nickg112
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Posts posted by nickg112
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Just listed a nice project 1979 MGB at NO Reserve on eBay. Check it out: 1979 MGB
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I appreciate the information. I have also been trying to find out what the ohm range of the factory sending unit is. I would like to compare this to my replacement unit since that is my only option.
The dash gage test by shorting it out does not make much sense to me since I would only be testing full load at 6V. The gage shows good with this test but it does not show accuracy of the gage itself.
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I have checked out the gage as you described and it shows the gage is good. I did this same test on a 1941 Ford gage and it showed good. On my 41 I experienced the same problem and although the test showed good, the gage was bad. I replaced the gage and it fixed the problem. I really do not think that this is an accurate test. Can't buy another 36 gage so I may send it for repair. Thank you for the information
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I have a 1936 Ford dual gauge for fuel and oil. The oil gauge works but the fuel gauge does not. I have a new sending unit in the tank. I know that the fuel gauge is bad. I cannot find a replacement. If anyone has ever repaired a 6 Volt fuel gauge, I would appreciate any tips, information or ideas. I want to use the original gauge.
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All original 1975 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale Convertible. Purchased from original family. 350 V8, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Air Condition, original AM/FM radio. JVC I Pad compatible radio mounted professionally in custom floor console. Has no dash alterations and original radio or dash has not been altered. A/C is complete but has been disconnected. Interior and top is original and in beautiful condition. Dash is perfect with no cracks. All gages, lights, top, heater, defrost, wipers, turn signals and all electrical function properly. Paint is beautiful. Nice chrome and trim. Tires (P225/75R15) are newer. Car has never been driven in winter and has always been stored inside. Original 22,484 miles car. This car starts, runs and drives perfectly. Can be driven anywhere. Documentation includes original Bill of Sale. Have clear title:
http://dreamcruiseclassics.com/inventory/1975-oldsmobile-delta-88-royale-convertible/
All offers considered
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I had a friend of mine look at your video. We both agree that all you can do is rule out what it is not and that is what you are doing. He actually said that he thought it could be the timing chain. I do not see how that can be but I thought that I would mention it. If I think of anything else, I will post it. Please keep us informed of any progress. Good luck.
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That is exactly the way that you described it. I do not think that it is a rod or crank bearing. It obviously is not a vacuum leak as I first suggested. It is not a whistle and is a squeak as you described.
If it is not the bearings, then could it be something that is mounted on the engine. I am searching here, but could it be the water pump? I have heard similar noises from water pumps. How about the fuel pump or oil pump? Were these replaced or rebuilt?
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I agree with my3buicks, an appraisal is a waste of time. Ask yourself on why sellers say in their ads; "It was appraised for $20,000 but I am selling it for $12,500" ? You can put a value on your car yourself. I have a few tips: Be honest with the condition of the car. Know exactly what you have. Do some research on the internet for similar cars. Do a search for similar years, makes and models. A four year span (1949-1952) is a good target. Look at sold prices. Do not look at high bids on eBay or Buy it Now prices on eBay. These prices mean absolutely nothing. Cars will eventually sell for more or less. Comparing conditions of cars is like comparing apples and oranges. Every old car is unique. There are good restorations and bad restorations. There are original cars that have been stored properly and some that have not. The main point is what someone is willing to buy your car for. The value is based on what a seller is willing to sell for and a buyer is willing to pay. Do not compare your car to a Concours restoration that is over the top. More than likely you do not have one and this confuses value. Collectors that are into these types of cars are willing to spend more on restorations than cars are worth. Most never get their money out of their cars.
Appraisers tend to look at what is important but often they focus on obscure issues and confuse buyers as well as sellers. Some are experienced and some take an online course that "certifies" them. I have seen guys actually measure paint thickness and then write down a figure but are unable to explain what it means. Most cars will never have the correct paint thickness if they have been restored. All restorations have some metal filler or bondo. That is a fact and is a standard that is used in the restoration industry. The thickness and how it is used is important. Obviously, thick bondo is a problem. When you see a car that is "laser straight" it has had some metal work done and yes it has bondo.
