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MikesWoodieWorld

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  1. I am watching this on eBay...looks nice. Did you consider a "buy-it-now" price? Cheers, Mike
  2. I have a plater that I took 3 of these guys (51-52 upper grille bars) to recently, all cracked in various places. He not only did a gorgeous job of replating them, but also uses an experienced "pot metal welder"!! They came out, all three, perfect!! Sorry guys, it is southern California...so no worries about the snow & bitter cold mentioned above, and probably too far away for you guys to use this plater!! Just letting you know... We have all we need here, including warmth!! By the way, an experienced "pot metal welder" is worth his...and his families, weight in gold!! Cheers, Mike
  3. Rob, you are right, elm would look good on a Woodie, but I don't know much (read that: anything!!) about the structural features of elm. It may not be flexible enough to take the shaking of a Woodie traveling down a gravel road, complete with potholes, etc. It may not be strong enough to handle a full wood load bearing body. Or, it may be pricey...but your sample looked good. Makes me wonder why all the wood body builders pretty much used the same few wood species. I used to dream about building a black Woodie, and build the wood part using ebony wood... Pricey, but a fun dream!! Back to the veneering: No, the old bubbling veneer is history!! We attacked it today, and decided it would be quicker & easier to just make new panels, as opposed to cleaning off the problem veneer from the old ones. So we cut out new plywood using the old panels as patterns, and glued new veneer to them with Elmer's glue, this time. They are, as I write, still clamped (overnight) between two sheets of 3/4" plywood, to ensure they stay flat. Meanwhile, all the other ash got another sanding and a new coat of varnish, now drying. We will make more headway in the next few days, but I won't add any more pictures until we get to where we are done.
  4. By the way, Rob, it is white ash we are working with here, not elm. Most of GM's Woodies were ash, some being birch. I don't think anyone used elm. Fords were maple, although I believe some used birch when maple wasn't available. And of course mahogany panels...
  5. Actually Rob, any grain can be pleasing, but it needs to flow into the adjoining wood. You must realize that the grain is made from rings of the tree growing. Some years are harsh, some great, so the rings vary in width from good & bad years, but the word here is "years"! It took many years for the tree to grow, so the grain is a "history" of just what the tree went through. Just imagine you are a tree... You don't get to move around, your roots ensure that...we people have roots, but big difference. So you are stuck where your seed fell and germinated, perhaps for 100 years, through thick & thin, until one day some person with a chain saw notices you!! Go ahead, try to run!! Have you seen pictures of old derelict cars with trees growing out of them? Just imagine how long it took that tree to finally be tall enough to pass through the hood, or wherever it was stuck... And we only see the old car!! With a lousy tree stuck in it!! LOL I respect trees, it is the nature of my joy...adding wood to cars, wagons and making them glorious. Like fine furniture, the rolling kind!! So, the parts I set aside now, will be used on some future wagon that will appreciate it and have adjoining parts that compliment it...drawing it out, so to speak. As for the veneer...it is immensely hard to work with, especially attempting to glue it to steel. Many of the wood panels we veneered for this 49 will need redoing, due to a bad choice of glue. They blistered horribly, but it doesn't show in the pics, thankfully. That will set us back a bit, since we have to redo them. Being out in the middle of nowhere, I am not familiar with your veneer "varieties seen in lumber yards." I find mine on eBay, and let my fingers do the walking...delivered to my door, no less! I am sure it is the same, judging by your description, extremely thin. I find good old wood glue works well adding it to wood, but have had my problems adding it to steel. But I have learned to sand the backside of the veneer, and the front of where it is being glued to get a better adhesion. I think if it is glued well to other wood using Elmer's or Titebond wood glue, the varnish seems to seal it well with only one layer, not affecting the glue. We used a 3M spray contact cement on these, which may well work on wood to steel, but sucks for wood to wood. Varnishing the panels seemed to make them blister more so, as if the varnish undermined the 3M glue. We will redo them with Elmer's or Titebond wood glue!! They will be clamped overnight between a pair of 3/4" plywood panels, with plenty of clamps. Although, I have not left samples out for years to actually see how it holds up...but after restoring these Woodies, I believe they are cared for much more today than when they were just another car, back in their day. Cheers, MIke
