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Posts posted by nickg112

  1. I am having problems with my front door locks. Not sure if my issue is the lock/tumbler or the latch assembly. 

    Something broke with previous owner and I am not sure where the problem lies.

    I removed the latch mechanism and cleaned and oiled it. It is no longer jammed. I can rotate the mechanism with a screw driver on the bench. The actual lock mechanism will rotate 275 degrees or 3/4 of a turn.

    My lock/tumbler rotates 360 degrees or one full turn before key can be removed.

    Obviously the two are not compatible. Once everything is assembled, I cannot remove the key because the tumbler can only rotates 3/4 of a turn due to the limits on the lock mechanism.

    Can anyone tell me if their 1941 car if key rotation is 3/4 or 1 full turn to remove the key.

    I've called several parts suppliers without getting an answer.

    Thank you for any help

  2. I am attaching some photos to try to identify the parts that I found in my oil pan.

    I have a 47 Hudson Pickup with a 1954 engine. It is a 6 cylinder 308. I know little about the history. Engine seemed to be running good but my oil warning light went for the first time yesterday.

    I dropped the oil pan and it had ½ inch of sludge. I am cleaning the oil pan and pickup screen leading to the oil pump.

    At the bottom of the oil pan I found the two parts as shown in the photos. They are about .012 inch thick and seem to be made out of spring steel.

    Looks like I can see these same rings in other pistons when looking up from the oil pan. They are above the connecting rod and below the top of the piston. Looks like they fit in a groove.

    Are these some type of a retainer, wiper, scraper ring?

    Piston walls are not scored and the engine was not making noises.

    Any input is greatly appreciated. Not sure where to go from here.

    Thank you




  3. 3 hours ago, pont35cpe said:

    I would think they are the same. Here is one on ebay #291845490381, you could check with seller for measurements.


    3 hours ago, pont35cpe said:

    I would think they are the same. Here is one on ebay #291845490381, you could check with seller for measurements.

    It looks close but hard for these guys to measure because of compound angles. I would think that if it was an exact fit, that they would say it was in their literature and advertising. I am hoping that someone out there can tell me that they have used a 52 Chevy quarter and it works. Thanks

  4. 23 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

    Normally that car would not be my cup of tea - too "modern" - but that one looks very nice.


    May I also congratulate you on your methodical documentation of what you did and the results. I wish more of us were that clear in our thinking and expression. Well done!

    I love the older cars also. Everything is such a challenge. I appreciate your comment about documentation. Sometimes it is difficult to explain the problem and it takes time. If someone is going to going to help, they need to understand the problem. Everyone was very helpful. I learned a lot on this issue as well as the brakes. Thank you

  5. On 11/20/2019 at 9:44 PM, keithb7 said:

    Glad you got it all sorted out.  Please do post some pics. We’d like to see it.


    Did you change your brake flex lines? Even after all brake work is done always pay attention to your brake fluid level in the master cylinder. Keep checking the level to look for any loss.  

    Yes I did change the lines. Did a complete brake job


  6. Quote


    Thanks to everyone for all of the help. I think I have my problem is solved. These are the three things that I did:

    1) Adjusted clutch lever to put just a small amount of tension. I had to adjust several times until everything seemed correct

    2) I adjusted the large spring on the clutch pedal. As I turned the adjusting screw counter clockwise, the clutch pedal stopped sticking to the floor. Again, several adjustment, a little at a time before I corrected the problem. No tool available to check factory setting.

    At this point everything seemed good with clutch except reverse still had a grind issue.

    3) I fixed reverse by lowering the RPMs to about 600 as suggested by keithb7. The explanation was great as I did not understand that the car running at fast idle would cause a problem with reverse gear. No grind at all now.


    My car came out of a museum and has not been driven for 40 years. I have replaced all of the brakes, cleaned fuel system and did a little electrical as well as changed all fluids. I will be changing plugs, points, wires, etc,  next. Planning on detailing the car this weekend. Paint is all original and the car is rust free. I will post a few photos next week.


    I have only driven the car in the parking lot and while the clutch is working and I can shift into low, drive and reverse, I have not had the opportunity to drive the car on the road to check if Low 1st to 2nd or Drive 3rd to 4th works properly by lifting foot off accelerator pedal. Weather permitting, I will try this weekend.


    Thanks again for the help.


  7. I have a 1952 Town and Country with a fluid drive and M6 transmission. It is not a torque fluid drive. It is just a fluid drive. The car has a 6 cylinder engine.

    It drives well when starting out in drive. There seems to be no issues as long as I stay in drive.

    I am doing the following adjustments and tests with the engine running but not driving the car. I am having trouble with getting the car in reverse or first gear (Low) without getting a loud grinding sound.  I adjust the clutch with the thread adjustment on the clutch lever.  I can adjust the clutch with the thread/lever adjustment so low gear does not grind when engaging but the clutch pedal sometimes will not release from the floor when pressed down. Reverse always grinds. regardless of setting. As I adjust by getting the lever to engage more, the clutch is harder to push but the clutch does will not completely disengage. I then cannot get the car to move in reverse. If I adjust the thread to less engage the clutch lever, The clutch pedal sticks to the floor, more grinding noise occurs but I can get the car to move in reverse. It now will also grind trying to go in first gear and the clutch pedal will stick to the floor.

    Unless I am missing something in my manual, There is no additional adjustment in the fluid drive unit. The manual talks about removing the transmission and fluid drive unit for a bench adjustment.