Classic car auctions are great entertainment and fun places to go. You may even find a nice car. Never go by a top bid as a way of determining value. Read the rules of an auction and you will see that in a Reserve auction, the auctioneer is allowed to bid the car up to the reserve price. So while the top bid may show $25,000, the only "real money" may be $15,000. Thus the car does not sell but shows on record that it had a high bid of $25,000 when in fact it did not. Do not base your appraisal on these values. Go to any auction house site and print out a set of their rules. It is fun reading. I realize that they have to guard against law suits but when you read the rules, you will question why people buy at an auction. In my opinion it is not a place for the amateur collector.
Appraisers are good and bad and have a purpose but values that they put on cars usually are not very good as an indicator of what a car will sell for.
Dealers are a good source. Go to a few dealers in your area and talk to them. See what they think about your car and ask for an offer. Sure, they will make money on your car. Be careful. Know what your car is worth and know what you will accept. There are good dealers and bad dealers. They do not bite and it does not hurt to talk to them. They can save you a lot of time and expense. They are a source to help educate yourself. Scams are prevalent and a good dealer who is licensed and bonded will avoid those scams.
Watch out for Brokers. Their are good brokers and bad brokers. The internet companies that charge $300 to $500 or more are useless in my opinion. They will list your car or offer to list for a high price. They charge for their service. In my opinion, they tend to list for higher prices, charge fees and "hope" that they sell. You can do this yourself. A broker in your area that is licensed and bonded may be a good choice but you still have to sell for a fair price. Like dealers, their are good ones and bad ones. it does not hurt to talk to a classic car broker in your area.
You can find dealers and brokers by going to your DMV or Secretary of State on line. You can verify that they are licensed.
When you find a seller of a similar car on the internet, call them. Tell them that you are trying to put a value on your car. If you find a car that has sold, give that seller a call. Talk to them in a friendly manner and you may be surprised at the information that they share. "Car Guys" are usually great people and like talking cars.
I hope that I have not completely confused you. Selling a classic car at the right price is one of the most difficult tasks that anyone will experience. Just remember, that a classic car is a toy and buyers do not have to buy your car. It is not like they are buying food or shelter. It's a car that they do not necessarily need. So it needs to be priced fairly for the condition, year, make and model that it is. One more thing: It does not matter what you have in the car. It only matters what a buyer is willing to pay. It also does not matter what the value will be after it is restored. Never put "Firm" on your asking price and do not be insulted by offers. You just have to say No if it is low. Have very thick skin. You will figure out who the real buyers are and who are the tire kickers and dreamers.
Good Luck
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I know what you said about the oil filler cap but I am not convinced that the noise is really internal. Could the "squeak" that you are hearing be more of a whistle? I am starting to think that it is possible that you have a vacuum leak. I have heard some strange pitches and sounds from vacuum leaks before. The range or pitch is dependent on the size of the leak. Check to see if you have any vacuum hoses off or any vacuum ports open. Check your carburetor nuts and intake manifold bolts for proper torque. If that does not work and you suspect a vacuum leak, there may be a problem with the intake or carb gaskets.
I am a little reluctant to suggest a vacuum leak since your mechanic did not suggest this but sometimes the obvious is just not noticed.
I guess we will know more once we here a video.
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Never buy anything that has been taken apart and not put back together unless you are buying it for parts. Although you will not believe me, it will be the best advice that you have received.
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I think the $16 K to $20 K that "trimacar" is a pretty good idea on what this car is worth. I do agree that good drivers sell for more ($25 K-$30 K) but since you said that the engine is good but needs a carb rebuild, I am not sure what issues may be there. May times simple problems are assumed by the seller and the problems are much greater when you start analyzing after the purchase. If the car sat for long periods of time, the fuel tank may need to be replaced, etc. Timing, RPMs and fuel are inter related and many times "adjustments" are made that mask the true problem. If the car is running poorly, I would assume the worse and stay on the low end so you do not get burned. If it really is only a carburetor issue, then value may be higher and you may want to consider the higher price indicated for a good driver. Ultimately, price is determined by the willingness of the buyer to purchase and the desire of the seller to sell. Good luck
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When you say that the engine was rebuilt, what specifically was done to the engine? Did the engine run before the rebuild? How many miles was on the original engine before rebuild? What type and weight oil is in the vehicle now? You live in a rally cold area of the country. What was the temperature outside when you tested this engine? Was it tested outside or inside a building? If inside, is the building heated?
Did your mechanic suggest any break in procedure when you first fired up the engine?