  6. Well, I think you guys have me on a pedestal I truly don't deserve!! It is really fun to find raw wood, and contemplate how it will look when shaped, but it is truly the luck of the draw!! Sometimes it works out, sometimes it is kind of blah!! What can I say...it is the nature of the wood. But we always need patterns, so the blah wood serves somewhat of a purpose!! I do extremely enjoy when it works out, and am ready to post pics of it, but the reality of it is in my pattern collection of not so elegant grains is somewhat increasing!! Although, some will work with adjoining pieces, so it is all good. An adjoining piece can elevate a so-so piece if it enhances it, and wood does work well with other wood!! Unlike us!! LOL Cheers, Mike
  7. Actually, Rob, the varnish arrests the darkening process, and locks it in to the color it is. In this case, about half of the wood was built, then it sat inside for about 5 years, which allowed it to naturally darken. Sanding did lighten it somewhat, but the brand new wood was still much lighter. It is, however all new wood, so no filling was required. With old, original wood, that has flaws & cracks from time, it will need some filling. I use clear 5 minute epoxy as I varnish to fill in cracks. The epoxy blends in with the varnish without changing the color, but still fills any voids. Thanks for all the compliments guys, Mike
  8. Well, I finally got a break and am now able to show the varnished work. We have 4 coats of varnish, each one sanded between, but this set of pics show it with this last coat as dried, not yet sanded. We will sand this one and apply 2-5 more, until we get just the right combination of color and smoothness. Some of this wood was built by the previous owner, who died, so the wagon sat for many years in probate, allowing the bare wood to age, ie, darken, a natural happening. So even with extensive sanding, we could not get the older wood to lighten up to the color of the new wood, so we needed to stain all to make a match. That was successful, and it is gorgeous...just wait until we add the removed parts when done, and you will get to see it as it was meant to be seen...all together!! Happy New Year to all, Mike
  9. Sorry to be not posting pics...we're at a 4 coat stage of varnishing the 49 wood, and it is coming out way beyond my expectations...but really tiring me!! I am, after all, an old guy!! LOL After all the work, and the consequential drooling over it, I just hop upstairs & plop!! Totally worn out!! But as I can I will post some pics, although it is somewhat disassembled for the varnishing stage, so bear with me.
  10. Mark, before I start a Woodie project, there are a few things that have to be done: The first is obtaining one, or in this case two, both 1948 Pontiacs.---Done! Second is finding parts that will be needed for the restoration.---In process. Third is researching as much as possible.---In process. And the fourth is having the room to completely take it apart!! I am presently working on #4, and cannot wait to get knee deep (head first, of course) into them!!
  11. Thanks for mentioning the wood grain, I work hard to make the grain stand out, but sometimes I am disappointed... Wood is what it is, elusive, and sometimes it comes to life, but sometimes its less than expected, although any wood is nice in my book. At least the GM Woodies used primarily white ash, which can have spectacular grain showing, unlike the mediocre maple used on Fords! Oh dear, I will hear it to no end from Ford lovers!!! OK, have at me, but only in the New Year!! Cheers, Mike
  12. We worked our a$$e$ off today to make progress on the 49 Super. We completed the mahogany veneering process, and it is not extremely visible in these pictures, since both woods, the ash framing and the mahogany inserts come to life during the varnishing stage...but we are close. The holiday season, falling midweek is messing up our progress... We want to continue, but have obligations that cannot go by the wayside... So, hang in there, we will be back ASAP with more progress. I hope all of you enjoy a great New Year with family, friends, hopefully not alone, but if so call me at 661 766 9141, I will be here to answer, sincerely...but warning you, I will want to talk Woodies!! Hey it's OK, they are relaxing...unless you are attempting to restore one!! LOL Cheers, Mike
  13. John, Happy new year to you and your family and friends, also. Sorry I didn't say this in the last answer, I had meant to. Cheers, Mike PS: And to all of you other Buick nuts out there (hang out here, & I'll make you a Buick Woodie nut...it is commonly known to be highly contagious, so be cautioned)!! (No know remedy, and not expecting one in the near, or far future, other than getting one, and being overwhelmed with them!!)
