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buicknewbee

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Posts posted by buicknewbee

  1. WOW! you must have some memory.

    Thanks for the information. You saved me a lot of time.

    I was kinda hoping they were for a second gen camaro she still has but haven't made it to compare the parts to the car.  Unfortunately, we don't have the nova anymore and he didn't for some time. I have all these parts new in the box. What do you think the whole lot is worth if you don't mind me asking?

  2. Hello gents,

    I have a complete set of new TRW parts for rebuilding front suspension on something.  What I dont know. I believe all of these are for 1 car. I either need a TRW parts book, or it would be helpfull if someone would look them up for me.

    The numbers are

    2-HB1026K

    1-EA. ES323L

    2-ES 645S

    ES 675

    10172

    10173

    My wifes father bought these but failed to tell us what they went to.

    Thanks so much for your help.

     

  3. Thanks

    I may end up doing just that to fix it until I find a replacement. If I remember right, my switch isn't going to allow me to take it apart again. the ears that wrap around it were getting weak. its been a while but sure that was an issue if I pried into it again.

    I haven't looked into my manual to see if the switch has a breakdown of wiring, but while I have your attention do you happen to remember which wires you spliced together?

  4. yes its my dash lights. The contact that slides on the spring just doesn't contact like it should. The lights would come on and off if you played with the switch back

    and forth but it just quit working all together. I don't take it out at night very often but when I do its hard to see anything. I can figure what your thinking and the lights are too bright when its bypassed. Is that what you had in mind?

  5. Hello All,

    Its been a long while since I've posted. Many things have happed in the last few years. Anyway, I have had issues with my 57 buick light switch for several years now. Ive cleaned it and it worked for a while probably for a year and back to the same issue. So I replaced with a cheap aftermarket unit. Junk!  Never worked from the start really. So I cleaned the old one and reinstalled. Worked again for a while and its just worn out. Id like to find a good used one or if by chance someone is holding on to a GM nos one. I'm willing to pay a reasonable price. Thanks for your help.

    Darren

    dchafin1122@gmail.com 

  6. 1957 Buick Special, $8,500

    Our family has enjoyed this car for about 10 years now. It's been a real pleasure to drive to different outings and local shows. It is no show winner by any means. Just a fun car to drive and not have to worry about the occasional scratch. I'd say the car is solid. Usually the floors including the trunk are ate up with rust. I'm not sure why this car is the exception but it has somehow survived. It has been repaired in front of the rear wheels with patches at some point. The lower rockers are original I believe and show no rot. The paint on this car is good and  what I like to call a 10 footer. In other words looks great at 10 feet away. I'm not sure who painted it years ago but they didn't know exactly how to do a good job. However it did save it from further deterioration saving it for our family to enjoy. The car has bumpers that are in great condition with just a little rust around the front mounting bolts. The bumpers are usually shot if you know anything about 57 buicks and good ones are highly sought after. 

    The interior has been customized and is very comfortable with a soft leather seats. The interior was done very well. The radio works as it should.

    Mechanically, the car runs and drives well. It doesn't currently have power brakes, but I bought the correct unit to install power brakes with all the necessary linkage and such to do so. I also have the necessary parts to install period correct power steering that the car would have originally. Also the original wheels and hub caps will be included with the sale. The hub caps are in great shape.

    I can be contacted at dchafin1122@gmail.com and I'm located around Lima, Ohio. I have a lift if you would like further exploration of the cars underside. I will answer any questions that you may have to the best of my ability.  

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    • Like 2
  7. On 9/20/2016 at 10:17 PM, Beemon said:

    Did you have exhaust work done? How close is the starter to the exhaust pipe? Heat is the #1 enemy of electronics. I thought I had an issue with my generator because on a hot day I had poor charging, but now that it's cooled down, it charges fine. It could be you have too much ambient heat from the exhaust that it's putting fatigue on your starter. If it is weak, then all you need to do is pull it out and install new brushes and rub the armature with scotch Brite.

