nickg112

I actually found one of these on ebay for a good price. It worked for a day but now I have an issue again. Starter does not crank. I know my starter and solenoid are both good. Not sure if it is the starter relay and that is why I wanted to test it. I like the idea of using a Ford relay but that has 2 small posts and 2 large posts. Not sure how I would wire that. When I look at the 52 Chrysler schematics, I do not see a ground on this starter relay. Does anyone know if the body should be grounded?

I have a 1952 Chrysler Town and Country that I am having problems starting. The starter does not crank. The starter solenoid mounted on the starter is not getting power from the 6V starter relay. This relay is mounted on the driver side inner fender. The car has positive ground. I want to bench test starter relay to be certain this relay is not my issue. These starter relays are not available anymore. Part number is HRW 4001a. It has three small terminals and one large terminal. I have attached a photo. I want to make sure mine is working correctly and would like to bench test it. It has three small terminals as shown and these three terminals are wired as follows: Middle terminal has a wire that connects to the starter solenoid. I do not see any voltage going to the starter solenoid from this terminal when I turn the ignition key. The terminal to the right of the middle terminal has a wire that goes to the ignition. When I turn the ignition key, I see 6 volts going to this terminal on the relay. The terminal to the left of the middle terminal has a wire that goes to the voltage regulator. I do not see any voltage at this terminal The one large terminal has a few larger cables with one coming from the battery, and one goes to the starter. The large terminal on the starter is getting power. I have inspected the inside of the starter relay and everything looks good. Nothing looks burnt and I do not see any burnt wires. Any suggestions or advice would be helpful

I have a 1965 Buick Skylark with a bad heater core. It leaks. Has anyone replaced one of these? Currently I have it bypassed but would love to replace it. Looks almost impossible to remove. Any advice is appreciated.

I actually got mine working perfectly but thank you for the information

Thank you for your article on the sequential turn signals. I have a question about my front turn signals. Two of three sequential turn signals lights working Front turn signals do not work Front running lights work Fender lights go on but do not blink I removed front turn signal lights and found one to be bad. Not sure about second because I broke it upon removal I tested the front turn signal sockets with a volt meter while the turn signal is turned on. Voltage varies from zero to less than one volt. Seems like voltage should vary from zero to 12. I am assuming that bulbs can be removed to check this. I have read the articles on the rear sequential lights and am working on that. I am more concerned on how the front turn signal lights work and what to look for. Absolutely hate the schematics in the owners manual. Wires are hard to follow after plug in terminals since wire colors change at that point Does anyone have any ideas on what to look for to get front turn signals working? Thank you Nick

Thank you

Thank you

Thank you for the help. My glass is all there, just cracked. So I should be able to just measure each piece of glass. I thought one of the Model T Suppliers would have glass. Kind of surprised they do not. I will look for a local glass guy to cut what I need. Tempered glass I assume. I was not sure about using the same brass edging. I think that is relatively expensive so I am glad it can be reused. It looks relatively simple so once I get the glass, I will try to install myself. Didn't know if there was any tricks or issues I should be aware of. Thanks again.

I have a 1913 Model T, C Cab with a split windshield. Both pieces of glass are broken. Can anyone guide me in the right direction on how this glass is replaced? What can be reused, how to remove and replace the glass, etc. Can the brass piece that goes around the glass edge be reused? Does anyone also have a good source for purchasing the glass?

I finally fixed the problem. I replaced the shift rod bushings. That removed all slop in the linkage. It now shifts perfectly

Thank you for the information. I have checked the play and it seems to be at a minimum. The shift lever will work for awhile but then hangs up as described. I still believe that the 4 inch dimension between the steering wheel and gearshift control shaft is the culprit but I am having problems setting that dimension as described. If I bring that dimension in as shown in figure four then the 1/8 inch clearance is off as shown in figure three. I am missing something in these instructions. It just does not make sense.

My transmission linkage will hang up on occasion when shifting from 1st or reverse into second or third. When this happens, I can wiggle the linkage at the steering column to get it moving in and out of gear. My Chevrolet manual shows how to adjust. There is a "shifting box" mounted on the steering column where the transmission linkage is connected to. This is where the hang up occurs. As part of the adjustment procedure, there is a dimension of 3/32 to 1/8 inch shown in figure 3 of the gearshift lever image below. I am relatively close on that dimension. The dimension I am having trouble with is figure 4 of the steering wheel image below. Mine measures 4 inches. The way "To correct clearance is to loosen two gearshift control shaft and housing assembly clamp bolts and move housing assembly with upper and lower control shafts and gearshift lever up or down to obtain necessary clearance", according to the manual. I think they are talking about two bolts on the shift shaft that is located on the inside of the truck near the floor. Question: How can this move an inch when the gearshift lever has a screw holding it in place on the steering column? Has anyone done this and if so, please explain.

I have a 1941 Lincoln Continental V12 that seems to need a linkage adjustment. It is jammed in 1st gear and I cannot release it. Looking through service manuals and all information that I have on the car and cannot find anything on this subject. Can anyone guide me in the right direction? Where can I find information on the subject. Thank you

Thank you. The car is a positive ground

This is a used master cylinder. I am sure that it needs to be rebuilt. let me know if you are interested in it

There is no best place to sell. My recommendation is to take some really good photos of all four sides, engine compartment, trunk, interior. You cannot take to many photos. Most Important: Set a fair price. Do not list and say "make an offer" . Know the value of your car. Search the internet and look for a similar car in similar condition. Remember that asking price is not the sale price. Comparing one car to another is like comparing apples and oranges. Be realistic. Research has to be more than seeing one sell at Barrett Jackson.

I have a 1941 Graham Hollywood. It has sat for 20 years and has not been started. I am going through the car and preparing to start it. I have cleaned the gas tank, rebuilt fuel pump and cleaned fuel lines. I want to try starting the car but not sure if this is a positive ground car. Does anyone know for sure if this is a positive or negative ground car. Thank you

Thank you for your help and suggestions. I have been working on another car and have not tried starting this car. Hopefully I will get back to it soon

No, I have not gotten it started. Took a little break and started working on another car. Plan on getting back to this one soon. I did just get new points and have not tried that out yet

Thanks for the response. I turned it over with a fully charged 6 volt battery. Thinking of using an 8 volt battery. I am going to check compression on all eight cylinders also. Does anyone know what the compression should be on this engine? How much compression is needed to start it?

Thank you for the response. I am 100% certain that the timing is correct. Does anyone know what the compression should be on this engine?