  14. John, there are major differences as to how we assemble a 1949-1953 Woodie today as opposed to the factory. For starters, the steel roof was not in place during factory assembly, from my observations. They were assembled from the bottom up, then the steel roof was attached, after all the rear structural wood was in place to support it. When we get them, the roof is connected, and has to be raised up at the rear to even remove some of the derelict wood, then properly supported until it can rest on the replacement parts. It is really a very different a process. It actually took me a while to figure this out, while wondering how they did this when new...then it dawned on me. The roof section has a wooden beam along each side, from front to back. The roof is attached at the front windshield area as is normal for cars/wagons of this era, somewhere on the side windshield posts. The B-post, the one between the front & rear doors is also attached, but the top of it is screwed to the header post, wood, that goes from front to back, just inside the roof, both sides. So the wood headers had to be installed in the roof before it was attached. The only other support for the steel roof was accomplished by the rear quarters, which were already in place by the time the roof was installed is my guess. This means when the assembly line did their thing, the roof was not in their way, it was added later. Now on restoration, that roof can be a nuisance!! Perhaps this is not clear, since I have worked many of these gems, and you may have to see it to fully get it, as I have, but if any of you are in my area (out in the sticks of CA desert!!) any of you are welcome, anytime, to visit. I'll show you, first hand!! All I ask is a small donation...Naw, just joking!! LOL You'll get the nickle, no quarter tour for free, as long as you can handle my two boxer dogs, not dangerous, just overly friendly!! Cheers, Mike
  15. We made some progress on the 1949 Super today. New mahogany veneer was added to the sultry old rear panels to liven them up, and allow a good match to the other mahogany wood used on the wagon. This involved disassembly of the tailgate and various other parts, but was well worth it. Now the rear quarters, and tailgate are almost ready for varnish...just a little more hand sanding...whew!! We plan to work tomorrow, Sunday (our schedule is messed up with holidays midweek!!) and should get it to varnish stage by the end of our long day. Happy New Year to all, Mike
  16. Well, lets try to answer both questions... The average time it takes to complete just the wood once the car is stripped varies as to whether some old wood is to be used, or all new, and the general condition of the sheet metal. Ideally the metal should be all prepped for paint but still in primer when the wood is rough fitted. Then the wood is removed and the finished painting is done, then the final fitting of the wood. If some old wood is to be used, it may have flaws that can be repaired, sometimes not to perfection, but the time it takes to do this can be extensive, and often with less than satisfactory results. So I recommend to owners just to go for all new wood...it is better unless they truly don't mind old wood with flaws, at the same cost, or even more sometimes. Believe me, time can vary a lot during this process, which makes it really hard to make an accurate assessment of the time...and therefore the cost!! The factory had blueprints for the wood, and was made in quantity back in the day, so when the wagons were built, there was a good supply of wood pieces, and the installer on the assembly line could pick and choose just the right piece. When we restore a Woodie nowadays, we make each piece, not in quantity unless we have several projects with the same wood, but it is now a custom job as opposed to an assembly line in the factory. No comparison indeed. I hope this answers your question, but if not ask away!! Happy New Year to all, Mike
  17. The air conditioner has been removed, already!!! Actually, Keith, it wasn't bad to tow. Although, I used my 2005 Dodge Ram Diesel 3/4 ton 6 speed manual truck to tow it, equipped with an exhaust brake, which levels all hills around here, which are many, and some are quite steep. And the exhaust brake holds it back extremely well on downgrades. No brake pedal needed!! So the brakes are fresh at the bottom if needed, or midway down. The old Century was no comparison to a Roadmaster (4-5000LBS) and my car trailer (2500-3000 LBS). Hey, Buicks are the greatest for old cars/wagons especially, but Dodge Rams are great for hauling them around!! Only if they are diesels, with 5 or 6 speed manual trannys and an exhaust brake. Just set cruise control, and hills, up or down, evaporate!!