     

    Before you do anything costly, check the exhaust pipe in relation to the starter. If your starter was weak, it would have a difficult time starting the engine hot or cold, but that doesn't seem to be the case. 

    The exhaust is close to the starter. I posted pictures of it before. Maybe I should wrap it in some fiberglass  heat wrap first and see what comes of it. The battery is only about 2 years old and it checks out fine. But like I said before it starts just fine when its cold, but after running for a bit , shut it down and start it again 5 minutes later it won't start. One gent used the term machine gun. That sounds like a good description.  I'll  see if I  can post a video of it. 

  8. On 9/20/2016 at 10:17 PM, Beemon said:

    Did you have exhaust work done? How close is the starter to the exhaust pipe? Heat is the #1 enemy of electronics. I thought I had an issue with my generator because on a hot day I had poor charging, but now that it's cooled down, it charges fine. It could be you have too much ambient heat from the exhaust that it's putting fatigue on your starter. If it is weak, then all you need to do is pull it out and install new brushes and rub the armature with scotch Brite.

     

    Before you do anything costly, check the exhaust pipe in relation to the starter. If your starter was weak, it would have a difficult time starting the engine hot or cold, but that doesn't seem to be the case. 

    The exhaust is close to the starter. I posted pictures of it before. Maybe I should wrap it in some fiberglass  heat wrap first and see what comes of it.

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  9. On ‎9‎/‎19‎/‎2016 at 5:50 PM, Ttotired said:

    This ones easy, I had to replace the starter on my 364 and couldnt find one, but what I did find is that the international scout has almost the exact same starter, only difference is the mounting flange on the inter starter is slightly larger, so I used the nose cone from my starter and its sorted.

    One other difference is the bolt hole that holds the battery cable to the side of the starter is also missing

     

    Anyway, the starter # is S-1042 and is a "Dixie" part and it says they have 3 in stock

    http://www.buyautopartsonline.ca/catalog-1/itemdetail/dixie-electric/s-1042

    Good luck

     

     

    Funny how the description states its a reman with remanufactured parts but then at the bottom it states contains no remanufactured components.

  10. On ‎9‎/‎19‎/‎2016 at 0:54 PM, Beemon said:

      What's wrong with your starter right now? 

    It starts fine when it is cold or after it has cooled down for an hour after a good run. But when it is hot it acts like it just doesn't engage. Pops in and out a lot with no turning what so ever. I thought it may be the solenoid so changed it since it was $20 or so. I thought it was the culprit, but still when it runs for a bit and then immediately try starting it again, it repeats the in and out. I'm certain the starter is weak and all the connections are tight and clean.

    I'm not sure how I feel about installing a starter from another brand. It's not like it's a show car, but keeping options open since they are virtually nonexistent at parts stores.  

  11. Last night I  played around with an idea. I  started it from cold and as always no issue. Let it idel for a while and pulled it up and the rack. Shut off and tried to restart. Nope. It does like a real fast clicking thing like it wants to engage but doesn't. So I  experimented with blowing air on the solenoid and it was hot. All the heat from the exhaust just rises right to it. Blowed air on it for may e 5 minutes then crancked the starter over with no issues.

  12. I am having a problem with my 57 buick special starting after driving it for a while, shutting it off to do something for 20 or so minutes, and return to the car only to hear the starter not wanting to turn the motor over. If I raise the hood and return a half hour later it will crank and start with no issues. The starter and solenoid look like they have been replaced not too long ago. I am wondering if there should be a heat shield over the starter? Any ideas?

  13. Thanks, there aren't many out there that aren't all rusted out. To be honest I have had a very hard time trying to find another comparable to see just what it's valued at. I'd keep it myself, but it just isn't old enough for me even though I was born in 75. If it was just 3 or 4 years older I might have a different feeling about this car. I'm hoping to sell this so that I can turn around and invest into one of my other toys.

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