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Everything posted by nickg112

  1. I have this car listed on eBay. I am considering all offers. Here is a link with 24 photos and a video. If anyone is looking for the last of the full size convertibles, you will not find one nicer. I would not be afraid to drive this car across country. I can arrange for shipping anywhere. My phone number is 586-453-9316. Please call if you have any questions. My name is Nick
  2. Thank you. I really appreciate it. I had no idea what it was. I will be listing it on eBay. I do not have a Mercedes from the 60s.
  3. If anyone would like additional details about my parts, please call me at 586-453-9316. Thanks, Nick
  4. If anyone would like additional details about my parts, please call me at 586-453-9316. Thanks, Nick
  5. If anyone would like additional details about my parts, please call me at 586-453-9316. Thanks, Nick
  6. Thank you for your help. I have added some additional photos. I do not see any part numbers on the wheel. I hope this helps identify year and make.
  7. I have radiator shrouds, intake manifolds, headlights, tail lights, gas tank, brackets, etc. See all photos including engines and transmissions. If anyone can help identify parts as to year and make, it is very much appreciated. Please contact me if you have any interest in any part or parts. Link to photos:
  8. The engines are located in Clinton Township, Michigan 48036. I will send you contact info.
  9. I have several Stutz transmissions for sale. I am not certain of the year of each or if they were used on cars other than Stutz. I am posting photos and have each transmission numbered 1-6. If anyone can help identify what these are, please let me know or respond to this Forum question. It is hard for me to determine an exact price since I do not know exactly what I have. I have noticed on eBay that old transmissions seem to sell for around $300 each. Some are more, some are less. I will consider all offers for one transmission or all. If you are commenting or have a question about any transmission, please refer to them by the number in the photo. I have two engines also posted in this forum under Stutz engines
  10. I believe that a fair price for each engine is $2000. Both engines as shown with extra head and cam is $4,000. I will consider offers. As I take photos of the other parts, I will figure out prices. I am really not sure how I will post everything on eBay. I plan on starting eBay listings within the month.
  11. I have two Stutz engines for sale with an additional head. I plan on putting them on eBay soon but thought I would show them here. If anyone has an interest, please let me know. These engines have been in storage for many years. I am not certain as to the condition. The numbers are 85558 and 826?5 (cannot read the number between the 6 and 5). These eight cylinder engines are from the late 20s. I also have intake manifolds, exhaust manifolds, distributors, gas tank, radiator shrouds and much more. I also have many brackets and other parts that I am unable to identify. I also have about six transmissions that I am not sure of the actual year. I believe that most of my parts are from the late 20s to early 30s. I will list other photos in this forum. If you have any interest, please contact me. I welcome any information that you contribute as to the exact years, etc where used.
  12. Thanks for the help. I did a little research per your suggestion and think that it may be a 1964-1966 230SL. I added a post to the Mercedes forum.
  13. Can anyone tell me what year, make and model Mercedes this steering wheel if for? It looks like a 1964-1966 230SL but not sure if it is for additional models or if it is a Mercedes for sure.
  14. nickg112

    1929 Stutz on Ebay

    Just thought that I would put my two cents in. I have bought many classic cars over the years. I do not know if the car in question is a good car or is being sold for a good price. Comparing classic and antique cars and prices is like comparing apples and oranges. Every car is different. There are no two alike. The value of any classic car is one of the most difficult things to establish. But it is a question that comes up in topics on all collector car sites. The simple answer is that it is worth what a buyer is willing to buy it for vs. what a seller is willing to sell for. Books and websites that are written for the purpose of estimating value are not etched in stone and are only for reference. Why is it that you see "selling for less than" a certain guide or a recent appraisal in many for sale ads? Just because a car sold today for a certain price does not necessarily mean that the it could be sold again for the same price. It could sell for more or less depending on many factors. I think where most people miss the boat is when they see a car that they like, they just sit on the sidelines and do not make an offer. I am not sure why that is. Common classic cars are one thing. If you miss it, there will be another tomorrow. With a rare car such as a Stutz, Auburn, Cord, Packard, etc, if you miss it, you may never have an opportunity to buy again. All to often sellers ask more than what the market will bear. If a seller is non negotiable and has a firm price, make an offer anyway and leave contact information with the seller. Call back every month or two and show an interest. You may be surprised. Sellers sometimes come to their senses and face reality. If they really want to sell a car, they will eventually figure out what the market price is for their car. As a buyer, establish your maximum price and try to be realistic. The simple answer is a car sells for what it is worth. Know what you are buying and know what needs to be done to the car. Know what expenses you will have after the purchase. Every once in awhile you "just have to go for it". Get involved in the hobby, buy a car and have fun.
  15. I have a steering wheel that I would like to identify. I believe that it is a Hudson. I have attached a photo. Does anyone have any ideas?
  16. Thanks to everyone for all of the help
  17. I have attached a photo of the tool that I used. Also, I am showing the tie rod ends. I can tighten these up now that they are clean and free of grease and dirt. I am not sure exactly how to adjust. They can now be tightened so that they are stiff so the ball and shank do not move. Obviously they need a little movement. Has anyone ever adjusted these before?
  18. I wanted to let everyone know that I found the exact tool needed in a used tool sore. It is similar to the one pictured above except the blade is .150 thick and it is one inch wide. It fit the slots on the tie rod ends and the drag link perfctly. I was able to get everything apart very easily. I did not even need heat. Now that everything is apart, I soaked everything in mineral spirits. All of the internal parts look good. I see some wear but very little. Now that the screw move freely, I think that the drag link and tie rod ends should adjust and work great. I am not 100% positive but I am thinking that is why ther is an adjustment to begin with. My parts were just frozen and filled with dirt. Has anyone been able to adjust these? Any pointers?
  19. Thanks for the photos and thanks to all for the advice.
  20. Question: How wide is the slotted end of your tool? Is it wider than a normal wide blade screwdiver? Is it possible to attach a photo?
  21. Thank you for the info. I appreciate it
  22. It is an 8 cyliner model CF. I have attached a couple of photos
  23. I have not been able to find the correct tie rod ends for my 1931 Desoto and am now looking for someone to rebuild my existing ones. Does anyone have a source to buy or rebuild? In the process, I noticed that the drag link seems worn. With the tie rod removed, I noticed some play in the wheels, steering and drag link. I am not sure how much play there should be. It does state in my service manual that drag links can be adjusted. On both ends of the drag link there is a large slot for a large flat blade screw driver. The manual says to turn these in all the way and then back them off one and one half turns. I cannot turn these screws. Has anyone ever adjusted these? Are there any tricks to loosening this? Seems like the largest screw driver is not really a good fit. Please see attached photos. Also note on the last photo, the nut that attaches the drag link. I tried loosening that nut and it turns on the stud about a quarter of a turn and then is absolutely frozen and will not turn. I thought that I could remove the drag link and then work on the adjustment outside the vehicle. That is a failure also because I cannot remove the nut. I have also attached a photo of my tie rod ends, just in case anyone knows where I can get these or have them rebuilt. Thank you Nick
  24. I have a very nice 1950 Ford project for sale on eBay. Has great chrome and trim. It is on eBay now. Selling at no reserve. Ford : Other 2 door in Ford | eBay Motors Check it out.