  18. Well, enough about trailers, and back to Buicks...this is actually a Buick Woodie thread, after all!! And a 52 Roadmaster one at that!! Well, the 52 is on hold (but screaming to keep going) until I can get more dough. (Donations welcomed...LOL) But we are progressing on the 49 Super, having spent the last two days doing the final fine sanding on the wood. Today we glued the rear quarter sections together, which is done as assembled on the wagon, permanently. I am adding some pics, they still have clamps/straps in place, holding them tight together. Tomorrow, we will finish that chore, and perhaps it will be more photogenic by then...as now it is covered with sawdust, clamps & straps. So much so, it is hard to distinguish wood from metal from hardware!! The tailgate is off, and in pieces, as we will glue it together first thing in the AM, along with new mahogany veneer applied to the panels. We will add mahogany veneer to all areas that require them so that they will all match, before starting the varnishing step. But, varnishing is close, which will make it extremely photogenic, as the wood grain comes to life during that process. And the contrast of the white ash framing with the mahogany paneling show their glorious different colors & grains, complimenting each other. I will post pictures of that soon, as we progress. I hope all enjoyed a great Christmas season, and wish all the best of the New Year, Mike
  19. The 1953 Buicks came in 3 series; Supers and Roadmasters had Buick's first V8 engine. The Specials retained the previous year's straight eight. They all had the option of wire wheel hubcaps. The wire wheel caps had a center cap for the Supers & Roadmasters, which prominently displayed their new V8 status. The Specials had another version with a Buick emblem added to them. The emblem is very similar to the hood emblem on my 1950 Buick, so it will assuredly get a set!! Hey, for a purist, they are easily removed and replaced with the correct caps, so this is fine with me...I don't profess to be a purest on my own stuff. Both issues are gorgeous, and I run a set of the Special edition on my 1951 Super, and though it is not "correct", I enjoy it immensely, and plan to add them to some of my older Buick Woodie offerings. Now, if you modify any Buick into a modern V8, like a Chevy one (yuck), I don't go for that in any stretch. Not for a Buick, no way!! To me that is downgrading...Buicks were always 8 cylinder cars & wagons, high end stuff. You don't mess with high end stuff!! OK, off my soapbox, Merry Christmas to all, and the Best New Year ever!! Mike
  20. Please post the link, I could sure use it!! Thanks, Mike
  21. I have several of these in very good condition. I selected two and tried many times to add some pics, however only one would upload. I will try again later to add some more pics, but both are pretty much like this one pictured. They are dent free, curb rash free, and have no missing spokes, but could use some polishing. If interested: call me at 661 766 9141 Or email me at: mikesoldecars@yahoo.com Or private message me, Mike
  22. You are right, Rob, the air conditioner will be the first to go...according to Gary, the new owner. It was, however, probably instrumental to the better than average salvage condition of this relic, since it was a desert find. Who knows, It may valuable...I will suggest to him to list it on eBay!!
  23. I was finally able to download a few pics of the 1946 Century trailer. As you can see, the masonite is pretty wavy!! The interior is beautiful fir plywood.
  24. Rob, not meaning to sound bittersweet, but when the values went skyrocketing, it seemed to attract money people to Woodies. When I started into Woodies, you just found one and restored it knowing you wouldn't be able to sell it at a profit, but we did it because we wanted one, and did most of the work ourselves. I have a feeling the folks here are the good old guys!! Back to the trailer, it was wood framed, then a plywood skin was attached (not sure of the thickness), then masonite was applied. Yes, the masonite was the finished outside. This trailer is what we call a "Breadloaf" style, with all rounded corners. The masonite is curved around the front & rear corners. The roof has steel corners, all around the front, back & sides that is rounded, and the flat roof center is again masonite. After, it was painted all over to protect the whole assembly. I'll try to get some pics & post them, but meanwhile I added some pics of a similar style trailer. This one is an all aluminum 1947 Westcraft, just to show the style.
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