If possible, take a video and post it on YouTube and provide a link here. This would be helpful to understand what is going on.
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The value of your Oldsmobile Woodie, has more to do with other sold Woodie wagons and is not specific to your particular make/model. Woodie Wagons have escalated in price over the years. Nice cars sell for $50,000 to $100,000. In general, rarity in a make/model is not a real factor when determining value. In fact, a 1941 Ford may be worth more because the demand is greater. Of greater importance is cosmetic condition, mechanical condition, originality, documentation, owner history, etc. On the plus side, the wood in the photos looks to be very original and beautiful. If the paint is original, that is a plus and I personally would not repaint the car if this is the case. If the paint is not original, then the next owner would need to paint the vehicle and cost could well exceed $10,000. From what I see in the photos, the car looks solid and fairly rust free. The engine that is in the vehicle really is a big negative. Having the original is a plus but odds are, the original needs to be rebuilt.
In my opinion, I would put a value on this vehicle, the way it sits at $25,000 to $35,000. This price range is for establishing a sale price and being able to sell it in a reasonable amount of time. For insurance purposes, I would put a value on it for $50,000
Could you get more? Yes. You may find someone that has been looking for a 1941 Oldsmobile for ten years and is not going to let this one get by. If you are in a hurry to sell, you may get less. Marketing and finding the right buyer is everything.
Comparing and valuing classic cars is like comparing apples and oranges. I know that someone is going to comment that they saw one sell at an auction for much more and someone may say that that they saw one sell for much less.
I would love to inspect this car to put a firm value on it but I hope to have given you something to think about. Call me on my cell at 586-453-9316 and we can discuss further. I have many questions and may be able to better price this car once those questions are answered.
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Selling at No Reserve. 1967 Oldsmobile Cutlass, 2 door Holiday Coupe. original 330 CID V8 engine with two barrel carburetor. Documented one owner car with only 45,678 miles. This is a true survivor. Bench seat, power steering, power brakes. Everything works including all electrical, gages, original AM radio, heater, defrost, wipers, horn, exterior lights and interior lights.
This car has been in storage for many years. The following has recently been completed to make it road worthy: New shocks and springs, brakes, wheel cylinders, brake lines, fuel tank, fuel pump, plugs, points and battery.
Mechanically it is very sound. This car starts, drives and runs great. It can be driven anywhere. It is a pleasure to drive.
This is a true survivor car that is an easy restoration. You will not find another that is this original. Very complete. Just needs a little body work and paint. Also needs exhaust system.
Check it out: http://www.ebay.com/itm/271431734154?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
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I will check out both of these sources. Thank you
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I have added photos to clarify. Looks like I need one short rod and some type of connector. Previous owner use a rubber hose as a connector. Does anyone have an idea if the 40 and 41 Ford is the same?
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I have been looking for someone that sells carburetor linkage for 1941 Ford. There are three linkages that go from three cables from the firewall to the carburetor. They all are 6 to 10 inches long and have some type of a connector at the cable that comes out of the firewall. I believe that the linkage is different from any other year Ford. If someone has a 1941 Ford, I would love to talk to them. Or, if you know a supplier it is appreciated. Thank you
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I have this car listed on eBay. I am considering all offers. Here is a link with 24 photos and a video.
If anyone is looking for the last of the full size convertibles, you will not find one nicer. I would not be afraid to drive this car across country.
I can arrange for shipping anywhere. My phone number is 586-453-9316. Please call if you have any questions. My name is Nick
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Thanks for the information
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Thank you. I really appreciate it. I had no idea what it was. I will be listing it on eBay. I do not have a Mercedes from the 60s.
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If anyone would like additional details about my parts, please call me at 586-453-9316.
Thanks,
Nick
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If anyone would like additional details about my parts, please call me at 586-453-9316.
Thanks,
Nick
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If anyone would like additional details about my parts, please call me at 586-453-9316.
Thanks,
Nick
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Thank you for your help. I have added some additional photos. I do not see any part numbers on the wheel. I hope this helps identify year and make.
1979 MGB selling for NO Reserve on eBay
in British Other - MG, Triumph, Jaguar, etc.
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Check out this 1979 MGB selling at NO Reserve on eBay: 1979 MGB at NO Reserve on eBay
Nice driver and project car