    I have changed the 10 weight oil (non detergent) in the trans and have not attempted to add oil directly to the fluid drive unit. It only takes about 3 pints total as the manual says. Is there a path for the 10 weight oil to go to the fluid drive unit from the transmission? Or do I need to add fluid to the fluid drive unit? 


    Is there something else I can do before removing the trans and fluid drive?


    Thank you for any advice.

  8. I have a 1952 Town and Country. The fuel line that goes to the tank broke. The old fitting is jammed and I cannot get it out. I want to try drilling it out but want to have a new fitting before I start. Does anyone know where to get one of these fittings? My understanding is the flair is different from a common flair (double bubble). The 1st photo below shows the broken line on my car. The second photo labeled 53 tank is a photo I found on the internet. This is not my car but shows how the inside looks and where the flair seats. I believe the thread size is a 1/2 inch and is just a standard thread ( not a tapered pipe tap). That is why a flair seats on the bottom and the actual threads do not seal the fuel. The flair does the work.

    I tried an easy out on my tank and no luck on moving the fitting.


    I just added a 3rd photo. This is the part that I think I need.


    If I cannot get the correct fitting and flair, my next step is to cut the tank and weld a new fuel tank bung that will have a tapered pipe tap hole for sealing fuel.


    Any ideas or thought appreciated.


    53 tank.jpg


  9. Turns out that at some point I reversed the wires on the starter relay. These were the ignition wire and the voltage regulator. if you look at the attached schematic, I had them wired exactly as indicated. I discovered that these wires were wrong when I removed the relay. I sanded the case and saw words IGN and Arm and noticed that was not as indicated on schematic. I reversed the wires and it works fine now. The car starts.

    If you notice the schematic does not have ARM and IGN marked. I just had mine on the side indicated. It's all good now. Thanks for the help.

    • Like 2

  10. 12 hours ago, Bloo said:

    You are correct. I have the big terminal and the center terminal feeding down to the starter solenoid.
    The terminal to the left of the middle terminal has a wire that goes to the voltage regulator (Arm). This is what my schematic shows also. I think my issue may be this terminal. Since power is going into the starter relay but the wire leading to the solenoid is not sending power, my guess is I do not have a ground.

    I have checked and cleaned ground wires and everything seems to be wired correctly. I am posting a schematic of the area


    1952 Chrysler.JPG

    • Like 1

  11. 8 hours ago, tom1954 said:


    I actually found one of these on ebay for a good price. It worked for a day but now I have an issue again. Starter does not crank. I know my starter and solenoid are both good. Not sure if it is the starter relay and that is why I wanted to test it. I like the idea of using a Ford relay but that has 2 small posts and 2 large posts. Not sure how I would wire that.


    When I look at the 52 Chrysler schematics, I do not see a ground on this starter relay. Does anyone know if the body should be grounded?

  12. I have a 1952 Chrysler Town and Country that I am having problems starting. The starter does not crank. The starter solenoid mounted on the starter is not getting power from the 6V starter relay. This relay is mounted on the driver side inner fender. The car has positive ground. 


    I want to bench test starter relay to be certain this relay is not my issue. These starter relays are not available anymore. Part number is HRW 4001a. It has three small terminals and one large terminal.


    I have attached a photo. I want to make sure mine is working correctly and would like to bench test it.


    It has three small terminals as shown and these three terminals are wired  as follows:

    • Middle terminal has a wire that connects to the starter solenoid. I do not see any voltage going to the starter solenoid from this terminal when I turn the ignition key.
    • The terminal to the right of the middle terminal has a wire that goes to the ignition. When I turn the ignition key, I see 6 volts going to this terminal on the relay.
    • The terminal to the left of the middle terminal has a wire that goes to the voltage regulator. I do not see any voltage at this terminal

    The one large terminal has a few larger cables with one coming from the battery,  and one goes to the starter. The large terminal on the starter is getting power.


    I have inspected the inside of the starter relay and everything looks good. Nothing looks burnt and I do not see any burnt wires.


    Any suggestions or advice would be helpful


  13. Thank you for your article on the sequential turn signals. I have a question about my front turn signals.
    • Two of three sequential turn signals lights working
    • Front turn signals do not work
    • Front running lights work
    • Fender lights go on but do not blink
    I removed front turn signal lights and found one to be bad. Not sure about second because I broke it upon removal
    I tested the front turn signal sockets with a volt meter while the turn signal is turned on. Voltage varies from zero to less than one volt. Seems like voltage should vary from zero to 12. I am assuming that bulbs can be removed to check this.
    I have read the articles on the rear sequential lights and am working on that. I am more concerned on how the front turn signal lights work and what to look for. Absolutely hate the schematics in the owners manual. Wires are hard to follow after plug in terminals since wire colors change at that point
    Does anyone have any ideas on what to look for to get front turn signals working?
    Thank you

  14. 5 hours ago, JFranklin said:

    I had my glass cut at a local auto glass shop. Use the old for a pattern if there is enough. The brass can be reused. If you can't supply a pattern take the frames in and have them cut and install the glass in house


    Thank you for the help. My glass is all there, just cracked. So I should be able to just measure each piece of glass. I thought one of the Model T Suppliers would have glass. Kind of surprised they do not. I will look for a local glass guy to cut what I need. Tempered glass I assume.  I was not sure about using the same brass edging. I think that is relatively expensive so I am glad it can be reused. It looks relatively simple so once I get the glass, I will try to install myself. Didn't know if there was any tricks or issues I should be aware of. Thanks again.