with the key off? Would the hard pedal make any difference in bleeding the front brakes if I were to try? Anything I need to know about tightening the Accumulator or the O-ring installation? I bought the WABCO STC2784 unit that fits the LAND ROVER.
Question #1 - Yes, you should still pump the pedal with the car off. You need to de-pressurize the system.
Question #2 - No the pedal stiffness will not bother / alter the bleeding process. You want the car running to do the rear brakes properly. So because It needs to be running to do the rear brakes I usually have it running when I do the front brakes.
Question #3 - I don't remember any issues when I changed mine. Just want it tight and not leaking.
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I personally think the internet traffic slows down a lot during the winter. I know I store my car during the winter and I do not have a heated garage so I'm not working on it or anything else out there. Matter of fact the only time I do anything outside during the cooler months is by necessity. You know, clearing the snow off my driveway. Anyway, that said I only put approximately 300 miles on my car last year. I have only driven it 6 miles since last September. I have decided I really should let it go. My wife doesn't really like the car and if we go out she prefers the MOPAR or the F150. Last summer I had a for sale sign in the window but not one call for the car. I thought of trading it but decided not to because it would just be another car that I will not drive enough. I am taking it to the local cruise-in tomorrow and I'm considering stopping at CarMax to see what they will offer.
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when I changed my blower motor I was able to do it without removing the dog bone and / or tilting the engine.
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When I checked my Norton report ( which by the way is blocking my access also) it refers to Phishing activity and mentions "325316-1950-oldsmobile-88-V8=2=door=2500".
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When I pulled my transmission out I made a fixture to hold the engine. It went across the shock towers and came forward to the radiator support. I used two hooks to hold the engine from the lifting eyes.
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6 hours ago, Ronnie said:
I thought some of you might like to know that I have resigned as the moderator of the Reatta forum. To those of you have given me encouragement for what I did on the forum I say thank you. To the few people who complained that I wasn't treating you fairly I say you no longer have anything to worry about in that regard. My biggest regret is that during my time as a moderator so many people have left the forum. Regardless if it is my fault or not, it is sad to see the best forum on the internet declining.
Ronnie
Just letting you know I still have my '88 Reatta and I haven't really left. I still lurk here frequently. I always slow down on the cars during the winters. I do not have heat in the garage and now that I'm getting older I prefer a warmer workspace. I tend to do a lot of inside projects a(honey dews) during the cold weather. Lately I've been renovating my daughter's bathroom. Next week I'm hosting a CTONE (Classic Thunderbirds of New England) garage run. I need to clean up my yard and garage and set up displays for people who will be coming by. I have always thought you have done a great job supporting Reatta and owners. Sorry to see you dropped from being a moderator but glad to see you are still here.
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On 3/4/2019 at 11:59 PM, padgett said:
Is punch on lower edge of crank a stake ?
I don't think it's a stake. My guess is it's probably just a foundry marking. It is pretty close to the edge though. I would check to see if there might be a slight out of round condition right in that spot. I would then stone or file it to take out the raised portion. The nut or bolt and keyway are the design and it should hold perfectly fine. It could be what is holding you up if it's out of round in that spot. I would think also that if it was a stake it would be even closer to the edge and you should see something corresponding on the pulley / hub'
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My thoughts are; Worst case is an engine change. Easy peasy. You will have a decent looking car for around $1000 bucks and a little labor.
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poor health forces sale of 1955 Thunderbird project
in Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell
Posted · Edited by fordrodsteven (see edit history)
For sale 1955 Thunderbird project. The original frame has a little rot on the passenger side where the frame turns up to go over the rear end. Also included in sale is a 1956 frame to go with the car. The car is mostly complete. Needs some body work and an interior. Drivers rear quarter repair is started, needs repair to rocker panels and both front fenders near the doors. Also needs work at windshield base. Have original seat and also a set of bucket seats from a 1965 Thunderbird. Currently a 1981 302 and automatic transmission is installed. I modified a tilt steering column from 1981 Thunderbird that was installed in the car before I disassembled it. Car also includes all exterior trim and some extra parts. Sale includes an extra 1956 Thunderbird rear clip which can be cut up for parts if needed. The pictures of the assembled car were prior to disassembly. Asking $10,000 or BO.